Sleepers and clay

[Tim Hale]

On Catcott, Chris Nevard has used modelling clay to represent track in a goods yard where the ballast is level with the tops of sleepers so that the chairs and rail sides are still proud.

 

However, I am led to believe that the clay can crack and detach in time, does anyone has any suggestions such as alternative material etc.

 

Below is the goods yard on Beaminster Road with a layer of cardboard to minimise the need for a thick layer of clay.

 

 

 

Thanks for your help

 

Tim

[Pugsley]

I've heard that DAS clay, which isn't actually clay (ISTR it's made from recycled newspaper, or similar), doesn't crack in the same way as the Humbrol air drying clay. Laying it on to PVA should solve the adherence problem.

 

HTH

[HLT 0109]

Tim,

 

I have used quite a lot of DAS modelling clay on my layout and have not yet seen any signs of shrinkage or cracking - although it has only been in place for up to two years. I have used it for the ramp up to level crossings and for making stone walls. I have also used it as filler to tidy up the mis-shapen edges of two of my platforms. Generally, it sticks on its own but on the platform edges it did come away so I restuck it with PVA as Martin has suggested.

 

Harold.

[Campaman]

Another DAS user with no signs of cracking, did some cobbled in-filled track and courtyard with it and it has been down for 4-5 years, rolled out to about 2mm thick using a rolling pin, area to have the DAS applied coated with neat PVA, DAS pressed into it, scribed/embossed while still wet, left to dry, and finally another coat of thinned PVA to seal it before painting, probably doesn't need the last coat of PVA but that's what I did.

[Chris Nevard]

It won't fall off, the trick is to use a little 'normal' ballast first, it acts as a good key. If covering a large open area with no ballast prior, paint on a thin layer of PVA first.

Humbrol Air Clay cracks, Das does not.

 

 

[Captain Kernow]

Like Chris, I am soon to use DAS for much of the ground cover on my new layout. I'm currently in the process of adding ballast to some of the sidings that will eventually have the 'gunged-up' look, to provide a key for the DAS, as per Chris's suggestion.

[StuartM]

It won't fall off, the trick is to use a little 'normal' ballast first, it acts as a good key. If covering a large open area with no ballast prior, paint on a thin layer of PVA first.

Humbrol Air Clay cracks, Das does not.

 

111107_polbrock_IMG_1754_WEB.jpg

 

120312_polbrock_DSC_2318_WEB.jpg

Hi Chris,

Can you give any tips on how you manage to get the das clay so flat and even, but especially how you manage to get the clay 'under' the rail so neatly and not have it collect around the underside of the rail/chair/sleeper.

Perhaps working in 2mm makes it harder than if working in 4mm?

Any advice gratefully accepted

Rgds,

Stuart

[Chris Nevard]

Just pummel it into place with a stiff brush, this will get it into all the corners, even it out as well as adding a little texture. You can be quite heavy handed if need be. You can whizz over with a 1/2 inch damp brush to make a slight emulsion of clay to further even it out, but beware of clogging any chair detail.

 

This is code 55 flatbottomed rail in OO for a lightweight industrial look on my current colliery project.

 

I have no preference for DAS clay colour - there are various shades, but of course it will always be painted later (takes all types of paint). But I'd probably use the pale grey if for a cement or china clay works to give it a head start.

[StuartM]

Just pummel it into place with a stiff brush, this will get it into all the corners, even it out as well as adding a little texture. You can be quite heavy handed if need be. You can whizz over with a 1/2 inch damp brush to make a slight emulsion of clay to further even it out, but beware of clogging any chair detail.

 

This is code 55 flatbottomed rail in OO for a lightweight industrial look on my current colliery project.

 

I have no preference for DAS clay colour - there are various shades, but of course it will always be painted later (takes all types of paint). But I'd probably use the pale grey if for a cement or china clay works to give it a head start.

das.jpg

That's the look I'm looking for

Its the clogging around the chair detail that I'm struggling with

Thanks for the advice

Rgds,

Stuart

[The Fatadder]

Glad to have spotted this, just the effect that I am looking for on the layout for one of the sidings.  Have just ordered a pack of Das off ebay, so hopefully will give it a crack next week.

[Captain Kernow]

Chris - I understand that you cannot re-wet DAS clay once you've opened the packet and it's hardened off, so you need to keep the unused clay soft/moist once you've finished with it. What tips can you offer in that regard, please?

 

Thanks.

[Pugsley]

A sealed tub should do the trick, shouldn't it?

[Michael Delamar]

this is all DAS modelling clay laid on top of normal track, smp and ply and rivet points. as has been said above, a layer of PVA then roll and push the clay down.  the sanded down when dry. it does shrink as it drys so make sure its all pushed and compressed in, you can dab it with water if it is seperating when its drying.

this is on 5x3 boards and it wont crack or fall off when it is dry,

 

 

 

[Captain Kernow]

A sealed tub should do the trick, shouldn't it?

Not sure - I heard mention of cling film, but I'm not sure what's best.

 

I could use my old lard tub, I suppose...

[Guest jonte]

Not sure - I heard mention of cling film, but I'm not sure what's best.

 

I could use my old lard tub, I suppose...

Hi Captain.

 

I had a dabble with DAS a coupe of years ago using it as a basis for scribed brickwork as per Gordon Gravett's method.

 

I only used a smidgeon so wrapped the remainder up in cling film and placed it in a desk drawer in my modelling room, which most of the time is kept below room temperature.

 

Unfortunately, after only a relatively short period, it went 'off' - like rock.

 

I, therefore, wouldn't recommend the cling film method and would be interested in hearing of an alternative method.

 

Jonte

[cold-ash]

I kept an opened pack in a small ice cream tub (Carte D'Or if you're interested). In the tub I kept a damp bit of kitchen roll. It worked for me, but there are so many potential environmental considerations results could vary!

 

Hope this helps.

[Campaman]

I re-wrap the DAS in the original foil packaging, then double bag it in food bags and after 12 months its still fine. I think you need to basically keep the air out, so by wrapping tight in sealed packaging is better than in a tub with air.