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Network Rail Structure Gauging Train Optical Car


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This topic is about my conversion of a Bachmann VDA into an Network Rail Optical Car like this:

 

post-14312-0-17768800-1346686811.jpg

 

Hopefully I may stumble upon ideas which may make the conversion easier for other modellers and which haven't been mentioned elsewhere in RMWeb.

 

I started off with a VDA as I had one spare but apparently other wagons have similar wheelbases. The first step (and probable mistake) is to cut along the door margins as shown

 

post-14312-0-13486100-1346687086.jpg

 

then fill in the door handle recesses, file and cut back all the other detail

 

post-14312-0-00007300-1346686926_thumb.jpg

 

The cut out section can then be used as a template for the central vanes which can be made up for the thinnest section of plastikard which you can manage, which in my case was 0.75mm but to scale would probably be much thinner (and flimsier)

post-14312-0-02209900-1346687273_thumb.jpg

The tricky part is the central section. Having looked at the protoype it appears that the construction is flat steel plate welded to a semi-section of steel tube which gave me a similar idea.

You can get overflow connector pipe from Wickes very cheaply and with a cross section of about 25mm, it is the simplest and easiest compromise to build up a perfectly round top section, which is also very strong.

 

post-14312-0-96855900-1346687284_thumb.jpg

 

For the handrails I used .25mm piano wire glued into place

 

post-14312-0-94341300-1346687452_thumb.jpg

 

Where I am now stuck is in the portals for the photocells - if anyone has found a simple and elegant solution I would be very grateful for your ideas!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Working on the portals for the photocells at the moment. Sorry about the bad picture.

I cut up very short pieces of 3mm hollow section plastic tube and stuck into place onto the body, where I had drilled out marked holes.

A drop of quick dry epoxy is used to fill the centre - this will dry and form the 'glass'

 

When dry this is then filed down as low as possible - about 0.5mm in my case - although it should be possible to get down to near flush. Black marker pen is then used to colour the white tubing.

 

I wanted to use brass tube, which had even narrower walls and modelling water to make the glass but the quality of my modelling didn't justify the cost

 

The (very poor quality) photo shows this process at various stages

 

post-14312-0-86734200-1348348233.jpg

Edited by letterspider
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Good to see another Optical car on the go. Looking good. Your photo shows that post-2009 version with the rotary laser contained within the "dustbin" on the end.

 

Have a look at http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/53157-newbryfords-yellow-workbench/page__st__75&do=findComment&comment=781990 and the posts below. I hope they can help.

Cheers,

Mick

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Good to see another Optical car on the go. Looking good. Your photo shows that post-2009 version with the rotary laser contained within the "dustbin" on the end.

 

Have a look at http://www.rmweb.co...._75#entry781990 and the posts below. I hope they can help.

Cheers,

Mick

 

HI Mick

 

yes I have seen your post before - it was and is an important reference. Really good attention to detail - but you have kept those portals secret from us - how did you do yours?

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HI Mick

 

yes I have seen your post before - it was and is an important reference. Really good attention to detail - but you have kept those portals secret from us - how did you do yours?

 

Something I omitted to mention in my build.

 

I drilled 2mm holes and then opened them out with a series of broaches and round files to prevent the thin plastic being distorted by a large drill. The "glass" was formed by using Humbrol ClearFix.

 

Cheers,

Mick

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Been going very slowly on this conversion due to a busy time at work but I finally found the battery charger for my digital camera - here is a better picture showing progress on the underframe details and the portals.

The springs are actually spare screws which were ground down to size. The lateral suspension rods are made from H section filed, drilled through and threaded with hollow section (I think 2mm) aluminium tube, which is in turn threaded through with 1mm Aluminium wire.

 

post-14312-0-78193000-1349005986.jpg

Edited by letterspider
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  • 2 weeks later...

Some photo updates since final painting. The can trail line isn't great as I only had 'normal' masking tape.

 

post-14312-0-57088800-1349731130_thumb.jpg

 

Picture of Optical in formation with support coaches

 

post-14312-0-17223000-1349731178.jpg

 

Decals applied and another test shot - before final varnish.

 

post-14312-0-04239300-1349733506_thumb.jpg

 

A very cruel close up - all looking a bit shiny under the light as I have not applied a final coat of matt varnish. I think next time around I would pay extra for pre-cut 2mm strip, or try 1mm steel strip if they have that size.

 

post-14312-0-27027500-1349733850_thumb.jpg

Edited by letterspider
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For straight cantrails, use either Fox, Replica or Hurst cantrail stripes. My current favourite is Replica. Curved cantrails can be done with care, patience and Microsol.

 

Cheers,

Mick

Edited by newbryford
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  • 5 years later...

Now I am making another Structure Gauging Train Optical Car

 

post-14312-0-79171500-1520775643_thumb.jpg

 

Same idea as before, using Wickes plastic tube connector to form the central curved roof.

Marking out the approximate places of the photocell portals

Edited by letterspider
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Thought I would play about a bit in Sketchup to see if I can 3D print some of the parts.

The battery boxes, the hinged end hatch and the photocell portals

 

post-14312-0-92888300-1520775817_thumb.jpg

 

post-14312-0-57638700-1520775833_thumb.jpg

 

did try to upload the stl file for others to use but apparently not allowed to do so for some reason

Edited by letterspider
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The 3D parts applied to the model.

I made the battery boxes a couple of mm deeper so that they fix better to the underframe. The portholes look a bit overscale however I will wait until the primer coat before I decide

 

post-14312-0-38347100-1520855136_thumb.jpg

 

post-14312-0-97137000-1520855148_thumb.jpg

 

 

Edited by letterspider
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  • 1 year later...

20200127_163153.jpg.2746f187c25e51ff747824d0b1d29228.jpgI didn't realise this project had been put on hold for so long. here is the progress the last few days

 

Firstly the axle suspension springs need to be fabricated. My shortcut compromise is to cut up some spare bolts using a Dremel.

20200123_134422.jpg.1e7725d2e600a2f7c134bfc0299ee933.jpg

 

20200127_163153.jpg.2746f187c25e51ff747824d0b1d29228.jpg

 

20200127_171523.jpg.06dd77d6a1ab121c830e9258a9668790.jpg

 

 

 

I believe these are Yaw dampers. I am using the same method as before - 2mm Aluminium tubing this time threaded with 0.8mm piano wire and superglued into place

 

20200127_163131.jpg.d64865518617490bd16cafdad1ca8c6d.jpg

 

20200128_130336.jpg.a076ae77c3150be82dadda4654e7ce35.jpg

 

There are suspension struts which fit to the axles but I don't believe I can fabricate them and be certain they won't be too fragile against knocks

 

1295134534_Untitled2.jpg.83398d50b746c3b7bb5e2de0c8a823eb.jpg

 

Life is too short to go that amount of trouble!

 

Edited by letterspider
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I just wasn't satisfied with the welded support struts holding the central vane. They looked too broad compared to the prototype.

350250772_460000Opticalcar.jpg.c7fbdee3370f9433744b0cb698ccde70.jpg

However it turns out that the super glue had fixed them very strongly and I had to resort to paring them thinner with a scalpel.

20200205_223426_001.jpg.c0106a12fa458b55ef3907166ecb4ed8.jpg

 

Apart from the sanding, I think it looks better and I will cut the strips to the same width on the other side.

 

I also had time to add some wire onto which I will be soldering pre-wired SMD's. The idea is then to install a Traintech motion triggered switch on the underside.

20200205_223414.jpg.8a2cc9bd150a695097e306e069003d75.jpg

 

I think this will be a lot easier and quicker than the DCC route.

 

I have a busy period of work ahead so the project is on hold for a while - I also have to finally get the airbrush out of its wrapper (bought it 3 years ago!)

 

20200205_223549.jpg.13ead9a95196012a21c2af1209979dcc.jpg

 

20200205_223427.jpg

Edited by letterspider
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  • 7 months later...

Time flies

I should have finished this off during the lockdown but spent my time building an elevated section to my loft circuit Tottenham East.

 

Traintech AL3 is the constant light set. It does look a bit bulky on the underframe but is barely visible at normal viewing distance.

Of course I could also put is within the model... but I intend to permanently glue the top on

20200928_145456.jpg.e5e37677e717567dbcf2fa9fd734c0ee.jpg

 

I intended to use pre-wired SMD LEd but they are the devil's work. After destroying 4 in a row (the wires fell off very easily on mine) I decided to play around with these tower LED's I had lying around

20200928_160546.jpg.4855a67df72752136324b02c4fe6c60b.jpg20200928_160613.jpg.e1719d15ee1d29c42c72b39b9f03ce20.jpg

 

I may just reduce it all to one LED...

 

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  • 2 years later...
  • RMweb Gold
On 30/09/2020 at 23:41, letterspider said:

Time flies

I should have finished this off during the lockdown but spent my time building an elevated section to my loft circuit Tottenham East.

 

Traintech AL3 is the constant light set. It does look a bit bulky on the underframe but is barely visible at normal viewing distance.

Of course I could also put is within the model... but I intend to permanently glue the top on

20200928_145456.jpg.e5e37677e717567dbcf2fa9fd734c0ee.jpg

 

I intended to use pre-wired SMD LEd but they are the devil's work. After destroying 4 in a row (the wires fell off very easily on mine) I decided to play around with these tower LED's I had lying around

20200928_160546.jpg.4855a67df72752136324b02c4fe6c60b.jpg20200928_160613.jpg.e1719d15ee1d29c42c72b39b9f03ce20.jpg

 

I may just reduce it all to one LED...

 

Hello @letterspider

I'm going to make up a Structure Gauging Train with the optical laser wagon included.

I will have something to work off, as a 3D resin printed wagon is available on eBay. I should like to see some of the detail and lighting you included so I can upgrade / add so as to take the resin print further.

Sadly all of your photos arelost to the great 'picture loss', but I would appreciate some pics of where you got to.

Dave

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