RobboPetes Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 I' looking at building a representation of Wolverhampton steel terminal as the main building on my new layout. I want to build the unit in plasticard but have the main sub-structure in plywood. I have looked at woodworker's PVA or an impact adhesive, such as Evostick, and wondered if either of these would be the best to use. The layout will be portable and designed with exhibitions in mind. Any recommendations due to personal experience please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 I don't think PVA will work at all well. Evostick will work, but must be applied sparingly as it can melt plastic sheet. The solvent is slow drying and being trapped between the two layers has time to soften the plastic. Plasticard can also be attached to a wood structure by using solvent (Mekpak, etc.) run between the two layers. That softens the PC surface which then bonds to the wood. However, the solvent evaporates rapidly and doesn't cause the Evostick problem (provided you don't over do it).This ls the technique used for building plastic chaired track on wooden sleepers. That's how the (unfinished) bridge shown here was built, using Slaters Plasticard on a 4mm ply sub-structure. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HLT 0109 Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 I would suggest solvent-free Evostik. Possibly it sticks less firmly than the standard Evostik but I have found it to be entirely satisfactory for model making. It spreads more easily than the standard version, is odourless and has the advantage of being white. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
meil Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Evostick et al will cause the plastikard to warp. Use Rocket Card Glue. It takes a little to "go off" but it will do the job fine without affecting the Plastikrd, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BurtonWetmore Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 I've found rocket card glue by deluxe to be the best for this personally. It's also great for glueing layers of sheet plastikard together. It usually takes a couple hours in the vice to go off, but it doesn't melt or warp the plastic. It will glue wood and plastic in the same way. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobboPetes Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 All, Thank you all for your recommendations. I will try both the Plastic Weld and rocket glue methods on some scrap bits to determine which one works best for myself. As they say - the proof is in the pudding. Watch out for the results on my blog. Rob. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HLT 0109 Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Evostick et al will cause the plastikard to warp. I have not found this to be so with the solvent-free version. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted April 18, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 18, 2013 Further to this thread, has anybody any experience of failure in bonding plastic card to a wood substructure (2mm thick MDF in my case) over time using any of the traditional methods mentioned? I do have failure problems with double sided tape over a three year period. I'm having to seal many of the edges with thin cyano. What is the experience of using 'butanone' type solvents for bonding plastic card to other materials? It seems to work well, but it's the long term durability that I'm considering here. Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Depending on the plastic some plastics - food cartons for example - won't respond to any glue whereas modelling styrene will (except for water based adhesives of course, PVA etc ) but when gluing plastic to wood I prefer meduim density super glue - but you need to be quick. Impact adhesives, Evostik etc, need only be applied to one side and positioned whilst still wet then wieghted down. However, be carefull when gluing very thin sheets of styrene down because Evostik will 'corrode' through - anything a mil thick or over, just fine. Allan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hiffano Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 I have some contact adhesive, which is phenomenal if used sparingly, never had it eat through anything so far, but thats not to say it won't. used to use copydex, but it's very hit and mix on plastics. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Douglas G Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 I find "No More Nails" type adhesive will bond polystyrene sheet effectively to wood, and there doesn't seem to be any effect on the plastic, unlike what can happen with contact adhesives if you use more than a thin smear. Douglas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted April 18, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 18, 2013 Personally? I would use Mitre Bond, it's a thick gel type cyano with a spray activator. apply glue to one face, activator to the other - I'd spray the plastic, then bring the two together. http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-mitre-adhesive-200ml/41795 it's known as "Man Glue" in our house and is probably the weapon of choice these days for mending toys etc etc etc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravy Train Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Hi there, In my profession I use B&Q none solvent impact ahesive, its a milky/copydex texture but dries transparent and grabs very well, I use it when wanting to put a layer of plastic onto the likes of thin ply and it is friendly with the plastic. i have had very good results with UHU onto wood and plastic together eg MDF and ply etc. cheers Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 I am another user of 'No More Nails' for this, as long as you have one surface that is porous it works a treat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Hi Peter (Gravy Train) You could try nailing it ! Just a joke of course, but it worked for me ! Cheers. Allan. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alderson.eric.j Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 From my experience, as I used to scratchbuild wooden structure out of stripwood or Balsa glued onto Styrene, I used simple Plastic Glue (like the Revell Contacta liquid or the MEK from Slaters). The wood litteraly absorbs any kind of liquid. So as the "glue" will soften and "melt" the styrene in surface, this will be absorbed by the wood, thus creating a strong and even bond between the two materials. I built such structures about ten years ago, and they are still OK... Cheers, Ricky. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gravy Train Posted April 18, 2013 Share Posted April 18, 2013 Hi Alan Words of wisdom are those I never thought of that although when I was a teenager I nailed a patterned continental quilt to my bedroom wall was into jethro tull and lots of booze in those days and very long hair but I don't know what that's got to do with gluing plastic and wood I think I lost the plot :-) Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted April 19, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 19, 2013 Many thanks all, particularly from the professionals, thanks chaps. Ouse Valley Viaduct cladding will now stay put! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
allan downes Posted April 19, 2013 Share Posted April 19, 2013 Hi Alan Words of wisdom are those I never thought of that although when I was a teenager I nailed a patterned continental quilt to my bedroom wall was into jethro tull and lots of booze in those days and very long hair but I don't know what that's got to do with gluing plastic and wood I think I lost the plot :-) Peter Re veneered an antique table once Peter with formica and six inch nails. Also had long hair and was legless when I done it - and when I was a kid, and even when I wasn't, jam glued everything. Cheers. Allan. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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