RMweb Premium Barry O Posted October 8, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 8, 2012 Having received some pics of some of the locos I have weathered over the last few years I hope they are of interest.All use ink and weathering powders - no paint as I like my weathering to be removable ( just in case the client doesn't like it(!))First up 40167 - just a gentle over-wash to pick out the detailingand then 42215 - a bit more carewornFinally for the momenta Lizzie - 46206 -one of two I have weathered the other being 46200 seen elsewhere in the building a Princess theme on RMWeb Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted October 9, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 9, 2012 Just to say that these are all weathered without an airbrush or paint An additional 2-6-4T or two.. First a Fowler with cab side windows.. and also a Fowler as built... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted October 13, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 13, 2012 And another green engine - a Jubilee one of my favourite locos. .. and one of those Royal Navy Admirals - Sturdee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold colin penfold Posted October 13, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 13, 2012 Nice subtle work Edited to ask a question. What precautions do you take not to clog up the valve gear when weathering? I always worry that weathering in the wrong place will gum up the movement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted October 13, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 13, 2012 Colin The rods are generally painted with grey primer when I get them. I add a coat of diluted black indian ink using a paint brush so can get it to where I want it to be. While the ink is still wet I use a big ladies cosmetics brush to dust powder over it (don't get the brush on the rods as it clogs the brush with powder). I then let it almost dry and use a ladies powder brush to work the mix down (ie vertically) the rods - This technique doesn't clog the rods ( well touch wood I haven't done to date) as you only leave a very thin coating of powder and ink on them. Hope this makes sense Barry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold colin penfold Posted October 13, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 13, 2012 ...........While the ink is still wet I use a big ladies cosmetics brush to dust powder over it ....... Thanks very much for the info, I will try that. Hope the big lady doesn't catch you borrowing her cosmetics brush.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted October 13, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 13, 2012 Thanks very much for the info, I will try that. Hope the big lady doesn't catch you borrowing her cosmetics brush.............. only did it the once - still bear the scars!!! Bought my brushes from Eileen when she owned the Emporium Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 I've converted to using Watercolour Paint and Watercolour Pencils for weathering - so I can remove it even when dry. I only use real Distilled Water as the medium. Mixing with a little "Future" (the floor stuff) provides a greasy finish, which is handy. Best, Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted October 13, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 13, 2012 I've converted to using Watercolour Paint and Watercolour Pencils for weathering - so I can remove it even when dry. I only use real Distilled Water as the medium. Mixing with a little "Future" (the floor stuff) provides a greasy finish, which is handy. Best, Pete. Pete I use Indian ink ( black) and tap water mixed - the more ink then the shinier it will be when dry - don't have any "future"- can we get it in the UK? I will try and find out Use a paint brush to get the ink onto the loco or wagon or coach ( or building) - run it along the top edges of the rolling stock and then, using a piece of soft foam work it down the sides - as per gravity. let it dry and then use weathering powders to dust it down. if you tap powder onto wet ink it forms a texture which can represent soot with black powder or rust obviously with shades of rust or cement (on tankers/presflos) By the way the powders will wear off apart from where they would be on a loco or wagon and the ink stays as general dirt. If you need to remove it a bit of CIF and water and off you go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 Future aka Klear! I use distilled water because of the high calcium content of my tap water (= whitish residue). You must be lucky in Yorkshire! I use cotton buds to achieve the downward motion but want to try foam "make up" applicators. I've also tried Indian Ink as a wash with 70% IPA. Either way has drawbacks and advantages.... You may want to try real Talcum Powder (check the labels to ensure not cornstarch) as "powder" - it can, usually, take on the colour of the paint. Also useful for cement accumulations on wagons/hoppers. It's fun trying out your own stuff and often much cheaper! Best, Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted October 14, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 14, 2012 Pete got some Klear - thanks its proper water in Yorkshire - I use bottles of it when demonstrating at Warley. I have used talc - its a lot cheaper than weathering powders and is really good on presflos Using the different colours of ink means you can provide "moss" on drainpipes and walls - using suitable powders and greenish ink Its all part of experimentation and learning. Barry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 It's a detail thing, but worth mentioning I feel. The piston rod and working surfaces of the slide bars are always bright metal when the lcoo is working.Generally nicely observed LMR clean locos. (Based on what I saw these would represent the 5% with significant livery on view!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted October 14, 2012 Share Posted October 14, 2012 Thanks, Barry. Maybe I should try importing Yorkshire water (ad: Goes well with Tea!)? I will try some differing Ink colours - I've just found a great artist materials store in The Oranges (I also paint watercolours of Scottish Castles, don't ask why)! I might have guessed you knew about Talc... If you ever want to me to try out something new (to see how I get on with it) PM me, I'll do the same for you - before we go into print on here. Many thanks, Pete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted October 15, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 15, 2012 It's a detail thing, but worth mentioning I feel. The piston rod and working surfaces of the slide bars are always bright metal when the lcoo is working.Generally nicely observed LMR clean locos. (Based on what I saw these would represent the 5% with significant livery on view!) No problem as the motion will clean off any weathering which shouldn't be there - I could wash it off with a cotton wool bud but its better if it cleans itself - however these surfaces do have oil/grease on them ( otherwise they seize up) so it needs a greasy sheen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted October 15, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 15, 2012 And another Duchess - this time in Green ( perhaps I may get a blue one to weather eventually) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted October 17, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 17, 2012 And as we need Black 5s... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted October 22, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 22, 2012 Hi everyone. I have started a "gallery" folder for some of the locos and stock weathered by me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted October 29, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 29, 2012 Sometimes I get a loco to "Re-weather" - ie to try and save it from a full repaint but get rid of the spray all over with dirty black paint. It takes a bit of doing but you can, with the ink and powder technique produce an acceptable ( to the owner) result Looking at a colour photo of City of Salford I managed to add a bit of limescale and then worked on providing some texture to the spray job using weathering powders Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted November 16, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 16, 2012 Sometimes I get the odd O gauge and above to weather- this is a Caley 0-4-4T - well built and photographed by one of the East Yorks team. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlw Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 Hi Barry, Thanks for the demonstration at Warley today (I was there when Polly brought her GWR toad) I really enjoyed what you showed me and look forward to putting it into practice on some of my stock. Thanks Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted November 24, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 24, 2012 Hi Barry, Thanks for the demonstration at Warley today (I was there when Polly brought her GWR toad) I really enjoyed what you showed me and look forward to putting it into practice on some of my stock. Thanks Carl Happy to help - I had a lot of good people having a go at weathering so hopefully this will continue tomorrow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted November 30, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted November 30, 2012 I am hoping that some of the RMWebbers who had a go at Warley can post some pictures of what they, with very limited input from me achieved - they were very good! I know Polly has (including my blue gloves(!)) and thanks for that. But just to keep everyone interested here is another LM loco - a WD 2-10-0 using a photo from one of the various coloured photo books I have acquired over the years Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted December 17, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 17, 2012 One for me - although its a Brunswick loco 44494 - I haven't finished the tender as yet - got a few iron ore wagons to do first! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted December 23, 2012 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted December 23, 2012 Having some time available pre Christmas I am catching up with some weathering for me.... And it includes some BR(NE) locos as well First of a Bachmann G2 - as I had done some work on Mike Delamar's G2 at Warley i thought I needed to do something with mine This on is based on the other colour photo I have of a G2 - so its not quite as dirty as the one I did for Mike ( see weathering with ink and powder) Next up a B1 - yes i do have NE engines and the Hornby one was a must to replace my Proscale kit Its nice to have a namer - and another BR(NE) but one used on the Settle and Carlisle - Colombo - a Jamieson kit built by my father complete with double chimney and German smoke deflectors and finally a Hornby Black 5 - I have a few of these and have yet to attack the tenders following a discussion with Tim at the NEC and finally an EM loco - an A8 and what a beauty! hope they are OK! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted January 8, 2013 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 8, 2013 And now for something completely different... Mr Edge's Mallet - a loco which may have been but sadly never built. The "hammer" is great but it takes a lot of getting "on" the Brunswick turntable on Herculaneum! As it doesn't exist prototype photos are not available so I made use of some Hughes 4-6-0 photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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