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British Rail (LM) Weathering including some Diesels and O gauge


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Having received some pics of some of the locos I have weathered over the last few years I hope they are of interest.

All use ink and weathering powders - no paint as I like my weathering to be removable ( just in case the client doesn't like it(!))
First up 40167 - just a gentle over-wash to pick out the detailing
post-7650-0-01476500-1349695830_thumb.jpg

and then 42215 - a bit more careworn
post-7650-0-44277600-1349696094_thumb.jpg

Finally for the moment

a Lizzie - 46206 -one of two I have weathered the other being 46200 seen elsewhere in the building a Princess theme on RMWeb
post-7650-0-27708300-1349696261_thumb.jpg

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Just to say that these are all weathered without an airbrush or paint

 

An additional 2-6-4T or two..

 

First a Fowler with cab side windows..

 

post-7650-0-24972100-1349796269_thumb.jpg

 

 

and also a Fowler as built...post-7650-0-47026900-1349796348_thumb.jpg

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Colin

 

The rods are generally painted with grey primer when I get them. I add a coat of diluted black indian ink using a paint brush so can get it to where I want it to be. While the ink is still wet I use a big ladies cosmetics brush to dust powder over it (don't get the brush on the rods as it clogs the brush with powder). I then let it almost dry and use a ladies powder brush to work the mix down (ie vertically) the rods - This technique doesn't clog the rods ( well touch wood I haven't done to date) as you only leave a very thin coating of powder and ink on them.

 

Hope this makes sense

 

Barry

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...........While the ink is still wet I use a big ladies cosmetics brush to dust powder over it .......

 

 

Thanks very much for the info, I will try that. Hope the big lady doesn't catch you borrowing her cosmetics brush..............

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Thanks very much for the info, I will try that. Hope the big lady doesn't catch you borrowing her cosmetics brush..............

only did it the once - still bear the scars!!!

 

Bought my brushes from Eileen when she owned the Emporium

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I've converted to using Watercolour Paint and Watercolour Pencils for weathering - so I can remove it even when dry. I only use real Distilled Water as the medium.

Mixing with a little "Future" (the floor stuff) provides a greasy finish, which is handy.

 

Best, Pete.

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I've converted to using Watercolour Paint and Watercolour Pencils for weathering - so I can remove it even when dry. I only use real Distilled Water as the medium.

Mixing with a little "Future" (the floor stuff) provides a greasy finish, which is handy.

 

Best, Pete.

 

Pete

 

 

I use Indian ink ( black) and tap water mixed - the more ink then the shinier it will be when dry - don't have any "future"- can we get it in the UK? I will try and find out

Use a paint brush to get the ink onto the loco or wagon or coach ( or building) - run it along the top edges of the rolling stock and then, using a piece of soft foam work it down the sides - as per gravity.

 

let it dry and then use weathering powders to dust it down.

 

if you tap powder onto wet ink it forms a texture which can represent soot with black powder or rust obviously with shades of rust or cement (on tankers/presflos)

 

 

By the way the powders will wear off apart from where they would be on a loco or wagon and the ink stays as general dirt.

If you need to remove it a bit of CIF and water and off you go.

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Future aka Klear!

 

I use distilled water because of the high calcium content of my tap water (= whitish residue). You must be lucky in Yorkshire!

 

I use cotton buds to achieve the downward motion but want to try foam "make up" applicators. I've also tried Indian Ink as a wash with 70% IPA. Either way has drawbacks and advantages....

You may want to try real Talcum Powder (check the labels to ensure not cornstarch) as "powder" - it can, usually, take on the colour of the paint. Also useful for cement accumulations on wagons/hoppers.

 

It's fun trying out your own stuff and often much cheaper!

 

Best, Pete.

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Pete

 

got some Klear - thanks

 

its proper water in Yorkshire - I use bottles of it when demonstrating at Warley.

 

I have used talc - its a lot cheaper than weathering powders and is really good on presflos

 

Using the different colours of ink means you can provide "moss" on drainpipes and walls - using suitable powders and greenish ink

 

Its all part of experimentation and learning.

 

Barry

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Thanks, Barry.

Maybe I should try importing Yorkshire water (ad: Goes well with Tea!)?

 

I will try some differing Ink colours - I've just found a great artist materials store in The Oranges (I also paint watercolours of Scottish Castles, don't ask why)!

 

I might have guessed you knew about Talc...

 

If you ever want to me to try out something new (to see how I get on with it) PM me, I'll do the same for you - before we go into print on here.

 

Many thanks, Pete.

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It's a detail thing, but worth mentioning I feel. The piston rod and working surfaces of the slide bars are always bright metal when the lcoo is working.Generally nicely observed LMR clean locos. (Based on what I saw these would represent the 5% with significant livery on view!)

 

No problem as the motion will clean off any weathering which shouldn't be there - I could wash it off with a cotton wool bud but its better if it cleans itself - however these surfaces do have oil/grease on them ( otherwise they seize up) so it needs a greasy sheen

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Sometimes I get a loco to "Re-weather" - ie to try and save it from a full repaint but get rid of the spray all over with dirty black paint. It takes a bit of doing but you can, with the ink and powder technique produce an acceptable ( to the owner) result

 

post-7650-0-24777600-1351529845_thumb.jpg

 

Looking at a colour photo of City of Salford I managed to add a bit of limescale and then worked on providing some texture to the spray job using weathering powders

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Hi Barry,

 

Thanks for the demonstration at Warley today (I was there when Polly brought her GWR toad) I really enjoyed what you showed me and look forward to putting it into practice on some of my stock.

 

Thanks

 

Carl

Happy to help - I had a lot of good people having a go at weathering so hopefully this will continue tomorrow!

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I am hoping that some of the RMWebbers who had a go at Warley can post some pictures of what they, with very limited input from me achieved - they were very good! I know Polly has (including my blue gloves(!)) and thanks for that.

 

But just to keep everyone interested here is another LM loco - a WD 2-10-0 using a photo from one of the various coloured photo books I have acquired over the years

post-7650-0-37698300-1354263015_thumb.jpg

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 Having some time available pre Christmas I am catching up with some weathering for me....  And it includes some BR(NE) locos as well

 

First of a Bachmann G2 - as I had done some work on Mike Delamar's G2 at Warley i thought I needed to do something with mine

 

 

 

post-7650-0-63384000-1356265368.jpg

 

post-7650-0-55098200-1356265461.jpg

 

This on is based on the other colour photo I have of a G2 - so its not quite as dirty as the one I did for Mike ( see weathering with ink and powder)

 

Next up a B1 - yes i do have NE engines and the Hornby one was a must to replace my Proscale kit

 

post-7650-0-46130500-1356265597_thumb.jpg

 

Its nice to have a namer - and another BR(NE) but one used on the Settle and Carlisle - Colombo - a Jamieson kit built by my father complete with double chimney and German smoke deflectors

 

post-7650-0-80904200-1356265644.jpg

 

and finally a Hornby Black 5 - I have a few of these and have yet to attack the tenders following a discussion with Tim at the NEC

 

post-7650-0-61576800-1356266050_thumb.jpg

 

and finally an EM loco - an A8 and what a beauty!

 

post-7650-0-55841100-1356265964.jpg

hope they are OK!

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And now for something completely different...

 

post-7650-0-93096900-1357666389_thumb.jpg

 

Mr Edge's Mallet - a loco which may have been but sadly never built. The "hammer" is great but it takes a lot of getting "on" the Brunswick turntable on Herculaneum!

 

As it doesn't exist prototype photos are not available so I made use of some Hughes 4-6-0 photos

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