Havenhouse - the reboot

[JCL]

Well that's my undercarriage fully loaded as they say over here. I was thinking that I was going to have to wait until I went to Calgary to the Supertrain show before I could get some Plastruct tube of the right diameter for the different tanks and such like. Then I remembered that Andy G sent me some four wheel Ratio coach chassis. I took a saw to those tanks to cut them to the right length making sure that I kept at least one set of strapping and bracket, then made the other bracket from plasticard for the sawn end, and used plastic strip to go around the lot. The V hanger(?) was part of the cutting template and is 2x .010" sheets laminated. Buffers are from Markits. I'm just in the middle now of finishing off the bogies, I'll be adding the extended V shaped plates to the solebars, and finally the boards. Then everything below the roof is done and ready for primer.

 

 

Soo, the painting. Jaz! I'm going to have a go at the teak after all! I've got a side that wasn't tall enough, so I've cut this into pieces and I'm trying different paints using Mike Trice's tread as a guide. The underframe and wheel centres are going to be that light brown colour (I think it was autopsy orange), and I think that the bogies themselves, battery boxes, tanks etc, are black. I've been having a go at weathering using black waterproof ink, but in my last expedition to the big city I found a couple of shades of brown as well so I'll be giving them a go - on the test pieces first of course!

 

[uax6]

I hope you are pleased with the result, it looks stunning! The underframe detail is lovely to look at (I'm strange like that!) and sets it off a tee! For the underframe try mixing black and browns together to get that dirty brownish colour that all underframes get caked in. I would be tempted to do them blood and custard, that teaky colour will be difficult to replicate, my attempts was a disaster!

 

Quick tip, Limenone works well with styrene, but, for Go*s sake don't spill it! I spilt about a capful out of the top of the bottles and the box stinks of lemons, which I can't get rid of! At least it is a pleasant smell!

 

Andy G

[JCL]

Will do Andy! On the limonene front though, I don't seem to be able to buy it in Canada.

[JCL]

I meant to say Andy, I'm definitely going to give the teak a go, at least on some scrap. I think that the last time I tried I didn't do enough coats of the orange, so the base layer was too light. This meant that the contrast was too much between that and the burnt umber. This time I'm going to do another test but this time do at least four coats of the orange colour before attempting the teakiing. Also, hopefully the matchboard construction might make it easier. If it all goes haywire, then I'll take the colour off and try again or something else. I don't want to let it beat me though

 

Looking at photos (partly of models to be fair, caveats an' all) there seems to have been a few different schemes:

1. Teak with brown solebars and wheel centres, black bogies and underframe equipment.
2. Teak with black solebars and wheel centres, black bogies and underframe equipment.

3. Possibly LNER brown, black solebars down

4. Blood and custard

5. Possibly all over maroon, but this might have been in the 1980's http://www.cs.vintagecarriagestrust.org/se/CarriageInfo.asp?Ref=819

So probably a few options there.

[JCL]

I'm pleased with where I've got to so far, and I think I'm on the right track (as it were), so I'll upload some of the files that I've created. I'll upload each file based on the material used, so there will be a .010" file, a .020" file, etc. If you download them and have a look at them you might think, "Well why on earth did he do it that way?" The answer will be "I didn't know any better!"

 

There are photos on the internet, but not many. Some good ones are on Flickr, some small ones (unfortunately) here http://www.gcr-rollingstocktrust.co.uk/articles_output.asp?id=11&checkSource=sitemap, and a really useful build by coachman of this parish here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/27404-gcr-barnum-open-brake-third-coach . There are also a couple of other threads on this site, so it's worth searching for them, though you'll see a lot of entries for this thread, sorry about that! Finally, there are two photos of the brake vehicle on Paul Bartlett's photo website http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/lnercoach/h1df0b9bc#hb5d82d5 showing the underframe very clearly (I wish I'd found them before yesterday!) Finally there's the Historic Carriage Drawings Volume one, LNER and Constituents by Nick Campling, which was a must when I put the various parts together.

 

Next post - seating

[JCL]

Seating

 

So here's the first file. The image below shows that I produced the vertical elements of the seating in Inkscape. In the image below the cut lines are in red, the score lines in light blue. Personally I opted to not score in the beading, but to cut it out as well. This is a bit more fiddly, but I thought it would look better. I did initially attempt to fold the two layers together, but they are too fragile, so it was easier to glue the middle seat together with MEK and then work outwards, coaxing the beading into the right place with a cocktail stick or a scribing tool.

 

 

So it works like this:

1. Cut two sets of seats (the file includes enough seats for one half coach)
2. Glue the frame layer to the base layer, then the seat bracket to the other side of the base layer. Make sure that the table legs line up as the three layers will make them pretty sturdy.
3. Cut a strip of .040" plasticard about 11mm wide for the base, and glue the bottom bottom border to the side of this. Glue the window layer to the other side, making sure that everything is square.
4. Cut another strip of .040" for the seat backs and then cut each strip into 9mm parts.
5. Cut a 11.5mm wide strip  of .020" for the seat bottoms, and then the strip into 14mm long for each seat, note that two seats will be 7mm
6. Get the glue out and start balancing seat tops and table tops onto the sides. It's surprising how quickly the sub assembly becomes sturdy.
7. The table tops are in the file.

I sprayed the seats a chocolate brown using a can of spray (there was no chance of me getting a paintbrush in there), and the seat material was brush painted crimson red in the end as the printed paper I looked at was going to be far too fiddly for me. The crimson comes out darker on top of the brown. Finally, the brown wasn't quite dark enough for me, so I washed the brown bits with burnt sienna waterproof ink.

 

Note that there seems to have been a wooden strip along the seat backs.

 

 

The DXF file and the SVG file have the same information in them. DXF is good for Studio, SVG is better for Inkscape and printing if you want to do this by hand (and there's no reason why not!)

 

barnum 3 .010 seating final.dxf

barnum 3 .010 seating final.svg

 

Next up, floor.

Edited March 16, 2014 by JCL

[JCL]

Floor

 

The file below contains the floor and has had the thicknesses of the sides and ends taken into account. This can't be cut using the cutter as .040" is too thick, so I printed the file off and got the knife and ruler out! I've also included the pivot points for the bogies that I initially drilled out and then later filed with a round file once I worked out how to attach the bogies to the floor.

 

barnum 040 floor final.dxf

barnum 040 floor final.svg

 

As with the previous post, you don't really need to download both files as they are both the same, just in a different format.

[Jaz]

Love the tables and seats, his is coming along famously....really nice to share your work as well.

[JCL]

Thanks Jaz. No problem with the sharing I'm thinking it's more of a "comprehensive scratch-building aid" rather than a kit as there is some scalpel work even if someone has the cutter. I'm thinking I'll need to add a couple of newspapers to the table tops as well, and get some of those Chinese seated passengers for $10/kg or whatever they are.

[t-b-g]

I am not sure that a carriage full of Chinese people is prototypical for Wainfleet in the period modelled.

 

No Barnums survived in service long enough to be painted in Maroon. There were some in engineers use (including the ones now preserved) which may have ended up in red paint but not for passenger service.

 

Having said that, one on departmental use would be an interesting vehicle in its own right.

 

That is looking really nice and it would be a shame to stop at one vehicle after all your good work developing the techniques and the drawings.

 

How about doing the brake portion and tacking it on to half of your existing all 3rd saloon?

 

Tony

[JCL]

Thanks Tony, I was thinking earlier about drawing out the brake sides. Construction would be the same, and if I did another one I'd hopefully avoid the pitfalls that I fell into on this one. It would hopefully be a bit faster as well, I feel that I've been looking at this for months.

 

The maroon one, the page I linked to said it was repainted in the '80's, but they didn't say if it was from or too maroon. Maybe it was maroon when it was in departmental service...

[t-b-g]

Thanks Tony, I was thinking earlier about drawing out the brake sides. Construction would be the same, and if I did another one I'd hopefully avoid the pitfalls that I fell into on this one. It would hopefully be a bit faster as well, I feel that I've been looking at this for months.

 

The maroon one, the page I linked to said it was repainted in the '80's, but they didn't say if it was from or too maroon. Maybe it was maroon when it was in departmental service...

 

I guess this is the one:

 

http://www.cs.vintagecarriagestrust.org/se/CarriageInfo.asp?Ref=819

 

In which case the red is the departmental "Gulf red" that was used for a while. Not sure of dates but I think it was adopted sometime in the mid 1960s and was only in use for a couple of years, when an "Olive Drab" colour replaced the red. Many vehicles didn't get near a paint shop for a long time and I don't think that Barnum ever got painted again.

 

I did see that vehicle in that condition at Loughborough soon after it had been taken there straight from Barnetby and it hadn't been touched for many a year.

 

Tony

[JCL]

I'm sorry about the delay with the carriage sides etc, the real world reared up and took most of my time over the last few days. The ski season is slowly winding down, and while the snow is still accumulating on the hill, and the avalanche bombs are still going off, the snow in town is steadily melting.

 

Anyway, back to the job in hand attached is the .010" file containing the coach sides, etc. I've tried to label everything correctly, but please let me know if I have anything wrong (v hangers?). These parts are pretty simple, and as usual the red lines are the ones you cut, the other colours should be scored. The black score line should be used to line up the .020" bracing that will be used to both stiffen the side and provide a ledge to line the side up on the floor. You'll probably need to poke out the window holes, and then the sides and doors should be folded and glued (I used MEK and didn't have any problems with warping). There is no tumblehome on this carriage, but there is a fold at the top of the matchboarding, just under the windows. I did this with two rulers.

I also put some .010" x .020" strip between each window, before gluing some .040" square strip along the top of the windows. The carriage side has a cantrail of .040" so the square strip won't be seen. The combination of the vertical strips and horizontal strip will give you slots at the top of the windows for the glazing later.

Since producing these cutting parts I've obviously been putting the coach together, and now I think that I would cut a second inner side and laminate it to the inside of the coach. This, with the strips between the windows would allow the interior of the carriage to look a bit better

 

barnum 3 010 final.dxf

barnum 3 010 final.svg

 

Edited to add the doors for the other end of the coach.

Edited March 18, 2014 by JCL

[JCL]

Carriage ends and sundries in .020" styrene

 

 

This file contains the side bracing - I cut them in .020" and folded along the length before gluing to the side of the carriage in the area indicated by the black scored line. There are a lot of end walls in this carriage, or at least transverse walls. I'll explain what they are:

1. The top three (six parts folded along the floor) are the centre partition, then the partitions between the main part of the carriage and the toilets.
2. The next two down are the inside ends of the vestibule, that is the wall between the vestibule and carriage proper. Again, these are folded up and glued together before being glued to the floor. You need to make sure that the middle part of the bottom has been cleaned out as it needs to sit on the narrow part of the floor. The good thing is that the lower parts on either side off the bottom make sure that the ends are centrally located. While building the carriage I've found that it's difficult to glue the vestibule doors square without some sort of guide to help. This is provided by the inside wall outside guides. Basically glue the inside end walls to the floor. After waiting for the glue to dry, laminate the inside wall outside guide to these inside end walls using the floor as a guide to keep everything square.
3. The outside ends speak for themselves, the matchboarding should obviously face outside. The small tabs at the bottom of each end are fragile, so be careful when snapping.
4. The buffers beams should be folded up, and when you are ready, the holes drilled for whatever buffers you are using.
5. The battery boxes can be folded. I used some L strip on each end and cut some .020" to the correct size to use as the battery box sides.

barnum 3 .020 final.dxf

barnum 3 .020 final.svg

 

[JCL]

Odds 'n' Sods

 

As you read earlier, I created the solebars from [ section styrene, and the underframe details were from brass, styrene strip and parts from some old Ratio 4 wheel carriages suitably cut to size, but the tanks could also be formed from Plastruct tubes as they are within a gnat's tadger of the right diameters.

 

So you are basically up to date now. I still have the roof to do, steps, etc to add, and paint to apply to the outside. Then finally number, and windows, including the etched ones in the toilets.

 

cheers

 

Jason

[Adams442T]

Jason, I find myself amazed at the meticulous dedicated attention you have paid to these, and your generosity in sharing the fruits of your labour.  I live now in Spalding, Lincs., and I've followed your Lincolnshire adventures with delight.

 

I've recently been picking up my girlfriend from Stamford station and found myself casting an eye over the 'scene blockers' made by overbridges, and of course the delightful station and original signalbox too.  Oh dear, I feel the start of a new layout coming on I fear.............................

[JCL]

Thankyou You know, I'm not sure I ever actually went into Spalding. I've certainly been through, and then past it a lot of times heading south, and of course went to the garden centres. I seem to remember there's a busy model railway club there.

 

Stamford is a lovely place, and the station, I've just looked it up, is incredible! That has to be one of the prettiest stations out there. It seems a shame not to model it... not that I'm egging you on of course

[JCL]

Roof Formers

 

This file just has roof formers in it. I have assumed that the formers will be on a roof base that is a rectangle of .040" thick plasticard that has already been cut to size. I will be cutting the roof in .020" card and the

two long sides will extend about .020" below the side of the roof base. Ideally I'd have inserted the roof base between the sides of the carriage, not on it, but if I did this, the plastic above the doorways in the partitions would have been even thinner and more fragile. My roof formers have been glued up and are drying as I write this.

 

barnum 3 020 roof formers.dxf

barnum 3 020 roof formers.svg

 

The bogies can be found here if you were thinking of having a go at them as well. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/81360-using-inkscape-and-the-silhouette-to-create-coach-bogies/ Since I produced that tutorial I have found that the bar at the bottom of the bogie sides is better represented by a .040" square styrene strip.

 

cheers

 

Jason

Edited March 19, 2014 by JCL

[JCL]

It seems I didn't upload the bogie file in that thread, here it is. I created it thinking that .010" styrene would work. It has worked, but I have to admit I didn't get the bogie right first time. My problem was that different axles were different lengths, so the top plates were a bit of a bodge. The sides worked well though.

 

Because of file size issues, the files contain enough parts for one bogie, so if you are opening them in Studio you just need to do a copy and paste to cut a second bogie.

 

fox bogies 010.svg

fox bogies 010.dxf

 

I don't think I can ad anything else. The roof is a rectangle of styrene, as was the roof base, everything else I pretty much cut by hand. If you have a go and find problems, even if it's months down the line, please let me know and I'll do what I can to fix them.

 

cheers

 

Jason

[freebs]

Wow, Jason, this is absolutely brilliant. I am looking forward to seeing it painted!

[JCL]

You and me both Lee. This painting thing isn't a walk in the park. I'm afraid I'm not very good at it, so the actual painting of teak might take a while in kits of test pieces before I attack the carriage. :-/

 

Talking of a walk in the park, I mentioned the conditions at the moment. Here's a couple of photos I took yeaterday.

 

Tfe 'park'

 

Local traction heading to the prairies with a grain train.

Edited March 19, 2014 by JCL

[JCL]

I had a go at the steps today. I was worried about fragility. I wanted to have the largest area possible (which to be fair wasn't large) to butt up against the solebars, so I found some .100" L angle and, using the plans I printed cut rectangles out of one side to leave two tabs that would represent the brackets. Then I filed down the swarf so that the step itself was flat before gluing it up.

 

 

[JCL]

I've decided to definitely go for teak. I've been trying Mike Trice's method with only limited success, so I'm going to go off on a tangent. Mike's Vallejo light orange as the base layer, then Vallejo light brown for the lowlights. Finally some brown/black ink weathering painted on then immediately wiped off with a paper towel to get some shadows between the match board panels.

 

Sorry about the poor photos - ipad and bad lighting in the basement. The solebars, buffer beams and wheel centers are orange brown, which is a fairly good match for the LNER colours, and a browny black for the underframe details. The formers on the roof are done, so just roof, corridor connections and glazing to go - I think.

 

Cheers for looking

 

 

Ken has finished staring at the fence and is currently attempting to stare down the carriage. It's a hobby...

[JCL]

Here we go, no turning back, three coats of Light Orange on the sides, but I forgot to do the coach conection "cowl. It's going to be three or four 5mm strips of .010" styrene squeezed into the shape that I've cut from 5mm thick foamboard. As you can see from the shape, I've glued the end drawing onto it before doing the cutting. Once the styrene is in there, the idea is to dunk the lot into hot water to soften it. I haven't asked anyone if this will work, and in response nobody has told me that it won't, so here goes nothing!

 

[JCL]

Out of interest, are there any books about scratch building locos in styrene? Not that I'm thinking about doing one any time soon, but I'll be going on holiday in a few weeks, and I'm daydreaming about maybe scratch building or boding a D3 so I'll be after something to read.

 

It seems that three different D3s were stationed in Wainfleet for along time until Wainfleet's engine shed was closed. They were rotated every few days because they had to be regularly cleaned out; the water available was very poor. This was an issue across the area - Mablethorpe water was also a serious issue, Boston not quite so much, but hardly ideal. The D3s took over from a cavalcade of small locos, starting with smal 2-2-2T machines, used because of a lack of turning facilities, ending with the Small Hawthornes. The D3s were to be found all over Lincolnshire, with at least one shedded in Louth, and eight at one point in Boston.

 

I definitely want something easier after the Barnum, and this will be the station building and maybe a tourist stock carriage, but maybe I can start knocking together a passable D3 before the end of the year. I'm thinking of doing an Andy G and see if I can find an old chassis as a base. Even if that means compromises I'm not too worried about rounding errors if needs be. I think I'll avoid a brass kit as I think my brain is nearly full from the last few months of constant learning! :-O

 

Anyway, I have the relevant Yeadons on order as a birthday present (it's not happened yet, and if your in town on my birthday I'll buy you a drink - it's the least I can do!) and I'll have to have a search for a diagram somewhere.

 

Here's a photo of what I'm looking at:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/blue-diesels/5539775596/