Wright writes.....

[Tony Wright]

IMG_0685.JPGRe my previous post, I have found a photo too!

The church on your layout is very convincing, Archie.

 

 

 

 

By the end of the month you'll have an A7 going by. 

 

I take it Scottish kirks (out of necessity?) are more 'robust' than some from further south? 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[glo41f]

Wow that P2 is an amazing piece of work given its size. What handsome beasts they were.

 

Thanks for all the info about signalling lever frames too. I feel this is a facet of the hobby which for various reasons modellers have chosen to ignore. When done properly, the operation of a railway takes on a new dimension and the discipline enforces realistic operation. I am really keen to try this on my new project so thanks for the leads chaps.

 

Martin Long

[jamie92208]

Jamie, is there any "Conditional Locking" on your frame, is it possible using Modratec parts?

 

Yes there is, there's a spring at one end of one of the levers if I remember correctly.  Unfortunately the frame is now in France so I can't take a photo to show you till April when we next go over.

I had quite a long email conversation with Harold and can't remember all the details at the moment but will try and find the new set of build instructions and have a look and then let you know.

 

Jamie

[Tony Wright]

There are times when you look at what other people are capable of and think 'why am I bothering'?

Keep on persevering, Jonathan,

 

Remember, Mr Watson is in a class apart. 

 

 

But, with the benefit of a painter of the same status (Mr Rathbone) on top of it, the work of us mere mortals might even look reasonable in comparison. 

 

From what I've seen (and photographed) of your work, it is very well worth your bothering.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Denbridge]

Thanks Denbridge,

 

Interestingly, both scenic-side track-makers on both Little Bytham and Peterborough North are called Norman, Solomon and Saunders respectively. It is both their professions. 

 

Trains 15 unfitted freights.jpg

 

Norman Solomon's work on LB.

 

1 11 17 02.jpg

 

Norman Saunders' work on PN.

 

From these low angles, I think it's fair to say that it's evident they're both OO. The ballasting on PN turned quite Saharan in colour over time, because of penetrating sunlight. It's since been toned down to a more realistic colouring. 

00 will always stand out when viewed 'head on particularly with stock present, but when one looks at more usual views, the results are outstanding. I have returned to 00 from P4/EM for various reasons and am now regretting using Peco, having convinced myself it would be quicker, easier and cheaper ( I have huge stocks of Peco code 75 from an earlier HO German project). That said, with some work, the results aren't too bad   

[St Enodoc]

Yes there is, there's a spring at one end of one of the levers if I remember correctly.  Unfortunately the frame is now in France so I can't take a photo to show you till April when we next go over.

I had quite a long email conversation with Harold and can't remember all the details at the moment but will try and find the new set of build instructions and have a look and then let you know.

 

Jamie

Jamie, the spring is at one end of the locking bars concerned. I took the liberty of replying to Mick while it was the middle of the night over there - see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/64295-wright-writes/page-894&do=findComment&comment=3028625.

Edited February 2, 2018 by St Enodoc

[Lecorbusier]

These are my first forays into track building - my test track (a simple 6" shelf running down one wall of the room). Not quite up to the standard above ... but if having a go takes your fancy it is very rewarding - quite methodical in process and with the right gauges and sequences very achievable for a beginner. (the processes are the same whether you model 00, EM or P4 just different gauges) The right track DVD Tony made with Norman Solomon is extremely good as a guide. It is obviously a work in progress with weathering, actuation and rodding still to complete - I am also going to play around with a bit of scenic modelling for practice as well. As I am using the protocab system there are no electrics.

 

Edited February 2, 2018 by Lecorbusier

[grahame]

There are times when you look at what other people are capable of and think 'why am I bothering'?

 

Yep, sigh.

 

But it's worth remembering that no matter how good everyone else is, they could never do a better job of being you (and the hash you make of your life).

;-)

 

G.

[jamie92208]

Jamie, the spring is at one end of the locking bars concerned. I took the liberty of replying to Mick while it was the middle of the night over there - see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/64295-wright-writes/page-894&do=findComment&comment=3028625.

 

Thanks.   I remember fitting the spring when I rebuilt the frame but don't have  a photo of it.  However I now that it works.

 

Jamie

[APOLLO]

There are times when you look at what other people are capable of and think 'why am I bothering'?

 

I agree with Tony's comment above - persevere. I occasionally buy the "Model Railway Journal" magazine, not that my layouts etc will ever feature in it, nor do I contemplate carrying out some of the modelling that is portrayed to the same level, I buy it just for the inspiration it gives me.

 

As recent "discussion" has shown, we all have varying interests, knowledge, skill sets etc. That should not stop any of us at least trying, and enjoy the hobby in our own way at the same time. I certainly do things "my way" - but will be the first to say there are much better ways !!. It's a learning process, and in this hobby you never stop learning.

 

This thread is perhaps the best on rmweb, not just on account of Tony and his skills, but also the many others who post here. It all inspires me to varying degrees, and has certainly helped me along my way quite a few times, (as has rmweb in general).

 

Hope all is OK with your wife Tony, whatever else, family always matters first.

 

Brit15

[petrovich]

IMG_0685.JPGRe my previous post, I have found a photo too!

That is outstanding, great work.

 

Regards

 

Peter

[richard i]

Modeling going on.

It is not finished yet, I do not / can not work at the speed of others.

However here is the scratch build 12at with almost all the rivets fitted.

I hope Mo is recovering well.

Richard

[gr.king]

 

 

Tim Watson P2 002.jpg

 

That image of the splendid model reminds me of a question I was unable to convincingly answer when building a P2 model: How decisive is the evidence for that "three rounded corners" shape to the opening left for access to the water filler in the original full top fairing of the streamlined non-corridor tenders?

[t-b-g]

Way back in the day, the old "Norris" O gauge layout appeared in the Railway Modeller and a reader wrote and complained, saying that it was daft having pictures of a railway that 99.9% of people could never achieve. I think it was Jack Ray who wrote a follow up letter, saying that most of us could never have a Rolls Royce but it shouldn't stop us from appreciating the workmanship and enjoying seeing one.

 

When you see the work of the very best modellers, you can choose to give up or you can be inspired to try to do a bit better. I choose the latter!

 

I have been lucky enough to see the work of some of the very best modellers at close quarters. When I do get that chance, I just want to find out how they did it, so I can learn from them. I may never be as good as they are but that doesn't matter as long as I am enjoying myself and perhaps learning a few new tricks along the way.

[46256]

In respect of lighting, I find my loft layout often looks its best at midnight with the lights off,,,,,,on this occasion friendly supportive might be nice....agree might be cruel but accurate...any that disagree a photo of a ten pound note is in the post... I always appreciate the models that appear on this thread and are indeed a source of inspiration.

 

Tony might I add my good wishes in respect of Mo.

[micknich2003]

Mick, yes it is possible. Some of the locking bars are sprung to allow conditional locking. Examples in my photo are bars B and C, which have turned spigots on the left end for the springs to fit over. The springs are retained by side plates that aren't fitted yet. The only fundamental thing Modratec can't do at the moment.is sequential locking.

That's interesting, I have never come across Spring worked Conditional Locking.

[CF MRC]

Tim Watson P2 002.jpg That image of the splendid model reminds me of a question I was unable to convincingly answer when building a P2 model: How decisive is the evidence for that "three rounded corners" shape to the opening left for access to the water filler in the original full top fairing of the streamlined non-corridor tenders?

Very good question, that. John Edgson’s drawing shows it as built. The works grey photo of LP clearly shows the extended streamlined faring at the front end. By implication, the rear end would also be more enclosed. However, such streamlining was quickly trimmed back from the A4s in service, so I don’t think it would have survived very long. The others probably didn’t have it.

 

Tim

[micknich2003]

Read a few books, practise and ask questions, there are plenty on here who will help.

 Attached a picture of part of a locking frame I made some years, please feel free to ask questions.[

LOCKING FRAME 1.JPG

Here's a relitivly simple layout for you to "Cut your Teeth On", also shows the locking table and chart. Please feel free to ask questions, it's the only way to learn.

[MJI]

Way back in the day, the old "Norris" O gauge layout appeared in the Railway Modeller and a reader wrote and complained, saying that it was daft having pictures of a railway that 99.9% of people could never achieve. I think it was Jack Ray who wrote a follow up letter, saying that most of us could never have a Rolls Royce but it shouldn't stop us from appreciating the workmanship and enjoying seeing one.

 

When you see the work of the very best modellers, you can choose to give up or you can be inspired to try to do a bit better. I choose the latter!

 

I have been lucky enough to see the work of some of the very best modellers at close quarters. When I do get that chance, I just want to find out how they did it, so I can learn from them. I may never be as good as they are but that doesn't matter as long as I am enjoying myself and perhaps learning a few new tricks along the way.

 

Same reason I like TG/TGT to concentrate on driving cars I will never get the opportunity to drive rather than boring stuff.

 

I want to be inspired, not look at what is basically a random train set.

 

[Lecorbusier]

Read a few books, practise and ask questions, there are plenty on here who will help.

 Attached a picture of part of a locking frame I made some years, please feel free to ask questions.[

LOCKING FRAME 1.JPG

Can I ask what might seem a dumb question. When the lever is pulled, which direction does the bar travel? Is it pulled back towards the lever? What would be really interesting is to see a frame (this one or something similar) actually working in a little youtube video. Does such a thing exist?

 

Edit ... found this - which is probably more fun than of real use but entertaining non the less.

 

Edited February 2, 2018 by Lecorbusier

[micknich2003]

Can I ask what might seem a dumb question. When the lever is pulled, which direction does the bar travel? Is it pulled back towards the lever? What would be really interesting is to see a frame (this one or something similar) actually working in a little youtube video. Does such a thing exist?

As a rule, the tappets are in front of the levers and are under the signalman's feet, a big frame can have tappets both back and front of the frame. The locking bars move either to the left or right depending how the notches are cut.

[New Haven Neil]

I seem to have poked someone with a pointed stick a few days ago, for which I apologise.  I shan't bother answering his diatribe, suffice to say his name dropping goes nowhere with me as he failed to identify the driving force behind the layout, the late Arthur Wilson.  Apologies for the late apology too (!) as I have just come out of hospital myself after an operation.

 

Now, back to modelling....once I can stand up!

[micknich2003]

As a rule, the tappets are in front of the levers and are under the signalman's feet, a big frame can have tappets both back and front of the frame. The locking bars move either to the left or right depending how the notches are cut.

Here's a detail drawing of a typical locking frame.

[Clearwater]

Can I ask what might seem a dumb question. When the lever is pulled, which direction does the bar travel? Is it pulled back towards the lever? What would be really interesting is to see a frame (this one or something similar) actually working in a little youtube video. Does such a thing exist?

 

Edit ... found this - which is probably more fun than of real use but entertaining non the less.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDFYtMpN-yQ

Is that the signal training tool that's now in the NRM artefact hall? We're taking the small people there week after next when its half term. My wife is thrilled at the idea...I've told her at least its warm inside! Also, some nice shots of leaving London Bridge - perhaps useful to the person who's modelling that area.

 

Best to Mo - hope she's recovering.

 

David

[jamie92208]

I've found some photos of the rebuild of my Modratec frame back in 2011. I  hope that they are of interest.

 

Here's the basic frame after I stripped out the previous tappets and locking bars.

Here some of the lower layer of tappets have been placed to check fit and alignment.

Here the locking bars have been placed along with all the intermediate bars where there can be three or four in between each main bar.   It's the main bars that count for the size of the interlocking.

The following three photos show the process of preparing the tappets and locking bars.   Harold's instructions are superb.

Here's a tappet with various shapes filed in it.

The locking bars are drilled at predetermined spacing's using jigs though I believe that some kits come pre drilled. Lengths of brass rod are then inserted to make the locking pins.

These are then filed to the correct length.

Finally the upper layer of tappets are added and the locking can be tested.   I love watching the bars move as you pull the levers.  Normally the box diagram covers the tappets but you can fold it back out of the way.

Not brilliant photos, taken with my old Blackberry Phone but I hope that it has shown the idea.   I had never fabricated anything like this before but a file, a drill press and a vice was all that was needed, along with a set of M3 taps.   

 

Also the old tappets from the Long Preston frame didn't go to waste.  I used them last year to make the bogie mounts for my Midland EMU that we ran for the first time at Warley.  Does that mean that Green Ayre qualifies as Modern Image.

 

Jamie

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 2, 2018 by jamie92208