Wright writes.....

[Tony Wright]

Alan (Pup Cam) and Brian (Poly Bear) paid one of their regular visits to Little Bytham today...........

 

Bringing with them.........

 

 

This Anchorage K3 (which Alan is building). At the moment it's got P4 frames (including a working inside crank axle and con rod!), and it's perched on a slip to stop it leaning over on the OO track.

 

Because he's not got anywhere to run it, he's going to build a set of OO frames for it. 

 

Brian brought this.............

 

 

A Connoisseur tube wagon, on which he's spent some 50 hours, such is the intricacy of this scaled-down-from-7mm kit.

 

Gentlemen, thanks for a really splendid day, your hospitality at lunchtime and your most-generous contributions to CRUK. 

 

Here's to the next time............

 

 

[PupCam]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

Alan (Pup Cam) and Brian (Poly Bear) paid one of their regular visits to Little Bytham today...........

 

Bringing with them.........

 

 

This Anchorage K3 (which Alan is building). At the moment it's got P4 frames (including a working inside crank axle and con rod!), and it's perched on a slip to stop it leaning over on the OO track.

 

Because he's not got anywhere to run it, he's going to build a set of OO frames for it. 

 

Brian brought this.............

 

 

A Connoisseur tube wagon, on which he's spent some 50 hours, such is the intricacy of this scaled-down-from-7mm kit.

 

Gentlemen, thanks for a really splendid day, your hospitality at lunchtime and your most-generous contributions to CRUK. 

 

Here's to the next time............

 

 

 

Many thanks to you and Mo once again for another excellent day and another opportunity to admire and enjoy Little Bytham.     

 

Good company, the world put to rights with the application of common sense and a superb model railway.   What's not to like?  

 

A most enjoyable day indeed!

 

P.S.  Get some more locos to tempt Brian with ......  😀

 

Alan

 

[polybear]

Absolutely - many thanks to Tony, Mo and Jilly for a most excellent day, as well as my "wheel man" Puppers for providing transport and excellent, totally p.c. conversation.

In my defence the estimated 50 hours so far is mainly due to the fact that it's effectively the first etched kit construction I've attempted (there was a predecessor some years ago now, which remains unfinished as yet);  not only has it proved invaluable in learning many techniques it's also also made me realise that there can be much more to "just a wagon" than I realised - the progress shown above has involved the fitting of (IIRC) something like 130+ parts and the total when finished will be in the order of 150. (It's nearly finished now - just buffers, lamp irons, vacuum hoses and - if I can get replacements - the door controllers to fit).

 

The next project?  An etched brass chassis kit beneath a RTR bodyshell I think.  I'll try and not take quite so long on that project!

Edited September 28, 2023 by polybear

[jwealleans]

13 hours ago, polybear said:

there can be much more to "just a wagon" than I realised

 

Hear, hear.   It's a shame we can't tell the photographers of yesteryear the same thing - with a very few honourable exceptions.

 

Stick with it, it's worth the time.   

 

 

Mine has been right round the world, it was a gift from Jesse Sim who brought it back from down under earlier in the year.   Most of the brass soldering had been done but it still needed two or three evenings to fit all the castings.   It's a shame Jim isn't able to produce this little range of kits any more.

 

Edited September 28, 2023 by jwealleans

[polybear]

9 minutes ago, jwealleans said:

 

Hear, hear.   It's a shame we can't tell the photographers of yesteryear the same thing - with a very few honourable exceptions.

 

Stick with it, it's worth the time.   

 

 

Mine has been right round the world, it was a gift from Jesse Sim who brought it back earlier in the year.   Most of the brass soldering had been done but it still needed two or three evenings to fit all the castings.   It's a shame Jim isn't able to produce this little range of kits any more.

 

 

Thanks - that's turned out very nice; one problem I have is that five of the eight door control castings were badly distorted to the point of being unrecoverable - in desperation I contacted Jim in the hope that he might just have a box somewhere marked "spare 4mm castings" (he hasn't) but he has very kindly offered to see if he (a) still has (and can find) the original mould, and (b) it's still usable then he'll cast some more for me - which is excellent, especially bearing in mind that he hasn't offered the 4mm range for some years now (his kits are starting to sell at a premium now on Ebay etc. as a result).

[Mark Laidlay]

Ross's 2003 Lord President now in Australia.  Good model and sound works very nicely, especially the drifting.  Weathered by TMC, a bit heavy to me, wouldn't they have been kept fairly clean?  

[Tony Wright]

27 minutes ago, Mark Laidlay said:

Ross's 2003 Lord President now in Australia.  Good model and sound works very nicely, especially the drifting.  Weathered by TMC, a bit heavy to me, wouldn't they have been kept fairly clean?  

Good morning Mark,

 

This 'style' of weathering is not for me. 

 

As top-link locos, the P2s would have been kept clean, especially those at Haymarket. Looking at pre-War shots, it's hard to find a P2 in as dirty a state as this. It's too uniform in my opinion.

 

Yes, those few pictures taken during the earlier War years of P2s show them to be scruffy (especially with white rectangles painted around the buffer shanks), but is Ross' layout set then? 

 

What's happened to the nameplate? 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Edited September 28, 2023 by Tony Wright
to add something

[Tony Wright]

Weathering LNER locos (or any railway's locos) is a lot more than just squirting dirty thinners through an airbrush.

 

Superlative weathering examples on Grantham............

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Since I don't own airbrush.........

 

 

My own scratch-built K4 has the lightest of dry-brush/thinners treatment, using a sable.

 

 

And Jesse Sim's 'courageous' treatment on the DJH Raven A2 I built for him, which Geoff Haynes had painted. 

 

To my mind, really good weathering is achieved by a variety of techniques, and the airbrush certainly has its place; but not exclusively. 

 

 

Edited September 28, 2023 by Tony Wright
to add something

[MJI]

Kits supplied with wheels

 

This is now starting to annoy me a bit, why?

 

Most wagons I need are 3 hole disc, kits come with 8 spoke.

 

There are only so many Airfix cattle I can build to use them up.

 

Even 12 or 13t opens have got them now.

[Chas Levin]

15 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Brian brought this.............

 

 

A Connoisseur tube wagon, on which he's spent some 50 hours, such is the intricacy of this scaled-down-from-7mm kit.

 

Gentlemen, thanks for a really splendid day, your hospitality at lunchtime and your most-generous contributions to CRUK. 

 

Here's to the next time............

 

 

 

That's a beautiful looking piece of work!

[Mark Laidlay]

4 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Mark,

 

This 'style' of weathering is not for me. 

 

As top-link locos, the P2s would have been kept clean, especially those at Haymarket. Looking at pre-War shots, it's hard to find a P2 in as dirty a state as this. It's too uniform in my opinion.

 

Yes, those few pictures taken during the earlier War years of P2s show them to be scruffy (especially with white rectangles painted around the buffer shanks), but is Ross' layout set then? 

 

What's happened to the nameplate? 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

The nameplate is there but hidden as it's printed, did I read that there is a proper plate in the box?  None of the loose stuff in the box has been added yet, I'll get Ross onto that job.

 

Mark in Melbourne

[LNER4479]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

Weathering LNER locos (or any railway's locos) is a lot more than just squirting dirty thinners through an airbrush.

 

To my mind, really good weathering is achieved by a variety of techniques, and the airbrush certainly has its place; but not exclusively. 

 

 

Thanks Tony for featuring Grantham locos. I can't claim any credit for any of them; you have variously featured the (weathering) work of Tom Foster, Jonathan Wealleans, Graeme King and Barry Oliver in those pictures.

 

I agree with you re mix of techniques and that airbrush-only rarely convinces.

 

That having been said, I have been using an airbrush for my own (feeble) efforts in more recent times, in conjunction with dry brushing, as follows:

 

Air brush in use for initial, overall wash. Degree of application depends on the extent of weathering being depicted. In this case (1967 'Brit'), a heavy application. The sheen you can see is simply because I took this photo seconds after putting down the airbrush. It soon goes matt.

The reason I've taken to doing this is that it provides a suitable base to build the more more detailed weathering up on, gets rid of the 'plastic' appearance of RTR.

(Incidentally, this is Dave Shakespeare's former Badger airbrush)

 

Now preparing for detail weathering, dry brush applied. Most important thing here is to work from a photograph. Doesn't have to be the exact loco but at least representative of what you're trying to achieve. I have amassed a fair library of such photos, general colour pix cut out from magazines.

 

The end result. A particular effect here is the front end 'splattering', typical of a dirty loco that hasn't been cleaned for a while. Easy to overdo, but study of photos shows that cylinders, front steps etc often exhibit this. I reckon this is a combination of the 'catherine wheel' effect of the front wheels training a stream of dirt upwards and the general swirl of air currents around the front end and underframes when running at speed, particularly on a wet day.

By contrast, this example also features some front end enthusiast-applied embellishments, typical of the era - and as per the reference photo.

 

I'm sure others have much better examples but just to illustrate an approach if it is of any interest.

 

[lezz01]

1 hour ago, MJI said:

Kits supplied with wheels

 

This is now starting to annoy me a bit, why?

 

Most wagons I need are 3 hole disc, kits come with 8 spoke.

 

There are only so many Airfix cattle I can build to use them up.

 

Even 12 or 13t opens have got them now.

Just sell them on mate. People always need wheels. Unless you buy them through a society they are getting pricey now.

Regards Lez. 

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

5 hours ago, Mark Laidlay said:

Weathered by TMC, a bit heavy to me, wouldn't they have been kept fairly clean?  

Yes, they would typically get regular cleaning attention, but the intention often fell short of attainment.

 

Plenty of colour pictures of pre WWII LNER pacifics in grubby condition, though as Tony remarks, typically with the exhaust deposits characteristically distributed by the airflow, rather than uniform overall. But I wouldn't rule out one as grubby as this; there's a range of probability, and occasionally examples in the tail of the distribution would occur. Whether  most of us would want one that filthy is a matter of choice...

 

 

[Richard_A]

3 hours ago, MJI said:

Kits supplied with wheels

 

This is now starting to annoy me a bit, why?

 

Most wagons I need are 3 hole disc, kits come with 8 spoke.

 

There are only so many Airfix cattle I can build to use them up.

 

Even 12 or 13t opens have got them now.

I might be interested in a few sets of the spoked wheels. 

[MJI]

1 minute ago, rka said:

I might be interested in a few sets of the spoked wheels. 

May as well wait until I have a decent amout, a couple of months making 12T or 13T opens will provide them

[coronach]

3 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

Thanks Tony for featuring Grantham locos. I can't claim any credit for any of them; you have variously featured the (weathering) work of Tom Foster, Jonathan Wealleans, Graeme King and Barry Oliver in those pictures.

 

I agree with you re mix of techniques and that airbrush-only rarely convinces.

 

That having been said, I have been using an airbrush for my own (feeble) efforts in more recent times, in conjunction with dry brushing, as follows:

 

Air brush in use for initial, overall wash. Degree of application depends on the extent of weathering being depicted. In this case (1967 'Brit'), a heavy application. The sheen you can see is simply because I took this photo seconds after putting down the airbrush. It soon goes matt.

The reason I've taken to doing this is that it provides a suitable base to build the more more detailed weathering up on, gets rid of the 'plastic' appearance of RTR.

(Incidentally, this is Dave Shakespeare's former Badger airbrush)

 

Now preparing for detail weathering, dry brush applied. Most important thing here is to work from a photograph. Doesn't have to be the exact loco but at least representative of what you're trying to achieve. I have amassed a fair library of such photos, general colour pix cut out from magazines.

 

The end result. A particular effect here is the front end 'splattering', typical of a dirty loco that hasn't been cleaned for a while. Easy to overdo, but study of photos shows that cylinders, front steps etc often exhibit this. I reckon this is a combination of the 'catherine wheel' effect of the front wheels training a stream of dirt upwards and the general swirl of air currents around the front end and underframes when running at speed, particularly on a wet day.

By contrast, this example also features some front end enthusiast-applied embellishments, typical of the era - and as per the reference photo.

 

I'm sure others have much better examples but just to illustrate an approach if it is of any interest.

 

Looks just right to me !
 

It’s really difficult to capture dirt on a locomotive in a way that doesn’t have the appearance of being deliberately applied. I’ve just started the weathering on my G5 0-4-4T using dry brushing and a light application of powders.

 

It is important to understand where the dirt comes from, how and where it is distributed and that most of the dirt accumulates when the locomotive is in motion. A well done model locomotive reveals far more of the detail than if it is kept in neat condition, in which case items can be obscured by shadow or reflection. 
 

There is much more for me to do on the G5, in particular additional work to enhance the oily and wet parts - dry brushing and powder treatment on their own can result in a very anhydrous appearance whereas live steam locomotives exhibit water and oil effects. In these cases, gravity impacts on which areas to treat. And who’d have thought to pick out the timber planking behind the buffer beam plate?
 

Zooming in on the photo above shows me that I need to spend a bit more time on the side tanks. The gloss black base finish has resulted in brush strokes - although they aren’t particularly noticeable from 2ft away. 

Edited September 28, 2023 by coronach

[Tony Wright]

3 hours ago, Mark Laidlay said:

The nameplate is there but hidden as it's printed, did I read that there is a proper plate in the box?  None of the loose stuff in the box has been added yet, I'll get Ross onto that job.

 

Mark in Melbourne

Thanks Mark,

 

There is a replacement set of brass 'plates with the P2s, but they have no relief to the lettering and are too thick. 

 

I eventually used 'proper' etched 'plates on mine.......

 

 

For the purpose of my review, I fixed on the substitute metal nameplates supplied, but the letters have no relief and the 'plate is too thick.

 

 

The opposite side to the shot you featured, but the etched 'plate is visible here. 

 

Did TMC paint the tender wheels black? As supplied, they're in green, but that's not the LNER's painting spec'.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

[Tony Wright]

3 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

Thanks Tony for featuring Grantham locos. I can't claim any credit for any of them; you have variously featured the (weathering) work of Tom Foster, Jonathan Wealleans, Graeme King and Barry Oliver in those pictures.

 

I agree with you re mix of techniques and that airbrush-only rarely convinces.

 

That having been said, I have been using an airbrush for my own (feeble) efforts in more recent times, in conjunction with dry brushing, as follows:

 

Air brush in use for initial, overall wash. Degree of application depends on the extent of weathering being depicted. In this case (1967 'Brit'), a heavy application. The sheen you can see is simply because I took this photo seconds after putting down the airbrush. It soon goes matt.

The reason I've taken to doing this is that it provides a suitable base to build the more more detailed weathering up on, gets rid of the 'plastic' appearance of RTR.

(Incidentally, this is Dave Shakespeare's former Badger airbrush)

 

Now preparing for detail weathering, dry brush applied. Most important thing here is to work from a photograph. Doesn't have to be the exact loco but at least representative of what you're trying to achieve. I have amassed a fair library of such photos, general colour pix cut out from magazines.

 

The end result. A particular effect here is the front end 'splattering', typical of a dirty loco that hasn't been cleaned for a while. Easy to overdo, but study of photos shows that cylinders, front steps etc often exhibit this. I reckon this is a combination of the 'catherine wheel' effect of the front wheels training a stream of dirt upwards and the general swirl of air currents around the front end and underframes when running at speed, particularly on a wet day.

By contrast, this example also features some front end enthusiast-applied embellishments, typical of the era - and as per the reference photo.

 

I'm sure others have much better examples but just to illustrate an approach if it is of any interest.

 

Good afternoon Graham,

 

Your 'Brit' is just how I remember seeing them at the fag-end of steam on BR. 

 

As you know, I did a make-over on one of the last Hornby tender-drive 'Brits'.......

 

 

Fitting proper loco-drive frames (Comet), detailing it, renumbering/renaming it and weathering it. 

 

I'm glad you bought it, because.........

 

 

 

 

DORNOCH FIRTH is much more at home on Shap. 

 

Weathering was by dry-brush/thinners, a cotton bud in part and even my finger!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

[Ncl]

Morning Gents. 

 

I'm building a break and open Barnham, resin kits supplied by Alan. Does anyone have the numbers for 1938 LNER please?

 

Many thanks in advance

 

King regards

 

Nick

[2750Papyrus]

2 hours ago, Ncl said:

Morning Gents. 

 

I'm building a break and open Barnham, resin kits supplied by Alan. Does anyone have the numbers for 1938 LNER please?

 

Many thanks in advance

 

King regards

 

Nick

Campling quotes 594-7 and 5710-3 for open thirds and 5695-7 for brake thirds.

 

These make up into impressive coaches and give you corridor stock that doesn't need lining. Mine are fitted with Train-Tronic lights and passengers.

[jwealleans]

Steve Banks has two pages on the Barnums in the GC section of his website.   You'll be able to find numbers in there, just add a leading 5 for LNER numbering.

[60526]

Tony,

This photo from Ben Brooksbank came up on another site this morning and I wonder if it might stir a few memories from your youth. Aside from being at Chester, that ex LNER horsebox looks interesting, I'm no specialist but probably a dirty crimson?

 

 

[jwealleans]

5 minutes ago, 60526 said:

that ex LNER horsebox looks interesting, I'm no specialist but probably a dirty crimson?

 

Diagram 5.  I believe BR built some more for the WR after 1948, so there were LNER horseboxes numbered with a 'W' prefix.   It's a bit late for crimson, isn't it, but I agree that's most likely given the shade the photograph has given it.

 

 

[60526]

Thanks Jonathan, anyone make a model of one of these? When were these first produced?