Steadfast Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 Hanson No 4 is a loco I've wanted to model for years, since the first time I saw it dwarfed between 100t bogie hoppers and the GM switcher. The model is non motorised, as it doesn't seem to move very often. It will be an interesting scenic item to pose by the shed like the real thing does. So here's the ingredients, a drawing turned into templates, Pritt Sticked onto three thicknesses of plastic sheet, a Peco chassis and some couplings. Progress so far after an evening's work. The cabside overlay allows the recessed sliding door to appear correctly set back and seems quite sturdy so far. It's by no means perfect, but should look good once its painted and weathered. Here's how the underside looks, a Peco brake van underframe bought by mistake (thinking it was a wagon chassis) has served its use here, with the suspension detail and one set of brake shoes per axle going under the shunter. It takes longer to describe than it does to chop off the stepboards and cut into two short sections. Hopefully I'll be able to crack on with the bonnet soon jo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rods_of_Revolution Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 You've made quick progress with that, it was just an idea a few days ago! Nice attention to detail too with the correct brakeshoe configuration. You should get a blinking orange LED, stick it on the roof and power it with a cell battery, would make interesting feature and add some animation to an otherwise static model. Cheers, Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steadfast Posted December 2, 2012 Author Share Posted December 2, 2012 Cheers Jack, interesting idea, I'll have to look into that i like the sound of it. To be honest most of the time has been cutting windows etc out. The actual assembly has been quite rapid jo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 Perhaps you could get one of those little Tu-7T motor units http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Super-Mini-Size-Motorized-Chassis-TU-7T-N-scale-/360500996048?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item53ef88a7d0 under it - failing that, a Kato Portram bogie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Mike Posted December 2, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 2, 2012 Nice - I'm part way through drawing up the same beastie in Blender to be 3D printed. Designed for 4mm, but could be scaled down reasonably easily. Thomas Hill's came in 3 common wheelbases - 5ft, 6ft6 and 9ft. Pretty sure this is 5ft w/b. Cheers, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steadfast Posted December 2, 2012 Author Share Posted December 2, 2012 Hi Bernard, Thanks for the link to a chassis, it's certainly something I'm open to consideration on for the future, and I'm leaving room to allow it to be easily done. I'm going to stick with it as a 'dummy' unit for the time being, as it's really just a cheap project to practice my scratch building and keep me occupied last week while I was off work. Other than plastic 'consuables' the unused Peco chassis and a set of couplings are all it has taken. Mike, thanks for the wheelbase info. By my drawing it's 12mm, so 6ft ish, but that's purely from guesswork, no tape measures were harmed in the creation of my drawing. Height was worked out from a photo of it next to a JHA. Is it your photos on Flickr, taken from the Angel of Bedlam tour? Very, very useful if they are! I've done some more work today, will try to get the photos online tomorrow jo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rods_of_Revolution Posted December 2, 2012 Share Posted December 2, 2012 Nice - I'm part way through drawing up the same beastie in Blender to be 3D printed. Designed for 4mm, but could be scaled down reasonably easily. Thomas Hill's came in 3 common wheelbases - 5ft, 6ft6 and 9ft. Pretty sure this is 5ft w/b. Cheers, Mike If those are the standard sizes I think it's probably 6ft 6in, ARC No1 was also a Thomas Hill product and it has a smaller wheelbase than ARC (Hanson) No4. Though, of course, ARC No1 could be less than 5ft in wheelbase, it certainly looks like it would do a wheelie rather than go any where if it tried pull a 100+ ton stone hopper! Kindest Regards. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Mike Posted December 2, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 2, 2012 No 1 is a converted steam chassis (TH133C), whereas No 4 was new build diesel (TH200V) IIRC. I spent a lot of time scaling photos of no 4 and I thought it was 6ft 6 at first, but some conversations with various people convinced me I am 99% certain it is 5ft. The easiest way to check is measure from a side on photo the buffer height, which is standard and then scale the w/b. Cheers, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rods_of_Revolution Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 No 1 is a converted steam chassis (TH133C), whereas No 4 was new build diesel (TH200V) IIRC. I spent a lot of time scaling photos of no 4 and I thought it was 6ft 6 at first, but some conversations with various people convinced me I am 99% certain it is 5ft. The easiest way to check is measure from a side on photo the buffer height, which is standard and then scale the w/b. Cheers, Mike On closer inspection I expect you're right, the wheels look to have the same distance between them as 3 chairs, and with a standard GW track spacing of around 2ft 6in that would make it a nice round 5 feet. It can be clearly seen in this photograph: http://www.flickr.co...157631917178424 Cheers, Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Mike Posted December 3, 2012 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 3, 2012 On closer inspection I expect you're right, the wheels look to have the same distance between them as 3 chairs, and with a standard GW track spacing of around 2ft 6in that would make it a nice round 5 feet. It can be clearly seen in this photograph: http://www.flickr.co...157631917178424 Thanks Jack - that's a relief that I don't have to re-draw my artwork! Neat idea on the sleeper spacing as well (on one of my photos!). Cheers, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steadfast Posted December 4, 2012 Author Share Posted December 4, 2012 Nice work with the wheelbase maths guys, looks like I've got adjustment of the wheelbase to do then. Hopefully I didn't use too much glue... I've taken pictures of current progress, but still need to get them off the phone jo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steadfast Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 Here's the update that was promised for Monday. Various events overtook proceedings, and I've started again with the chassis as I wasn't happpy with various aspects of it. It was too wide, the step wells got messed up, and the suspension was so well glued on I couldn't remove it without destroying the chassis. So mk2 is the white chassis in the final image, which is where I'm up to tonight. I've also managed to shorten the wheelbase to around 5ft (just over 10mm) I'm not sure yet how I'll do the buffers, possibly some turned brass Oleos, with some thin metal soldered on and turned down in the minidrill with a file. I could then use some brass stril section for the extension pieces. Or it may just be simpler to raid dad's little drawers full of nails... Any other ideas? jo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rods_of_Revolution Posted December 8, 2012 Share Posted December 8, 2012 I still don't get how you manage to cut plasticard that small! The buffers are tricky, because they have some kind of extension plate on the back of them, the actual buffer could just be a pin in a bit of brass or plastic tube. My answer to eveything is 3D printing of course! Looking good thus far though! Cheers, Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steadfast Posted December 8, 2012 Author Share Posted December 8, 2012 I still don't get how you manage to cut plasticard that small! Cheers, Jack More by luck than by judgement! Though a new, sharp scalpel blade helps. I hadn't thought of 3D printing the buffers, will keep in mind if all else fails! I've got loads of various plastic sections and metal I can play around with first, especially since I've worked out I can turn down plastic rod in the mini drill jo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steadfast Posted December 19, 2012 Author Share Posted December 19, 2012 Here's a quick update on the Thomas Hill. I haven't had much free time recently, but have built a new bonnet and made the roof. The handrails are soldered to the roof, in effect forming the rain strips above the side windows. The holes to locate them in the cabside are on the big side, but the idea is the roof and handrails will be glued on, then the overlarge holes, which allow for adjustment, will be filled prior to painting. Once I've got the Microtrains mounting sorted, the bufferbeams can go on. Although it's not photographed, I've also made the grill and front handrail up, from plastic strip and soldered wire respectively. jo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steadfast Posted January 15, 2013 Author Share Posted January 15, 2013 A quick update of progress to date. Yes I'm aware the chassis is back to front...why do you only notice when its too late? The doors are .25mm plastic, with 0.2mm wire hand rails. I think I might red the suspension and running gear, as it is the buffer beams touch the track. I've got a few more Peco chassis to hack up The clearance is there so in future it can be replaced with a motorised chassis, more than likely a Nigel Lawton job or similar. The Japanese chassis, although the wheelbase isn't too bad, but the motor is too far forward, and would be in the hood area, rather than the cab so not enough clearance. The filler primer on the bonnet looks vaguely ARC mustard...I think the buffers may be too small, any thoughts? jo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lyneux Posted January 16, 2013 Share Posted January 16, 2013 Looking great Jo! Agreed - buffers look a bit small. Also, in later life the buffers were extended with an additional spacer. Are you doing it in ARC Mustard or Hanson Blue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steadfast Posted January 16, 2013 Author Share Posted January 16, 2013 Cheers Guy, The buffer length is a bout right I think, as the real loco has short stubby buffers fitted to the spacers, from looking at Mike's photos linked above. The ones I've used are like a triple section Oleo, so if I can disguise the 3rd part as the spacer, they will do for the time being. I'm unsure about increasing the size of the heads, unless I solder some metal on and turn it down with the mini drill. Failing that I may look at 3D printing, as making the spacers will be ridiculously small! As for livery, it'll be Hanson blue with a good dose of neglection! jo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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