Whats on your 2mm Work bench

[bradfordbuffer]

9 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

Have a look at compensating beams on full size locos and see where they are - I don’t think you’ll find any on the axle centres.

Won't find a 12v corless motor in a jinty either!

[Michael Edge]

I wasn't trying to be funny - just suggesting that what works in full size is often the best solution for a model. I think the central compensating beams lead to instability in models. Our models share the same dynamics as any railway, they are just a lot smaller.

[bradfordbuffer]

52 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

I wasn't trying to be funny - just suggesting that what works in full size is often the best solution for a model. I think the central compensating beams lead to instability in models. Our models share the same dynamics as any railway, they are just a lot smaller.

Soz should of put funny face as I was just jesting with a hint of sarcasm 

G

[Michael Edge]

No offence taken!

[bradfordbuffer]

4 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

No offence taken!

I must try harder

[Klaus ojo]

On 28/10/2022 at 10:45, Michael Edge said:

I wasn't trying to be funny - just suggesting that what works in full size is often the best solution for a model. I think the central compensating beams lead to instability in models. Our models share the same dynamics as any railway, they are just a lot smaller.

Michael,

I am very easily a victim of funny ideas, however, I think I should not follow you in this respect:

Physics do not necessarily scale in a linear way and something that does work in 1:1 may fail in 1:152, e.g. due to different impact of friction, inertia etc..  Would you recommend to design a model with a representation of compensated sprung hornblocks?

My photo of a paused project making use of a 2mm SA chassis (3-640)  is showing what I am thinking about. Would this have a chance to work?  I  fear making compensation functional would demand much more space than available and look coarse. Even with an outside frame designed for hornblocks.  And I´d need more acurracy and better skills...

I´d appreciate some hints for a possible future etch design of this prototype. I had problems with accuracy doing it with saw and file and might have a try with a more sophisticated approach, at least as an option parallel to a simpler design.

 

Richard,

thank you for showing your interesting experiment !

 

cheers

Klaus

Edited November 27, 2022 by Klaus ojo
wording

[Michael Edge]

I agree, friction doesn't scale but in that case using hornblocks is asking for even more trouble. My preferred compensation method is with pivoted beams just inside the frame plates, this drawing shows how they are etched.

The two beams are drawn above the frame plate with lines added to show where the pivot points are. One beam connects two axles, the other is a swinging arm, the axle is allowed to rock under a central knife edge at this end. The whole set up is based on etched holes (including the coupling rods), no adjustment is ever necessary, the two beams at one end give much more lateral stability than a single central beam and the two pivots at this end plus the knife edge give the "three legged stool".

Swinging arms actually follow modern railway practice for suspension, in that case with springs and dampers, hornblocks have been seen as antiquated in full size practice for many years now.

Incidentally this system restricts the up and down movement, the axle bearings are in the beams, the hole in the frames is a little larger - most compensation systems allow far too much movement.

There are marks for hornblocks in most of my etches - for those who insist on doing it this way, I don't use them.

[2mmKiwi]

In between laying track, wiring and setting up my DCC system I have been building this ex GWR Cordon, since taking these shots I've added the remaining running boards and its almost ready for the paint shop.

[martin580120]

I've spent some of the last few weeks re-planning my intended layout, procrastinating and making a 50% scale rough mockup of what it might look like.

 

Most of the last fortnight's modelling time has been working out some proof of concept on the backdrop for the layout, some Glasgow Corporation B2 Tenements.

 

 

I've started another topic with more details and to stop me posting long form essays in this topic(!) As I have a tendency to braindump/overshare (depending on your interest...)

 

 

[Nig H]

Here are some pics of an LMS non-corridor composite I have been working on recently. 

 

 

 

The coach is made from Worsley Works etches. The sides are nicely etched with crisp detail for the doors and door knob/ handle holes. The etched sides came (mistakenly) with BR Mark 1 profile ends but the underframe parts include LMS non-brake ends, so I was able to get on with the build anyway. The underframe includes fold down side trussing, but when I checked the length of the trussing from the queen post to the solebar, I found it was too short so I replaced all the side trussing with some I'd etched myself. The cross trussing supplied with the underframe is too wide, and I needed to remove about a millimetre from each side to get it to fit between the side trussing.

 

I used Ultima castings for the battery box, dynamo, voltage regulator and vacuum cylinders. The etched battery box included with the underframe etch was too big.

 

I suspect the ends are too wide, maybe no allowance having been made for the thickness of the sides. I only discovered this when I came to fit the roof and found the roof was about the same width as the sides at cantrail level. For the remaining four coaches I will make from the WW etches, I'll narrow the ends a bit before soldering to the sides.

 

There are some parts which I think should be soldered inside the ends and sides and act as a bracket to bolt the underframe to the body. I didn't use these parts but soldered the underframe to the body. I'm not sure how to keep the bottom of the sides straight against the top of the underframe otherwise.

 

It has been interesting making a coach using mainly soldered assembly. I will be able to do most of the assembly work before painting it all.  I hope that I can avoid some of the problems that arise when I make coaches in my usual way where the painted sides are superglued to a plasticard floor and end assembly, with a separate underframe. This method often results in the paintwork getting scuffed during handling, especially when the roof is being fitted. On the other hand fitting the glazing inside the coach will probably be more difficult.

 

Today I have been gluing narrow strips of 5 thou plasticard to the roof to represent the ribs covering the roof panels on Stanier coaches. A tedious job, and it will need a lot of tidying up when the Mekpak has dried overnight.

 

Nig H

 

 

[65179]

Have you tried using Jammydog micro masking tape for the ribs Nigel? It was and I think still is available 0.5mm wide. That's still a little bit chunkier than ideal, but easier to work with than plasticard, particularly if you add it up against a former.  I believe Dr Nick may have used it too.

 

Simon

Edited November 8, 2022 by 65179

[martin580120]

I've just bought a LMS non corrisor brake third and third from Worsley Works to have a go at, so it's really interesting seeing your commentary!

[Nick Mitchell]

On 08/11/2022 at 16:25, 65179 said:

Have you tried using Jammydog micro masking tape for the ribs Nigel? It was and I think still is available 0.5mm wide. That's still a little bit chunkier than ideal, but easier to work with than plasticard, particularly if you add it up against a former.  I believe Dr Nick may have used it too.

 

Simon

 

I have used it, and it looks to still be available on their website:

 

[DuncanFogg]

I have done the same thing with strips cut from Post-It notes. It is just about tacky enough to hold in place whilst working on it, held properly in place with a coat of Klear floor polish/varnish.

 

Duncan

[18131r]

On 09/11/2022 at 22:18, Nick Mitchell said:

 

I have used it, and it looks to still be available on their website:

 

Hello

If it is of any help, there is a similar tape available from wizard models, although it is dearer.

 

C20: Carriage Roof Tape (25m reel) - Wizard Models Limited

 

Richard

[tapdieuk]

A bit big for the bench, but useful for testing. A large roundy roundy circuit.

 

The last bits of rail went in last night. A testing lap or two was run, with the wires clipped to the track. Just some permanent wiring to solder up. 

Edited November 12, 2022 by tapdieuk

[queensquare]

4 hours ago, tapdieuk said:

A bit big for the bench, but useful for testing. A large roundy roundy circuit.

 

The last bits of rail went in last night. A testing lap or two was run, with the wires clipped to the track. Just some permanent wiring to solder up. 

Brilliant Will, what’s the radius.

 

Jerry

[tapdieuk]

Jerry it's 23" radius give or take.

Will

[queensquare]

10 hours ago, tapdieuk said:

Jerry it's 23" radius give or take.

Will

 

Ive been threatening to do one of those for myself for a long time. My minimum radius is 24" so a 23" test track is perfect - must pull my finger out!

 

Jerry

[Richard Hall]

A bit more work on the compensated chassis after I went to an exhibition and found a 1980s GEM "Jinty" body kit at a 1980s price.  Nice clean castings, soldered up easily apart from the cab which I suspect was pushing the limits of what George Mellor could do with whitemetal.  It is a bit basic but I'll tart it up with a few details, some nice brass buffers and so on.

 

 

The kit was designed to fit the old Farish 9400 Pannier chassis, and I was expecting the dimensions to have been stretched slightly.  I was surprised to find it is slightly smaller than the new-tool Farish Jinty in every dimension including width, which makes me wonder whether it is actually 2mm scale.  It sat much too tall on the Farish chassis to clear the big motor: it will be interesting to see how it looks on my Fencehouses chassis.

 

 

I have had to change the motor on my chassis as the 8 x 15 flat can fouled the body and not just a little bit.  I have a stash of coreless motors in my gloat box, identical to the ones Farish use: one of those just clears the front of the tanks.  I need to shorten the frames a bit at the back, and take a bit of metal off the underside of the body, but nothing too tricky.  What I don't have is an analogue controller which works well with coreless motors, so I might have to DCC this one just to see if it runs.

 

Richard

 

 

[DavidLong]

The original review of this kit in, I think, 'Model Railways' was done by none other than Tim Watson!

 

David

[Richard Hall]

A bit more work on the Jinty which now sits almost level on the chassis, just needing a bit of fettling at the back and some means of attaching the body to the chassis.  I also tackled the brake gear which was tricky as I have "repurposed" a couple of mounting holes and obliterated a couple more by moving the drive to the rear axle. The photo makes the result look much nicer than it actually is.

 

 

I thought It looked slightly short and stubby, and the Roche drawing confirms that a bit of length has gone missing, split between the front footplate and the bunker.  I might build up the latter with Plastikard, and maybe change those cast coal rails for something a bit nicer.

 

Or maybe I'll just paint it blue with a big red "1" on the side tanks and see if we can get some of the kids into 2mm modelling. Start 'em young...

 

Richard

[tapdieuk]

The roundy roundy test is proving useful for bedding in the locos. 

It was set up in the front room after getting back from the Portsmouth show yesterday.  While I tinkered at the work bench, one of the locos was left to run. Speed and direction were changed along with turning the loco around. The slower running did show up a couple of tight to gauge places in the loop. All sorted quickly with the hot iron from the bench. 

 The Terrier did start to test my patience, after gluing in the lead weights in the side tanks, a crank pin started to catch a foot step. By the time the glue had a hold of the lead weight one of them had move and was rubbing on the middle wheel. The loco stated limping. At that point I walked away for dinner

This was traced back to the quartering slipping, after re setting the loco would trundle around at 4ish volts.

It is the noisiest sounding loco a bit of a coffee grinder even after cleaning and oiling. 

The only ready dud was the Flat Iron Chassis. After insulating the frames from the body with Rizzla paper and super glue,  the running is not great. 

The wheels were a set of whitemetal centred wheels. It will run slow but with a slight lumpy gait. Possible just a new set of wheels.

 

 

 

 

 

[tapdieuk]

Some thing a bit different for me, a coach. 

6 wheeled Midland type. The body is a from a set of etches passes to me, the chassis is from a set of etches by Richard.

It's al bit rough in places, and I have a better idea how to tackle the next one.

Time to sort out a roof and figure how to paint the Midland livery. 

 

 

 

[Compound2632]

1 hour ago, tapdieuk said:

Some thing a bit different for me, a coach. 

6 wheeled Midland type. The body is a from a set of etches passes to me,

 

It's a shame the designer slipped up on the panelling either side of the lavatory window.

 

The lavatory thirds, D494, had two panels either side:

 

 

[Embedded link to catalogue thumbnail of Midland Railway Study Centre item 64264]

 

But the unevenly-spaced ventilator hoods indicate that the designer was aiming to represent one of the D512 luggage composite converted to lavatory composite, that had a single panel either side:

 

 

[Embedded link to catalogue thumbnail of Midland Railway Study Centre item 64271]