David Siddall Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 What's the general consensus? I do need more practice. Doesn't look like it from where I'm sitting Jack :-) Only thing I could suggest is that I was recommended to use a metal-blackening fluid on my coupling links... David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGhostofNigelGresley Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 In all honesty Jack, I would say that they would bear comparison favourably with anything I've seen on here. They're very good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 What's the general consensus? I do need more practice. Doesn't look like it from where I'm sitting Jack :-) I so agree! Only thing I could suggest is that I was recommended to use a metal-blackening fluid on my coupling links... Yes, but I would also suggest 'closing up' those links with solder before you do that so there is no unprototypical gap. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbo Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Ahh yes! Glad i'm only 19.... Now you may remember that I said the duckets were absolute pigs to do?..... .....As were the sandboxes And this is the leap forward, the body assembled, and placed on the floor And here's the basic chassis assembled, solebars, bufferbeams, and the floor in place. As usual, hope you are enjoying, Will get on with it, as I have 2 weeks off work, so might actually get it finished....? JPi Ahh yes! Glad i'm only 19.... Now you may remember that I said the duckets were absolute pigs to do?..... .....As were the sandboxes And this is the leap forward, the body assembled, and placed on the floor And here's the basic chassis assembled, solebars, bufferbeams, and the floor in place. As usual, hope you are enjoying, Will get on with it, as I have 2 weeks off work, so might actually get it finished....? JPi Fab work you've done ! What are your painting methods ? Jim B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markeg Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Excellent job Jack. Not over done and still legible lettering. Did you spray these? MArk in OZ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmrspaul Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Dear Jack They look very nice, but there is a small mistake with the Morton unfitted brake on the open. The V-hangers should both be immediately behind the solebar. You have done that on one side but put the other on the inners members. The V hanger should be between the brake lever and the brakes. Brakes themselves are not parallel with the solebar but are nearer to the V hanger and then each is bent outwards so that they align with the wheels. Paul Bartlett Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 Doesn't look like it from where I'm sitting Jack :-) Only thing I could suggest is that I was recommended to use a metal-blackening fluid on my coupling links... David Well thank you, and yes! Blackening fluid is definitely on the list - have been too busy to get on with much at the moment though In all honesty Jack, I would say that they would bear comparison favourably with anything I've seen on here. They're very good. That's very encouraging to hear! Thank you! What's the general consensus? I do need more practice. Doesn't look like it from where I'm sitting Jack :-) I so agree! Only thing I could suggest is that I was recommended to use a metal-blackening fluid on my coupling links... Yes, but I would also suggest 'closing up' those links with solder before you do that so there is no unprototypical gap. David My first attempt at soldering, how does it look? Fab work you've done ! What are your painting methods ? Jim B Thank you Jim! A combination of brushes and airbrushing, Using tamiya paints and thinners mainly. Excellent job Jack. Not over done and still legible lettering. Did you spray these? MArk in OZ Hey Mark, Mainly airbrushing, but I also brush paint some things, I would say it ends up being 65/35 Dear Jack They look very nice, but there is a small mistake with the Morton unfitted brake on the open. The V-hangers should both be immediately behind the solebar. You have done that on one side but put the other on the inners members. The V hanger should be between the brake lever and the brakes. Brakes themselves are not parallel with the solebar but are nearer to the V hanger and then each is bent outwards so that they align with the wheels. Paul Bartlett Yes, I read the instructions wrong, Will add that next time I sit down to do some modelling! Thank you Paul! And my attempt at soldering JP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allegheny1600 Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Exquisite work on those links, Jack! My goodness, you'll be hard pushed to better that but just keep going at this rate and who knows where you'll end up! Really enjoyable watching your progress. Cheers, John E. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Love those links David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Very impressed with your modelling skills but I see you've now offered the Cattle and Open wagons in the classified ads ! I've sent you a PM regarding your advert as I would be interested in adding them to my wagon fleet. I can't really be more complimentary than that ! I don't think the issue with the incorrectly located V-hanger is insurmountable, as although it's probably too late to remove the incorrectly located one (although some very careful work with a scalpel and slitting / grinding disc would remove the majority of it) adding an additional one in the correct location should be possible if the joint between the brake lever and the linking bar can be broken, it may also mean damaging the brake lever and fitting a new brake lever as well but generally the ABS plastic that Parkside use is strong and flexible enough to allow the joint to be 'fatigued', opening up the hole. I would probably not worry about the extra one as it's not visible from most viewing angles or at distance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 14, 2013 Author Share Posted March 14, 2013 Very impressed with your modelling skills but I see you've now offered the Cattle and Open wagons in the classified ads ! I've sent you a PM regarding your advert as I would be interested in adding them to my wagon fleet. I can't really be more complimentary than that ! I don't think the issue with the incorrectly located V-hanger is insurmountable, as although it's probably too late to remove the incorrectly located one (although some very careful work with a scalpel and slitting / grinding disc would remove the majority of it) adding an additional one in the correct location should be possible if the joint between the brake lever and the linking bar can be broken, it may also mean damaging the brake lever and fitting a new brake lever as well but generally the ABS plastic that Parkside use is strong and flexible enough to allow the joint to be 'fatigued', opening up the hole. I would probably not worry about the extra one as it's not visible from most viewing angles or at distance. Ah yes! Very complimentary indeed! I meant to say, the parkside plastic is very tough, the lamp irons on my guards van have put up with a fair bit of handling Love those links David They were very easy to do! Exquisite work on those links, Jack! My goodness, you'll be hard pushed to better that but just keep going at this rate and who knows where you'll end up! Really enjoyable watching your progress. Cheers, John E. Thank you John! Well I dunno! Lets see shall we? Have made some progress with my Guards Van, masked everything up and sprayed it - the red is very glossy, but i was rather happy with the brown, as when mixed, it look a little to dark, but was perfect in the airbrush! Now i just need some metal blackening and the couplings will be done! I'm currently trying to find pictures of the inside / what colour the inside was. Will finish spraying tomorrow, then another coat on the rails, varnish and light weathering to complete! Opinions always welcomed. Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 "Opinions always welcomed." I think you may safely call yourself a Wagonmaster! David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeg Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 Jack, looking good, the inside coulour was brown lover with cream upper for most of the SR brakes. The red is far to bright and needs a coat of dirty black tinners to tone it down as they got very dirty in use and sometimes looked almost the same colour as the sides a mid brown which you seem to have got spot on. Looking forward to more pictures! regards mike g Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 15, 2013 Author Share Posted March 15, 2013 "Opinions always welcomed." I think you may safely call yourself a Wagonmaster! David Maybe? One more to make sure? Jack, looking good, the inside coulour was brown lover with cream upper for most of the SR brakes. The red is far to bright and needs a coat of dirty black tinners to tone it down as they got very dirty in use and sometimes looked almost the same colour as the sides a mid brown which you seem to have got spot on. Looking forward to more pictures! regards mike g Thank you, I has assumed it would be cream somewhere. As for the red, I think the lighting in my room at night makes bright colours look really bright, this red was particularly glossy however. The morning I managed to paint the other end, and add the transfers, these ones are not very crisp, which is a shame. Nor are they (yes I measured) very straight, I did however get over this because when it it weathered it will be very mucky. Now I need to see if I can put together something to go on the works plate. This whole move to 7mm has been an amazing learning curve, especially as I was gifted with an airbrush at the same time, so mastering that has too been a test. Still needs couplings, Blackening fluid is on its way, after that all that is needed is some tactful gluing for the glazing. I noticed that the chassis did not sit flat on all four wheels - (a mistake when building I assume), so I added two small blocks of plasticard and now they are nearly invisible. Also added a weight in the center, to give the mainly plastic wagon, some weight. And finally; the only internal detailing, until a guard and some lamps arrive, is the brake standard I made from wire and thin plasticard strips rolled up. In subsequent posts I shall let the pictures do the talking, Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephenashton Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 Jack Some nice builds here. Do you have a photo of the underside of your brake van, please? I've been caught by the O Gauge bug (not a bad thing) and am building the Connoisseur Models BR Brake Van and I'm a little disappointed by the omission of the brake linkages. The model includes the yokes, but no more ... Thanks in advance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 15, 2013 Author Share Posted March 15, 2013 Jack Some nice builds here. Do you have a photo of the underside of your brake van, please? I've been caught by the O Gauge bug (not a bad thing) and am building the Connoisseur Models BR Brake Van and I'm a little disappointed by the omission of the brake linkages. The model includes the yokes, but no more ... Thanks in advance. It's contagious, I swear! I do have such pictures, Pm inbound! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Siddall Posted March 17, 2013 Share Posted March 17, 2013 That is one seriously nice looking and superbly finished model Jack... and if those details are your first attempts at soldering well, what can I say ;-) David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share Posted March 17, 2013 Thank you David, I was thinking about ordering a stove to go in there too. I can see how this kit would be much easier to build in brass. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 22, 2013 Author Share Posted March 22, 2013 Small update while I wait for something new. Decided to have a look at my 00 Pillbox and realized that I hadn't put the rain-strips on the roof, and the kit didn't cater for the brake guides. So I soon set about adding the rain-strips from microstrip and making my own brake guides from some brass rod. I also got around to adding the glazing to the doors and the duckets. Until next time Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 25, 2013 Author Share Posted March 25, 2013 My blackening fluid finally arrived so, I guess, the brakevan is finished! Here are the blackened couplings Any tips for using the fluid? Do I dilute it, I just dipped the couplings into the bottle and then into water when i thought they were quite black enough. Hopefully there should be more in a few days. Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 Hello Jack, Half the fun with 'O gauge' is fitting the extras from scratch, great stuff, keep the pictures coming.. George.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 25, 2013 Author Share Posted March 25, 2013 Hello Jack, Half the fun with 'O gauge' is fitting the extras from scratch, great stuff, keep the pictures coming.. George.. One might say that for you, that's all the fun! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 My blackening fluid finally arrived so, I guess, the brakevan is finished! Here are the blackened couplings Any tips for using the fluid? Do I dilute it, I just dipped the couplings into the bottle and then into water when i thought they were quite black enough. Hopefully there should be more in a few days. Jack Good evening Jack, ( well it's evening over in our hemisphere ). Regarding the chemical blackening, I use it neat and once your happy with the colouration you dip the parts in water to neutralise the chemical. I usually blacken the couplings, buffer heads and the wheels. I blacken the front and back of the wheel rims and then buff up the treads which gives them a colouration similar the polished steel. A bit like this, but not the best of pictures :- http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/gallery/image/18496-p1050127jpg/ ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 26, 2013 Author Share Posted March 26, 2013 Good evening Jack, ( well it's evening over in our hemisphere ). Regarding the chemical blackening, I use it neat and once your happy with the colouration you dip the parts in water to neutralise the chemical. I usually blacken the couplings, buffer heads and the wheels. I blacken the front and back of the wheel rims and then buff up the treads which gives them a colouration similar the polished steel. A bit like this, but not the best of pictures :- http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/gallery/image/18496-p1050127jpg/ ATB, Martyn. Well then good evening to you too Martyn! Yes I found that using it neat was just easier. I only wish now, that i'd got some blackening fluid for solder and for steel! That chassis really does look very good I simply can't wait to get on with a locomotive! All in due time though! In other news a packet from roxey arrived today, containing some wheels and some screw links. Still waiting on a box from gladiator though! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 Those of you who like to blacken couplings obviously don't have to put up with the Warley Show NEC lighting ( utterly hopeless, a sodium street light would be brighter ). People setting off flashguns don't help ! I keep my couplings fairly shiny so I can see them in the dark - otherwise I have to reach for a torch . I do paint my wheel rims but just use a OOO grade fine artists brush and Humbrol / Precision / Railmatch paint of appropriate colour, wiping the excess off with a cotton bud whilst still wet. But definitely a good idea to keep wheel treads polished - nothing worse than wiping the track clean with a meths soaked cloth only to see it getting covered in a smear of paint as the show progresses. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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