RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted March 26, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 26, 2013 Well then good evening to you too Martyn! Yes I found that using it neat was just easier. I only wish now, that i'd got some blackening fluid for solder and for steel! That chassis really does look very good I simply can't wait to get on with a locomotive! All in due time though! In other news a packet from roxey arrived today, containing some wheels and some screw links. Still waiting on a box from gladiator though! Are those working screw links?? They look like they should work! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 27, 2013 Author Share Posted March 27, 2013 Those of you who like to blacken couplings obviously don't have to put up with the Warley Show NEC lighting ( utterly hopeless, a sodium street light would be brighter ). People setting off flashguns don't help ! I keep my couplings fairly shiny so I can see them in the dark - otherwise I have to reach for a torch . I do paint my wheel rims but just use a OOO grade fine artists brush and Humbrol / Precision / Railmatch paint of appropriate colour, wiping the excess off with a cotton bud whilst still wet. But definitely a good idea to keep wheel treads polished - nothing worse than wiping the track clean with a meths soaked cloth only to see it getting covered in a smear of paint as the show progresses. Yes, this one is only partly blackened, and the lighting in my house is better than a 'sodium streetlamp' Are those working screw links?? They look like they should work! Yes they are, they are the slaters screw-links, very fiddly to put together, but worth it! I think they are brilliant! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 I've lost count of the times I've tried to grab hold of a vacuum pipe instead of a coupling - tempted to get one of those lamps that you wear round your head but I think I'd get some mocking looks from my fellow layout operators. We developed something called the 'Leamington Stick' which is basically a mini torch with a bent piece of wire attached but I prefer tweezers ( which eventually remove the blackening anyway) as the wire hook is too flexible to pull the spring. Those look like Slaters couplings to me ( memo to self, must get on and assemble the 10 or so packs I have ). Worth putting a blob of solder on the end of the thread to stop them unwinding completely - nothing worse than having to try to re-thread one under show conditions especially if it's partly attached to a coach beneath a corridor connection and it's the one with the anti-clockwise thread ! I get stressed out doing one on the worktop, usually after spending half an hour trying to turn the anticlockwise threaded screw in a clockwise direction and wondering why it refuses to engage. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted March 27, 2013 Author Share Posted March 27, 2013 I've lost count of the times I've tried to grab hold of a vacuum pipe instead of a coupling - tempted to get one of those lamps that you wear round your head but I think I'd get some mocking looks from my fellow layout operators. We developed something called the 'Leamington Stick' which is basically a mini torch with a bent piece of wire attached but I prefer tweezers ( which eventually remove the blackening anyway) as the wire hook is too flexible to pull the spring. Those look like Slaters couplings to me ( memo to self, must get on and assemble the 10 or so packs I have ). Worth putting a blob of solder on the end of the thread to stop them unwinding completely - nothing worse than having to try to re-thread one under show conditions especially if it's partly attached to a coach beneath a corridor connection and it's the one with the anti-clockwise thread ! I get stressed out doing one on the worktop, usually after spending half an hour trying to turn the anticlockwise threaded screw in a clockwise direction and wondering why it refuses to engage. You should start a thread! I'm sure the population of RM would love to see your collection! I have not yet experienced the pains of prototypical coupling, but i'm sure I will. I'm not sure if you can see, but I added a small amount of solder to the ends of the thread, to, as you quite rightly stated, stop the shackles coming off, and soldered the tension bar in place. They really are a test of skill and patience to build, but quite worth it in the end. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted April 2, 2013 Author Share Posted April 2, 2013 The Brass Saga Having today taken the delivery of my first brass kit, which had substantially more weight to it than a plastic one. I decided to get on with it. But having no real experience with brass or with soldering, this was never going to be easy. Unfortunately what followed was pure disaster and I found myself eating the remnants of left over lindt bunnies, gently sobbing. Well the last part isn't so true. But it didn't go well. I never expected this to be easy, but it didn't look to be this hard! This is all ive gotten on with. Can anyone give any advice as to why i'm getting such bad results/what i might be doing wrong? Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 Jack, Hi, Do not despair; not such a bad result for an early attempt – and more than recoverable. From looking at your photos, it seems that you have not applied enough heat to allow the solder to flow; perhaps you were in too much of a hurry to remove the iron, or your iron is not sufficiently powerful enough to cope with the job – but I suspect you were too quick off the mark with removing your iron. I’d start where you can do no real damage (at the top of a brake hanger, for example), apply some more flux (Carr’s Green Label or equivalent) and go in with the iron and leave it there until the solder is truly liquid and has flowed all around the joint, which is very satisfying. There’s load been written about soldering – most of it very helpful, some not so – but there is no single, correct way; just practise until you find out what works for you but keep in mind that, for a sound joint, you need: cleanliness (abrade any tarnish + flux) heat (plenty of it at the correct temperature for the solder that you are using) patience (allow the heat to do its job to allow the solder to flow), and practice (its a life skill – well it is for us!) Hope this helps, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajt Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 That's not so bad. Put some more flux on, leave the iron on longer, those blobs should flow. You can redo joins if you need to, or reposition stuff while the solder is molten. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted April 3, 2013 Author Share Posted April 3, 2013 Jack, Hi, Do not despair; not such a bad result for an early attempt – and more than recoverable. From looking at your photos, it seems that you have not applied enough heat to allow the solder to flow; perhaps you were in too much of a hurry to remove the iron, or your iron is not sufficiently powerful enough to cope with the job – but I suspect you were too quick off the mark with removing your iron. I’d start where you can do no real damage (at the top of a brake hanger, for example), apply some more flux (Carr’s Green Label or equivalent) and go in with the iron and leave it there until the solder is truly liquid and has flowed all around the joint, which is very satisfying. There’s load been written about soldering – most of it very helpful, some not so – but there is no single, correct way; just practise until you find out what works for you but keep in mind that, for a sound joint, you need: cleanliness (abrade any tarnish + flux) heat (plenty of it at the correct temperature for the solder that you are using) patience (allow the heat to do its job to allow the solder to flow), and practice (its a life skill – well it is for us!) Hope this helps, David That's not so bad. Put some more flux on, leave the iron on longer, those blobs should flow. You can redo joins if you need to, or reposition stuff while the solder is molten. Thanks guys Very helpful and perhaps emphasizes the fact that I need a better iron. I will pour over some guides and practice some more when I get the new one. In the mean time that wagon will be put on the back-burner. Today Arrived a Scale Signal Supply SR1 Signal, now I know nothing about signals. I'm going to be gluing this one as I think I can get a better result with glue and many of the parts are very fine and will require awkward holding. Something which I don't feel to confident attempting with a shoddy soldering iron. 'Scuse the poor pic, using my iphone at the moment! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Jack, Serioulsy, please think again about using glue! Because the parts are so small, all the more reason for soldering them so that they stay put. I have built one of these excellent kits and I'm afraid that you'll be dissappointed if you glue it; it's almost the kit perfectly designed for soldering. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Hello Jack, Have you got any pieces of scrap etch laying around ? Because it's best to practice on some scrap rather than learn the art on a wagon, that way you are in no rush, and you will start to get a feel as to how the solder reacts to the heat. If you are going to get a new soldering iron, I would recommend going for a solder station where you can adjust the heat for various jobs. I know the solder stations are not cheap but my Antex is over 25 years old and still going strong, so I have had my monies worth. Anymore questions just fire away , within a week you will wonder why you where so worried about this so called " black art " it's a piece of cake honest. ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Siddall Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Nil desperandum fella, you'll crack it... though in my case I'm still convinced that successful soldering involves invoking some kind of voodoo ;-) I will admit however that a long chat with the chap from Eileen's Emporium, scrupulous cleaning of whatever I'm trying to join and experimenting with several types of flux has resulted in a couple of joints where the solder actually started to flow... sometimes even 'before' my fingers started to singe or the surface on which the piece was resting started to smoulder ;-) David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stephenashton Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Jack - From one brass newbie to another: practice. Either buy some brass sheet or use spare etch from your kit. Then the other three rules follow: 1. Cleanliness 2. Heat (I use a 40 watt iron) 3. Don't rush each joint. The other big thing to remember is that (after practicing on small bits of brass and getting confident) a large piece of brass will act as a heat sink. It will require more time. It may need a more powerful iron. Persevere. It'll be worth it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Hello Jack, l was lucky to have a guy in our club who could solder anything, and l said l wish l could do that, next thing l knew he came round one morning and stayed for about 3 hours, and by the time he left l could solder, like martyn says just get loads of scrap brass, nickle silver and white metal scraps and play around you will get there in the promise. i learned (4) things that day... (1) Green Scotchbright scouring pads (for cleaning the brass) (2) Fry's power-flux (white plumbers flux) (3) 145' degree solder (70' degree solder for white metal) (4) HEAT 50watt soldering station. Regards georgeT Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 Thanks guys! It is very encouraging! After reading your advice, i've identified why I got a bad result 1: Bad Iron 2: Generic flux + solder 3: Did not clean the joins 4: Was too quick off the join So after Isambarduk pleaded I solder the signal, I tried it, still using my not so good iron, which seemed to work. Also to restore my modelling mojo I dedcided to make up a quick plastikard lamp bracket, because the cast brass one isn't that good - this one isn't either and is only mk1. I did just realize I put the wrong arm on the signal, so I'll be replacing it. I did forget to mention (amongst all the complaining) Just how fun this brass stuff is! Sorry about the bad pics, I'll be back to the proper camera tomorrow! Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 Evening guys! Or, is it morning. It won't be the first time i've said something along these lines, but after fixing the arm one thing lead to another, and come this morning, this happened! It's really not that great. But I am learning, which is the key part. I will go down to the library today, and check out some books on black magic/vodoo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 Well, Jack, I would say that, in the very short time that you say that you have been doing this (including soldering), you have come a long way - a lot further than many do in half a lifetime; you're going to be a guru very soon at this rate! Just keep going David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Warspite Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 That is a lot better than my soldering attempts. Well done! Must learn to solder, must learn to solder, must learn to solder ......... Stephen Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted April 5, 2013 Author Share Posted April 5, 2013 Thank you David, Thank you for pushing the idea of soldering the signal, was really enjoyable. in the very short time that you say that you have been doing this I swear i've no outside experience, other than whats shown on this thread and i'm still learning. That is a lot better than my soldering attempts. Well done! Must learn to solder, must learn to solder, must learn to solder ......... Stephen Haha! Thanks Stephen! There is a-lot of good advice posted above about mistakes that are easy to make, and ways not to make them! Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 "I swear i've no outside experience," No, fair enough - I did believe you! David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 Hi Jack Looks very good for a first attempt, you'll only get better so keep at it. Jim of Connoiseur models does a good booklet that will help you when building in brass. you can either buy the booklet from him or download it and print it off, take a look I'm sure it will help. http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Print%20Off%20FAQ%20Booklet%20pdf.pdf regards Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted April 8, 2013 Author Share Posted April 8, 2013 "I swear i've no outside experience," No, fair enough - I did believe you! David I will keep practicing and then you'll believe me less! Hi Jack Looks very good for a first attempt, you'll only get better so keep at it. Jim of Connoiseur models does a good booklet that will help you when building in brass. you can either buy the booklet from him or download it and print it off, take a look I'm sure it will help. http://www.jimmcgeown.com/Print%20Off%20FAQ%20Booklet%20pdf.pdf regards Pete Pete, Thank you very much. I have taken my time pouring over that manual. it's honestly the most useful thing i've read, Covers so many things! Interesting to note that Jim does all his painting without an airbrush! Thers just a small update today. I made some progress with the signal, and am seeing if there are chisel tips for my iron, I can tell you where I went wrong... ... I forgot to tin the tip! D'oh! It's not done yet, And it will stay stationary here, just on display. I think a fantastic point was raised. Being that if later on I want to take it apart and re-try, I can! Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted April 8, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 8, 2013 Very nice modelling chap (although to my eyes the grass is a tad bright ;-p ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 I will keep practicing and then you'll believe me less! Pete, Thank you very much. I have taken my time pouring over that manual. it's honestly the most useful thing i've read, Covers so many things! Interesting to note that Jim does all his painting without an airbrush! Thers just a small update today. I made some progress with the signal, and am seeing if there are chisel tips for my iron, I can tell you where I went wrong... ... I forgot to tin the tip! D'oh! It's not done yet, And it will stay stationary here, just on display. I think a fantastic point was raised. Being that if later on I want to take it apart and re-try, I can! Jack It's all looking good Jack. You just need a post cap on top of that signal and it'll be spot on! Keep up the good work Jon F. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 It's all looking good Jack. You just need a post cap on top of that signal and it'll be spot on! Keep up the good work Jon F. Working on it as we speak Jon (aka Signal-master) Very nice modelling chap (although to my eyes the grass is a tad bright ;-p ) It's just a little test piece, it's not that bright just looks it with the lights on! Could use some improvement though! I'll head out tomorrow and get some sawdust and some more pva, to make ballast. In the mean-time here's a fence I knocked up last night. Wonder if the fence owner will ever get around to replacing the broken post..... Jack Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack P Posted October 1, 2013 Author Share Posted October 1, 2013 By the end of the night I hope to have an update - I do apologize for my absence! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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