Modelling a 2mm Finescale Duchess

[Nig H]

In this topic, I intend to show some of the stages in building an LMS Duchess in 2mm finescale, using an etched kit. I'll show progress to various stages mainly with photos of bits built to date. To start with, a pic of the etch and castings.






And here's a pic of City of London, almost finished.



I will post pics of progress to date soon.

Nig H

[Horsetan]

A thing of beauty and a joy forever.

[The Nth Degree]

I'm really looking forward to seeing this come together. That's an amazing-looking etch!

[Nig H]

Here's a pic showing the loco and tender frames, bogie and pony truck, gearbox, and bits of valve gear and motion parts. I joined the union link to the combination lever asap because the union link is very small and easily lost. The 'Simpson' springing wire is just visible on the front axle of the tender frames. Its also used on the front two axles of the loco. The loco chassis look a bit murky as it is part primed with some left-over primer from another paint job.

I'm now doing the slide bar support/ motion bracket, then the cylinder assembly.

 

Nig H

[Guest jim s-w]

Great stuff

 

I dont see a boiler in the parts pictures. What is supplied for it?

 

Cheers

 

Jim

[Horsetan]

....I dont see a boiler in the parts pictures. What is supplied for it?

Resin moulding?

[Nig H]

 

Great stuff

 

I dont see a boiler in the parts pictures. What is supplied for it?

 

Cheers

 

Jim

 Hello Jim,

 

I had a white metal casting produced for the firebox/ boiler and smokebox. I'll try to include a pic in the next update.

 

Regards,

 

Nigel

[Black Sheep]

Where's the streamline casing

Very nice model judging by the completed picture

[Nig H]

As mentioned above, here is a pic of the firebox/ boiler/ smokebox, showing the white metal casting and the master. Also is a pic of the cylinder assembly before attaching the cylinder sides. Sorry the pics aren't the cleaarest ever.

 

 

 

 

 

The loco and tender frames, wheels, and bogie are now painted, and all wheels apart from the loco drivers now in place.

 

Nig H

[Allegheny1600]

Beautiful workmanship Nigel!

I wish we could get "Fencehouses" down again so you could run your Duchess again!

Cheers,

John E.

[Nig H]

Thanks John, but they are working on their own fleet of Pacifics so I may not get another chance!

 

Here are more pictures of progress to date. The first shows the loco frames with the completed cylinder and motion assembled. The cylinder unit and motion bracket are placed in the frames and these act as a jig for soldering the separate units together. Then the various bits of valve gear are attached. Mounting the combination lever over the radius rod is fiddly with the latter still loose so I attached the front end of the radius rods with a length of n/s wire going from the valve spindle box on one side to the other. Then the expansion links can be fitted and the middle of the radius rods soldered in place, so that the combination levers can then be attached more easily.

 

 

 

Here is the cylinder and motion assembly.

 

 

I'll post some pics of the tender body soon.

 

Nig H

[richbrummitt]

Hi Nigel,

 

I've missed the part where the cylinder unit and motion bracket don't short the frames. Maybe you just didn't get to it yet. Do you cut them down the middle once fitted or is there some thin PCB sandwiched in there for insulation?

 

Thanks,

 

Richard.

[Nig H]

 

Hi Nigel,

 

I've missed the part where the cylinder unit and motion bracket don't short the frames. Maybe you just didn't get to it yet. Do you cut them down the middle once fitted or is there some thin PCB sandwiched in there for insulation?

 

Thanks,

 

Richard.

 

 

Hello Richard,

 

Yes, I haven't isolated the two sides yet. There is a slab of PCB under the motion bracket, so I cut along the top rear section from front to rear to isolate that bit. The section between the cylinders contains another big lump of PCB with extra shim to fill the gap, and I will cut round this section to isolate the cylinders. I leave these operations until I am happy with the running of the motion in case the slide bars (or anything else)need adjusting. It could be disasterous if one half of the assembly came adrift during the tweaking and fettling adjustments!

 

Regards,

 

Nig H

[Nig H]

Some pics showing the drive shaft assembly. The ends of the U/J are from the etch (see first post above, the bits just above the balance weights) soldered round a length of 10 thou steel wire. The etched parts need to be filed to a taper towards the middle to give more clearance on curves.

 

 

 

 

Here are some pics of the tender. Probably the hardest bits are forming the curve along the tender sides, and building the ladder. Here is shot of a Stanier 9 ton tender, the process is the same for the 10 ton type.

 

The bend is partly pre-formed before the side is attached to the footplate, then the top section eased round and hard down onto the bulkheads with the scrap block of wood, and the sides soldered to the bulkheads from inside the coal space.

 

The other awkward bit is the ladder at the back. This shows how small the ladder is.

 

and here is the ladder in the jig. I don't know why the pic turned out blue.

 

The most exciting bit is probably trimming the 8 thou steel wire used for the rungs flush with the ladder sides using a sanding disc in a mini drill. Its a good way to check the quality of the soldering!

 

And the virtually completed tender. The axleboxes are painted first then glued on.

 

Nig H

[Nig H]

Hi,

 

Here's some pics of progress to date.

First is one showing a modification to the link betwen the loco and tender. A short bar soldered across the link to restrict the sideways movement of the link when running backwards. This stops the tender being pushed to one side, causing the u/j to misbehave.

 

 

Here are some of the front platform. I found it easier to add steps, grab handles, and lamp irons before the frames were united with the front platform section. That side step needs looking at, I think.

 

The front platform assembly will be attached to the main platform later, as it just gets in the way if attached now.

 

Nig H

[Nig H]

Hello,

 

Here's another update. There are a couple of pics showing something being done (sort of), but most the time its hard to photograph and work at the same time.

 

Here's the virtually completed front platform.

 

And some shots of the main platform.

 

This shows the cab inner layer held while the cab seat is bent out.

 

Holding the cab side overlay in place to solder to inner layer. I usually use two pegs.

 

 

The cab now bent approximately to shape.

 

And the cab soldered in place on the footplate. Its vital to check positioning and alignment whilst tack soldered only.

 

 

Hope this is of interest.

 

Nig H

[Allegheny1600]

Excellent work Nigel!

You must have the patience of a saint and the eyesight of a hawk! Plus jolly good photography skills to boot!

Cheers,

John E.

[Horsetan]

Really good stuff there. Only wish we had this etched option in 4mm scale.

[Nig H]

Thanks for the comments. Actually my eyesight is poor and I have to do most work using a lamp and magnifier. This is the fourth Duchess I've worked on including the first test etch, so I think I'm getting the hang of it to some extent.

 

Someone asked about producing my etch for the Princess Royal class in 4mm, but its not simply a case of scaling it up and etching on thicket material. The 2mm etches are drawn taking into account 2mm scale clearances over driving wheels, standard split frame pick-up, and the availability of 2mm parts such as motors, gears and wheels. I have no modelling experience in 4mm so I wouldn't know where to start amending the artwork. It would be the same for the Duchess etch.

 

Nig H

[Horsetan]

In any case, Judith Edge already offers a Princess Royal etch for 4mm - it's so useful, I bought two!

[ozzyo]

Nice.

[Nig H]

 

In any case, Judith Edge already offers a Princess Royal etch for 4mm - it's so useful, I bought two!

 Hello,

 

Yes I have been following the relevant topic - some fantastic modelling shown. How are you getting on with your etches?

 

Here are some more pics, showing work on the smoke deflectors. The first pic shows the witness line of the line scribed on the inside of the deflector where the upper section is bent over.

 

You need to score the line carefully without going through the 5 thou thick half etch metal!

 

Then the bends formed.

 

The cups inside the hand holds are made from old Association axle bearing cups. They need to be reduced in height so are soldered in four small holes drilled inside a bit of scrap, then filed so most of the parallel section of the axle cups disappears.

 

 

The deflectors with axle cups soldered in place. They still look big in the pic.

 

 

Nig H

[dajt]

Very impressive

[LYH45]

Awesome

 

May i inquire what solder you are using

 

Thanks in advance

[Nig H]

Hi LYH45,

 

I mainly use some Alphagrillo solder. I've had a 0.5kg reel for years and still have plenty left. On the label it says, 'alloy L-Sn60Pb F-SW26 2.2'. That means little to me, but I suspect its a fairly standard solder. I use London Road 12% phosphoric acid flux usually, with a 25W Antex iron. I also have a 100g coffe jar of solder paste. My Dad got it me almost 40 years ago. I now mix it with Carrs Black flux. Hope this helps.

 

Nig H