3 way points without motors?

[cbeagleowner]

Hi All,

 

I've got 3x 3 way points (Peco code 100 electrofrog) on my layout. I've worked out that you need switches to make them work without shorting, but I'm not sure exaclty which ones, because I don't really want to use point motors. Is is possible to use a 3 way point without motorising is? 

 

Thanks in advance

Rich

[Colin_McLeod]

Yes it works, but you are relying on the point blades to make good contact in order that the power is correctly routed.

[Chris Turnbull]

Yes it is. The Ely club is using unpowered 3-way points in the fiddle yard of our new layout. The switching is done by micro switches (with rollers ref N97AQ) from Maplins operated by scratch-built extensions to the tie bars that act as plungers. As the point is thrown the plunger acts on the roller which changes the polarity of the common crossings. The plunger is a piece of square brass that slides in a square brass tube that is, in turn, soldered to a brass baseplate to which the micro switch is also fixed. The baseplate is screwed to the baseboard. The end of the plunger that acts on the roller is chamfered at 45 degrees.

Chris Turnbull

[cbeagleowner]

Thanks for the replies guys. Is it possible to do it without having to make your own stuff?

[RFS]

Yes it works, but you are relying on the point blades to make good contact in order that the power is correctly routed.

This is not correct for the 3-way electrofrog points in both code 75 and code 100.  The frogs are electrically isolated on these turnouts and have to be supplied with power from a switch.  This can be done either with the traditional point motor + switch, or via a manual method as described by Chris Turnbull above.

 

You could use an SPDT switch for each frog - either standalone on a panel somewhere, or a microswitch located next to the tie-bar so that the tie-bar operates it.  Not pretty but OK for a storage yard.

[Ron Solly]

The code 100 3 way points - if using a manual method like a  lever frame or slideswitch that locks, you have to operate  the points in a specific order as the blades are interlaced &  if you attempt to them out of sequence, you can cause mechanical problems.

[Colin_McLeod]

This is not correct for the 3-way electrofrog points in both code 75 and code 100.  The frogs are electrically isolated on these turnouts and have to be supplied with power from a switch.  This can be done either with the traditional point motor + switch, or via a manual method as described by Chris Turnbull above.

 

You could use an SPDT switch for each frog - either standalone on a panel somewhere, or a microswitch located next to the tie-bar so that the tie-bar operates it.  Not pretty but OK for a storage yard.

 

Apologies for misleading. I had not read the OP carefully enough and based my reply on my own PECO  electrofrog simple turnouts whereas my 3 way is insulfrog.

[Chris Turnbull]

Thanks for the replies guys. Is it possible to do it without having to make your own stuff?

I'm not aware of anything commercially available but that doesn't mean there isn't.

 

If you mount the microswitch such that it acts directly on the tiebar you will find that the little spring in the Peco point is not strong enough to operate the microswitch and hold the switch blade against the stock rail. What you need is something that slides against the roller to operate the microswitch whilst not stopping the switch blades from fully throwing.

 

Chris Turnbull

[cbeagleowner]

Thanks for your help guys. I begin to wonder if the best solution is to either just go for the PL13 as in the wiring diagram, or just to go for the point motor...

[RFS]

Thanks for your help guys. I begin to wonder if the best solution is to either just go for the PL13 as in the wiring diagram, or just to go for the point motor...

The PL-13 is designed to sit on top of the PL-10 point motor so you'd need both in this case.

[Suzie]

Use lever type microswitches which bear much more lightly on the end of the tiebar. As with all things point related, careful setup of the microswitches is key to getting them to work reliably without interference to the point.

 

I use them all the time in hidden areas and the easiest method to get them set up is to get the microswitch roughly in position and hold it down with your finger while operating the point to make sure that the point stays in place, and listen for the click from the microswitch as it operates. When you are happy fix it down with one screw tight enough to just hold it in place and then check again. You can make minor adjustments to the operating point by rotating the microswitch about the screw. The microswitch should operate when the point is midway ideally. Once you are happy fit the other screw to hold it in position. Small round head brass woodscrews are ideal to hold the microswitches in position.

 

The Peco spring fixings are often a bit loose and will usually need to be tightened up before you start to ensure that the tiebar is held in position.