kintbury jon Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 Don't tempt me! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted April 4, 2013 Author Share Posted April 4, 2013 I've come to a stumbling point regarding the CEP. I have contacted a modelmaking company asking for perspex windows to glaze the unit. The cost is coming back at about £45 in total. This seems a lot to me - perhaps i'm being a bit naive over this. The etched frames came in at just over £20 so I assumed the windows would come in at a similar price. Any thoughts or suggestions? On a positive note, I have converted the TCK into a TBCK using the etched sides. Looks much better than my bodged job on 1500! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Hi Jon, I have just seen your last post re. glazing. It will come as no consolation to hear that I was quoted £55.00 last year for 4 CIG glazing, so even more expensive than for a 4 CEP. Are the window frames you have had etched not wide enough to fit hand-cut glazing? If you cut the glazing to size and round the corners, surely any small inaccuracies will be hidden behind the frames. How would the perspex window panes be fixed to the coach sides if you went for that option? Flush -glazing is harder to fit than the 'glued-on-behind-the-side' method. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 (edited) Thanks for your reply Colin. I could fit some hand-made glazing but the time taken to do this puts me off the idea. I am wondering whether I could use the original glazing to do the lower, main part of the window and then cut and shape something for the hopper vents. I did wonder whether I could make use of some cut SE finecast glazing. I have a few spare pieces that I may mess around with. I'd certainly get more satisfaction out of doing it myself for very little money! Was the CEPs glazing tinted by the way. I wonder whether I could make use of some Airfix mark 2 glazing? Edited April 9, 2013 by kintbury jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Hi Jon, Times are tight and money is short, but are you going to save much by not having the bespoke glazing made for you?! The idea of joining the original glazing for the lower part and joining on something plain above does sound like it would be worth a try. At least fixing that to the body sides would be easy. I do have some spare Bachmann Mk.1 glazing (not 4 CEP stuff though) - if you need any (can't seem to give it away!) All the best, Colin 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 My plan with the refurbished CEP was to try and keep the costs down to a minimum. The frames had to be bought but I reckon it's worth having a go with doing the glazing myself. I'll have a try with a couple of glazing parts. I've got a full set of CEP glazing which seems a waste not to use, especially if you say that it's not worth anything! Cheers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyddrail Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Jon, Refurb CEP glazing was tinted. I did my MTK versions with Hurst tinted glazing packs. Good luck with your model. Cheers. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 My plan with the refurbished CEP was to try and keep the costs down to a minimum. The frames had to be bought but I reckon it's worth having a go with doing the glazing myself. I'll have a try with a couple of glazing parts. I've got a full set of CEP glazing which seems a waste not to use, especially if you say that it's not worth anything! Cheers. Hi Jon, What I meant was that I have offered the glazing to several RMwebbers and nobody needs it! It is interesting to compare the cost of bespoke glazing for £55.00 with the price of an entire 4 CEP at £89.00. The latter figure was coincidentally the same as the price I was quoted for replacement bodyshells from Bachmann several years ago. I made the fatal error of giving my 4 CEP a sprayed-on wash of dilute black paint and white spirit which cracked the glazing. The Hurst tinted glazing packs mentioned by Paul must be the best solution, so long as their dimensions match Bachmann's. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted April 10, 2013 Author Share Posted April 10, 2013 Paul, thanks for the idea. Is this what I would need? http://www.shop.hurstmodels.com/tgl000-tinted-glazing-material-409-p.asp I assume it's a case of cutting and sticking on top of the current glazing. Colin - sorry, misquoted you there! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 Just to say, the projects are on hold probably until July as I'm a bit busy at the moment! I have got as far as spraying the EPB shells in NSE dark blue. They will have white added to them next. The CEP bodies are awaiting the conversion of the DMBSO's into DMSO's. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted June 15, 2013 Author Share Posted June 15, 2013 (edited) Evening all, I have found some time and have been working on the refurbished CEP. DMBSOs are now DMSOs and the bodies have been painted in Jaffa Cake. It's not the best of paint jobs by me but it will do. I opted to hand paint the bodies like I did with 1500 so that it will match it (and 9005). The DMSO on the motorized chassis. Compared to 1500 shows that my orange stripe is not as wide this time! A little touching up is required, may do so tomorrow... Edited June 15, 2013 by kintbury jon 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted July 17, 2013 Author Share Posted July 17, 2013 Afternoon all. Have gone a bit flat with both of the projects. Am debating whether I want to continue with either of them at the moment as i've got a few projects on the go at the moment and these are units I don't especially need. They will probably go in long term storage but if anyone wishes to continue with where i've got to, please let me know! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Welly Posted July 17, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 17, 2013 No worries Jon, you have made a good start with it but it's best to put it aside if you don't fancy pushing on with it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Hi Jon, Don't give up! Working on a 4-car EMU is a major undertaking. I'm sure you will come back to it again one day soon. I had a break of two months in the middle of my 4 CIG project last year. Sometimes you just need to take a step back for a while. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 I just brought a. 4 CIG, for £89 it's rude not too... How bizarre that. Bachmann s steps into E MU s have inspired me, but only because they are a bargain and ( presumably) mediocre seller ? However getting into it to fit a chip was a pain, badly thought out access to the inside by Bachmann ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 I agree with you on the chip fitting score, Rob. I have now done five 4 CEPs, two MLVs and five 2 EPBs ... all of them were pains to get into! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted July 18, 2013 Share Posted July 18, 2013 Hmmm, that's the sort of thing puts me off buying more.... Does the roof come off easily to put passengers in ? I find it really annoying when even the DCC fighting guide from trains4 U acknowledges you will break some of the plastic clips getting in......I broke one. Comeon Bachmann DCC is not a rarity anymore , work backwards from people needing to put chips in ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted July 18, 2013 Author Share Posted July 18, 2013 If you take the roof off you still won't be able to fit passengers, you need to prize off the whole body. They're fairly flexible though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 Right! A few updates. After careful thought, I decided not to continue with the EPB. This has been sold to another RMwebber who will hopefully finish off the job. In terms of the CEP, I have spent a bit of time fitting the hopper window frames to the DMSO's. I had tried this a couple of months ago on one vehicle using some Poly Cement (as it was the only thing I had in the house). It appeared to stick nicely but once it had dried the frames pinged off easily. After a visit to a hardware store earlier, I have come home with some very runny superglue that comes with its own brush to paint it on. I have gone for double gluing am happy with the outcome. Poly cement has been used to initially glue the frames to the bodysides. Once this has dried I have painted on superglue to the inside strengthening the bond between the two materials. It appears to have done the job without me doing my usual of getting glue everywhere. The photos show the outcome (and highlight the glossiness of the brown paint I used!) Comments welcome! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Welly Posted October 23, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 23, 2013 It's looking great so far! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted October 23, 2013 Author Share Posted October 23, 2013 And this evenings work, the TBCK and TSO. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted October 24, 2013 Author Share Posted October 24, 2013 Rooves are currently being sprayed to match 1500. Good opportunity to line it up with 1500 and 9005. I'm now starting to think about what running number to go for. The unit was originally 7128 so I will have a look and see what number it ended up being. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastwestdivide Posted October 24, 2013 Share Posted October 24, 2013 Like the characteristic weathering (clean cab end) on the MLV on the right! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kintbury jon Posted October 24, 2013 Author Share Posted October 24, 2013 (edited) Like the characteristic weathering (clean cab end) on the MLV on the right! Fresh from the paint shop like all my stock. Not a dead fly in sight! Edited October 24, 2013 by kintbury jon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Oldddudders Posted October 24, 2013 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 24, 2013 These are remarkable models, with a great deal of real work in them. My recollection of jaffacake is that it was overwhelmingly matt after a very short time in service - and I travelled on them every day. I think your brown in particular needs some serious flatting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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