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EddieB

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How to improve the chassis issue with the 8P, other methods may be available! Comments welcome if anything is not clear.

 

Sorry I dont have pics of it in its dismantled state but can do this with the next one!

 

First pic is the unmodified loco

15488300218_92ef97b392_c.jpg
S1670001 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr

 

This shows where the problem lies, the wheel casting is to narrow to sit in the splashers

15675277582_ebf2d16bdf_c.jpg
S1670004 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr

 

First thing to do is to remove the front bogie, rear truck and main wheels. This is done by simply unscrewing them.

Also remove the valve gear and cylinders, which may prove a little tricky but go carefully and slowly and you should be ok.

 

The front bogie needs the fixing point reducing by around 2mm, which is best done by filing it down, the same applies to the rear truck.

 

Before

15053724144_a2dbd45421_c.jpg
S1670005 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr

15054325393_aa5ec674fa_c.jpg
S1670002 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr

 

After

15651147606_093feca95c_c.jpg
S1670007 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr

15489486248_7472291538_c.jpg
S1670008 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr

 

Close up of the modified front bogie fixing

15656787346_214da2469d_c.jpg
S1680010 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr

 

The wheel casting was simply cut along its length, straight down the middle! Again go carefully with this as to not damage the casting. Doing this will allow the wheels to line up with the splashers but still sits too high.

15680506565_6c32b9b8fe_c.jpg
S1680008 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr

 

 

 

The plastic part of the chassis now needs to be modified. I did this but removing approx 2mm from the bottom with a razor saw. I also removed the section in the centre, where the fixing boss between the middle driver is, otherwise the wheels will still sit wrong,it is easy to see with the dismantled model

15680502455_7bd4d688c2_c.jpg
S1680012 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr

 

Ahead of the front drivers is an upside down L shape that will also need removing, to also allow the wheels to sit at the correct height.

15678582341_0262c5b697_c.jpg
S1680013 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr

 

When it come to putting it back together the best way I found was to superglue the wheel into the splashers and plastic chassis.

This pic shows the wheels in place.

15495708530_a22800bcfb_c.jpg
S1680009 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr

 

Put the valve gear back on the glue the cylinder in the correct position. You may need to remove the plastic fixing point from the cylinder to get them in the right place.

 

When reassembled the drivers are now at P4 gauge, as seen here on a length of P4 track! I have not yet modified the bogie or rear truck to alter the gauge, that is something I will look at.

15495718950_c409498087_c.jpg
S1680001 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr

 

Completed!

15495314307_0eb9d4cfe4_c.jpg
S1680002 by Shane Wilton, on Flickr

 

Its was all trial and error with no finesse but the end result speaks for itself. There are plenty of other improvements to be done but doing this alone puts it very near top of the league among its GBL companions

 

cheers

 

Shane

Edited by Wolf27
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I removed Princess No. 2 from her packaging this morning to find that though the tender lining is OK this side the front steps are missing (look for a spare in the parts box or a scratch build job or ignore so she will go around curves) and there is a chunk of plastic torn out of the middle of the smokebox at handrail level no rivets nearby so it will be easy to fill and will be partially hidden by the 'blinkers' anyway.

I was hoping to get a second nameplate with the name on straight for Princess no. 1, but no such luck 3 out of 4 duds, though I think one is near enough to get away with a line of gold paint on the edge . Still she will have to be renamed anyway as I gather 46203 was always green in BR days and I doubt that the BR 'ferret' and numbers can be removed neatly enough to reletter her as LMS 6203.

 

Next problem is suitable mechanisms - thoughts run to Tri-ang 0-6-0 chassis (I've got lots of these!) with the axle holes redrilled in the right place and then fit Hornby wheels and valvegear. The result will run like a s**t house door, but my H & M Powermaster has tamed worse (Hornby 0-4-0Ts for example!). There appears to be the possibilty of using the GBL bogie pony and tender sub-frame on a motorised version, by replacing the wheels - not too easy on the bogie as they are cast solid - I do have a pair from 'Coronation's however which IIRC do have separate wheels.

Edited by Il Grifone
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Asda Greenhithe provided my second 'Princess' this morning (I got the last one!) The running plate is dead straight (at least on the visible side), but the tender lining is seriously out of position. However, as she is destined to become 'Turbomotive' for which BR maroon is sadly inapplicable, this does not matter much. I am undecided whether to finish her in postwar LMS black or BR black (as Crewe turned out several Pacifics I understand - I wonder why! :scratchhead: )

 

I don't really need another 'N', but I could fit the tender* to my L1 and replace it with one from an Airfix 'Schools' (assuming GBL do a straight sided one of course).

 

Tri-ang's effort is less than perfect, but the one I have is quite reasonable, whereas the loco body moulding is cracked, so, by repainting it in BR black, I would not be damaging a 'collectable' item. The L1 is one of Tri-ang's better items, so would benefit from a little detailing.

 

Now then....I think I have spotted a little joke here!  Crewe, LNWR, Black.? ;)

 

The L1 does look good in BR Black.... :)

Edited by Sarahagain
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Hi all I'm just starting a thread on Kitbuilding and scratchbuilding on an idea to motorize the upcoming GBL T9 at a reasonable cost, Ive held it back till I knew it was viable, It might not be the answer for every one but might get you thinking out side the box. Here's the link.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92190-when-is-a-4-6-0-not-a-4-6-0-or-the-quest-for-scottish-locos/

 

                                     Regards Steve

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.....The rivets should be at the edge of the S/B as they are there to attach the end ring. It may be that some types of class 5 boilers were longer than others, there were certainly differences in firebox lengths. I think the only way to really overcome this is to file down the outer edge of the smoke box ring ....

 

The rivets should be - in this case - around the end ring, as opposed to the main smokebox moulding. If you measure the GBL Black Five smokebox plus the plug-in ring, I think you'll find it comes out at the correct scale 6'4.5"in (for all but the Ivatt-era ones), and that's why the rivets should have been moved forward to be on the circumference of the ring. If you file the ring down, then you will end up with a smokebox which is too short.

 

The Ivatt smokeboxes were a scale 4in longer (and all the Ivatt-modified engines were turned out with "long" fireboxes anyway).

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Hi all I'm just starting a thread on Kitbuilding and scratchbuilding on an idea to motorize the upcoming GBL T9 at a reasonable cost, Ive held it back till I knew it was viable, It might not be the answer for every one but might get you thinking out side the box. Here's the link.

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92190-when-is-a-4-6-0-not-a-4-6-0-or-the-quest-for-scottish-locos/

 

                                     Regards Steve

Interesting use of the B12 chassis, Steve. It's one of the easier ones to get hold of. I see no reason why your method should not work for the D11, or the Compound if one can obtain the Compound cylinder and valve gear parts. Look forward to following your work.

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I've still not received Betty and the Green Goblin.

 

Has anyone received their subscription copies yet? Or heard from GBL?

 

I spoke to those wonderfully useful people at GBL about the same issue earlier and apparently they have been delayed sending things out as they have run out of binders but couldn't tell me any more than that.

 

Gary

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Interesting use of the B12 chassis, Steve. It's one of the easier ones to get hold of. I see no reason why your method should not work for the D11, or the Compound if one can obtain the Compound cylinder and valve gear parts. Look forward to following your work.

 

 

If you're re-drilling chassis blocks to make 4-4-0's, using Hornby coupling rods as a guide,you might find the dimensions of the following Hornby coupling rods useful:

 

 

T9,Schools,Compound,D49,Edward: 40mm [scale 10']    Suitable for the D11 and T9.

 

Ex-Airfix/Dapol 2P: 38mm [scale 9'6"]  Suitable for the GBL Compound.

 

Rear half of B17: 36mm [scale 9'0"]

 

County 4-4-0,rear rod of Ex-Airfix/Dapol 4F: 34mm [scale 8'6"]   Suitable for the 'City of Truro'.

 

 

Of course,the 9' and 9'6" wheelbases are suitable for a whole host of pre-grouping loco's that could be 'bashed' from various bits'n'bobs..

 

 

 

I shall continue to watch with interest... :)

Edited by DS239
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Hmm, Blue, you say.

 

How about a renumber to 6030 BB King?

 

Seems we are continuing after #20.

Or 'The King'

Blue Suede Shoes-geddit? (I know, coat already moved to the lower peg and taken off)

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Issue 21 - a blue King!

Some Middle Crome Green will take it's rightful place very rapidly!!!

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a king ...a princess......no queen......but certainly a cathedral.........all we need now is a charming prince...

 

Joking aside I thought a class 52 western might be on the cards...note the weathering mans comments about diesels.....

 

Either way will be buying to  add to my castle now awaiting chassis......Derby/ Crewe how have I forsaken you for these western temptations....

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a king ...a princess......no queen......but certainly a cathedral.........all we need now is a charming prince...

 

Or a few Knights of the Realm, like Sir Bedivere, Sir Galahad, Sir Tristram.

 

And you can have Queen Guinevere.

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'Knight of the Black Eagle' sounds even better* (other 'Stars' are available, also as Kings, Queens, Princes and Princesses), not that I would be averse to a 'King Arthur' **.

 

Blue? Whoever heard of a 'King' in blue? (luckily only a very temporary aberration and soon corrected!)

 

* I know it's a German title, but it sounds 'cool' and would have to come in pre- WW I livery'.

 

** Just as long as it's not 'Sir Dinadan'.......

 

There's still time for a 'Western', but the 'Peak' seems to have got lost.

Edited by Il Grifone
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The Peak has never been advertised in the magazine, it was a poster here who said it was on the list. The Western looks as definite as anything is. To say again, the only loco they've advertised and then cancelled is Locomotion. The rest have been trailed and eventually appeared apart from a few, so we can be relatively confident that some will appear.

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