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That's looking really great - amazing to think this is your first time doing this. I think you said you used a B12 chassis, can you say what did you use for the cylinders and suchlike?

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Thanks!

 

The full list of parts for the chassis:

 

1) Hornby B12 chassis

2) Hornby Black 5 driving wheels (frustratingly, the axle holes in the wheels need to be reamed out to fit the B12 axles)

3) Scale Link 14mm bogie wheels

4) Bachmann O4 connecting rods and cylinders

 

Hope this helps.

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Forgot to mention, you also need the little screw from a Hornby 2P that holds the front bogie in place on that model.  This screw goes through the B12 bogie, into the little lip of metal on the B12 chassis, via a 1.2 or 1.6mm hole drilled through the spacer bar on the Bachmann cylinder block. 

 

I'm trying to work out a way to get more throw on the bogie without going for smaller bogie wheels, raising the level of the footplate or damaging the cylinders.  Think that, realistically, the only way forward is to accept it'll only go around 3rd or 4th radius curves at the minimum. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Practically finished!  Save for some final painting and a bit of weathering....

 

DSCF2007_zps7defd5fb.jpg

 

I am very happy with this result, I think it is my finest model to date.  I'd definitely go down the 3D printing route again, this perhaps opens up a route to getting a 'Sam Fay'?- time will tell!

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James, that does look very good. Perhaps the only addition would be the front coupling hook, maybe a cheap spare from Hornby or Bachmann?

 

If you're looking to go down the Sam Fay route then maybe a Royal Scott chassis could be used here. I've got an N gauge one planned for one day and IIRC this was the closest chassis to the wheel spacing and size available...

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It does need a front coupling actually, I think I've got one in the spares box somewhere....

 

I recall reading that the B17 chassis is also a close match for a Sam Fay, I may start looking for a cheap old Hornby Footballer on Ebay in the next few months....

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  • 4 weeks later...

James

Very impressive!

What is the thinnest section that has been printed for items like the cab sides and the edge of the footplate, please? Looking at the specs for some of the materials, it seems to suggest that "walls" have to be 1mm thick - or 3" if you model to 4mm scale. For items made out of sheet metal, that seems to leave you with the same sort of chunkiness that you get with whitemetal casting.

Best  wishes

Eric

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Thanks!

 

The thinnest section I managed to get was 1mm on the cab sides and roof.  I *think* it may be a little thinner than that on the splashers but I'm not entirely sure.  It looks a little chunky but as it's an all-black paint job it doesn't really stand out. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I wasn't entirely happy with the finished model so last week I striped it down and rebuilt it.  Filled and sanded the body to get a smoother finish, replaceed the handrails and the safety vlaves and completely replaced the lining.... the completed model I'm much happier with!

 

DSCF2035_zps8d26b337.jpg

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