Michael Woolford Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 I purchased this loco today and am going to convert it to EM. I am having trouble taking it apart; the body will not separate from the chassis, after much frustration, I have decided to come on here and see if anyone has any suggestions? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andytrains Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 I have found that the body is a very tight fit on the chassis. Be very careful how you pull it off, when you have got the two screws out, one forward and one towards the rear. You also have to remove the on that holds the drawbar in place and remove the drawbar. You have to use a bit of force to get the body off. But be careful not to damage anything. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 After the two body screws have been extracted from the deep recesses in the chassis block, start gently levering the smokebox end upwards. You should be able to see the 8-pin DCC socket being exposed. You then need to lever up gently at the cab end. Not easy, because you are also trying to get the waisted firebox sides to release past the motor barrel. Don't forget that you also have to spread the pipe runs on the offside so that the whole lot can be lifted more easily. The interesting thing is that Bachmann don't make a PDF sheet available on their website, so if you bought the model second-hand and unboxed, you really are on your own!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Woolford Posted March 29, 2013 Author Share Posted March 29, 2013 This thing is such a tight fit, I just can't get it to budge! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 I had one like this. As already mentioned the motor unit is a tight fit in the body; and on the stuck one, the paint was still tacky when it was assembled so effectively glued together. With the screws out and the drawbar removed and the injector steam pipes released, (early versions had these glued in to the injectors just adding to the fun) also remove the leading truck and take a look around the underside the with a bright light and try wiggling a scalpel blade or similar into the (small) gaps. As Horsetan above, you should be able to most readily see the front of the chassis block as the point of attack to start it moving. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 I forgot to mention that you don't actually need to remove the drawbar at all unless you intend to shorten it for closer-coupling purposes, as its pivot screw is not actually attached to the cab in any way. With care, you may also be able to spread the cabsides slightly before levering the rear end off. In my sample which is being combined with a Brassmasters "Not-So-Easy" chassis, the entire motor, motor cradle and geartrain are coming out in favour of a scratch gearbox using RG4 gears plus a Maxon. There appears to be just enough space in there to do this. You cannot have a motor wider than 13/13.5mm because of the lower firebox sides. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andytrains Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Have you got the body off yet? I have done one in EM with original wheels, but will do next one with Gibsons. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Woolford Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 Unfortunately still no luck in getting the body off. I have tried using a blade to get in between it and separating any glue/paint. I don't have a thin enough blade so could only go around the edges but no matter what I try, it will not budge. This is really starting to frustrate me now, not because I need it re-gauged soon but because I won't be able to use it if I can't get it sorted. I may even consider selling it if I continue to be unable to do anything with it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Package it up and send it over here. I'll do it. It's not impossible. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
geordie inexile Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 To remove and refit the body on an Ivatt Mucky Duck without causing any damage is not the easiest, however, when you have removed the "correct " screws which are hidden under the brake linkage you are well advanced. To separate the body from the chassis push down on the cab floor whilst applying pressure on the cab roof and the two will separate. When re-assembling take care not to trap any of the plastic pipework under the cab. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Here's one I did earlier. It really is only the two screws that hold it onto the chassis. I found that spreading the cabsides and the pipe runs does help to break any glue / pain residue. The only downside is that I have to find two replacement injector bodies, as my secondhand model did not have them. Incidentally, the Standard 4 2-6-0 (which in reality was the direct descendant of the Ivatt 4) also dismantles in a similar manner. I think that the Bachmann chassis blocks are essentially identical. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Woolford Posted April 3, 2013 Author Share Posted April 3, 2013 I plan on going to ExpoEM next month so I will take it with me and hopefully someone will be able to help me there. Thanks for the offer though, very kind of you. Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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