david12345 Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Hi, I'm looking for a bit of advice. One of my Hornby Cl. 60's, 60078, seems to have developed a problem that when it comes to a corner it dramatically slows down. None of my others do this. It is on ordinary DC control and it also sounds as if there is a constant clicking noise coming from it that increases and decreases as you alter the speed. Any help would be appreciated before it gets sent away. Thanks David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted June 4, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 4, 2013 Time to lift the lid & see if you can identify any issues. It sounds mechanical, perhaps as simple as a loose wire getting caught on something, like the transmission. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0121modeller Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Also, using a digital caliper, check the back-to-back spaceing of wheels on axles are all the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 As Kevin suggests, take the body off and inspect carefully. Keep in mind that the clicking and the slowing on curves may well be independent of each other. My first Hornby 30 was a lovely smooth and quiet runner once the fan was disconnected, and then an irritating click started. Nothing to do with the drive line at all, one sandpipe had moved slightly and was catching rail chairs. Significant slowing on curves suggests binding (friction of some sort) happens as the bogies throw over to take the curve. By powering the motor directly and running the mechanism very slowly off track, then pivotting one bogie only at a time, you may be able to isolate the problem to an end. Look for simple things like the frames moulding on a bogie not being located fully, and thus interfering with the pivotting action. Quite often patient observation will reveal the cause. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0121modeller Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 As Kevin suggests, take the body off and inspect carefully. Keep in mind that the clicking and the slowing on curves may well be independent of each other. My first Hornby 30 was a lovely smooth and quiet runner once the fan was disconnected, and then an irritating click started. Nothing to do with the drive line at all, one sandpipe had moved slightly and was catching rail chairs. Significant slowing on curves suggests binding (friction of some sort) happens as the bogies throw over to take the curve. By powering the motor directly and running the mechanism very slowly off track, then pivotting one bogie only at a time, you may be able to isolate the problem to an end. Look for simple things like the frames moulding on a bogie not being located fully, and thus interfering with the pivotting action. Quite often patient observation will reveal the cause. Was there something wrong with my contribution to try & resolve the problem with the class 60, 34B&D ?? I find it rather rude to credit & agree-score kevin's EQUALLY good contribution , but totally dis-regard my own contribution by echo-ing kevins suggestion & adding your own bits of 'wonderfull' knowledge Back to back wheel differences may well be the problem, I don't know,, but this has been the fault as I found with a similar loco not negotiating curved track, So surely it makes sense to check back-to-back wheel spaceings before taking the body & bogies, etc off its chassis. ?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david12345 Posted June 5, 2013 Author Share Posted June 5, 2013 Thanks guys. Some ideas there. I'll have a look tomorrow night and see whats what. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium kevinlms Posted June 9, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 9, 2013 Was there something wrong with my contribution to try & resolve the problem with the class 60, 34B&D ?? I find it rather rude to credit & agree-score kevin's EQUALLY good contribution , but totally dis-regard my own contribution by echo-ing kevins suggestion & adding your own bits of 'wonderfull' knowledge Back to back wheel differences may well be the problem, I don't know,, but this has been the fault as I found with a similar loco not negotiating curved track, So surely it makes sense to check back-to-back wheel spaceings before taking the body & bogies, etc off its chassis. ?? No there was nothing wrong at all with your contribution regarding back to backs - good advice in fact. All I can see is that 34C didn't read ALL the replies before answering. I'm just as guilty of that as I'm sure most of us are. I believe that almost all who post here (especially replies) are out to provide the best information they can and believe it to be correct. Not every time is 100% accurate, but when the advice is poor, someone else is almost bound to come along with the right information. I've even been criticised for agreeing with someone, or worse told I don't know what I'm talking about, as I've never been a professional railwayman. Even when I was quoting another railwayman's comments. If no one except professionals were allowed to post replies, would this forum benefit from that rule? If you don't like someone's response, best to just move on & ignore that person in future. I wonder what David12345 found to be wrong? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david12345 Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 No there was nothing wrong at all with your contribution regarding back to backs - good advice in fact. All I can see is that 34C didn't read ALL the replies before answering. I'm just as guilty of that as I'm sure most of us are. I believe that almost all who post here (especially replies) are out to provide the best information they can and believe it to be correct. Not every time is 100% accurate, but when the advice is poor, someone else is almost bound to come along with the right information. I've even been criticised for agreeing with someone, or worse told I don't know what I'm talking about, as I've never been a professional railwayman. Even when I was quoting another railwayman's comments. If no one except professionals were allowed to post replies, would this forum benefit from that rule? If you don't like someone's response, best to just move on & ignore that person in future. I wonder what David12345 found to be wrong? Hi Kevin, Had a look last over the past couple of nights but I can't see anything wrong. I am going to get some calipers this week and check the back to backs. I know the clicking isn't the sanding pipes as I have had that issue before, this noise seems to come from within. I'll keep you updated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david12345 Posted September 26, 2015 Author Share Posted September 26, 2015 Hi. I have had the 60 on the shelf for 2 years and 3 months now and I cannot believe that amount of time has passed. I decided to take each piece of advice and check the loco and it turns out it was picking power up from only one bogie due to a wire being badly soldered. It will be returning to Hornby when I can get through to them. Thanks again everybody. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCB Posted September 27, 2015 Share Posted September 27, 2015 Do you seriously expect Hornby to fix a problem over 2 years after buying the loco? Personally I would just solder it back in place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 Do you seriously expect Hornby to fix a problem over 2 years after buying the loco? You'd be surprised at what some people expect these days! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickL2008 Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 Ive got a Hornby 60 chassis, the motor runs slowly not just on curves but generally, and ive tryed to wire back up, after still not fixing the problem and trying to see if Hornby could do anything with it, 3 days later it was returned and with the note enclosed "damage excessive" NL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david12345 Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Do you seriously expect Hornby to fix a problem over 2 years after buying the loco? Personally I would just solder it back in place. I do. I expect to pay for the service. Didn't mention I would expect them to do it for free. I did buy it in 2007. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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