The Lofty Heights

[silky_jack]

MaY 2013:

 

After a bit of a halt to proceedings I needed to relay some track and sort out one of the inclines so that the trains ran smoothly.  Once that was done my attention turned back to Goathland station. 

Firstly I had to try my hand at cutting to shape the station platforms. I have never scratch built platforms before so this was to be my first attempt. I have to say, with an electric jigsaw, and plane I was pretty pleased with the results. So much so that I couldn't resist getting all the building out and setting up a mock up of what the station will look like eventually (now with correctly fitting platforms):

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[silky_jack]

And a few comparison pics:

 

This one is off the Goathland footbridge...

 

 

Off mine...

[Kal]

Hi

 

I like what you did with the platform slope. Very authentic. Just sanding or did you have a template?

[Katier]

Nice looking layout - do you have a plan for allowing access to the lower/hidden levels because it's quite long and derailments 'could' happen?

[silky_jack]

Hi

 

I like what you did with the platform slope. Very authentic. Just sanding or did you have a template?

Hi Kal,

 

I used the buildings to help work out the slope needed and then with the use of an electric plane just shaved them until they were just right.  I need to sand them still before painting etc.

 

Nice looking layout - do you have a plan for allowing access to the lower/hidden levels because it's quite long and derailments 'could' happen?

I am thinking that all retaining walls will be removable so that should be ok.  The problem is that I am not sure with the hillside how access might be achieved...I think I may have to think about this a bit more.

[Sasquatch]

Hi Ian,

Thankyou for your kind comments. I love your track plan it looks like it will be great fun when its up and running. Beware of gradients though, those on our layout are 1 in 50 but the garage floor drops away where the layout currently resides and quite a few trains struggle on the viaduct heading toward the station. When we took it to the local show it was fun watching trains slow down up the gradients and speed up going down. Derailments happen when a train at speed hits set track curves as the weight of the train builds up behind the loco pushing it off the rails.

Feel free to ask questions we're 8 hours behind so might be a while resonding.

 

Shaun.  

[Jaz]

I hink you need to motor on with those peco pits, so I can see how to do it, and then I can consider putting mine in....heehee ;p

Oh and I saw a Bachman piece that would be good for Ron, I'll change the hair and photograph him so you can see. Just in case you decide to go a little Potty !!!!!

 

Aren't you glad you tried RM out? Nice friendly people with similar interests, so you can discuss finer Goathland details with someone who understands

[silky_jack]

Finally nearly bringing everything up to speed now (June).

 

I decided I would change the gauge of the track within the station and bring the lines closer together in order to achieve an effect closer to the real thing.  I changed the point over to PEco streamline.

 

 

 

 

Also finished the left hand feed to the station:

 

 

 

 

Then finally - it was time to play some trains!!! This beauty had been in it's box for nearly a year waiting for it's maiden trip 

 

 

 

 

[silky_jack]

A couple of videos for you (apologies for the poor quality)

 

View my video

 

View my video

[Katier]

Regarding any hills over track - one idea might be to build the actual hill side as a 'module' then use magnets (such as those used to hold cupboards closed) to hold it in place.

 

Use expanded polystyrene as the 'base' of those sections with newspaper/paper mache as a covering and it'll be plenty strong enough and easy to remove/move around.

[silky_jack]

Hi Katier,

 

That's not a bad shout...the only thing I want to avoid if I use that sort of method is obvious joins in the scenery where the removable section sits against the permanent part?

[Kal]

HI SJ

 

We had a similar quandary with Port Lynn on AV. Jaz will tell you some of the stuff she tried,in order to make it, hidden but removable

[silky_jack]

Yes please!

[Katier]

If the scenery comes down to the retaining wall then the joint can be hidden by the (ironically removable) retaining wall. You can also use hedges to cover joints.

[Jaz]

I made Port Lynn cove as a one off surprise for Kal when he was away for work. It was set up between the two long runs and below what later became RAF Zollywood. It was a spot where two rests enabled a lift off work table that Kal made for me. It was a lovely flat space crying out for some scenery    Kal said it was perfect and we needed a cliff above as we needed to cover two heights of tracks, a joke with Julian and a love of  Helicopters and RAF Zollywood was born.

Then came the problem the cove was heavy and had to be lifted on and off by two people in order to protect it, so KAL had a brainwave and added two more rests, which became sliders, this allowed it to seat in place 90% of the time and be moved forward for us to get in and reach the area at the back. but for videoing it was all bitty.

 

Then there was that little waterfall, I always new I had to extend it off to the right. The top to RAF and the bottom to the cove. Off to the right Port Lynn (who was the nutter who mentioned Doc Martin!?) We needed there to be some sense of progress between the different areas, otherwise break boards would have to be used. 

 

Issues :

1. The waterfall needed a little bridge crossing it.

2. The waterfall will need to be finished in order to bring the scenery into some sense of harmony.

3. The RAF clifftop had to look to visually join the lower cove whilst still allowing for it to be pulled out

4. The RAF had to join to Port Lynn, and run down to Kalborough

5. Along the way we need some access to Port Lynn cove, people can't just swim in can they!

 

Ideas moved around as we thought through the various problems about, Kal likes a logical smooth run, discussions of people bungee jumping down or swinging out from rescue helicopters were discounted, we do plan to have A hanging spot for a helicopter but that is another storey. So there was a host of issues. Some pictures to show all this off are partly on Arboretum Valley already and I will repeat this there so as to not hog your thread.

 

But the solution? Well we used plaster cast.

 

Plaster cast foundation class 101, hope this helps 

On the horizontals plastrcast could be fully wetted overlaid if necessary. and popped in place.

1. Buy large quantities not small packs or you'll need a mortgage. Craft Mills does a BIG box.Check internet for best price and postage.

2. Get a large container (it is messy) a plastic sink bowl is good, and a spare container for the residue (I'll explain)

3. Get a bigger box to put the large box that arrives in....the powder can drive you potty (not a Harry Potter reference)

4. Old squash bottles for water are also useful. Going up and down a loft ladder not being recommended. (In hot weather fresh can be swigged ;p) And a LOT of toilet paper to wipe your hands, with the bonus the sticky stuff goes under the plaster cast for modelling 

5. Try smaller strips first, dip cloth in water, lift out with your off hand and with your good hand (I'm left handed) rub the cloth so the plaster fills in as many of the holes/gaps as possible. Because these gaps can look appalling when you want close up photos. A rich mans solution? Two layers. A poor mans solution? Well when you rub and squeeze this stuff some of the white dribbles into the water. Which as it dries make a mess like soil and water, but with a brush or a craft knife can be used to cover said holes. (N.B. When this white stuff has accident dried out completely just rewet it and its still usable....bonus)

N.B. The white stuffs does tend to drop on in opportune places, buildings tracks etc, but don't worry a clean paint brush and water will remove it and a careful wipe of tissue and your good again.

N.B. If it is drying too fast have an old kitchen sprayer full of water and keep it damp.

6. I prefer to hand paint even though it takes longer, but 3 or 4 old kitchen sprayers with some washes of grey, beige, black (thin!) and red or terracotta, can then be sprayed on top at speed to colour this. LET each thin wash dry before the next wash, do 60-80% coverage each time, don't do when still wet or you get one colour not overlaid colours.

Finally for this foundation course. 

When trying to make areas that need to be moved do not wet all the plaster cast!!! 

Fix it to one side of the join that needs to stay permanently in place (usually the higher side) (If possible hang it horizonally for this, you will have to Heath Robinson it for ve rtical ares) Only wet an initial inch or two for firm traction. Once it has dried (if tricky PVA is an additional option for vertical hard to fix placings. Then ready the other side and add tin foil, cling film, even tissue - basically anything you can remove later.Than hang it across over scrunched up tissue paper. I tend to add the original plaster cast in a scrolled effect so I can shape the plaster over tissue paper, if its not flat its not obvious, 

Once all tested and dried, remove the tin foil etc and see if it is sturdy enough to be popped in and out repeatedly, 

N.B. If you are made redundant see if the local hospital needs someone to do the casts for broken bones!!!!

 

And use greenery to cover the joins. Again fixed on one side little pins can then held it in place on the other side and can be removed replaced as necessary. Vairsnts of all these ideas are sure to occur. There is no exact science, just go with the flow.

I will leave you to digest this monologue, don't forget start small. If you have questions I'll try to answer them. Though I am not sure I should be giving a masterclass!!!!

[silky_jack]

Hi Jaz,

Thank you for such an informative post...I really appreciate the time you have time taken to write it.  Loads of ideas in there for me to think about.

[silky_jack]

Finally bringing you into July:

 

I changed my plans for the loco sheds/sidings area...redesigned the track plan and here's the final draft:

 

 

Blue = loco shed/yard area
Purple = General sidings/fiddle yard.
Light orange = General goods
Dark orange = Scrap yard 
Green = Brewery
Dark Blue = Two road loco shed
Red = Programme Track

It manages to tick the boxes of what I want to include....let me know what you think. 

 

 

 

 

 

[silky_jack]

Last set of updates for you and then I am up to date - not a huge amount going on at the moment due to loft temp!! 

 

Work on the sidings area was moved to outside! 

 

 

Cuts made for inspection/ash pits:

 

 

 

Also purchased this beast:

 

 

 

To pull this even bigger beast!! 

 

 

And a nice little GWR Pannier:

 

[jon_1066]

Looking great!  With your sidings two things leap out:

 

1. The cattle dock is accessed through the goods shed - highly unlikely on the prototype - cow with your merchandise not a good idea!

 

2. You have no coal yard.  The most common goods feature of a station in the steam period was coal.  Where are all your coal wagons going to go?

[MattWallace]

To pull this even bigger beast!! 

 

 

 

Great update, but what the hell is that in the picture above? I've been looking for an RHTT train but that looks a little excessive! (would look great with two 20's pulling it though!)

 

Matt

 

P.S. Great idea bringing the baseboards outside to work on, might have to give that a go later.

[Katier]

Looking great!  With your sidings two things leap out:

 

1. The cattle dock is accessed through the goods shed - highly unlikely on the prototype - cow ###### with your merchandise not a good idea!

 

2. You have no coal yard.  The most common goods feature of a station in the steam period was coal.  Where are all your coal wagons going to go?

 

an earlier picture showed he has a model of Goathland station complete with coal drops.

 

That said I would have through the separation between the coal yard (with good shed alongside I think) and the rest of the good facilities is a bit odd.

[Katier]

Looking at the plan I'd drop the cattle dock/goods shed as they aren't needed as goathland has those facilities but keep the brewery as that's a definite industry that can be separated.

[cgraham]

...I would use the whole Goods Shed/Scrap Yard/Brewery/second shed section as a rail served industrial area...

 

...or Hogsmeade Village.  

 

 

[Jaz]

Ooh 'Clay' these are new to me, are you finishing them now to add to Hogwarts? Excellent work. I think Silky_Jack may be tempted away from his purist railway yet 

[silky_jack]

Great update, but what the hell is that in the picture above? I've been looking for an RHTT train but that looks a little excessive! (would look great with two 20's pulling it though!)

 

Matt

 

P.S. Great idea bringing the baseboards outside to work on, might have to give that a go later.

Hi Matt,

 

That my friend is a CMX clean machine....it's the best track cleaner you can get IMHO, but it weighs a lot so you need a big rig to pull it

 

 

Hi Jon & Katier,

 

I really appreciate the comment you guys have made to the plan....it makes a lot of sense what you have suggested.  You are quite right, Gothland does have a cattle dock and good shed, so that box is already ticked.  I do have a second good shed which I wanted to use which is the only reason I was thinking of putting it elsewhere.  

 

Instead of that, do you think that location would we a good place to have some coal sidings?  Or would it be too far from the loco shed. 

 

I also really like the idea of fencing the entire top section off and having it as an industrial area away from the loco sheds etc.  Good plan!