A quick beginner's question

[JimF51]

I'm about to print out my 1st Scalescene structure, but am curious. I've done simpler structures for wargaming, in 6 and 15 MM, and have done the printing on appropriate paper or card stcock. Scalescene calls for printing on paper and glueing to card stock for parts of the item.

 

My questions, does the glue layer make it any more difficult to cut accurately? Or would it make more sense to print onto the correct thickness stock?

 

Thanks.

 

Jim F

[Katier]

I believe the 'print onto paper then glue to card' is to be user friendly as much as anything. Most people who use scale scenes won't have a printer capable of taking more than very thin card stock, so print onto paper then glue onto card is the solution. In terms of accuracy I don't see any difference - if you've glued it well and let it dry it should be fine.

 

That said, if you can print directly onto card, I can't see any reason why not - saves a step - although be aware some sheets are multi-thickness in order to minimise the number of pages you have to print. i.e. if one card thickness uses 1.5 pages, and another 2.5, sharing a sheet gives 4 printed pages, rather than 5 otherwise.

[Chubber]

Hi, Jim!

 

Welcome to the Scalescenes scene, don't worry about the glue....

 

Where a kit says 'thin card' I frequently print straight onto thin white card using the ordinary A4 paper setting at 'words and picture' setting [but see katier's caveat above]

 

Mickey's suggestion of printing onto A4 sticky label paper is useful, but it's a bit like using Evostik contact adhesive, if it goes right the first time it's fine but a bit of a wrinkle appears, disaster!

 

A good reason for printing onto paper and gluing it to pieces of card is this - you will no doubt end up with lots of small pieces of card in various shapes and sizes and rather than waste it, I print onto paper, then cut out individual components and glue them to whichever piece of card they will fit. A wallpaper seam roller is absolutely marvelous for making sure they go on flat and adhere evenly..

 

This link might give you a few hints, sorry if it looks like I'm teaching you to suck eggs.......

 

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=6326&forum_id=14

 

 

In any case, if an answer isn't forthcoming here, message John Wiffen from the Scalescenes site, he's a very helpful chap!

 

Good luck, don't forget to post pictures,

 

Doug

[cornamuse]

Another point is that some of the thinner stuff wraps around so that there are no exposed cut edges - but on the parts that dont, printing on the right thickness card seems to work ok!

[JimF51]

Many thanks for the replies. I started on the Signal box last night, doing up the front wall, and am pleased with my progress, so far. I don't have any clear film to print the windows on, I may just cut out the frames and then glue them to something else, for glazing.

 

Chubbers, I never mind getting good info, there's always something to learn. I couldn't get anything with the link you posted. I had to register, which I did, but I don't see any forums listed, just a column of pics down the left hand side.

 

Thanks again.

 

Jim F

[Metalhip]

I used to be a member of that forum,but because of illness and other personal things I had nothing new to post for a while so my membership was revoked and I was told they're no longer open to new members or renewing membership. YMMV.

Now I get along just fine without looking at their site.

 

Allan

[Tel2010]

 so far. I don't have any clear film to print the windows on, I may just cut out the frames and then glue them to something else, for glazin

 

Hi Jim

Print onto self adhesive label and stick that to plastic,then cut out panes as per Dougs method. Also which ive used successfully is the use of a clear CD case for source of plastic.

 

Tel

[JimF51]

Since this is basically another beginner's question, I'll bump this thread, instead of creating a new one.

 

A little background as to what prompted the question... Quite often on the TV there will be a gag or skit regarding men who don't read instructions, yet women do. In my house, it's the opposite. I do read them, sometimes more than once. My lovely wife, however, almost never does. At least not as the first step. So...

 

Last night, she offered to cut out some of the printed base pieces from sheets for the next kit I plan to start. Just ones on plain paper, so no heavier cutting. (I like to cut out the pieces to a few kits, keeping them in small trays, so I can work on whichever one strikes my fancy at the moment)

 

Then...

 

Her.."Do I cut inside, or outside the line?" Me.."Read the instructions, Honey"   (A few minutes of silence)  Her..."Well, it doesn't say, does it, Dear?"  (hint of sarcasm in the 'Dear')  Me..."Hmmm"

 

So I look, and pull up instructions for other kits. I then, this morning, read some of the threads on RMWeb, and on Your Model Railway Forum.

 

Nowhere can I find the answer. Now, on colored pieces, this is usually not a issue, as I just cut to the edge of the color, not wanting a white edge. But what about base pieces, just a black line outlining the piece, or windows?

 

I thought about how I do it, and basically I lay the straight edge along the line, so I guess I am cutting down the middle, but is this right?

 

I have not reached a stage of assembly where small differences might affect things, just a few small sub assemblies.

 

So, all of te above, for the following question, do folks cut so the black line is left on the scrap, or on the cut out piece?

 

Thanks.

 

Jim F

[frankw]

Jim, I can only speak for my kit designs obviously, but right down the middle is how I design. ie. 6mm square with a 0.5point width line - the 6mm mark is dead centre of the line.

 

BTW your other half must have eyesight that I could only dream about, even in my younger days, to accurately bisect lines like that

[BG John]

I've got a Scalescenes Low Relief Factory printed out ready to start in 7mm scale, so the lines are extra thick! I've also got the challenge of getting the parts to join up, as each sheet has been printed on four sheets of A4!

[Chubber]

I have had a moderate amount of success with downloaded card models and I offer the following for those who can not decide which side of a line to cut. It has stood me in good stead since I have developed cataracts in first one, and now both eyes.

 

Find yourself a sharp implement like the point of a pair of school compasses, a sharpened dart or very large sewing needle in a pin vice or similar suitable handle.

 

At each end of a line, prick the line [in the centre if your sight is acute enough to see a width....]

 

Place the tip of your scalpel/Stanley knife blade in one hole and slide a steel rule up against it.

 

Trying to keep that end in register, put the tip of the blade in the other hole....and slide the straight edge up against it.

 

Return to the first end and repeat.

 

When you are sure the straight edge is truly aligned with the position of the blade tip at both ends, make a light, almost 'pretend' cut. If all is well you will hear a 'clunk' as the blade passes both holes.

 

This is useful in cutting out windows etc. The old adage 'always turn your paper so that you cut on the waste side of the line...' is load of tosh when you are twiddling your paper/card around for the 300th time on the frontage of that warehouse model... but if each corner is marked with a hole, there will be a reliable place to start cutting, and a reassuring increase in resistance when you reach the next hole to say 'stop'.

 

 

I promise this will,become second nature after a while and will increase your likelihood of success.

 

Doug

[JimF51]

BG John, I can sympathize, had to print out mine the same way.

 

Frank, thanks. I'll just assume that with other kits, and continue on as I have been doing, cutting along the like center.

 

Doug, that's how I do cuts, already. The question wasn't the mechanics of the cutting, but, in your example, where does one use the pointy item to prick those small holes. To the outside of a outline, in the middle of the drawn line, or to the inside of the outline.

 

This is what I get for letting the wife have a sharp item LOL

 

Thanks all.

 

Jim F

[Chubber]

Jim, I think I suggested the centre of the line...

 

Doug

[JimF51]

Doug, indeed you did. Missed it. Mea Culpa

 

And, since this is a response to you, a huge Thank You for all you have written on the topic of card modelling. I have learned a lot, and use, or plan to, many of the methods you have written up.

 

Jim F

[14Steve14]

When I design card kits for download I have never thought about where the cut should be relative to the line. I have just printed a page of a kit and measured as accurately as I could where the cut should be relative to the dimension on the original drawing. It seems to  be that the centre of the line is the best place, but when I cut out the kits I always tend to work to the outside of the line, unless its a window or door opening then its to the inside of the line.

 

Its always easier to trim the little bit off if required, rather than to try to add that little bit back on.

 

I have planned to remove a lot of the printed lines from my kits, so having just a brick edge to cut to is even harder that a black line. Will have to see what works best. May need a rethink.

[JimF51]

For base pieces that are just outlined in black, I line up so I cut down the line, so basically slit the line. But for colored sections, I would prefer no line outlining the part.

 

The Scalescene's station kit I am doing has a faint light purple line around each color printed part. Not a big problem, but there are a few spots with some of the windows, where it is a bit difficult to figure out if it needs to be cut away or not.

 

I would prefer to know I just need to cut along the edge of the print.

 

Jim F