First Brass Kit.

[Cyberspice]

I've built quite a few kits over the years and the odd scratch built building but I have never built a brass metal kit and I've only built one white metal kit. So I picked up an A1 Models Boxcab kit from Narrow Gauge North. I can solder well (electronics) but never brass before. 

 

This is how it went!

 

Firstly I folded the sides and the base. I actually folded the base the wrong way :-S. Its symmetric so it doesn't matter but it did make it more difficult to do it cleanly. Below is a rough mock up of the parts.

 

 

The roof was folded but didn't seem that rigid so I cut brace pieces from fret and soldered them in.

 

 

I soldered the checker plates on the platforms at either end, drilled holes for handrail knobs and soldered the sides together and on to the base. The roof is still loose so that I can detail the insides. I will probably glue this on once it is painted.

 

 

I then decided it looked a bit plain and could do with more detail. So using brass wire and tube I fashioned an exhaust and piping for the roof. And using brass strip I fashioned buffer beams. The couplings are Paul Windle brass ones shortened and solder on to the buffer beam.

 

 

Finally I used brass tube to add head lights at either end. 0.45mm brass wire for further handrails. Brass ladder to access the roof. And brass angle for steps. I cheated here and used super glue.

 

 

And this is what it looks like in grey primer (together with a kit bash using two Dapol Drewery shunters on a Bachmann GP50 chassis).

 

 

What did I do wrong?

 

I used electronics leaded solder. I should have used separate flux and a lower temperature solder. I rushed it a little. I should have taken more time and double checked everything before I did it. I should have worked out how to fix the chassis to the body. I'm now thinking silicon sealer.

 

I also should have worn my glasses :-) I now admit I need reading glasses and that they should be on my face and not in their case!

 

Despite all that it doesn't look bad. I have LEDs to fit for the lights and some detail inside. Its going to be sprayed S&DJR blue with black under-frame, grey roof and signal red buffer beams. With name plates from Narrow Planet to finish the job.

[brossard]

The model looks pretty good despite your solder issues.  Electronic solder (cored?) is not really suitable for brass kits - but you already figured that out.  I have always used C&L/Carrs products.  Various melting point solders and matching fluxes make the job a breeze.  http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=446  A decent soldering iron helps too.

 

Another route that I have yet to try is DCC Concepts solders - these are a bit more environmentally friendly (if that floats your boat) and, from what I've read, actually work well.

 

John

[Cyberspice]

My Iron is a Weller Magnestat. Great for electronics. Not sure it can go low enough though for what I need for model making. I also have a couple of antexes. I can see getting the antex power controller for one of them.

[brossard]

I don't know the brand, but its about transferring heat to the workpiece so a 45W iron will usually work well.  You can't really do a lot of damage (unlike whitemetal).  Controlling the amount of solder at the joint can be an issue - I like to cut off tiny pieces and pick these up on the iron's tip or put them on the work and apply the iron (plenty of flux of course). When soldering ends and sides, start with tack joints and inspect to make sure things are square - if not it's easy to adjust.

 

Here's a shot of the kit I use:

 

 

 

The iron is a Weller.

 

 

Keep at it, you've made a good start.

 

John

[JohnBateson]

When soldering brass, assemblers may like to consider the use of "Nealetin", a liquid solder. My last pot was from Hobby Holidays, pricy at £25, but 250 gm will last for years and years (see http://www.hobbyholidays.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=Solderpaint

)

.

I find this ideal for tab and slot assembly, it saves messing about with flux since an acid flux is part if the liquid. Also a lot easier to clean with a fibre brush.

Strengthening a joint with additional solder is very simple.

John B

[halfwit]

Its worth having two types of solder in stock Melanie. I use 188 degree for most of my work and keep some 145 degree handy for detailing, adding small parts (handrails, overlays etc.) without unsoldering nearby joints.

188 degree flows better than 145 in my experience, which helps when cleaning up afterwards. 145 can be a bit 'lumpy'.

I use Eileen's Strong Flux, which is 12% phosphoric acid. Most phos. acid fluxes are 9%. I find the stronger solution works better.

Iron is a standard issue 25w Antex, which I find to be just right for the majority of 4mm work.

 

Just my opinions of course, but the above works for me.

[N15class]

i am with halfwit on the use of 188 and 145 solder, these days I hardly use the 145 though. The model looks good, you have realsed about rushing. But I noticed you need to do a bit more cleaing of the solder. The bit that caught my eye was around the air con unit? on the roof. A jewellers screw driver sharpened like a chisel is ideal.

Keep up the good work, you will learn something new wit each new model.

[Jol Wilkinson]

On the other hand I only use London Road Models 145 for etched kits and Carrs 100 for adding white metal castings to brass or n/s.

 

The LRM 145 has good flow characteristics, especially when used with 12% phosphoric acid flux. However I use an Antex 50 watt soldering station, which has the ability to put plenty of heat into the joint area. The relationship between temperature and power (wattage) is often misunderstood. You need the right level of the first and plenty of the second.

 

Jol

[Michael Delamar]

London road models solder paste is great too for things like lamp brackets etc.