5Bel Posted August 2, 2013 Share Posted August 2, 2013 Hi All, After finishing my 4Sub I have decided to re-visit a couple of my earlier attempts at kit building to bring them up to my current standards. The first of these is my NNK 2Epb. I was never very happy with the solebar arrangement, so after the success of the 4 Sub I have decided to use a similar arangement on this model. The starting point. The DMBS is already in the paint stripper. The main problem with these kits is that the solebars are pressed with the body shell, so making an interior hard to fit. I will be removing the solebars and putting new ones directly onto the chassis. That's the theory anyway! . I know there already is another NNK 2Epb topic running, so it will be interesting to see how we both tackle the trials and tribulations of the kit. Cheers for now, Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Hi Ian, I thought I had replied to this topic of yours yesterday - must be getting old! If you are really going for it, Southern Pride do much finer commode handles than those pictured on your model in post #1.. The part number is P 9. I hope the roof detailing is not going to be removed as you have already done it very well - so nice and straight. It would be a shame to lose it. If the chassis is to be a separate assembly, is it possible to 'sharpen' the bottom edge of the sides? They seem a little rounded by the folding process which formed the integral solebars. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xerces Fobe2 Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 I have the MTK 2 EPB and have just left sleeping dogs lie apart from the motor bogie. It must be due an outing on Croxley WRD as it has been left in it's box for a couple of years. It will appear most likely next year at one of the Shows! Nigel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Bel Posted August 3, 2013 Author Share Posted August 3, 2013 Hi Ian, I thought I had replied to this topic of yours yesterday - must be getting old! If you are really going for it, Southern Pride do much finer commode handles than those pictured on your model in post #1.. The part number is P 9. I hope the roof detailing is not going to be removed as you have already done it very well - so nice and straight. It would be a shame to lose it. If the chassis is to be a separate assembly, is it possible to 'sharpen' the bottom edge of the sides? They seem a little rounded by the folding process which formed the integral solebars. All the best, Colin Hi Colin, The commode handles are one thing I am going to replace with something finer, I have some Dart Castings ones I am going to try. I also have some of the Southern Pride ones you mention. The roof detail is coming off to be redone, some of the conduit was not long enough. I will be replacing the jumper cables with separate items and modifying the steps above the buffers. I may even put those nice NNK steps on the inner ends. I have already removed the solebars and the bottom of the sides can be thinned quite nicely. I will post some pics of progress tomorrow. Cheers for now, Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted August 3, 2013 Share Posted August 3, 2013 Hi Colin, The commode handles are one thing I am going to replace with something finer, I have some Dart Castings ones I am going to try. I also have some of the Southern Pride ones you mention. The roof detail is coming off to be redone, some of the conduit was not long enough. I will be replacing the jumper cables with separate items and modifying the steps above the buffers. I may even put those nice NNK steps on the inner ends. I have already removed the solebars and the bottom of the sides can be thinned quite nicely. I will post some pics of progress tomorrow. Cheers for now, Ian. Very good Ian. I didn't know that Dart Castings also produced those commode handles. The only thing that occurs to me is, having the solebars removed, the sides must be less rigid along the bottom edge. Whether that is a problem only you will know, but having a traditional chassis with a one-piece floor has got to be a good trade-off for the extra work involved. The steps above the buffers on the cab fronts and the lamp irons look like contenders for being replaced with some made from brass sheet. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Bel Posted August 4, 2013 Author Share Posted August 4, 2013 Hi All, A quick update on progress. After stripping all the detail was removed and put in a safe place for re-use. The doors were then rescribed with a stanley knife to make the impressions deeper. Solebars were removed by scoring and bending taking care not to distort the bodysides. As can be seen on the right this method left the bottom of the bodysides rounded. This lip was removed with a large flat file very carefully, as shown on the left. This shows the deeper door impressions. I tried different commode handles from Southern Pride and MJT but none fitted the already drilled holes. Luckily I had loads left over from the 4Sub build and these fit perfectly and look 100% better than the originals. The new solebars will be plastic channel section glued to the sides of the chassis unit with the original stepboards fitted. Next step will be to remove the moulded on end detail. Cheers for now, Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Bel Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 Hi All, A bit more progress. The solebars have been attached to the chassis unit with Cyano adhesive. The kit stepboards were then fitted after removing the cosmetic brackets and thinning down the locating lugs. So far everything is going to plan. I have filled the gaps in the bodywork between the bodyshell and ends with Cyano. This was left for 24 hours to harden then sanded down. The result is nice and smooth. I have still got to remove the end detail ready for the separate items to be fitted. Cheers for now, Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Hi Ian, Just catching up with the work you have done on the 2 EPB. It does look much better to me with a separate chassis, which should make adding the interior a whole lot easier. So you are going to have individual MU parts on the cab fronts like Oldlugger is intending to do? All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Bel Posted August 6, 2013 Author Share Posted August 6, 2013 Hi Colin, The intention is indeed to have separate jumper cables, but I might try opening up the mouldings before cutting them off completely. I will replace the lamp irons with my usual staples. The interior will be a doddle to fit now and due to the BLack Beetle I will be able to have cab interiors at both ends. Cheers for now, Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 Hi Colin, The intention is indeed to have separate jumper cables, but I might try opening up the mouldings before cutting them off completely. I will replace the lamp irons with my usual staples. The interior will be a doddle to fit now and due to the BLack Beetle I will be able to have cab interiors at both ends. Cheers for now, Ian Sounds like a good plan Ian. Having found some rather fine Rexel office staples recently, your use of such things for lamp irons sound interesting. Do you find the body sides are rigid enough at the bottom edge without the solebars? All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Bel Posted August 7, 2013 Author Share Posted August 7, 2013 Hi Colin, The bodysides are much stiffer than I thought they would be. I am still not happy with the position of the footboards, so will be rectifying this next time I work on the model. They seem too low at the moment. I have used fine staples for years for things such as lamp irons, also they make good brackets for stepboards on SR pattern CCT/PMV's. Cheers for now, Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xerces Fobe2 Posted August 7, 2013 Share Posted August 7, 2013 Remember when other modellers thought you were weird if you modeled EMU's rather than a GWR branch line. Great to see there are more of us now with great projects like this! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Bel Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 Hi XF, In my youth I used to model the classic GWR branchline, mainly because I was born in a GWR area but mostly because that was all that was available to me as a 12 year old! As I got older used to long for a kit of a Southern EMU in something other than punched aluminium. It used to be a rare thing indeed to see a Southern layout at exhibitions even rarer one with a third rail attached to it. I can rememeber one called Southwark Sreet and one with blue Emu's on but until Maidstone Barracks and Thornbury Hill turned up that was it. At least I could get a good view of them because there always seemed to no one watching them. At least that what it felt like in those dark distant days. Cheers for now, Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xerces Fobe2 Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Hi XF, In my youth I used to model the classic GWR branchline, mainly because I was born in a GWR area but mostly because that was all that was available to me as a 12 year old! As I got older used to long for a kit of a Southern EMU in something other than punched aluminium. It used to be a rare thing indeed to see a Southern layout at exhibitions even rarer one with a third rail attached to it. I can rememeber one called Southwark Sreet and one with blue Emu's on but until Maidstone Barracks and Thornbury Hill turned up that was it. At least I could get a good view of them because there always seemed to no one watching them. At least that what it felt like in those dark distant days. Cheers for now, Ian. Hi Ian, Well I grew near Watford and traveled on Class 501' s ( it damaged me for life! ) and the second loco my late father bought for me was an Triang EMU which I still have! At the other end of the scale I have found memories of traveling on the Falmouth branch on the 1960's however on wonderful first generation DMU's! I have nothing against GWR branch lines with pannier tanks auto-coaches etc, in fact I quite like them it was just the die hard Brunel heads of the past that could not accept that anything that was not a product of the GWR was rubbish - luckily the world has changed for the better, in this area at least. XF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Clive Mortimore Posted August 8, 2013 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 8, 2013 Remember when other modellers thought you were weird if you modeled EMU's rather than a GWR branch line. Great to see there are more of us now with great projects like this! Hi XF EMU modellers are strange, eccentric, loopy, daft, special, different, or not in touch with reality but never weird. Come to think of it on a personal note the only serious EMU modellers I know are you, Paul Wade and Andi Dell as I said strange, eccentric, loopy, daft, special, different, and not in touch with reality but never weird. I think it is great that modellers are making EMUs, when you consider that most types of EMUs had a long life and transported more passengers per day than some branch lines did in a month why more people don't model them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Hi XF EMU modellers are strange, eccentric, loopy, daft, special, different, or not in touch with reality but never weird. Come to think of it on a personal note the only serious EMU modellers I know are you, Paul Wade and Andi Dell as I said strange, eccentric, loopy, daft, special, different, and not in touch with reality but never weird. I think it is great that modellers are making EMUs, when you consider that most types of EMUs had a long life and transported more passengers per day than some branch lines did in a month why more people don't model them. Eccentric? Loopy? Daft? Count me in Clive! Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Hi Colin, The bodysides are much stiffer than I thought they would be. I am still not happy with the position of the footboards, so will be rectifying this next time I work on the model. They seem too low at the moment. I have used fine staples for years for things such as lamp irons, also they make good brackets for stepboards on SR pattern CCT/PMV's. Cheers for now, Ian. Hi Ian, Good to hear it's all working out well. You are the first person I know of who has tried cutting the solebars off one of these bodies. Re. foot boards, looking at photos of the Buleid 2 HAPs (of identical construction and motor coaches as you know) it looks like the boards are placed in the middle of the solebar channel. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Bel Posted August 10, 2013 Author Share Posted August 10, 2013 Hi All, A little more progress on the unit. As well as putting on separate MU fittings I have decided to replace the inner end steps and pipework. I found the metal quite soft so care was needed to remove the items I needed to and not remove the ones I didn't! I will be using Replica parts for the MU fittings and NNK steps for the inner end. I also have put the stepboards into a more realistic position. I am trying to find some photos of the inner ends of the SR pattern 2Epb. There are some on the SEMG site but they are taken at an angle and not really clear. It is now on to adding the detail which will be easier because of the predrilled holes. The original NNK instructions were very good in this respect. Cheers for now, Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Hi All, A little more progress on the unit. As well as putting on separate MU fittings I have decided to replace the inner end steps and pipework. I found the metal quite soft so care was needed to remove the items I needed to and not remove the ones I didn't! I will be using Replica parts for the MU fittings and NNK steps for the inner end. I also have put the stepboards into a more realistic position. DSCF1995.JPG DSCF1996.JPG DSCF2002.JPG DSCF1998.JPG I am trying to find some photos of the inner ends of the SR pattern 2Epb. There are some on the SEMG site but they are taken at an angle and not really clear. It is now on to adding the detail which will be easier because of the predrilled holes. The original NNK instructions were very good in this respect. Cheers for now, Ian Hi Ian, Some epic work there! Detail photos, courtesy of dasatcopthorne can be found here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/15056-bulleid-2hap-emu/page-8 They are of 2 HAPs, but 2 EPBs are essentially the same in respect of the inner ends, having been made on the same jig. There is also photo in the Brian Golding plans book of a 4 SUB coach inner end. All the best, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Bel Posted August 11, 2013 Author Share Posted August 11, 2013 Hi Colin, Thanks for the comments and the link. I should have thought to look at your topic before I posted, senior moment on my behalf. I am looking forward to adding all the bits and pieces, it looks very bare at the moment. Cheers for now, Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Bel Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 Hi All, I have managed to get a bit more done before I go on holiday. I drilled 0.45mm holes for the hinges and then fitted Roxey door handles. These give a fair representation of the hinges. The door bumpers are 0.5mm plastic rod. Drilling the holes is made a lot easier by using the NNK drilling jig. I also drilled the roof to accept supports for the conduit. Using my sons new camera in super macro mode does highlight scratches on the bodyshell that are invisible to the naked eye! I am spending the next two weeks in Cornwall so no modelling but I will be visiting Kernow models, I notice they have cheap Bachmann 2Epb's! Cheers for now, Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin parks Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Hi Ian, The model is looking good. and much better for the removal of the cast-on inner end pipework. Enjoy your holiday, Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 I keep thinking I should do much the same thing with the Ayjay (resin) Tin HAL. The end details are rather thick as it comes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Bel Posted August 18, 2013 Author Share Posted August 18, 2013 Hi SRman, I have looked at the Ayjay models but they somehow don't look quite right to me. This is only my opinion though. If they did their bodyshells deviod of all the moulded on details I might be tempted though. Cheers for now, Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
5Bel Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 Hi All, I have made quite a bit of progress since returning from the sunshine of Cornwall. The DMBS bodyshell is complete, with much finer detail than before. For this model I have used nickel silver wire for the roof conduit and end gubbins as opposed to the brass I usually use. Next up is the DTS which is back to it's raw state ready for me to rescribe the doors and drill the door bumpers. The primer is Simoniz Acrylic purchased from my local car spares shop. It gives a nice smooth base for the main livery colour. Cheers for now, Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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