keith73 Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Hi just read through your thread. Amazing layout, excellent detailed work so far. Looking forward to more updates 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Looking forward to more now.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 This last week, I've been having a go at weathering some Cement PCA's and making up rebar loads for my two FGT made SPA wagons. To be honest, I'm not sure the PCAs completely work. We shall see. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d winpenny Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Wagons and loads looking great David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted January 13, 2015 Author Share Posted January 13, 2015 I made a quick start on weathering the rebar load this morning. The lighter bauxite colour at the top is Halfords Red Plastic Primer. The lower ones in darker brown have also had a coat of Plasti-kote 'Suede'. More coats needed me thinks! Dave 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sp1 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Very nice layout! How did you make the tiebars on the turnouts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Very nice layout! How did you make the tiebars on the turnouts? Hi sp1. Here are a few photos to help. They are made from 1mm thick double sided PCB bought as off-cuts from the likes of Eileens or similar. The cut down sides go under the stock-rails to stop the blades rising up. The tubing is from old point control stuff but is available from tool stands at shows such as Tools2000. Once the tube is soldered on then the insulating cuts are made. When soldering the point blades i used a wood sleeper between the blade and stock-rail as a spacer as well as another under the tiebar to keep it raised against the underside of the stock-rail. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sp1 Posted January 14, 2015 Share Posted January 14, 2015 Hi sp1. Here are a few photos to help. They are made from 1mm thick double sided PCB bought as off-cuts from the likes of Eileens or similar. The cut down sides go under the stock-rails to stop the blades rising up. The tubing is from old point control stuff but is available from tool stands at shows such as Tools2000. Once the tube is soldered on then the insulating cuts are made. When soldering the point blades i used a wood sleeper between the blade and stock-rail as a spacer as well as another under the tiebar to keep it raised against the underside of the stock-rail. MakingTieBar0001.JPG MakingTieBar0002.JPG MakingTieBar0003.JPG MakingTieBar0004.JPG MakingTieBar0005.JPG MakingTieBar0006.JPG MakingTieBar0007.JPG MakingTieBar0008.JPG MakingTieBar0009.JPG MakingTieBar0010.JPG Dave Thank you! That looks deceptively simple, and is a visual improvement over the usual 'moving sleeper' - how robust are the joints from the tiebar to the switches? Steve 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Some more interesting work Dave. Wil pop in again soon... cheers neil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 A few last minute adjustments to the magnets for the Brian Kirby style magnetic uncoupling system used on the layout. Up to now we've used 'corsage magnets' which are pretty strong Neodymium 3mm thick disk magnets. They worked very well, in fact, a bit too well. Lightweight items of rolling stock would now and again uncouple when they really shouldn't. This being because the couplings weren't kept in tension when passing over the magnets due to the nearest axle being attracted by the magnet and 'releasing' the tension on both couplings. Also, these magnets were buried under the track in the underlay. I've now sourced new magnets that not only attract just the coupling but can be fitted to the underside on the 6mm thick baseboard. Also made a few new signs to mark their presence for the operators. Dave 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold mudmagnet Posted January 22, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 22, 2015 Nice work Dave. what have you used to make the re-bar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 Nice work Dave. what have you used to make the re-bar? Mudmagnet. I'm not going to be much help here, I'm afraid. I spotted similar stuff used in the same way on the 'Troutons' thread. So I searched on eBay for 'twisted wire' and came up with someone selling some cut into 130mm lengths. Lord knows what it was originally for. I bought 100 lengths and wish now I had more. Haven't seen it since. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold mudmagnet Posted January 22, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 22, 2015 Mudmagnet. I'm not going to be much help here, I'm afraid. I spotted similar stuff used in the same way on the 'Troutons' thread. So I searched on eBay for 'twisted wire' and came up with someone selling some cut into 130mm lengths. Lord knows what it was originally for. I bought 100 lengths and wish now I had more. Haven't seen it since. Dave Thanks for reply. I'll keep an eye out for something as these make a nice load or junk lying around! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 Just got these two semi-ready for the Erith Show this weekend 24th & 25th Jan. Dave 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted March 1, 2015 Author Share Posted March 1, 2015 The two new FGT SPA wagons ventured out during the recent Erith Show. Now that the couplings have been adjusted and the pivoting axles 'locked up' they run very well. They can be seen here arriving in Oil Drum Lane yard whilst two CAR brake vans are about to be moved by a Class 60 in Loadhaul. Dave 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Looking realy good Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d winpenny Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Looking great David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DropTheTap Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 A few last minute adjustments to the magnets for the Brian Kirby style magnetic uncoupling system used on the layout. I've now sourced new magnets that not only attract just the coupling but can be fitted to the underside on the 6mm thick baseboard. Also made a few new signs to mark their presence for the operators. DAV_6242.jpg DAV_6245.jpg Dave Uncoupling magnets for which you don't have to ream out your baseboard? Perfect!! What are these and where may I purchase them please? Many thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 Uncoupling magnets for which you don't have to ream out your baseboard? Perfect!! What are these and where may I purchase them please? Many thanks! Hi DTT. Just noticed your request. Will look up who supplied them a get back here. Watch this space. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 DTT The magnets used are from Spider Magnets Ltd. in Barnsley. They were the cheapest by far and post free as I got them through their ebay shop. This link should find the ones you want. http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Very-Strong-Neodymium-Block-Magnets-25x10x3-mm-N52-Grade-craft-diy-scalextric-/ They are 25 x 10 x 3mm N52 @ £4.37 per 5. You need two per uncoupling point, laid end to end. As per photo above. Bear in mind that I have 6mm baseboard then 3mm underlay then track. If they are too strong, space them away from the underside with whatever you like. I mounted them first with doublesided tape then Araldite. Took all my magnets from directly under the track as they were attracting the axles as well as the coupling. The new ones work just fine. Best of luck. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 Hi Guys. Recently found these 'loads' courtesy of another thread. They are on offer for £5/£5.95. Have a look, as they look as though they are not going to be stocked much longer. Already lots of item out of stock. They're H0 by the way. Cheers Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitbull1845 Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Hi Dave, They look good, what thread/site are they on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 They look great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ess1uk Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Some great work here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 Hi Dave, They look good, what thread/site are they on? Sorry Guys. I thought I had included the website link. Here it is: http://pandhmodels.com/product.php?id_product=954 Look down the list on the lefthand side. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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