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Falcon Road TMD & Prospect Yard. See us at Ally Pally in 2023.


dasatcopthorne
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Very early in the thread you said you used matt acrylic varnish to set the ballast. What mixing ratio did you use?

Hi.

 

I use about 25 - 30% water + 5% IPA for wetting. The dry ballast also needs wetting well first with a mist of 50/50 water/IPA mix.

 

Best of luck.

 

Dave

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  • 2 months later...

I'm happy to report that the Falcon Road P. Way gang has recently been out laying a new pipe run opposite the Bagged Aggregate shed ready for increased throughput.

 

This also requires that a new colour light position needs to be established for the run up to Oil Drum Lane sidings.

 

Clearly a jack hammer is needed to prepare the ground.

 

 

 

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Dave

 

 

 

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Hi Dave,

 

I have really enjoyed looking through this topic today. There are a lot of nice touches throughout. The use of matt varnish for setting ballast is very interesting and I shall experiment with that idea myself.

 

One question (from one who is going in what might be termed the 'opposite' direction!): how did you settle on a gauge of 16.2mm? Is there some particular reason why that is better than 16.5mm or 16.8mm for that matter?

 

All the best,

 

Colin

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Hi Dave,

 

I have really enjoyed looking through this topic today. There are a lot of nice touches throughout. The use of matt varnish for setting ballast is very interesting and I shall experiment with that idea myself.

 

One question (from one who is going in what might be termed the 'opposite' direction!): how did you settle on a gauge of 16.2mm? Is there some particular reason why that is better than 16.5mm or 16.8mm for that matter?

 

All the best,

 

Colin

 

 

Hi Colin.

 

Hope you are improving.

 

Thanks for your comments. Much appreciated, coming from someone with your modelling skills.

 

I 'discovered' 00-SF 16.2mm when a friend bought Templot to assist if track design and building. We later designed two layouts with this now FREE software.

 

I cannot remember now but the designer of Templot, Martin Wynne suggested through the Yahoo Group that an existing (but little known) gauge of EM - 2 might hold a solution to running RTR locos on better looking and better running track.

 

With flangeways of 1mm, running through frogs is much improved, as you would guess.

 

My use of it is/was because some of the much improved steam locos from both Bachmann and Hornby proved almost impossible to re-gauge their B2Bs to 14.5mm. The old stuff is much easier.

 

As these were club layouts, members with lots of stock could not be asked to re-wheel all their locos, so 16.2 was settled on.

 

As for the matt varnish (water based), this came about from an article from the States, in which someone used Matt Medium. So cheap over there but so expensive here. A few experiments made, I settled on the varnish. At the time I was also concerned about granite ballast turning green with PVA. Don't use that any long now, anyway.

 

If you have a go at this, don't forget the IPA. Washing up liquid doesn't seem so good with the varnish. The varnish isn't quite so hard when set so where track crosses baseboard joints, I still use PVA for about the last 25mm up to the edge to resist chipping the ballast when moving the layouts.

 

Best of luck

 

Dave

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Thanks for the full explanation of the 16.2mm track gauge Dave.

 

I can now see you have a set of standards with the finer wheels and crossings of EM without the need to touch the RTR stock. My friend and fellow NHH operator, Mark came around last night and gave his latest acquisition, a Bachmann J11, a blast along the layout. He reckoned such locos would perform very well on EM-2. Anyway, I like the flowing point work on Falcon Road. I can see that persisting with the sometimes mind-boggling Templot CAD program is well worth the effort. I am rather impressed with the point tie-bars too. They are of a very similar design to a P4 layout called Preston and very robust they look to be too.

 

I agree with you about reducing the use of PVA glue for ballasting. It is so acidic (well that is what the 'A' stands for so we shouldn't be surprised!) that on my layout, there are two road crossings in the goods yard where the tops of the rails continue to discolour due to the splashing of the PVA glue on them some six years ago.

 

All the best,

 

Colin

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Thanks for the full explanation of the 16.2mm track gauge Dave.I can now see you have a set of standards with the finer wheels and crossings of EM without the need to touch the RTR stock. My friend and fellow NHH operator, Mark came around last night and gave his latest acquisition, a Bachmann J11, a blast along the layout. He reckoned such locos would perform very well on EM-2. Anyway, I like the flowing point work on Falcon Road. I can see that persisting with the sometimes mind-boggling Templot CAD program is well worth the effort. I am rather impressed with the point tie-bars too. They are of a very similar design to a P4 layout called Preston and very robust they look to be too.I agree with you about reducing the use of PVA glue for ballasting. It is so acidic (well that is what the 'A' stands for so we shouldn't be surprised!) that on my layout, there are two road crossings in the goods yard where the tops of the rails continue to discolour due to the splashing of the PVA glue on them some six years ago.All the best,Colin

Mmmmm! Templot.

 

Wouldn't be without it.

 

I think there are two secrets to Templot.

 

A good pre-drawn plan on your boards so you can transfer the track position measurements into Templot. Draw your baseboards first as 'shapes'

 

And most importantly. Play with it first!

 

Bummer. That's three!

 

Good luck

 

Dave

Edited by dasatcopthorne
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dasatcopthorne, on 18 Mar 2014 - 17:44, said:

Mmmmm! Templot.

 

Wouldn't be without it.

 

I think there are two secrets to Templot.

 

A good pre-drawn plan on your boards so you can transfer the track position measurements into Templot. Draw your baseboards first as 'shapes'

 

And most importantly. Play with it first!

 

######. That's three!

 

Good luck

 

Dave

Hmm... Shapes? Will have to look into that!

 

All the best,

 

Colin

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Hmm... Shapes? Will have to look into that!

 

All the best,

 

Colin

 

Colin.

 

Draw each baseboard as a Shape (an oblong in my case 1200mm x 600mm) and name them and save. Then on each session, open the 'shapes' file to load them.

 

Although Templot is for drawing individual track comonent templates, it's easy to join each  one as you draw.

 

Dave

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The powers-to-be have ordered a clean up of the Depot and its surroundings!

 

Eric is about to start on the Ladies toilets while others make a start on repairing bits and pieces including erecting a new length of fence and getting the old Forklift started.

 

 

 

 

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Dave

 

 

 

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Thanks for the full explanation of the 16.2mm track gauge Dave.I can now see you have a set of standards with the finer wheels and crossings of EM without the need to touch the RTR stock. My friend and fellow NHH operator, Mark came around last night and gave his latest acquisition, a Bachmann J11, a blast along the layout. He reckoned such locos would perform very well on EM-2. Anyway, I like the flowing point work on Falcon Road. I can see that persisting with the sometimes mind-boggling Templot CAD program is well worth the effort. I am rather impressed with the point tie-bars too. They are of a very similar design to a P4 layout called Preston and very robust they look to be too.I agree with you about reducing the use of PVA glue for ballasting. It is so acidic (well that is what the 'A' stands for so we shouldn't be surprised!) that on my layout, there are two road crossings in the goods yard where the tops of the rails continue to discolour due to the splashing of the PVA glue on them some six years ago.All the best,Colin

PVA = polyvinyl acetate. Not to go all chemistry on you, but it is an ester rather than an acid. It would only be acidic if it underwent hydrolysis, and under normal conditions this would occur very slowly. Acidic damage to your rail is more likely from flux, I wonder if treating it with an aqueous solution of baking soda will cure your problem.

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