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Minsterley - Modern Image OHLE Layout


Doughnut
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Absolutely stunning work as always! Just about those 7 segment displays, which colour do you have and what size? I can only find red in 7mm at Maplin, and Green in 14mm from Rapid (which seems a little large)

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Hi Dave, it's taken a few days to catch up on here but well worth it. You have done such a good job with the weathering that there's one pic a couple of pages back that looks like the work bench clutter had been super imposed behind the retaining wall of a real line!  Well done, top modeling of the highest order. Can't wait to see some trains running.

 

Regards Shaun.    

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Thanks chaps.

I got the 7-segment displays, Sub39h, few years ago now. They are yellow and 9mmx13mm. I know RS components do them and ebay. Found the following at rapid, but its 1-2 months for dispatch. http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Kingbright-SA03-12YWA-Yellow-LED-Display-Anode-57-0326. Think Ive got a couple left, knocking around the place somewhere, if you get totally stuck.

Thanks Shaun, I can see what you mean yes..lol. That clutter pile really is a disgrace.  It moves around the layout to wherever the work is, but you know how it is! :secret: The retaining wall, as you say, does keep it out of shot to a large degree. But its gonna have to go, as its right on top of where the final station's going to be.

 

Dave

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I can only agree with what others have said about your great recent updates on Minsterley and how as said that some shots do look as if taken looking the line of the real thing, cracking work as always Dave and the rest too look forward too.

 

 

 

ps: hope I when placed near wall I don't lean too far and fall over other side he he

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I take it from answer to Tase`s question once you burn out the diamond in the beams, a scalpel then used to trim edges up and amazing how sharp n crisp they are, impressive methord as I would be probably over heat warp them all. practice makes perfect as they say as Minsterley shows it well.

 

Cheers Ken. No wories...it's only a scale 6ft drop at the end of the platform, so you'll be ok.  Unless I've got a train coming up, that is !!

 

Dave

 

I guess that may fall under chassis inspection  in the crudest way, unless it`s a passing CL 43 with loo being used then I would be right in sh:te  haha

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I take it from answer to Tase`s question once you burn out the diamond in the beams, a scalpel then used to trim edges up and amazing how sharp n crisp they are, impressive methord as I would be probably over heat warp them all. practice makes perfect as they say as Minsterley shows it well.

 

 

I guess that may fall under chassis inspection  in the crudest way, unless it`s a passing CL 43 with loo being used then I would be right in sh:te  haha

Yes Ken you got it. Gotta be quick with the soldering iron in the plastic...in...out........you know the rest! 

I've got a signal at the top of the dive-under now, so I'd be able to stop the train before the first loo compartment got to you. Alas, you'd probably be under the loco !!!

 

Dave

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I did a have two questions of thought till I read laughed and forgot so I`ll blame it on heat stroke for now

 

Yes Ken you got it. Gotta be quick with the soldering iron in the plastic...in...out........you know the rest! 

I've got a signal at the top of the dive-under now, so I'd be able to stop the train before the first loo compartment got to you. Alas, you'd probably be under the loco !!!

 

Dave

 

don't mind being under the loco makes a change from trucks as both being diesel n wotnot......

 

 

edit:

 

just remembered do you stick with normal couplings or use kadee on fixed rakes etc.

Edited by yorkie_pudd
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Tried the kadees a long time ago and though they were ok, I found that they uncoupled too easily. So I stick with the narrow normal tension couplers. For DMU's I use bar couplers similar to the ones used on the Bachmann Voyagers. I usually fit Gutzold close couplers to DMUs/EMUs too, but they are so hard to find now.

 

Dave

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This weeks OHLE progress.  5 x Headspans (one in progress, hence the bare brass columns), 2 x castellated portals and a cantelever gantry. A few trackside bits and bobs too, such as AWS ramps & TPWS grids and a few axle counters.

 

Dave

very nice modelling, we have to do gantries soon.....where's the step by step process......come on divvy up.... :jester:

 

Lovely modelling.

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Thanks Jaz, DT & Terry. Could do some pics and a write-up, Jaz, while building them, if that would be any use??

Would be happy to help a fellow Modern-Imager, Terry. Drop me a line and we can sort something, im sure.

 

Dave

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very nice modelling, we have to do gantries soon.....where's the step by step process......come on divvy up.... :jester:

 

Lovely modelling.

 

 

Thanks Jaz, DT & Terry. Could do some pics and a write-up, Jaz, while building them, if that would be any use??

Would be happy to help a fellow Modern-Imager, Terry. Drop me a line and we can sort something, im sure.

 

Dave

 

Definitely would be an immense help to those who`d like to do OHLE I more then reckon....

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I agree, sharing with others, how you achieve effects, is in my opinion one of the nicest things you can do. 

How often do you go see someones fine work and think OMG I wish I had half an idea how to do that.

 

So doughnut if you can, that would be really wonderful. :sungum:

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A little bit more OHLE progress, a scratch-built signal which cost a lot less than if I'd bought one and  a bit of 'how to build OHLE' which I was asked for.

The signal, which is for the Dive-under/fiddle yard access to the main line, I built from a bit of brass tube, brass wire, square of plasticard, 3 spare LEDS I had in my box and some plastic ladder, which is the only bit not scratch built; but could be!

The 'How to ' pics show one of the fundamentals of OHLE building - Making the insulators. Initially I used some Sommerfeldt insulators, but they soon ran out and so decided to make some myself and have an in-exhaustable supply. Its basically the 2mm diameter Plastruct-type plastic tube, cut into 15mm lengths and turned in a Dremel tool, using a small triangular file to score the plastic into ribs. Trick is to insert a bit of metal rod into the tube, before turning it, which prevents the plastic melting and 'wobbling-off' horribly. Once done I trim them  & paint them a red/black colour. Done. Hope this is of some use? A few pics of some more Tensioning mast, too, which are probably the trickiest to build.

 

Dave

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Edited by Doughnut
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Signals again this week. Wiring -up to  be precise. My Pride and joy Scratch built signal Gantry with signals M8 & M9. Based on the latest thing. ie not bulbs but LEDs, these are built using Tri-coloured LED's, which allows multi-colours from one aspect. Multi-arm feathers too. Breathed a huge sigh of relief when they all worked. Big signal gantry in Minsterley station wired up now too.

The end of the line is in sight, at last....not long before trains are GO!!

 

Dave

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Edited by Doughnut
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