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Oil recommendations?


Pyewipe Jct

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Hi all, just a quick question regarding any recommendations for a good oil for gears/bearings, etc.

I've always used Walkers Model Railway Oil, but typically, when I needed it the other day, I found my last bottle had been knocked over & the contents had leaked out through the lid, leaving nothing but an oily bench...

As it's been some years since I bought any (as in, a LOT of years!), I wondered what the current 'must-have' is :)


Cheers,

 

Kevin

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  • 1 month later...

For many years I have successfully used finely powdered graphite intended for lubricating locks, you can get it in a (very) small puffer bottle from ironmongers or locksmiths. Although small, my bottle is still more than half full, and I have used it for its intended purpose too.

 

Rubbing a soft graphite pencil against moving gear wheels can be quite useful too.

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Also good plastics compatible lubricant ranges from Labelle and Woodland Scenics which are widely stocked. The light greases are particularly useful for staying put and doing the job long term on gear trains and chassis.

Labelle 101 and 102 are good. The 102 grease is particularly suitable for relubricating Escap RG4 geartrains.

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  • 3 weeks later...

A word of caution, split chassis locos, mainline especially, suffer from oil and dirt on the axle journals, which creates resistance across the journals, the journals which are part if the driving wheels warm up expand, the axles soften and the wheels lose their grip on the axles and slip destroying bthe quartering which is the end for that chassis.    Peco electrolube is alledgedly non insulating and should be ideal for these locos but after many years and a box full of scrap chassis I hit on a cure, brass wiper pickups from chasis halves to the back orf the driving wheels, it works a treat, even when I use my favorite Automatic Transmission Fluid to oil the journals.  

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Having used Electrolube (not supplied by Peco!) at work in industry many years ago, I did try using our professional cans on model railways. I soon found that it affected some plastics. Also NEVER use it on motors, you get instant better running, but this soon deteriorates rapidly as it softens the carbon brshes and fills the commutator slots up, & can destroy the motor.

Having tried our Electrolube on the models, I was a little surprised when Peco introduced it many years ago. I've never used their supply, the price put me off (branded Electrolube, even from Maplins (which is not the cheapest as those of us in the trade are aware) is much more economical. It does have its uses but I am VERY careful where I use it in case of damage to plastic. There may even be different "mixes" of Electrolube in each supply chain, I don't know.

A clean with Servisol video head cleaner. applied with a cotton bud is neccessary, with a wipe of Electrolube added from another cotton bud. I agree about extra pickups though, I always add those wherever I can.

 

Stewart

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For metal motion parts I use Shell Tonna 32, which for those with a telecoms history is Oil,Bearing 19. Stays put and you only need a tiny drop.

 

Don't use WD40 or Electrolube on any plastics, they will seriously be damaged by them. The other chioces are listed above.

 

Andy G

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  • 3 months later...

The instructions that came with my Hornby 'Grange' recommends 3 in 1! Have used it (sparingly) for 3 years on all UK and Roco/Piko continental models: no problems to date..

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The instructions that came with my Hornby 'Grange' recommends 3 in 1! Have used it (sparingly) for 3 years on all UK and Roco/Piko continental models: no problems to date..

You've been lucky. I have a number of instances where 3-in-1 attacks plastic.

 

Stewart

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You've been lucky. I have a number of instances where 3-in-1 attacks plastic.

 

Stewart

Hi,

The use of 3in1and other similar household oils will cause damage to plastic over time.

All these oils contain aromatic hydrocarbons and these are solvents that will attack and cause depolymerisation of the plastics used in models.

The effects can sometimes take several years to show up but nothing can stop them happening once the hydrocarbons have entered the plastic and break up of the plastic results.

There is no need at all to pay for expensive lubricants.

For general lubrication of bearings, axles etc. go to a radio controlled model car shop and buy a bottle of shock oil - this is pure silicon fluid and is an excellent lubricant and totally plastic safe,

For gears etc. use standard automotive lithium grease - Wilkinson's do a tub for under a fiver that will last a lifetime for modellers although it has hundreds of uses aground the home. Again perfect for our models and totally plastic safe.

I've been using these for years with perfect results.

Hope this helps.

Regards

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