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Shunting plank


Hippo

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Well I started this on Christmas eve after buying a Hornby Sentinel.

I took my inspiration from here 

 

http://www.carendt.com/scrapbook/page93/index.html (First one down 'Little End Yard')

 

Although I have put 2 points not 1.

Buildings will probably end up being Scalescenes as they are cheap.

 

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I'm not sure what to call it yet, although 'Sentinel Lane' or 'Wood Works' (using my surname of Wood) seems to be a favorite in our household.

 

Size is 1150x200mm, the track is Peco code 75. The points are medium elctrofrogs modified to improve running, powered by Seep point motors, and every last piece of track has its own power feed to try and get reliable running. When I finally finish laying the track.

 

I'm not sure yet if I'm going DCC as I have a full Gaugemaster prodigy set in the loft, although I may just go for plain old DC.

 

post-8690-0-42955600-1388405207.jpg

 

Thanks for looking

 

Owen

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Well new years eve and a few more hours this afternoon have seen the track laying and wiring finished for now.

What a mission for such a small layout. Most of it being my own fault, I really wanted droppers on every piece of track to help with reliable running. I also had trouble with the point motors, the trouble being I lost the instructions months ago and proceeded to wire them up wrong and then spend a an hour trying to work out what was wrong... Doh. A quick google and all was sorted. I also had trouble with one of the two frogs, I had used a second hand point from my stash and although it looked ok I couldn't work out why the frog wasn't getting power I tried everything as by this stage it was all glued down. As a last resort I ripped it up to find the original wire fitted by Peco for the frog had come un-soldered.

 

For the time being I will just control it with a basic DC Bachmann controller, and after asking elsewhere about 16V ac power supply, I found in my loft an old Graham Farish controller with a 15V ac output, on its own it wasn't enough to fire the Seeps but with a CDU it all works fine.

 

Pictures to  follow later

 

Cheers

Owen

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Here's the pics

 

post-8690-0-04026400-1388606010.jpg

The wiring looks ok, but I may have nightmares about soldering irons tonight

 

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The track looks alright, I only stuck it down with Pva.

 

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Running in my little Sentinel, the reason for building this plank

 

Thanks for looking 

Owen

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Well I spent this evening playing with couplings, specifically the staple type and got no where. I couldn't get them to reliably work.

So next phase is to try and get hold of some Kadee's to try.

 

Owen

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Well I spent this evening playing with couplings, specifically the staple type and got no where. I couldn't get them to reliably work.

So next phase is to try and get hold of some Kadee's to try.

 

Owen

Hi Owen

im using the Kirby (staple method)works ok on my boxfile layout.What i found i had to do was bend end that hung down sideways 90 degrees for it to work over small neodymium magnets sunk under track..Im only useing one hook each end of stock,as they wont be turned.Also using Bachman couplers as they are not magnetic.

Hope this helps

Tel

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Hi Tel, Thats a great box file layout.

Have you bedded the magnets into the concrete, as one of the main problems I had has I want the uncoupling to happen on a flush floor, and by setting the magnets just below rail height, the staple pulled down but not enough to uncouple.

 

Thanks

Owen

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Hi Tel, Thats a great box file layout.

Have you bedded the magnets into the concrete, as one of the main problems I had has I want the uncoupling to happen on a flush floor, and by setting the magnets just below rail height, the staple pulled down but not enough to uncouple.

 

Thanks

Owen

Hi Owen

Thank you :)

Yes the magnets are below the concrete and between sleepers at front and in fiddle yard.I think if doing it now would use larger in size magnets like what would be in a cupboard lock to have a bigger area to pull couplings down,though would have to go under track.With ones between sleepers that im using even though powerful you have to shunt slowly or you pass magnet before anything happens.Try to avoid curves too.with such a small area its also why im only having coupling on one end of wagon,hoop on other,so only have one staple working at a time.

What i did to get working i build a test bit of wood with track on and magnet under and adjusted stapels til they worked.

Tel

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Well I had another go with the Staples today and it went better, but still not as good as I had hoped.So I have bittern the bullet and ordered some Kadee's to try  :O . So until they arrive everything with the track is on hold, as if I chose them then I will have to fit magnets in different places to where i have temporarily got them.

 

I also built this for the centre of the back scene, its not finished yet, but I think it looks ok. I will mount it directly to the back sheet of plywood when its finished. I've also got a knightwing pipe pack to help disguise the joins in it 

 

 

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post-8690-0-10237100-1388951304.jpg

 

 

Cheers

Owen

 

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I like the look of your layout Hippo, I have a question about your point operation, are they electofrog points and have you modified them for dcc in any way? I only ask as I had a loco short by

(I think) touching the other switch rail on a pair of unmodified points and wondered how to get round the problem?

I like the scalescenes buildings as well !

 

Steve

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Well I had another go with the Staples today and it went better, but still not as good as I had hoped.So I have bittern the bullet and ordered some Kadee's to try  :O . So until they arrive everything with the track is on hold, as if I chose them then I will have to fit magnets in different places to where i have temporarily got them.

 

I also built this for the centre of the back scene, its not finished yet, but I think it looks ok. I will mount it directly to the back sheet of plywood when its finished. I've also got a knightwing pipe pack to help disguise the joins in it 

 

 

attachicon.gifP1.jpg

 

attachicon.gifP2.jpg

 

 

Cheers

Owen

OK, I really like the size of the HUGE structure. It's not often that people will model properly overpowering industrial buildings. Top marks for that!

 

Ian

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Hippo,

do the point motors change polarity of the frog or do you have a separate switch? I've seen lot's of different ways to do it but none that I find easy! 

Also what part of Collier Row from? I live at the end of Clockhouse Lane not far from the pinewoods pub, it's a small world!

Steve.

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Hi Steve I used Seep PM1's with built in accessory switches. They were a right to seep up though. The wiring was a pain in the proverbial but I just worked through it systematically and got there in the end. I use Peco studs and probe just on the corner of the board.

 

I used to go to Clockhouse School, and cycle down Kings Hill looking out over London. I lived in Carter Close, so opposite end of Carter drive to you, my parents still live there.

 

Owen

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Not got a lot done this last few nights. However my Kadee's turned up today so i have been having a play. They seem to work well so I have glued the magnets down and can crack on finishing off the track work.

 

Cheers

Owen

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Looks great, and I look forward to seeing this progress! One question though, how did you assemble the frames for the baseboards? I.e Nails, screws..etc

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