hayfield Posted January 5, 2014 Share Posted January 5, 2014 Just before Christmas I bought this Port Wynnstay Models freelance brake bogie coach. I had little idea about these coaches or the range other than looking on their website, and luckily for me there were some good photos of the kits contents. When it arrived I was very pleased with what I received. Over Christmas I was in Chelmsford and visited John Dutfield model shop to buy some super glue to build it, but had some friendly advice from one of the members of staff who advised the use of Epoxy Glue. Detailed look of the main parts I have given the big items a good wash in soapy water as advised after giving the backs of the sides and ends a quick sand and the tops and bottoms of the sides were squared up. First Job is to drill the holes for grab handles and door knobs. Link to the website http://www.ngtrains.com/Pages/Port_Wynnstay/freelance.htm The kit I have came without bogies or underframe details, but I have some bogies I can use, and I may be able to get some appropriate plastic mouldings for the solebars at St Albans show next week Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Bit of a testing time fitting the sides and ends together, first set first time. Second took 3 goes, Still its there now and the floor is made, will attach the floor to one side and end tonight and let it set. Have put an order into Zam Zoodled tonight for another set of chopper couplings http://www.zamzoodled.co.uk/Track_Parts/cat782234_2045645.aspx I have one set (4 sets of couplings) decided to get another along with a height fitting gauge Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Traxson Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 That must be an old kit John, I've been supplying wheels and bogies with the kit for ten years now! The instructions are an A4 sheet now too. The floor will be oversize as I always suggest putting the pairs of side and end together to form a rectangle then measuring, cutting and fitting the floor. The instructions may have changed over the years with experience and customer feedback. With modern photo technology I am in the slow process of adding photo's of the build to my instructions, but unfortunately that doesn't help you at the moment. Phil T. Port Wynnstay Models Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ngtrains.com Posted January 6, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2014 Glue........ Epoxy would have been my last choice. Phil and I disagree on what glue to use but neither of us would choose epoxy. Phil favours Evo Stick contact glue. I'll leave him to justify it if he feels like it but I always end up with stringy glue everywhere. I favour Cyanoacrylate (Superglue) and use the runny stuff. With that you can get the joint all lined up and then, having poured a spot out on to a plastic lid, pick some up with a wire and place it on the join. Capillary action will wick it in to the join. Check the join is square and move on. Once the box is square and complete you can always run a bit more glue in. Other things you can do with superglue is fill holes and reinforce joins with a bit of filler. If you have a air bubble hole in the resin fill it with baking powder and drip superglue on to it. When its hard you can file and smooth it. Also if you really want to butch up a joint stick it initially and then, when dry, add a little baking powder and spread, hold and tap the model so the baking powder forms an even fillet along the join. When the powder is where you want it drip on some superglue. The powder absorbs it and becomes a rock hard fillet. You shouldn't need to do that in a simple coach though. Once the floor is in it'll be a rigid box without fillets Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 Phil and Paul Thanks very much for taking the time and trouble in giving me free advice. This was an Ebay buy and as I paid half the price of a new one I thought it was worth the gamble. I can even afford to buy a set of bogies, hopefully I think I will be in the market for either a 5 compartment or a saloon to keep it company. I have fitted an end to each side, but my attempt of fitting a floor last night failed for a couple of reasons. I see with the brake coach I have widens slightly at the guards compartment. I am fitting a 60 thou floor 4mm above the coach side bottom so the seats/compartment tops match the same height as the ends. I thought super glue would be fine, but the chap at the shop (who makes expensive resin aircraft kits) said super glue was no good as it degrades after 10 years!!! Whats a good make, I use a runny make from B&Q by Locktite. But wondered if one of the Zap or whatever they are called would do. I decided against impact adhesive as I thought it may be a bit thick. I am waiting till I have a body built before deciding about the seats, as I think they may need a bit of a sand flat and some of the partitions removing. I will paint the body before fitting the seats as per the instructions. Also interested in one of your tenders for a Peco Hunslet conversion Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ngtrains.com Posted January 6, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 6, 2014 All superglues are not created equal http://www.ngtrains.com/Pages/Glues/gluestools.html#Glues Dr Mikes is all I use now. Its expensive but doesn't go off in the bottle, doesn't clog the tip as long as you remember to tap it when you put it down (clears glue out of the tip) and lasts forever as long as you don't knock it over. Mine has a place in a desk tidy that stops it falling over and spilling. This stuff doesn't go off by absorbing moisture but by excluding air. The Dr Mikes #1 also responds well to accelerator sprays to speed the setting. Most glue usage, be it superglue or solvent, seem to be down to spillage as all model supplies seem to be in bottles designed to be knocked or fall over. Taking the brush out of solvent is favourite for just flicking the bottle over. Two cunning fixes for this. Ink or Onions. Get an old Quinck ink bottle as they are low and flat needing a real effort to knock them over. Alternatively, there is a brand of caramelised onion jam that goes lovely in a cheese butty but happens to come in a tonka square glass jar that will break your brush before it falls over. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 6, 2014 Author Share Posted January 6, 2014 Thanks lads for the assistance, a touch of superglue and all together in seconds Last night I did glue some very thin 4mm strips of plasticard to the bottom of the sides and ends and with the help of 1mm square microstrip, so was able to fit the floor with solvent. Now a nice firm box, Here are the seats supplied, seem to be 2 slightly different types. Reading the instructions I now need to trim these to size before installation, but first to paint the body and build the roof. Oh yes I have some old cast bogies and need to find the 9mm wheels I bought Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 Not much done ad I have been waiting for a few bits and timeAs can be seen it's in primer and I will follow the instructions and will paint it before fitting the seats, at a bit of a loss at what colour to use, Apple Green may make a change. I need to work out the correct ride height as I want to fit Zam Zoodle couplings.I have decided to get some Chivers wagons to match the size of the coach as its is quite compact, the Peco one looks a bit big. I do have some larger coaches (Ffestiniog bogie coaches) which may be better with the Peco wagonsThese are the Zam Zoodle couplings. The white coupling pockets are the older versions and the square one's are the newer versions. Just need to get my head around how to fit them and get them working Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Traxson Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Thanks lads for the assistance, a touch of superglue and all together in seconds 20140106_200259_resized.jpg Last night I did glue some very thin 4mm strips of plasticard to the bottom of the sides and ends and with the help of 1mm square microstrip, so was able to fit the floor with solvent. Now a nice firm box, 20140106_200844_resized.jpg Here are the seats supplied, seem to be 2 slightly different types. Reading the instructions I now need to trim these to size before installation, but first to paint the body and build the roof. Oh yes I have some old cast bogies and need to find the 9mm wheels I bought The seats are two types, they are designed to fit the "Peco" 4 wheeled 0-16.5 coaches and are slightly different to fit the ribs inside the sides and ends on these. If it helps you at all in your build, the present kits are supplied with "Hornby" 10.5mm diameter wagon wheels and axles and "Gibson" pinpoint bearings with "Ratio" 00 bogies. "Here's one I made Earlier"! The added solebars are just lengths of "Evergreen" plastic channel. Phil T. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted January 16, 2014 Author Share Posted January 16, 2014 Phil Thanks, I have some metal castings for some form of diamond frame bogies, also some Romford/Markits 9mm wheels. My main concern is the Height of the buffer beam as I will be using the Zam Zoodle couplings. I am building a Slimlines 2 plank wagon (as in the photo) and have another on order. I thought it easier to fit the couplings to 4 wheeled wagons first then progress to bogie and locos next. As I said I will follow your instructions by painting the body first and worry about the undercarriage later. Please keep the tips coming as they are super models Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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