Gordon A Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 I've just installed Kadee No. 18 couplers into the NEM pockets on three Bachmann wagons. They work brilliantly, and are just the right length for shunting wagons around 24" radius curves. The No. 17 couplers are 1.5mm shorter, and would require all wagons to have sprung buffers if they are to work properly. I think that this is about as close-coupled as is practical without sprung buffers and/or using a 0.3mm wire between the buffers to prevent buffer-lock, or using much larger radius curves. They should work on 18" trainset curves. I will be using uncoupler magnets on each of the sidings, although I think I'll use the small rare-earth magnets either side of the track, which will be hidden in the ballast rather than the proprietary kadee products. Hi hartleymartin, Does using rare earth magnets either side of the track work on uncoupling kadees? What size magnets, and in what position do you locate them? I have not seen this mentioned as an option anywhere before. I have a friend building a US switching layout and he is not happy about using the large kadee magnets. Gordon A Bristol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shedman Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 Hi hartleymartin, Does using rare earth magnets either side of the track work on uncoupling kadees? What size magnets, and in what position do you locate them? I have not seen this mentioned as an option anywhere before. I have a friend building a US switching layout and he is not happy about using the large kadee magnets. Gordon A Bristol I cut kadee magnets in two using a tile cutter. After scribing I fasten it in the vice up to the line, grasp it with pliers and bend it. Being ceramic they snap in half. It helps to wear goggles in case of shattering, but I've had no problems with this. Trevor Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 14, 2014 Author Share Posted February 14, 2014 There is a youtube clip which shows them. I'll look it up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 14, 2014 Author Share Posted February 14, 2014 Here it is. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 14, 2014 Author Share Posted February 14, 2014 Actually, this is the one I was thinking of. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 Thanks martin. The first clip is a appears to be a better alternative. Gordon A Bristol Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheCuckoo Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 Food for thought, those couplings. Hmmmm... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 Being in Australia, these are virtually standard in the local HO scale modeling. They work well, and being made in America there is a huge supply of them. For the most part, No. 18 NEM mount kadee couplings will sort you out. No. 19 have a lonrr shank if you have a problem with tight curves. If you have 24" radius or more and sprung buffers you can get virtually scale coupling distance with the No. 17 couplers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 Photos will follow soon. Did a little ballasting. Found that the traditional methods for woodlands scenic ballast don't really work that well. I've taken to applying neat PVA on the sides of the track and pouring it on, followed by putting more ballast in the middle of the track, wetting down then dribbling watered down pva. I might try using a mixture with isopropyl alcohol, because it doesn't have the surface tension of water. I cannot finish the ballasting until the uncoupler magnets have been installed and properly tested and then the point motors installed, wired and working properly. Just waiting on parts to arrive in the mail (magnets, switches, etc) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMR CHRIS Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Hi Martin re your mix and problems I guess keeping the ballast in place. "wetting down then dribbling watered down pva. I might try using a mixture with isopropyl alcohol, because it doesn't have the surface tension of water." You missed an important ingredient to stop the "surface tension" for this I use a cheap washing detergent a good few drops in the Pva/water mix this will allow the mix to flow without sticking or balling up the Ballast, ie no surface tension to create balls of liquid that the ballast stick to and suck up into or wash it away from the desired location. PVA glue make sure you choose one that is acid free or you may get some corrosion/oxidation have seen this in more recent times as the cheap Pva's hit the market some have quite a high acidic content that will send the nickel silver rail a green colour as it oxidises not helpful for electrical conductivity. Good luck with the rest of the Ballasting will see you at the Aus 7 Expo this weekend. Happy Modelling Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyMay Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 You do realise that the "J94" isn't a J94 but an austerity tank. J94 is a classification given by the LNER (and BR) to its austerities. So J94s were owned by the LNER, whereas yours is clearly marked LMR (i.e. Longmoor Military Railway) so it's owned by the Army, not the LNER. So J94s are a subset of austerities. All J94s were austerities, but not all austerities were J94s. Consider jelly beans. J94s are like strawberry flavoured jellybeans. Other jellybean flavours are available. You have a banana flavoured jellybean, so to call it strawberry flavoured is a tad silly! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LNER_Class_J94 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted February 26, 2014 Author Share Posted February 26, 2014 I was aware of this, but there is less typing involved with "J94" than "Austerity Tank." Probably a force of habit, especially since I have a J72, and had considered purchasing a J83 and perhaps the old Lima J50. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 Tests and trials with the magnets that I purchased did not give satisfactory results. No more progress shall be made until this is sorted out. I recently learned that at Bunnings (Australian equivalent of B&Q I think) started selling Extruded foam sheets. I may discard the timber baseboard all together and re-lay onto foam. The frame has developed a pronounced bow which I am unhappy with. I may also opt to install the point motors under the track as an alternative to above-board mountings. Three steps forward and two steps back, but this is a hobby and it is meant to keep me out of trouble. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted March 25, 2014 Author Share Posted March 25, 2014 After faffing about with the kadee couplers, I decided to try the trick with office staples on the original backmann tension-lock couplings. Much to my infuriation, they work brilliantly and require considerably less precision with the magnets (and much smaller magnets) than the kadee couplings demand. I am wondering if I should just switch back to the Bachmann small tension-lock couplings, since I do not require delayed-action uncoupling on this layout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenDiesel Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 I've heard good reports about the office staple method -- I believe there was a helpful thread on this forum a few years ago. I've also decided to keep using the tension lock couplings. I've had a lot of success using the Peco uncoupling ramps -- they work well with MOST of my rolling stock. Cheers, Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CourthsVeil Posted June 26, 2014 Share Posted June 26, 2014 Hi Martin, Hope it's all well at yours, it's been a bit quiet here? Armin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted June 28, 2014 Author Share Posted June 28, 2014 Holiday project. I had a semester of college interrupt things. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmanjack Posted June 28, 2014 Share Posted June 28, 2014 G'day Martin, Just read the whole thread, interesting so far. I started building an Inglenook (LInden Ford) only 3 days prior to the beginning of your first post. In regards to uncoupling, I am still using tension lock and I have used a simple home made, manual, under track mechanism, to uncouple wagons (got the idea off RMweb). Here is a short video of the uncoupler in action ; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClV2Kj_PcEs More on Linden Ford can be found here ; http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=12116&forum_id=21 I'm looking foward to further updates on your plank. Keep up the good work and let us know which way you go with couplers, Kadee or Bachmann TL/staples. Cheers, Gary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 47137 Posted July 16, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 16, 2014 At the moment I find that the wagons are too free-running. I think some phosphor-bronze strip will be needed to put a brake onto one axle on each wagon to stop them from running away down the sidings. I think some lead fishing weights will also need to go inside the vans, and underneath removable loads in the open wagons. If excessively free running is still a problem, try small blocks of foam pushed in between the axles and the floor. You can pull them out if you ever want to use the wagons in long trains on another layout. The biggest problem I have with Kadees is having to hold a wagon to make it couple up and not trundle away from the approaching loco. - Richard. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmanjack Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 I have added anywhere between 15-20 grams of lead to help weigh the wagons down. This takes most of my 4 wheel stock up and over 50 grams, but it helps with coupling and uncoupling using Kadees. Cheers, Gary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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