ozzyo Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Hello all, one of my daft mates was talking about building some points for a Ex. G.W.R. and mentioned the the rails had a joggle in them and how could he do them. you need a joggle jig for that, I said. I can't do that he said, but you can! Talk about making work for yourself. The fist problem was I didn't have any metal of the size that I wanted, so I had to start with this, The firs job was to mill the the top face flat (as above). The next was to mill the step. (I'm going to make the two parts out of this one piece). The first centre drilled hole Two holes now drilled for the locating dowels Spot drilling hole No. 3 Reaming hole No. 3 All four of the holes drilled and reamed, the next job is to split the two parts. I'm not looking forward to that, The two parts were split (a big hacksaw works well in this case). I did do some more work on the side pieces after I had spit them The two parts of the joggle jig after the locating pegs had been fitted. You will see that I have M/C a small step on both edges this is so that F/B raill could also be bent in the jig (rubbish its because bullhead rail has a wider bottom than the top) The two parts getting read for some fun, Trying to show how a length of rail will fit in the jig As a test I don't think these are that bad? OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
buffalo Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Interesting idea. I must admit that first reaction was what's wrong with the age old method of squeezing the rail between a couple of shims in the vice jaws. However, I'm used to doing this with 4mm (code 75) steel rail which is really quite soft and 7mm n/s might be a bit tougher. Nevertheless, I'm warming to the idea and might go and give the mill a bit of exercise later. One question, would it not have been easier to ensure alignment of the holes if you cut and mill the two halves first then clamp them together for drilling and reaming? Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 25, 2014 Author Share Posted February 25, 2014 Hello Nick, all, if I'd had some 3/4" X 1/4" brass I'd have done it just about the same way, but I'd only drilled and reamed two in each piece. I'm just used to working in production M/Cing set the job up for an operation then move onto the next until the job is done. If the M/C has good indexes you should have no problems. The next thing I'm going to try is annealing the rail before bending it. I'll do that after tea. OzzyO. PS, this rail has about 4X the cross section of code 75 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 Come on man, crack on, there's no time for a cuppa and a biccy. And make sure you take it to the post office in the morning, as my P/Way team are getting restless. Best regards, Your " daft mate " from darn sarf... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 Hello all, before I posted the device to its new track gang, I had a go with it on some annealed rail. I did these at two temperatures, the one on the left at a bright red heat and the one on the right at cherry red. I think that the one on the left has come out better. Both were done at the same time so all things being equal the same pressure in the vice. OzzyO. PS, have you got all of the point vees made yet??????????????????? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted February 27, 2014 Share Posted February 27, 2014 OzzyO. PS, have you got all of the point vees made yet??????????????????? Yeah, yeah, yeah. Well two of the three, the third one continued on to the next joggle . ATB, Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 Hello all, after the joggle jig comes the rail web drilling jig, this is for the two stretcher bars that run between the switch rails and also drilling the running rail webs as it appears that the G.W.R. ran the stretchers through the running rails. The starting point (sorry) a length of brass 5/8" X 1/4" X 2 1/2", this was milled on three sides and one end. This was marked out for two slots, Starting to rough out the rail slot, for this I'm using a 3mm cutter, The two slots roughed out, these two slots have three different depths, After milling to the finished size a small amount of fitting was required to make sure that the rail fitted, Adding the clamp bar (L/H/) and the clamp bar and drilling bar, these are from some 1/16" thick brass, After milling up the edges of the bars the four longitudinal centre lines were marked out, After drilling, from the left drilling hole, clamping hole, drilling hole and clamping hole, After tapping the clamping holes 10BA, I'm thinking about drilling and tapping the wider side of the plates 8BA to add a bit more strength to the soldered joints, About all I have to do now is to turn up some silver steel drilling bushes to help stop any ware to the drilling holes and make a stop gate that will fit in the cross slot. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 Superb Matey, you will go down in history at Church Norton as there finest ever p/way engineer. That's a few more pints I owe you . ATB, Martyn. PS. The timing could not have been better as my next track panel is a crossover incorporating a single slip on a slight curve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted April 14, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 14, 2015 I'm always impressed by someone who knows their way around machine tools. Take this as a craftsmanship/clever for the whole thread. Mike. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted April 18, 2015 Author Share Posted April 18, 2015 Hello all, the drilling jigs are finished, so just a few photos to show them in the full. I did fit three 8BA screws in the large part of the brass base plate along with two steel drilling buttons, To give a bit of adjustment to the positions of the holes I made this gate it gives adjustment from 0 to 1/8" with a 1/16" step, this should give a nice fit in the joggle with a minimum of metal loss, Showing the positions with some rail in position, short toe, Middle toe, Long toe, Showing the jig with a joggled stock rail in place, While on the M/Cs I also did another joggle jig with a bit more step to the joggle, the first rails been tested, One of them removed from the jig, the step looks a bit big but is only 0.5mm OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jol Wilkinson Posted April 18, 2015 Share Posted April 18, 2015 Hello all, one of my daft mates was talking about building some points for a Ex. G.W.R. and mentioned the the rails had a joggle in them and how could he do them. you need a joggle jig for that, I said. I can't do that he said, but you can! OzzyO. Daft and GWR in the same sentence. How delightful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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