Peco flexi track

[michaelp]

I have normally used Hornby track for straights and curves in the past but with a new layout looming I want to use Peco Flexi track, I have never used this before can anyone give me some hints on getting it right first time with regard to forming curves and leading away from turnouts etc.

 

Any advice would be gratefully received.

Thanks in advance.

 

Michael

[steveb860]

Advisable to buy a set of Tracksetta to help in forming the curves

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Is this a clean break from all past track? If so, and you are committed to using Peco for this first flexi track adventure, then go directly to the code 75 range. It's a damn sight easier to form smooth curvature - and especially smooth joints in curved track - as compared to code 100. Quite simply it is half the rail cross section, so forming a piece of code 75 is equivalent to setting the same curve in a single code 100 rail.

 

Also, go with live crossings. Yes, added wiring complexity, but the operational reliability gain is significant.

 

Curvature, point radii. GO LARGE! If you can, stick to the medium radius point and larger, and make plain track curvature as big as possible. I experimented at length before my present layout building and found that with my personal track laying ability, I need to lay running line curves of 30" radius or larger for complete reliability with full size trains.

 

Draw out your scheme many times before laying the track. Do as much of the play around on paper before moving on to the hardware.

[HLT 0109]

Michael,

 

I am sure you are right to use Peco flexitrack wherever you can.  I have used Hornby set track and moved on to Peco flexi.  What I would recommend is that you avoid Hornby flexitrack as it doesn't curve as easily as Peco's and the rail breaks from the plastic chairs very easily.  You will need to buy rail joiners as flexi does not come with them, and you will need a means of cutting the rail to the required length - a good mini-drill is best in my opinion.  If you want curves to be a constant radius you probably need a suitable template which Peco also supplies but, unless I am using sharp curves, I find it easy enough to make the curves by eye.  In order to create a curve, you will need to secure one end of the flexi in the desired position (probably connected to a turnout) , then manipulate the rest of the length as necessary, securing it as you go.  I would suggest light fixing initially to facilitate adjustment.  Leading to/away from turnouts, (and making joins within curves) you need to ensure continuation of the curve without any kink at the join.  Templates are helpful in that respect.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Harold.

[Pacific231G]

Some years ago I came back to modelling after a break and decided to build a simple H0 layout to get back into the swing. I used Peco Code 100 and, though it's not too bad when painted and ballasted and I did widen Peco's sleeper spacing to give more of a branchline feel, it does shout out its overheaviness in every  photo.

So, I think  I'd agree about Code 75, though some old wheel standards don't like it, but in any case be prepared to take a lot more time and care over tracklaying and particularly over the dead flatness of the trackbed.

 

The other thing I've discovered the hard way is that it's a lot easier to lay track in a very gentle curve than dead straight.

 

The one thing I'v never regretted buying, though they're not cheap, is a Xuron railcutter. You're going to be cutting rail quite a lot and these things, though they may seem a bit pricey are worth every penny, they're far better than razor saws, cutting discs or anything else and make a really clean cut. Just never ever use them for anything other than cutting rail as it ruins them very quickly. My new cutter has a label stuck to it saying NO!!

Edited March 3, 2014 by Pacific231G

[Ron Ron Ron]

As mentioned above, a set of Tracksetta templates can be very useful, but don't miss out on the opportunity to include easements or transition radii at the beginning/end of any curves.

 

David mentioned the Xuron cutters. There are several different types of Xuron cutter, including (at least?) two different versions of rail cutter. 

Practise on some off-cuts or old bits of rail first if you can, rather than wasting decent lengths of rail and do wear some protective glasses.

 

Gently file a slight smooth chamfer on the ends of rail before trying to fit rail joiners. It will make life easier and probably save a fair bit of frustration.

 

 

.

[BR60103]

At the ends of each section you will need to make provision in the sleeper for the rail joiner. I put the track at the edge of the table and cut a curved piece out under the chair. (OK, I've been doing this for half a century now). Or you can cut off a sleeper and put a dummy in, but it always looks different.

You will probably have to fiddle the space on the end sleeper on points. I always found that one set didn't have enough space for a plastic joiner and many don't have enough length for a full one. (The one I bought last week did! It's been re-designed.)

 

The Xuron cutters do a quick job but they still leave burrs and things on the rail ends. Make sure you use the the right way round -- the flat side to the bit of rail you're keeping.

Don't try to save rail by sliding the joints around on the inside rail; it's not worth the trouble and looks awful.

 

Get the widest variety of Tracksettas you can. Use them to check the radius for the points as Peco's website has some extremely dubious figures.

[PAL]

If your preferred cutting method is a razor saw, the only aggravation factor is having to hold the damn track still while you cut it. It used to bring me out in a light sweat and make my finger-ends and arm ache. But it's easy-peasy with a simple jig which will take you less that half an hour to make.

 

Get a scrap piece of softwood, say 4in x 4in x 1/2 inch. With a tenon or other stiff-bladed saw cut two parallel grooves down the middle of one of the 4in faces wide and deep enough to hold both rails fairly tightly. Across the same face,at right angles to the two grooves you've just cut, saw two more in parallel, this time 1/4in-3/8in apart, say 1/4 in deep. Chop out the wood between this second pair of cuts with a thin chisel or if you haven't got one, you can gouge it out less tidily but well enough with a Stanley knife. Then you clip the length of rail into the first pair of grooves so that your intended cut is over your saw-pit, the channel you made between the second pair.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Yet another rail cutting method. Rotary tool, flexidrive, fine abrasive slitting disc. Wheem, Wheem, done. No clean up required. Makes square cuts with the track in situ, because the flexi drive lets you get the disc perpendicular to the rail. This method doubly pays off when modifiying already laid and fixed down track, for example to insert a point. Just chop out the exact length that you are substituting.

 

Essential personal equipment with the rotary tool, safety goggles. No exception: no goggles, do not use rotary tool.

 

On the subject of fixing down track. I favour the drawing pin, with the spike going between the sleepers, so that the head just lightly clamps two sleepers. There is small side to side adjustment available, and once the track is glued down the pins are removed (and may be reused) ready for ballasting. You can either trial fit the track on a drawn out plan on the baseboard, then lift it, apply a thin film of adhesive (PVA the usual choice) and lay the track adjusting the fine positioning before the adhesive goes off. Or you can lay the track to fit, securing with drawing pins, and once satisfied just 'wash in' the PVA, diluted about 50%. That does require that the baseboard material isn't going to warp or deform if a little damp.

 

Alternative to gluing, use double sided sticky tape, or spray the surface with 'Spraymount' adhesive (there are competing products but the 3M one is the dog's danglies in my experience). This works very well, is a little more expensive, you'll want good ventialtion with the Spraymount unless you like visiting the Moon.

[Silver Sidelines]

This is Code 100 - it would probably look even better if I darkened the sides of the rail.  I have carried on using Code 100 because that is what was available in the 1980s.  I am not sure what I would do now if starting afresh - probably look at code 75.

 

In defence of Code 100 I would say it is robust.  Also with the larger rail sections and using old fashioned DC control I have never needed to use extra switches at points (mine are all electrofrog) and have been able to rely on the contacts at the point blades.. This could be a huge plus.

 

Visually every man and their dog will have their own views.  I would observe that because Code 100 has a thicker rail section and that the width over the heads at about 18.8mm is larger than for Code75 and will help mitigate the under scale gauge.

 

Yes use mini cutting discs - anything else and you are likely to deform the adjacent length of rail.  Yes chamfeur the cut rail ends - makes life much less painful.

 

Good luck

 

Ray

Edited March 4, 2014 by Silver Sidelines

[kevinlms]

I've posted this link before. It shows the relevant dimensions of Peco turnouts.

 

http://rmcq.org.au/worksheets_free/peco_turnout_dimensions.pdf

 

[michaelp]

Thanks for all the replies chaps,

 

I had messed around with Hornby flexible track a while back but going off what I have read in all your informative replies the Peco track is way better than Hornby.

 

I will get some Peco Flexi and have a play around with it.

 

Thanks again guy's

 

Michael

[John Tomlinson]

I'd reinforce many of the points made above:

 

Xurons for cutting - priceless, and in fact at £12ish not that expensive. Do carefully file the rail ends after cutting, to ensure the web is clear and a slight chamfer on the rail head.

 

Code 75, go for it as starting from scratch, although the final appearance of any track is significantly improved by painting the sides cruddy brown. Only the railhead shines, as a glimpse at the prototype proves.

 

Live frog points - definitely give better, read smoother, running. Like Ray above, I've relied on the blades touching for electrical contact, rather than additional wires and switches. This has worked fine for me over many years but is regarded as heresy by some! If you do paint the sides of the rails, keep the paint well away from point blades and pivots, as it will mess with the electrical current flow.

 

Peco offer a range of curved points, ie both rails curved rather than a staight section with a curved branch. On my roundy roundy layout I've used these almost exclusively, and IMHO it helps the illusion of realism quite a bit.

 

Curves, maximise the radius and set a definite minimum that won't be breached - that way you can be confident that your stock won't refuse at the same tight point everytime.

 

Gradients, minimise, if applicable you can halve the ruling gradient by making one line rise whilst the one going under it falls.

 

Good luck!

 

John.

Edited March 6, 2014 by John Tomlinson

[shortliner]

One small point that nobody has mentioned - when you have cut your rail (by whatever means) and chamfered the end, also run a file (or a carborundum slitting disc GENTLY under the flat bottom to remove any distortion or burr left by the cutting tool - you will then get the rail-joiner to slide on MUCH more easily

[philsandy]

Thanks for all the replies chaps,

 

I had messed around with Hornby flexible track a while back but going off what I have read in all your informative replies the Peco track is way better than Hornby.

 

I will get some Peco Flexi and have a play around with it.

 

Thanks again guy's

 

Michael

 

C&L and SMP flexitrack is much more realistic looking than Peco, although it is rather flimsy and not as robust.

[retiredoperator]

Hi Folks. I am replacing a length of Peco Code 75 flexitrack,that was already laid,but, the metal fishplates came off the rails, and I am having a juice of a job getting the fishplates back on the rail ends. They slipped off easy enough, can someone please give me the answer.

Happy modelling Kev

[chris p bacon]

If you have cut the track to length, then there might be a burr on the rail sides or bottom that needs removing with a file.

[Il Grifone]

Hi Folks. I am replacing a length of Peco Code 75 flexitrack,that was already laid,but, the metal fishplates came off the rails, and I am having a juice of a job getting the fishplates back on the rail ends. They slipped off easy enough, can someone please give me the answer.

Happy modelling Kev

 

Ensure there are no burrs on the ends of the rails and possibly file a slight taper on the sides of the web, Failing that, prise the joiner slightly more open. It needs to be tight to make contact and keep the rails in alignment so do not exagerate.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Is this the old rail joiners are too tight on the new length of track? Slightly ease open the rail joiners before fitting, or run a needle file on the rail ends,  underside and rail sides, until the rail joiner slides on. (Implication is that the newer rail is slightly greater in cross-section.)