RMweb Gold 57xx Posted September 6, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 6, 2015 You done a cracking job with the Jinty, Trevor. Looking forward to seeing the final details added. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted September 7, 2015 Author Share Posted September 7, 2015 Ok I dont know whats going on with my red paint. I promise you all, its red, Testors 1150 Fl. Red. It looks red in person. I guess you all just have to come visit me over in the States to see. Today I lettered the Jinty. Gloss varnish to help the decals stick, which it didnt exactly do. Maybe this sheet of Fox transfers was a little off. Anyone know how their QC is? So the struggle with the numbers sorted itself out eventually. Ill shut up and let the pictures do the talking. Coal load is still waiting for the glue to dry. After, Ill dusty it up with some powders to take off some of the shine from the glue. And one thing that struck me as odd about 16448 is its wasnt fitted with screw couplings. Least not in the photo I have. While every Jinty Ive seen photos of, regardless of condition, has screw link, this one has 3 links. Its hard to believe I started this 8 months ago back in February. With so much time wasted waiting for wheels, then body, then nerve, and then paint, Im a bit relieved its finally "Done". I still need to fix the wheels, but thats not of worry right now. And I have just gotten word that the Cauliflower kit is in, and is preparing for shipment. Also, Ive placed an order for a couple wagon kits and some bits to possibly start on scratchbuilding an L&Y bogie van. So I should have some more work to do in a week or two. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 (edited) Well Ive been busy. I received my two wagon kits and have almost finished one. A gloucester built LMS van. This wagon really highlighted why I hate building Cambrian steel chassis. I managed to build the chassis up perfectly flat and when I went to put the body on, there was over a millimeter of wobble. Though I am impressed there actually are vents on this van. And another LMS goods wagon. This being my fourth. And Im doing something different. Although I wont really be able to run this wagon, I already have 3 so this can become a nice static display. And for the big addition. Ill be working on this for a while, especially as Im still having issues getting wheels. At least this time I started the wheel search before buying the kit....didnt help much. So without wheels, theres not much to do besides body work. Tender chassis is mostly finished. Cant attach brake gear until I get wheels. But that hasnt stopped work. Compared to the Jinty. Finally, the bufferbeam doesnt look pink. Edited September 19, 2015 by Spitfire2865 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR lives on Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 Loving the Jinty, she is a beautiful model Did you use a grey undercoat on the body? It might be worth trying a deeper colour under the red to help it look darker The cauliflower tender looks brilliant too. Have you decided on the specific loco as yet? I think I have a photo somewhere of a cauliflower which had crewe wheels (If memory is right it was a batch of 10 locos only built with crewe wheels) which are available. Just a thought which might solve your problem Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR lives on Posted September 19, 2015 Share Posted September 19, 2015 Ref. A Compendium of LNWR Locomotives 1912-1964. Part Two, Goods Tender Engines. W.B.Yeadon "2464 here at Crewe South shed in September 1925, still has the cast iron 12 spoke H-section wheels which were fitted to the first ten built in 1880-82." Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted September 19, 2015 Author Share Posted September 19, 2015 (edited) Loving the Jinty, she is a beautiful model Did you use a grey undercoat on the body? It might be worth trying a deeper colour under the red to help it look darker The cauliflower tender looks brilliant too. Have you decided on the specific loco as yet? I think I have a photo somewhere of a cauliflower which had crewe wheels (If memory is right it was a batch of 10 locos only built with crewe wheels) which are available. Just a thought which might solve your problem Dave For the Jinty bufferbeam, yes grey primer, but the matt varnish helped dull down the red. I think the camera just couldnt capture the true red until I sprayed the matt on it. And for the Cauliflower, I already have an intended loco, fitted with standard spoked wheels. My issue with wheels is Markits ordering, rather than availability of suitable wheels. The whole issue isnt something to be discussed on a forum and would be an overall negative discussion for all parties. Just understand Ive ordered the wheels, but there is issue with obtaining them. Edited September 19, 2015 by Spitfire2865 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted September 20, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 20, 2015 Well Ive been busy. I received my two wagon kits and have almost finished one. A gloucester built LMS van. image.jpg This wagon really highlighted why I hate building Cambrian steel chassis. I managed to build the chassis up perfectly flat and when I went to put the body on, there was over a millimeter of wobble. They are a pain, aren't they! The problem is a small discrepancy on the underframe mouldings that gets mirrored on opposite corners when built, doubling the error and wobble. I think I've finally discovered the trick to doing them now though. Before gluing the W iron moulding to the back of the solebar, you need to sparingly trim off the top of the spring hangers so you can get the W irons exactly level. If you don't trim these bits, then the ends of the springs foul on the solebar and don't sit straight. The highlighted bits are where I mean, you can see on the left where I have trimmed them. This is a different Cambrian kit, LNER open, wooden solebar, but the problem and cure is exactly the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted September 20, 2015 Author Share Posted September 20, 2015 They are a pain, aren't they! The problem is a small discrepancy on the underframe mouldings that gets mirrored on opposite corners when built, doubling the error and wobble. I think I've finally discovered the trick to doing them now though. Before gluing the W iron moulding to the back of the solebar, you need to sparingly trim off the top of the spring hangers so you can get the W irons exactly level. If you don't trim these bits, then the ends of the springs foul on the solebar and don't sit straight. trim.jpg The highlighted bits are where I mean, you can see on the left where I have trimmed them. This is a different Cambrian kit, LNER open, wooden solebar, but the problem and cure is exactly the same. Actually, I find the wooden solebar models a joy to construct as there are locating tabs on both ends which are a bit of a tight fit. But thanks for that tip, I knew about cambrian moulding errors, but not about the spring issue there, Ill give that a shot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted September 20, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 20, 2015 Looking forward to seeing this cauliflower built, the tender looks good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 Wow. I didnt expect to move this quickly through this loco. Aside from brake rigging, the tender is finished waiting for wheels. I tried to add 2 lamp irons on the rear footplate but it just wouldnt take. Oh well. At least theres one on the tender. And the loco body is progressing. Although its at a point where Id like to get the chassis done, so that will need to wait a week as the wheels have Finally shipped! Glad to have that worry out of the way. Coming from the Jinty with resin boiler, the brass boiler here is both easy and difficult to work with. Doesnt help the firebox and smokebox are as straight as a corkscrew. At least its pretty straight in sideview. Wheels due in a week or so, so that means the wagon works are back open for a bit. Give myself a break from soldering fumes too. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted September 23, 2015 Share Posted September 23, 2015 Very impressive Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted September 23, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 23, 2015 The boiler looks good, did you have to roll it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted September 23, 2015 Author Share Posted September 23, 2015 The boiler looks good, did you have to roll it?No. Thankfully, it came prerolled from LRM, though the oxidation from annealing didnt help soldering it. What I dont understand is the handrail mounting holes. The forwardmost one is now behind the wrapper. Time to drill a new one I guess. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted September 27, 2015 Author Share Posted September 27, 2015 Well. When I said Id take a break from the Cauliflower till wheels arrived, I may have kept working. The body is now mostly complete. All that still needs to be done is cab and castings as well as a few odds and ends such as reversing lever and smokebox dart. But I didnt lie. The Spitfire Wagon Works have opened their doors once again and turned out a steel bodied van in photographic livery. Shame more wagons werent turned out with white tyres. It looks so much better than all over black underframes. And finally, a bit backwards, a 5 plank merchandise wagon has left the paint shop and is moving to the assembly line. Again, I tried the weathering I used for the Mousa kit and I think Ive found my new standard. What do you all think? So this week, Im expecting the wheels for the Cauliflower finally, major castings for it as well which were missing, as well as a new pin chuck drill set. Will be nice to have a drillbit less than half mil again. Broke all my smallest ones drilling dive brakes for a fruitless Dauntless kit. Can some manufacturer come out with a modern SBD Dauntless kit in a reasonable scale? That or a Polikarpov I-153. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted September 30, 2015 Author Share Posted September 30, 2015 The open is finished. The side door dropped. Now to wait for wheels and start the Cauliflower chassis. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted October 1, 2015 Author Share Posted October 1, 2015 Well wheels came in yesterday. And forgetting any homework that needed to be done, I rushed to knock out the chassis. Managed to get a flat chassis. Very happy on that front. But my least favourite bit, and Im sure you all will agree, coupling rods. Front rods are perfect, currently fiddling with the rear ones. Theres this tightness I cant seem to figure out. All crankpins seem to have a smooth and even turn, and the wheelbase is correct length, I know that much. Hmm...class has interrupted my work. But hopefully I can get it running smoothly by tonight. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR lives on Posted October 3, 2015 Share Posted October 3, 2015 She is really beginning to look the part, awesome work Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 The open is finished. image.jpg The side door dropped. image.jpg image.jpg Now to wait for wheels and start the Cauliflower chassis. That wood effect is exceptional.Love to know what you did. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 That wood effect is exceptional. Love to know what you did. It was rather simple really. A couple coats of Model Master Tan acrylic over primed plastic, followed by dry brushing of enamel silver, then light washes with a brownish gray acrylic wash. The tan and silver are painted only following the planks, and the first light wash is against the planks to get into the grooves, then subsequent washes with the planks to imitate wood grain. Once assembled, any damage to the wood is painted with tan and blended in with light washes in the same way. Finish corners with brown-gray weathering powder and thats that. Since this wagon was intended to be left open, I wanted to make sure I got a light yet dirty look. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 Well. I never expected the Cauliflower to progress so quickly. Missing castings arrived yesterday, so I took the opportunity to glue them in. Still need to redo the dome as its slightly off-center and it bothers me. And Im now working out pickups. Im having issues with designing them. Nothing I do can fit pickups to the rear drivers as there just isnt room with the motor. So Im going for first 4 wheels loco, all wheel tender pickup. Except how should I link them? Id prefer to not have them permanently coupled, but I cant see how I would not. Unless I buy a small plug, like how the RTR market does it. Anyone know a source? And finally, After months, I can finally say the Jinty is finished. Spot the difference! Ok, the brake rods are on, balance weights added, and the axle nuts are painted. I know crankpins should be silver, but I was lazy and had black on hand. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted October 9, 2015 Author Share Posted October 9, 2015 (edited) Not much has happened as of recently. Primed and painted, but yet to be varnished or liveried. Chassis finished for loco and tender but aside from that, I still have a few things to do till they are complete. Loco pickups are only on the front and middle drivers as the rears were too difficult to wire up. This causes poor pickup while the loco is alone. But it does run smoothly, and with power connected directly to the motor, it is beautiful. Luckily, I also added all wheel pickup to the tender, and... There lies the problem right now. I cant test the full pickup capability because I dont want to permanently couple the loco and tender, not because Id ever disconnect them, but incase I ever need to for maintenance or detailing. So, I ordered a Hornby spare 4 pin connector and socket online. That way, I can electrically connect the loco and tender. Now Im trying to work out how to make the drawbar not catch on the threads of the screws that secure it. Maybe just file down the threads where needed. But other than that, Ive been painting more little men. Loco crew for the Cauliflower. Im debating which fireman I should use, (3)shoveling, or (2)standing straight. Edited October 9, 2015 by Spitfire2865 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard i Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 shovelling but facing then tender as it looks different Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR lives on Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 Shoveling for me as well Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 Next time, why not use one of these small connectors? Two wires is fine for DC and there are plenty of places in the states that sell them. http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Products/Supplies/Connectors/QuickPlugConnectors.htm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spitfire2865 Posted October 9, 2015 Author Share Posted October 9, 2015 Next time, why not use one of these small connectors? Two wires is fine for DC and there are plenty of places in the states that sell them. http://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Products/Supplies/Connectors/QuickPlugConnectors.htm While I didnt know this existed, and thank you for the link, but they look a little fragile. Do you have experience? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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