alanbuttler Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Excellent work Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted December 7, 2014 Author Share Posted December 7, 2014 These are the parts that I bought for my 16xx, other makes are available and some of you may already have some so don't need to buy them. Alan Gibson 4849B - 4' 1½", 12 spoke, GWR wheels, OO/EM axles (x3) 4M127 - 7' 4"+7' 4" GWR Coupling rods 4M42B - Crankpin set (sufficient for 6 wheels) 4M53 - 25 x Handrail Knobs (short) 4M64 - 10 x bearing bushes for 1/8” axle 4M102 - GWR loco brake gear (wheels up to 5’2”) 4M637 - Smokebox door darts - turned brass (x2) 4M717 - GWR tank locomotive injectors (x2) High level Mashima 1015 motor 1.5mm dia shaft SlimLiner Compact + I had in stock: Some wire for handrails (and the rain strip and rear cab window bars) Paint Glue Transfers Cabside numberplates Mecanno nut and bolt Some wire for electrical connections A dremel (or similar) Some form of GWR type vacuum and steam heat pipes will also need to be obtained. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted January 4, 2015 Author Share Posted January 4, 2015 I have now built the 16xx up, I will change a few things to make it easier for anyone else but I am happier with it and so it will go on sale soonish. Anything painted comes with it (printed) except the brakes, anything not painted doesn't. I will paint it properly at some point. It looks better in real life Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marbelup Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Having been working on handrails myself lately, have you considered using a harder grade of brass wire for your handrails, as it would help get them straighter?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Having been working on handrails myself lately, have you considered using a harder grade of brass wire for your handrails, as it would help get them straighter?? I would have done that had I had a more brass wire. If I can find more I will change it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanbuttler Posted January 5, 2015 Share Posted January 5, 2015 Sorting the handrail wire with some 0.4mm and 0.7mm will really make a big difference, some finer detailing parts will also help lift what is a very good base design. I found that heating the wire first made it a lot easier to bend smoothly (with pliers!). AG Sprung buffers would could be another option over the 3D printed ones and would be relatively easy to fit, possibly listed as another option on shapeways? It would be good to see how the B9 creator would handle something like this your design Tom is top notch, its the quality of the print that can be improved on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Sorting the handrail wire with some 0.4mm and 0.7mm will really make a big difference, some finer detailing parts will also help lift what is a very good base design. I found that heating the wire first made it a lot easier to bend smoothly (with pliers!). AG Sprung buffers would could be another option over the 3D printed ones and would be relatively easy to fit, possibly listed as another option on shapeways? It would be good to see how the B9 creator would handle something like this your design Tom is top notch, its the quality of the print that can be improved on. Thanks for that tip, I don't have any other grades of wire apart from that thicker wire on the other handrails so I can't change it yet. I will look at changing the design to have the right diameter holes for the sprung buffers as a separate option. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 I modified the drawing as I have done on my model (e.g. moving the spacer under the cab as it fouled the motor/gearbox). Nothing very serious but nevertheless useful so it is now for sale again (see shapeways link). Post #152 has a list of everything I've bought for it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 As smaller items seem to be selling better, I have shifted work back onto the Series 2 Land rover. I'm currently filling out the front end to be printable. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 I've put the 16xx in beta now as it hasn't sold any copies so if you buy it could you let me know if there are any problems with the construction or any detail inaccuracies. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 So you can all see it move, I've done a quick video of it: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 Now I have it running, do any of you have any constructive comments about the model - are there things that should be changed to make it a better kit/model that would make it more saleable to you? Acting on advice I have removed the buffers, coupling hook, lamp irons and whistle as these could be replaced by better lost wax castings but is there anything else that people would want changed before they would buy it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted February 17, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2015 I think you've done a superb job mate, I have a little bit of feedback not necessarily about the kit itself, but more about your demonstration model - you really want this to be the best it can be to make it appealing to people. I would personally replace the handrails as they are a bit wonky and give the wrong impression about the kit as a whole as they do let it down a bit. I would also go over the whole kit with primer or a single colour as in it's current unfinished/part painted form it isn't really representative of the model. Hope this helps, sorry it's a bit negative but I think you are so close with this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Taz Posted February 17, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2015 I think Corbs is right. Also if you are wanting to produce a video demonstrating the model I would concentrate more on close up shots so we can properly see the detail and shape of the model. Perhaps some high quality photos here would help as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 Thanks for the advice both, I will make the changes as soon as I can. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted February 17, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2015 For what it's worth, I think your CAD work has been absolutely brilliant Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TrevorP1 Posted February 17, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 17, 2015 First let me say I think this is a brilliant effort of a much needed model and I wouldn't have a clue as how to do the things that you have! I think the mods you have made are certainly steps in the rght direction. I would also look at all the other moulded detail in conjunction with photographs, eg steps, hinges, chimney, safety valve bonnet, etc to see if any of it can be/needs to be, thinned down. Also suggest that the moulded handrail holes are not desirable, or could these be just a tiny dimple as a guide? The cabside number plate certainly needs to go as people will want to fit etched plates and will have to remove the moulded one first. For me, a good motto would be 'If in doubt, leave it out'. A accurate basic structure can be added to. One last point - and this may be the effects of the photographs (or my eyes!) - but do the axle centres on the chassis line up correctly with the splashers? Corbs point about an example in a coat of 'photographic grey' is a very good one. White and black not are good for 'technical' shots. That seems quite a list but we are talking about detail here and this very fact means that this is something worth working at to get it spot on. The Dapol Western went through dozens of pages of detailed discussion on points like this! I really do like the 16XX and I am hoping there will come a point when I can no longer resist pressing the 'Buy Now' button. Trevor Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
alanbuttler Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Hi Tom, I've just ordered your cut down version. I'll give detailing it a go and I'll get back to you with any ideas/comments for improvements. I think the biggest obstacle is the finish of the 'Strong & Flexible' material on Shapeways. It will need some kind of filler primer and sanding to lose the frosted look even if its painted properly. Note however I've not seen a print in that material first hand - just read peoples experiences! So I'll reserve judgement until it arrives Either way it will be nice little project to detail - I've a requirement for at least two 16xx's for Oswestry works Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 First let me say I think this is a brilliant effort of a much needed model and I wouldn't have a clue as how to do the things that you have! I think the mods you have made are certainly steps in the rght direction. Firstly thanks for taking the time to reply and the nice comments I would also look at all the other moulded detail in conjunction with photographs, eg steps, hinges, chimney, safety valve bonnet, etc to see if any of it can be/needs to be, thinned down. Having had a think about it, I may create a very basic version with no details on for the buyer to purchase. Also suggest that the moulded handrail holes are not desirable, or could these be just a tiny dimple as a guide? At the moment they barely show up when printed and are already only there as a guide - they just appear larger on the drawings than they are. The cabside number plate certainly needs to go as people will want to fit etched plates and will have to remove the moulded one first. As mentioned a few pages back, the cabside plate is only raised by 0.2mm (just enough for it to show in this material) and is there as a guide only for placing etched plates. One last point - and this may be the effects of the photographs (or my eyes!) - but do the axle centres on the chassis line up correctly with the splashers? I think it must be the photograph, they line up on my 3d drawing and model. That seems quite a list but we are talking about detail here and this very fact means that this is something worth working at to get it spot on. The Dapol Western went through dozens of pages of detailed discussion on points like this! I really do like the 16XX and I am hoping there will come a point when I can no longer resist pressing the 'Buy Now' button. Trevor I too hope that, correcting the items you mention here should (!) be a simple job. Feel free to point out any other errors in the model as you see them. One thing you didn't mention is the back head which I only put a few basic controls on. Regarding your point about if I'm not sure, I think I will take these off for the very basic model as they aren't normally seen, but should be improved if the rest of the model was having detail added. Hi Tom, I've just ordered your cut down version. I'll give detailing it a go and I'll get back to you with any ideas/comments for improvements. I think the biggest obstacle is the finish of the 'Strong & Flexible' material on Shapeways. It will need some kind of filler primer and sanding to lose the frosted look even if its painted properly. Note however I've not seen a print in that material first hand - just read peoples experiences! So I'll reserve judgement until it arrives Either way it will be nice little project to detail - I've a requirement for at least two 16xx's for Oswestry works Good to hear, If it's too much of a problem then I will put one in FUD. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 I've replaced the side handrails and painted it up - only in matt black to start with, satin will follow. Hope you enjoy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 57xx Posted February 22, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 22, 2015 I think you've done an awesome job so far Tom. The only thing I can spot immediately is the shape of the top feed. I'd refer to this photo and check out how the ends are rounded and also have a slight angle on them. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 Thank you, I will attend to that this week. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 It looks like a promising basis on which to work. I think brass frames are available from AGW, along with all the other bits for running gear. A pity that the bevel-and-spur box didn't quite come off - I do hope you might try having another go at it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted March 20, 2015 Author Share Posted March 20, 2015 It looks like a promising basis on which to work. I think brass frames are available from AGW, along with all the other bits for running gear. A pity that the bevel-and-spur box didn't quite come off - I do hope you might try having another go at it. Thanks, I will be having another go at the gearbox in the summer holidays. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twright Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 An update on the 16xx, the top feed has been changed and the cab number plate guides have been removed along with a few small details. A third version with no detail and no chassis is also being made at the moment for those who want to use brass frames. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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