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Converting the starter models


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On old RMWeb someone converted the diesel shunter into something decent. I believe with both of these locos the black cab fill-in is a simple drop in bit that can be removed, and I don't think (going from memory) that the motor intrudes massively into the cab space either, so straight away you've got an interesting/different modelling project to create a cab interior. Personally I always thought the steam loco to be a bit toy-ish but the diesel shunter to have great potential, especially when the price is factored in. The wheels are probably a bit big, but I could live with that.

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I have the Bachmann 0-6-0 which was some time ago available in their 'Junior' range in the UK, which is sold as 'Thomas' in the US where Bachmann hold the TTTE licence; a little paint and a hand made face has produced something which keeps visiting kids happy. The buffer position at the rear is OO, the front bufferbeam is very low (as per illustrations in the Awdry books) but the buffer centres are at OO width. They are so freelance that there is no need to worry about whether they are OO or HO - and don't forget that in the US 'OO' would imply 19mm gauge, so they have to be 'HO' there as that is the track gauge they run on. The cab unclips from the body, and the infill to the openings is easily cut out, the cab interior could be fitted out, and there is ample room on the floor for a decoder.

 

The mechanism features a small skew wound five pole motor which performs well enough. (Clearly the US TTTE market is more demanding of motor specification than UK OO modellers!) Although small and well concealed the motor is unusually mounted, encapsulated in plastic components within the body, with the metal chassis block screwed onto the underside of the body. The wheelsets are standard with those on Bachmann's UK steamers so swapping them is feasible.

 

 

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On old RMWeb someone converted the diesel shunter into something decent. I believe with both of these locos the black cab fill-in is a simple drop in bit that can be removed

Acording to the RM article, the side window blanks are part of the roof moulding (which clips off) and are easily removed. The front windows are part of the body moulding and have to be drilled out. The impression it gave was that this isn't particularly difficult.

 

For the article they added brass handrails and a re-paint and that was essentially it. The steam shunter was more complicated as the front of the body was re-worked to turn it too into an industrial diesel.

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I took the roof off Thomas just to see what was in there and if cutting out the window blanks would be feasible. Attached to the roof is a small circuit board with two resistors. These would hang into the window space and have to be relocated. Any idea what they are for?

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I took the roof off Thomas just to see what was in there and if cutting out the window blanks would be feasible. Attached to the roof is a small circuit board with two resistors. These would hang into the window space and have to be relocated. Any idea what they are for?

 

This can be hidden in the body as the wire is long enough. Though it can be thrown away if converting to DCC.

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This can be hidden in the body as the wire is long enough. Though it can be thrown away if converting to DCC.

I probably won't be using DCC with this layout - but what function do the resistors serve with DC? I've never seen them used before.

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Well - you might be right - but they are shaped like resisters (kind of dog-boned and green) and they have four color bands on them - yellow - black - gold - silver - which by my cheat sheet puts them at 1 ohm.

 

The circuit board labels them as L1 and L2.

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Well - you might be right - but they are shaped like resisters (kind of dog-boned and green) and they have four color bands on them - yellow - black - gold - silver - which by my cheat sheet puts them at 1 ohm.

 

The circuit board labels them as L1 and L2.

 

 

The Ls in the labels make me think they're inductors, rather than resistors, especially as the third band is gold, which wouldn't normally appear on a resistor to my knowledge. Assuming they're inductors (presumably as part of a suppression circuit) the colour codes would imply "4 Microhenrys, +/-10%".

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The Ls in the labels make me think they're inductors, rather than resistors, especially as the third band is gold, which wouldn't normally appear on a resistor to my knowledge. Assuming they're inductors (presumably as part of a suppression circuit) the colour codes would imply "4 Microhenrys, +/-10%".

Okay - that makes sense - thanks.

 

By the way, gold in the third band on a resistor means divide by 10.

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im part way through converting a digby into an industrial 0-6-0 saddle tank, adding outside cylinders from a Hornby d49, ill add some pictures tomorro. ive added the cylinders, extended the coal bunker and added the front part of the old Bachmann junior thomas to extende the boiler. extended the from buffer beam, added new big brass buffers and handrails. its starting to look like a proper little shunter now.

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George Dent upgraded the Bachy Thomas into a decent loco. For the most part, these starters just need some finer detail and they will look miles better.

 

 

Does anyone know which issue of Model Rail this was featured in? I have quite a few of these and would like to do something with them other than a simple repaint. Ta muchly in advance.

 

Neil.

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From personnal experience, the Bachmann junior 0-6-0 is a very adaptable chassis to work from and modify or create your own locos. This is one I have rebuild into a freelance 2-6-0 using parts from the Hornby 28xx and plasticard.

 

IMG_9238-1.jpg

 

The winner of the PW Loco comp 2009 - looks absolutely stunning there chap! Lovely pic :)

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Has anyone had a go at detailing the Thomas, Bachmann Junior locos etc.? :huh:

Be nice to see what you can do with them...

 

I don't know if it has anything to do with "Clutton" being voted Best Layout at last weekend's Stafford Show, but Tim Venton has a P4 "Duck" running on the layout :-)

 

I couldn't tell you if it's Bachmann, Hornby or whoever, but it has a P4 chassis under it and is fully DCC. I'm told that the DCC code is "8" - the number that the Revd Awdry gave the real Duck.

 

Cheers

Flymo

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  • 1 month later...

The real 'Duck' was a Gaiety model (using the term loosely!). One I have explains the name. Concentricity is not the wheels' forte, though it runs well enough otherwise.

This was sold and numbered as a 57xx, but is in fact a 27xx. The parallel chimney, rectangular cab windows and whitle on the cab roof give it away. Presumably sold as a 57xx, as the last 27xx was scrapped about the time it appeared.

 

EDIT

 

I have been informed that the correct class name is '2721' not '27xx', The rectangular windows are not a 2721 feature either. probably sometime to do with removing the casting from the die?

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I bought this one to test decoders prior to removing the plugs. Then I though that I could maybe do something with it. I will be adding a few more details, some jacks, toolboxes, rerailing poles and some headlamps, also a crew.

sdc10045a.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I bought this one to test decoders prior to removing the plugs. Then I though that I could maybe do something with it. I will be adding a few more details, some jacks, toolboxes, rerailing poles and some headlamps, also a crew.

sdc10045a.jpg

 

That's looking very nice, all I did with mine was chop the chassis down to 4 wheels, in a failed attempt to make a 4-4-0.

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  • 7 years later...

From personnal experience, the Bachmann junior 0-6-0 is a very adaptable chassis to work from and modify or create your own locos. This is one I have rebuild into a freelance 2-6-0 using parts from the Hornby 28xx and plasticard.

 

IMG_9238-1.jpg

I like this Mogul. Very Pre-Grouping. It even has class and character to it. It's amazing what you could do with Bachmann Junior or Thomas & Friends models.

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