JimF51 Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 Reading directions for some of the card kits, I see references to UHU glue. Today, going through the directions again, for Model Railway Scenery's Pub kit, the statement "...we used UHU glue for the majority of the assembly.." I was under, perhaps mistake, that folks were referring to common glue sticks. But when I searched UHU, I find they are a mfr., with a whole range of adhesives. So what exactly is the type being used, and since I have not seen that brand over here in the US, cab anyone suggest a similar item? Thanks. Jim F Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 UHU referred to is their All Purpose Adhesive. Bostick make a similar product. The important thing is that you use a solvent based glue and not water based as these tend to cause the card to warp. Watch out, UHU also make a similar water based product. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimF51 Posted April 16, 2014 Author Share Posted April 16, 2014 Ok, thanks for the info. So you just put a glob on and spread it evenly? Jim F Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tender Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 I push a pin (about 0.5-1mm) down the nozzle and squeeze with a pair of pliers then remove the pin to flatten the end. This gives more control with the flow of the glue for smaller pieces. But yeh, just spread it about on once piece, bring the two bits together and hold for a few seconds. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Abel Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 Jim, I just use Elmers glue and haven't had any problems/issues. I DO for larger pieces and for sheets that are attached to card, use weights to keep the items glued and flat where needed. In fact I actually now use a flower press I made for my wife for the full-size sheets. Works like a charm and I've never had problems with the use of Elmers even though it's water based. (Again, see examples in the other thread on card - those Scalescenes kits are 100% built with Elmers.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimF51 Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 Ian, thanks for that. I have used Elmer's almost exclusively for wood structure building for ages. Seeing what results can be achieved (looking at your models) makes it worth trying. I do, also, use Aleene's Tacky Glue, at times, for small spots, and when I need a few seconds to line up parts. I'll give it a go, a little later this AM, after I do my daily chores . Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I found UHU (good value - in large tubes from Poundland) but stringy and unpleasant to use. Pritt Stick is good for paper to card use, but my favourite glue is balsa cement - it doesn't string, its quick drying, can be applied fairly accurately - BUT - it shrinks and distorts card badly if used for full fillet joints like building inside corners, so I use it for 'spot welding' structures. then apply a fillet of white paper glue that I got from a local (Cyprus) shop - which is called Unicol paper adhesive and comes in a plastic screw top tub for application by brush. It smells a bit like PVA wood-glue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
raymw Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Hi, talking of glues reminded me of a paste, which I thought was named 'Pollywog' or similar, but is described here http://forums.doyouremember.co.uk/threads/8500-Glue (first post) but would have been in about 1955/6 onwards. I think more was eaten compared to sticking paper. Best wishes, Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CourthsVeil Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Mind you, folks: there's a lot of variants of Uhu: acetone based, solvent free, stringy, no drops, two components etc. etc. The solvent free (green label) appears to be water based - so it's possibly problematic with most printer inks. For my card buildings I always have several glues at hand (PVA, Pritt stick, plain old Uhu, nonsolvent Uhu, 3M rattle can, etc.). Practice told me which one to use in which situation... Armin PS: if I only would ALWAYS remember, which one in which situation… Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 Without wishing to offend earlier posters I respectfully suggest that you do a quick search using 'glue' and 'chubber' and 'card', to see many previous responses to similar questions, basically stick glues are just fine with paper to card, if kept pressed flat for a short while for larger areas, and it is NOT necessary to paste a whole A4 sheet at once, smaller groups of parts are easier to deal with (IMHO). Enormous amounts of frustration and problematic gluing can be avoided by using a wallpaper seam roller and by buying non cheap PVA like Eileens Tacky glue or the Rolls Royce PVA called 'ResinW'. For Metcalfe models, if mis-applied it can be wiped off quickly without damaging the excellents inks they now use. PACE Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scalescenes Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 PVA is certainly OK to finer work but I personally I use UHU's solvent free 'Twist & glue' adhesive (see pic below) as it has a rather nice self cleaning fine point head and is non-stringy! (and non-smelly - although the smell of normal UHU GP glue does take me back to my childhood building Superquick kits in my very unventilated 1970's bedroom ) It also dries much faster that PVA which means you don't have to stop and make a cuppa between each construction step! Also shown is Anne Peak's fine point applicator (http://www.finetip.co.uk/), filled with the same UHU glue. I highly recommended this product for building card kits (just a very happy customer). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 I can also recommend the UHU Twist & Glue as I have been using it recently, managed to get 5 tubes of it from good old Poundland, the containers I have are also refillable so I now use the first empty one with PVA in it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 This sounds worth trying, I have not used it in my Finetip as I was concerned it might harden in the nozzle. Thanks fot the tip...Fine..... Doug (Currently in N Portugal, saw several old (dead) NG 2-4-6-0 s yesterday at Regua, beside the Douro.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scalescenes Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Hi Doug, if you put the needle back into the nozzle it rarely gets clogged. The UHU solvent free also dissolves on water above 50 deg C so they are pretty easy to keep clean if you do forget to replace the needle. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Thanks, John, Never too old to learn summat new...all received re other email? Doug (old dog learning new tricks) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 PVA is certainly OK to finer work but I personally I use UHU's solvent free 'Twist & glue' adhesive (see pic below) as it has a rather nice self cleaning fine point head and is non-stringy! (and non-smelly - although the smell of normal UHU GP glue does take me back to my childhood building Superquick kits in my very unventilated 1970's bedroom ) It also dries much faster that PVA which means you don't have to stop and make a cuppa between each construction step! Also shown is Anne Peak's fine point applicator (http://www.finetip.co.uk/), filled with the same UHU glue. I highly recommended this product for building card kits (just a very happy customer). Glues.jpg Just to update, have tried the above and concur wholeheartedly, excellent stuff. Old Chubber [with new trick learned...] Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold lakeview770 Posted August 30, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 30, 2014 I use Elmers Glue All and scotch 77 and Elmers School glue (Purple). The Scotch 77 is very very strong. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelrailwayscenery Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Hi All A bit late to the party here... any general purpose adhesive should be fine for most card kits. UHU has always been my first choice, but probably only because that's what I started using in my teens when I was building Superquick kits. I know a lot of people don't like it because it's stringy, but what I've been tending to do recently is applying it to parts and then leaving them for about 20 to 30 seconds for the glue to start to dry. Then when you join the parts together you get no seepage and very little mess if any. I was also introduced to Deluxe Materials Roket Card Glue a few months ago by one of the chaps at Gaugemaster and I have to say for fine detailed work it beats PVA hands down. I sets so quickly so you don't have to sit there for hours waiting holding parts together while the glue dries. Hope that helps Justin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scalescenes Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Hi All A bit late to the party here... any general purpose adhesive should be fine for most card kits. UHU has always been my first choice, but probably only because that's what I started using in my teens when I was building Superquick kits. I know a lot of people don't like it because it's stringy, but what I've been tending to do recently is applying it to parts and then leaving them for about 20 to 30 seconds for the glue to start to dry. Then when you join the parts together you get no seepage and very little mess if any. I was also introduced to Deluxe Materials Roket Card Glue a few months ago by one of the chaps at Gaugemaster and I have to say for fine detailed work it beats PVA hands down. I sets so quickly so you don't have to sit there for hours waiting holding parts together while the glue dries. Hope that helps Justin Hi Justin Just to clarify, I use the solvent-free UHU, its non stringy (green rather than black packaging - see pic and info in my earlier post). It also dries fairly quickly too like the old stinky solvent UHU. I'll have to give the Deluxe product a try... thanks. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 I have found the Roket glue rather runny and stays sticky on fingers and tools. It does stay minutely flexible, and does not crack apart when used to stick window acetates or plastics to card. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boatman Posted August 30, 2014 Share Posted August 30, 2014 Evo-Stik every time for strong (corner) joints, but the new formula in the tubes is muck. Get the carpet glue version in a small tin. Yes it stinks, that's how you know it'll work! For thinner or sheet stuff, get a tin of Spray Mount or Craft Mount. Not necessarily by brand as there are others of no brand that are just as good but half 3M's price, off the ebay. This was made nearly 30 years ago, entirely with Evo-Stik on Daler and CS10 card base. It has lived in freezing caravans and a damp boat for most of that time and this was taken last year. UHU solvent is OK, but nowhere near as strong. UHU Por, however, is excellent for Foamex board, but not easy to get unless you live in Berwick-upon-Tweed. Regards, Boatman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelrailwayscenery Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 I have found the Roket glue rather runny and stays sticky on fingers and tools. It does stay minutely flexible, and does not crack apart when used to stick window acetates or plastics to card. Doug Yes Roket takes a bit of getting used to, but with a bit of practise it's brilliant for fine detail stuff. Will have to try the non-smelly UHU... but then the odd nostalgic flashback to our childhood can't do any harm can it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 I believe the OP lives in the USA - where neither Uhu or Bostik are available (or Poundland...) Elmers works fine but I too prefer Aleene’s Tacky Glue as an all purpose glue - it was actually designed to stick fabrics and leather together , marvelous stuff. I get mine from Wallyworld (Walmart) - that actually has a very good “craft” department. Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimF51 Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 Pete, thanks. yes, I am in the US. Aleen's Tacky Glue is what I went with, and has worked very well for me, for the small amount of building I have done, so far. Trying to find US equivalents of what is used in the UK can be a pain at times. I finally found a good 1mm thick card product, after trying to use card that was either too thin, or 2 thick. Thanks, all. Jim F Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 Try an “Artist Supply” supply place like Blicks.............. Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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