Ince and Mayhew

[Job's Modelling]

This time I use a different approach for modelling a Scalescenes model.
I printed the PDF’s on fine art paper. In this case Lana Dessin 150 gsm. 

 

 

For cutting I followed the advice of a professional model maker and used a scalpel. He also gave another useful tip that I used. The first cut is no more than a guiding line for cutting. After the first line I cut the lines slowly down to get a good result.
 

Have a look at the blog of David Neat: http://davidneat.wordpress.com/

In the past I mostly used PRITT glue. After I received some advices I searches for a more PH neutral glue. The glue that fitted my wishes was a bookbinding glue. I have to bring it up with a small brush. And I use a rubber roller to get things flat. I let dry every piece I glued for 24 for hours. 

I’m very content with the use of bookbinding glue. Althought it is a little more work the result is much better. With PRITT glue I had always parts that I had to glue again. Applying a thin coat of bookbinding glue gives a good result.

 

Below the first picture of the modelling progress of the factory.

 

 

 

The textures from Scalescenes are very good, but I like to give a building my own personal touch. 

 

Although I had printed all factory sheets on Lana Dessin paper, I decided to use another kind of paper for the concrete ledge cover layers. For them I used Hahnemühle watercolour paper 150 g/m2 rough. This paper is acid free and age resistant.

If you have a look on the internet for hand colouring inkjet papers you will see that they advise also the use of watercolour paper for starting professional photographers who want to do some hand colouring on black and white pictures.

I believe it trying out different kind of papers for card modelling can give some surprising results. I don’t know of the difference is to see on the picture. The watercolour paper has much more structure and a far deeper colour. I think my cartridges will go empty a little bit quicker, but that is worth it.

 

 

The two lighter ones are printed on Lana Paper.

For weathering I used the following materials for the factory:

·         Soft pencil pastels of Caran d’Ache. This on advice of an art shop in Nijmegen. They told me that these pencils had the most pigment. In the past I mostly used a mixture of a what dark pigments. On their advice I used this time some different shades of grey and grey/blue.

But every other good brand will work too.

·         Coloured pencils for detailing. I used the pencils I had in stock from different brands.

·         100% cotton buds and tissues

A good place with good light is essential. I have a daylight lamp above my workspace. But also good daylight can do the job. And use a clamp cloth to wipe your hands clean from pastel chalk.

I use small amounts of pastel and then smooth the area using a cotton bud or some tissue. I try not to press down heavy when applying the chalk.

I started with the lightest colour and then applied layers of darker colours over the lighter. The nice way of working this way is that you can blend the colours together. The thinner you can keep your layers the more translucent your work will be and allows the printed work to show through.

I work from the top to bottom so my hand is not smudging over a finished area. Working with pastels can be a little messy and dusty so patience and cleanliness are a virtue if you want to avoid smudging.

 

Colour pencils are not really blendable so the use of pencil is kept to detail and small areas.

After you have finished your weathering you can give the whole a protecting varnish. This time I used Liquitex Matt Varnish for the following reasons:

 

I tried it out on some test work and it worked well for me. I sprayed the surface of the factory outside, in the garden, as recommended. This is the only part of my modelling for which I cannot find a nontoxic resolution. 

 

 

The next job I had to do now was adding the windows behind the weathered factory wall. In the past I use a solvent free glue from Pattex. This time I used double sided tape from 3M, as David Neat advices in one of his excellent articles. 

I used window c form his Arches and Windows TX00 kit, that I cut to size.

After adding the windows I tried out how to create the final look. I had several possibilities that were usable.  

I decided to build an inner wall with white stone to create the illusion of depth.

 

This is glued behind the windows.

Then I printed the “Grime window” sheet from Scalescenes in black and white. After looking at some reference pictures on the website of CGtextures I wasn’t convinced that the colour used by Scalescenes would create the right appearance.

 

After I tried the black and with version I took my pastel pencils to add some grey/blue colour to the original texture.

On the left the original version, at the right the coloured one.

The coloured texture is added behind the windows.

 

Here is the final version of the windows.

And below the factory placed into my shadow diorama Station Road

Suggestion and comments are most appreciated.

Regards,

 

Job

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[C&WR]

Nice stuff, Job.  I find the David Neat page a really handy resource!

[Job's Modelling]

By bookbinding glue do you mean seccotine?

Seccotine is a fish glue. I have no experience with that.

 

I use a Dutch equivalent of this:

PVA Glue

Professional quality polyvinyl acetate (PVA). This book binding glue comes in a wide mouth jar which makes it very easy to use. It's excellent for bookbinding, card making, collage and it's pH neutral. Although it's white in color, it dries clear...and dries quickly at that.

Product Tip: PVA can be stored for several months, but cannot be frozen.

I got the advice from my contact person by Hahnemühle papers. He wrote me: I you want to use high quality artist or photographic art papers use PH neutral glue. 

[CourthsVeil]

Job,

I'm glad to read again from you, mate!

 

And I agree on all points raised in your opening post. Kinda good tutorial this!

 

Also I like your work – I'm sure it will come out as fine as Northall Dock. Go ahead this way and give us more eye fodder, pls.

 

Cheers

  Armn