Couplings of choice

[Wibble]

I've just spent the last 2 hours fitting some Smiths 3 link couplings to a couple of Bachmann Presflows.

 

What's so frustrating is the kit manufacturers (Parkside, Cambrian, Chivers, et all) provide the facility to fit couplings of choice, whether that be tension lock, 3 link, or any other kind of auto-coupling.

[Diesel Dayz]

In 2008 I exhibited a layout where all the stock had 3 link couplings. I've just about recovered from the ordeal

[(The) Youth]

I like to use smiths on SWB 4 wheel wagons but on bogied vehicles I like to use tension lock or some wire

[StaffsOatcake]

Giving the Kadee coupler route a whirl at the moment. Let you know how I fare but i hazard a guess they're not your cup of tea if your fitting 3 link couplings

[Barry Ten]

I'm fitting 3-links to a subset of my (mostly kitbuilt) pre-nationalisation stock to see how I get on with them - possibly under exhibition conditions as well, although it'll likely be a fairly relaxed outing. I'm happy to fix the drawbar in place, omitting springing, which makes it fairly quick and easy. If I find that me and 3-links don't get on, at least I won't have wasted time and money on my post-nationalisation stuff.

[Bernard Lamb]

I read the post by Wibble more as a cry of anguish about the variations in RTR underframes rather than as a comment on the effectiveness of 3 link couplings. Having experienced similar frustration myself I would say he is making a very valid point. The RTR makers could make life easier for modellers.

Bernard

[Wibble]

I read the post by Wibble more as a cry of anguish about the variations in RTR underframes rather than as a comment on the effectiveness of 3 link couplings. Having experienced similar frustration myself I would say he is making a very valid point. The RTR makers could make life easier for modellers.

Bernard

 

There was certainally some 'anguish' involved with fitting couplings of choice. The problem with the Bachmann Presflow in particular, is the lack of depth behind the bufferbeam to be able to fit 3 link couplings. With most RTR or kit built stock, couplings can be fitted in a matter of minutes, but the latest releases seem to be making it harder for personal choice.

 

I can understand that each modeller has different ideas and means of coupling rolling stock, but surely it can't be all that difficult to accomodate everyone's needs in a new release?

 

Maybe I'm just entering the 'grumpy old man' stage of life, hence the initial posting.

 

On a more positive note - it's easy to fit wheels of choice...... much more easier than the 16t mineral wagon!

[tebee]

Yes, I've been modelling US prototype for several years and am thinking of doing some British stuff again. The one thing I'm dreading is the loss of my beloved Kadee couplers and the fact that every thing you buy takes them so easily in a standard pocket.

 

In the past I've used both 3 link and tension look (and Sprat and Winkle) and although 3 link looks really good I used to struggle coupling them up and my eyesight has only gotten worse over the years.....

 

Kadee's just don't look so good on British stock as the standard hight works out about 2 mm below UK buffer-beam hight and you need to use the long shank one to clear the buffers.

[Russ (mines a pint)]

There was certainally some 'anguish' involved with fitting couplings of choice. The problem with the Bachmann Presflow in particular, is the lack of depth behind the bufferbeam to be able to fit 3 link couplings. With most RTR or kit built stock, couplings can be fitted in a matter of minutes, but the latest releases seem to be making it harder for personal choice.

 

I can understand that each modeller has different ideas and means of coupling rolling stock, but surely it can't be all that difficult to accomodate everyone's needs in a new release?

 

Maybe I'm just entering the 'grumpy old man' stage of life, hence the initial posting.

 

On a more positive note - it's easy to fit wheels of choice...... much more easier than the 16t mineral wagon!

The most annoying thing is when there is nowhere to put the spring, as that to me is part of the realism of the 3 links, how the train picks up wagon by wagon and is under tension- there has been more than one wagon where I've just though 'too much hassle' and bent the thing onto the rearside of the bufferbeam and superglued it instead of doing the job properly!

[Pennine MC]

 

Maybe I'm just entering the 'grumpy old man' stage of life, hence the initial posting.

 

 

Just? You've done well then Come on in, the water's lovely

[Captain Kernow]

If you are prepared to live without the springing of the drawbar (and I'd say that, given a choice, I'd prefer sprung buffers to sprung drawbars), then perhaps the Captain's method of attaching Smiths hooks needs another airing?

 

It's not necessarily for the faint hearted, mind, as it involves heating the pre-sharpened (and if necessary, pre-shortened) end of the drawbar up in the gas flame on the cooker and carefully inserting into the plastic of the buffer beam whilst still very hot. I've done dozens of wagons like that and it works fine, looks fine!

[Kenton]

I can understand that each modeller has different ideas and means of coupling rolling stock, but surely it can't be all that difficult to accomodate everyone's needs in a new release?

But that is exactly the problem. There are so many different coupling systems out there and we all seem to prefer different flavours.

 

My personal favourite is S&W but then I don't think it looks good on coaching stock.

3 link really looks great but AFAIC are totally unusable, impractical and a pain in the neck.

I've never liked KD its the knuckle and silly magnets but they work if can put up with that.

... and as for tension locks

 

But the trouble is that the RTR manufacturers don't care - they have their tension lock system and just put it on all stock with little thought to others (why would their customers want to buy anything other than their stock and their coupling system?) Granted over the past few years they have added pockets - but that is about as useful as the other manufacturer's TL system - neither 3 link, S&W, AJ ... fit into the pockets - in fact removing the pocket to have a flat surface can be even more troublesome and that is assuming they can get the height right in the first place.

 

If they were selling for modellers then they would leave the space flat and level for the addition of what the modeller wanted. But they are selling toy trains - the vast majority of which will be used without uncoupling or to many modellers who are content to run with TL or are happy to tinker with them to get them to uncouple.

[Oldddudders]

Yes, I've been modelling US prototype for several years and am thinking of doing some British stuff again. The one thing I'm dreading is the loss of my beloved Kadee couplers and the fact that every thing you buy takes them so easily in a standard pocket.

 

In the past I've used both 3 link and tension look (and Sprat and Winkle) and although 3 link looks really good I used to struggle coupling them up and my eyesight has only gotten worse over the years.....

 

Kadee's just don't look so good on British stock as the standard hight works out about 2 mm below UK buffer-beam hight and you need to use the long shank one to clear the buffers.

I have also been using Kadees in US HO for many years - and it was partly their NEM-pocket compatible #18 product that tempted me to put a toe in the water of OO after 25 years. Fitting these to Hornby Maunsells produces the best close-coupling I have ever seen in OO scale, and they seem to run fairly happily, thanks to those sprung buffers. No doubt I am in for a shock when I get to converting freight stock, however!

[Adams442T]

Liking the look of 3-link, and not being that happy with Sprat & Winkle, I have gone over to the Dingham coupler for non coaching stock. No more difficult to set up than S&W and AJs. No cross buffer wires either.

 

Clear pictures of them are on http://www.dingham.c...4mm_coupler.htm and under http://www.dingham.co.uk/how_it_works4.htm

 

No connection except as a satified customer.

[tebee]

If you are prepared to live without the springing of the drawbar (and I'd say that, given a choice, I'd prefer sprung buffers to sprung drawbars), then perhaps the Captain's method of attaching Smiths hooks needs another airing?

 

It's not necessarily for the faint hearted, mind, as it involves heating the pre-sharpened (and if necessary, pre-shortened) end of the drawbar up in the gas flame on the cooker and carefully inserting into the plastic of the buffer beam whilst still very hot. I've done dozens of wagons like that and it works fine, looks fine!

 

I used a variant of this when I was fitting them. I'd hold the hook end in a needle nosed pair of pliers while holding a reasonably large soldering iron against the shaft. If I was springing it I'd push it in from the front, usually a little pull with the pliers just before the plastic re-set was enough to ensure free operation, if not I'd pull the coupler out again and thin and clean the shaft with a few strokes of a needle file.

 

If it was not going to be sprung I'd insert it from the top, often bending the shaft to an "L" shape first. This was much easier as you can press down with the soldering iron.

 

Tom

[Wibble]

Just? You've done well then Come on in, the water's lovely

 

I'm younger than I look

 

I'll give the 'hot slot' treatment a go, but watch this space in case I suddenly want to dispose of a few warped, but carefully owned wagons

[Guest stuartp]

there has been more than one wagon where I've just though 'too much hassle' and bent the thing onto the rearside of the bufferbeam and superglued it instead of doing the job properly!

 

Most of mine are fitted like that !

[Neil]

I don't bother with the springs, who on earth would want the coupling hook to boing about in the headstock, it may be a prototypical necessity but in 4mm scale i really cant see the point. I used to use the Kernow hot slot technique but these days I bottle, drill two small holes and join them up with the tip of a pointy craft knife. I always araldite the hook in from the rear.

[Russ (mines a pint)]

Most of mine are fitted like that !

And given some of the more recent replies- I dont see any reason why not to- can certainly see me trying out the 'hot-slot' idea it appeals to my sense of simplicity - on an unimportant wagon first of course! B)

 

Edit: hmm wonder if the same tactic would work on etched disc headcodes! - seem to remember buying 6 packets for 6 loco's then having to buy another 2 packets

[BR60103]

After Neil's post, How much does a prototype 3 linker spring?

[Adams442T]

It's a system I'm considering, do you have any pics of your fitted stock?

 

Unfortunately my digital is U/S at present, so no. All look very much like the site pix though, except I blacken the couplings with a Carr's metal black (the nickel silver one seems best for this). They have simple alternatives for getting the coupling / buffer face relative position right (which is the main crucial adjustment) and I've found them very reliable.

 

You get, if I remember correctly, 20 sets on a fret and every order I've placed has come back by return of post!