Triang Class 31 upgrade

[Narrow Gauge Jordan]

Hi all,

 

I've had a Triang class 31 in green (D5572) for a while now and I have never done anything with it, and I've always wanted to try detailing and modifying RTR stock. So I thought I'd have a go but where to start?

 

1. It doesn't run so I need a new chassis (Ebay here I come!)

2. What details can I add to the side/roof of the loco (vents/fans etc).

3. What details can I add to the front (Pipes/windscreen wipers)

 

If anyone knows of any kits available to upgrade this model information would be greatly appreciated as the loco will be the basis of a new layout.

 

Thanks

 

Jordan

[Ravenser]

I'm currently detailing an Airfix 31, so...

 

1.  Why doesn't it run - is the existing mechanism fixable?

 

The Triang motor bogie wasn't wonderful in my limited experience (I had one under a second hand 37 and not even an overhaul by a local modelshop could make the thing run properly) . Therefore you might want to consider alternative mechanisms to go under it. I'm not really sure what the options are.

 

At one time the mechanism out of a US outline HO  Athearn PA-1 diesel was considered the best route to upgrading a 37 , but the bogies are actually rather closer to a 31. . I've heard of someone repowering a 31 like this , but never saw any details - they were in Australia. You'd need to cut and shut the  diecast chassis frame to shorten it , and do the same on the drive shaft (using suitable brass tube to join the two cut ends together). I've a feeling some work will be needed to realign diecast fuel tanks . There's also the question of how you DCC the thing - at least for me. Therefore, although I've got a suitable chassis in the cupboard , I've currently filed the idea in the "too hard " basket as I have a perfectly satisfactory Airfix chassis. A suitable Athearn chassis might be sourceable via ebay . There's also the possibility of getting hold of a Hornby 31 from the first batch where the chassis block has Mazak rot and is expanding and crumbling . You'd then need to strip it down, salvage the bogies, drive train and motor and build your own chassis frame to take them , presumably from 40 thou plasticard. I've heard of such a thing having been done (and I have a 31 270 slowly crumbling in a box...)

 

Otherwise I'm not sure what the options are. Airfix and Lima 31s can be had cheap , but the mechanisms aren't to modern standards and presumably they'd come with a matching 31 body. At which point you might as well detail that instead, since they were arguably a bit more refined than Triang's version.

 

2 . Not a lot to be done to the sides. Replace the main fan grill on the roof - try the usual suspects A1, Howes, Shawplan - and flushglaze . SE Finecast should do a pack. The main radiator grills on this class are recessed and there's no point replacing with etches - besides there aren't any . There may be moulded lines for paint divisions on the Triang body which will need to come off presumably with a chisel blade

 

3. Almost certainly replace the moulded handrails on the front with wire . Getting pairs of L-shaped handrails that match perfectly is demanding , and a Bill Bedford handrail bending jig is an essential item in the toolkit, but 3 neat wire handrails will lift the front end considerably. The very bold might attempt replacement lamp irons. I suspect replacement buffers will be required , but I'm not sure if exactly correct buffers are available.

 

4. Very important - what exactly are you modelling? This is a large (263 built) and an extremely long lived class (introduced late 1957, some still in use with Network Rail, so almost 57 years). There were a number of variants as built, almost all locos went through 2 major rebuild/refurbishment programmes,  and a refurbished ETH 31 in 80s/90s condition is a significantly different beast from an early Brush Type 2.

 

Indeed strictly speaking the Triang moulding isn't even a 31 - its a 30 : the moulding dates from 1962, before the major problem with main engine cracking had emerged, and therefore before the late 60s re-engining programme with an English Electric power plant , so it depicts a later production batch Brush 2 in as built condition with Mirrlees engine, steam boiler, side footsteps up to the roof, buffer fairings and bodyside band. Trying to turn that into a refurb 31/4 or 31/5 c1990 is more trouble than it's worth.

 

 In short - work out what you're trying to model and get photographs of it. Or model to a period photo of a suitable "target"

[MJI]

Mine was painted up as 31 154 but it got messy so stripped for a respray - will still be a Bath Road machine, Triang and Airfix were very accodating with their number choices so both are sameas when made.

 

31 154

31 401

[stewartingram]

The Triang motor bogie is another of those "Morris Minor" things, can be kept going for ever (though some parts are now hard to come by, and the faulty bits may have to be repaired/modified to keep them going). As a power unit though, it is not very powerful; I found that extra weight located in the centre of the loco, giving extra traction to the power bogie, did improve matters a lot. The same bogie was used in the 37, which was later modified to take a Ringfield bogie (another good one) which was more powerful. It should be possible to do a bit of "cut & shut" on a later 37 frame to fit the 31 (though I've never tried), if you have the bits available. Not really worth the effort if you have to pay good money for them though.

I'm sure your 31 bogie is revivable - if you want help or advice just PM me. As an ex Hornby service agent, I'll probably be able to help. One thing, DON'T remove the magnets as you will lose magnetism, easily sorted though as I have the remagnetser.

 

Stewart

[Fat Controller]

You can get all the parts from the current centre-drive Hornby 31 (bogies, carden shafts, motor and flywheel etc) from Peter's Spares or similar outlets. You could then modify the existing plastic 'chassis' to accommodate them; I've done this with a 56 and 60.