Chris-GNR Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 Happy New Year!!! I've done very little modelling over the festive period, (not including a couple of sessions working on The Mill at Jason's) unless building Lego train sets with the kids counts as modelling. Last night I got a couple of hours & again this afternoon so it was on with the J4. Brake gear time, on just the rigging & brake shoes shown below there are 36(!) separate pieces laminated & soldered together. Not a very interesting photo I know & it still needs a bit of cleaning up but I've posted it because with chassis being split frame construction the brake rigging has to insulated/isolated somehow, so to do this I have glued a short piece of plasticard to the upper face of the tie bars & when the epoxy is set I'll cut a slit in the metal on the underside isolating one side from the other. I'll then fill the slit with milliput & file back the plastic to a lesser thickness. The cross shaft under the cab end that holds the actuators that then joint the rigging I'll use plastic rod in place of brass wire. If I'm lucky I'll get chance to do a bit more tonight. Cheers. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Going back to the SEF N5 chassis, I bought one of these at Scaleforum and found that the wheelbase was very wrong. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-GNR Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 Going back to the SEF N5 chassis, I bought one of these at Scaleforum and found that the wheelbase was very wrong. Regards Evening I wasn't aware of any problems regards the wheel base. The photo of the model built on the box show the trailing pony truck far to close to the rear drivers but the frames in the kit are fine & it builds right. I wounded if the the one on the box is built from a test etch or some other logical explanation. Ive built mine with a scratch built radial truck but used the axle hole in the frames as my datum. The leading two set of drivers run in horn blocks & positioned using the rods. I've just had a look in my RCTS 9A that covers L1 to N19 & it says: Wheel base - 7ft 11inch + 8ft 7inch + 6ft i've been & measured the rods on mine & it measures 30mm + 35mm + 24mm which converts to 7ft 6inch + 8ft 9inch + 6ft. A difference of 5inch & 2inch in 4mm scale is liveable with, well for me for my first build anyway. Cheers Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted January 6, 2015 Share Posted January 6, 2015 Evening I wasn't aware of any problems regards the wheel base. The photo of the model built on the box show the trailing pony truck far to close to the rear drivers but the frames in the kit are fine & it builds right. I wounded if the the one on the box is built from a test etch or some other logical explanation. Ive built mine with a scratch built radial truck but used the axle hole in the frames as my datum. The leading two set of drivers run in horn blocks & positioned using the rods. I've just had a look in my RCTS 9A that covers L1 to N19 & it says: Wheel base - 7ft 11inch + 8ft 7inch + 6ft i've been & measured the rods on mine & it measures 30mm + 35mm + 24mm which converts to 7ft 6inch + 8ft 9inch + 6ft. A difference of 5inch & 2inch in 4mm scale is liveable with, well for me for my first build anyway. Cheers Chris I would imagine that the dimensional issues don't matter too much if they match the body, but I was going to put it underneath the Judith Edge kit. I think I'll replace it with the AGW chassis LM1-54. While I can understand and sympathise with your attitude for me the inaccuracies are an irritant! Nice build though, like your model lots. Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-GNR Posted January 6, 2015 Author Share Posted January 6, 2015 David, fair enough regards the Judith Edge kit. If I'd know about it when I started mine I would have gone for it. Do you not get a set of chassis frames with the Edge kit? Thanks for you kind comments regards my models. Have you seen the 12" Neilson I'm building for a layout for the EM gauge society layout comp? http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/90024-the-mill/page-3&do=findComment&comment=1629874 Cheers Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PenrithBeacon Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 (edited) David, fair enough regards the Judith Edge kit. If I'd know about it when I started mine I would have gone for it. Do you not get a set of chassis frames with the Edge kit? ... Cheers Chris The issue of the chassis is a comedy of errors. I thought I'd read somewhere that the JE kit was body only. I was wrong, dead wrong. But ... I went and bought the SEF chassis because I thought I was right! The JE chassis doesn't lend itself to the use of Comet or Exactoscale chassis jigs so I made it up without the benefit of those and ended up with a twisted chassis. Now I need to unsolder the chassis and try again, but there are other difficulties which are preventing me from getting back to it. Perhaps this weekend I will forgo the St Albans show and do some modelling. Regards Edited January 7, 2015 by PenrithBeacon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grob1234 Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 Just seen this thread for the first time. Some very nice stuff going on here, Chris. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-GNR Posted August 29, 2016 Author Share Posted August 29, 2016 Just seen this thread for the first time. Some very nice stuff going on here, Chris. Thanks for that Tom. Its been a good while since I've posted anything on here due to being tied up with other projects, The Mill & a couple of loco builds for friends. I have made a start with my quad set for Clayton & I've a bunch of wagons that are in various stages of completion. Once the kids are back at school in the next couple of weeks i'll hopefully be able to get back to some modelling. Excuses, excuses I know...... Cheers Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-GNR Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 Evening. Right then, after nearly a year since my last post on here I've finally got something to show. I've been asked to test build a new set of etches for a LNER Q1 (GNR K1) created by Frank Davies a fellow member at Shipley & the driving force behind the Clayton project we currently have underway. Frank has already created a set of etches for a LNER Q2 & I believe this is going to be made available as a full kit via London Road Models later this year. Assuming all goes well with this test build for the Q1 I think this to will become available via LRM at a later date. Here are the etches laid out, wheels, motor, High Level horn blocks, WD handrail knobs (for the CSB) & tender. When complete the loco will be running on Clayton but I'm yet to identify which number it'll be. Here is a pic of one for anyone who is not familiar with the prototype. I'll do my best to make regular updates as the build progresses. Work has continued at a somewhat slow pace in the background on the LRM J4 & the quad set & will continue to but the Q1 has been bumped to the top of the pile for now. Cheers for now. Chris 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-GNR Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 Evening, I have managed to make a start on the Q1 & after a few hours this is where I'm at . Frames mid assembly, and here the frames are assembled with the CSB anchors & wire installed. Also all eight High Level horn blocks made up with the CSB carrier tags from the kit fitted. More tomorrow hopefully. Cheers Chris 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-GNR Posted July 2, 2017 Author Share Posted July 2, 2017 Evening all. I managed to get a bit more done on the Q1 this evening. Rods built up & horn blocks installed & a temporary CSB wire fitted. It might be a bit early in the Build to say this but this being my first go at CSB I was a bit nervous about it but it's all going well so far. Wheels & brake gear tomorrow evening. Fingers crossed. Cheers Chris 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-GNR Posted July 2, 2017 Author Share Posted July 2, 2017 Also I'll take the opportunity to share this event this weekend featuring The Mill & six other great finescale layouts. Cheers Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-GNR Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 Evening Wheels & rods test fitted last night so I took it down the club tonight & pushed it through some point work, all is well. Brake gear & frame overlays next. I'm not sure how much more I'll get done this week as I've a few bits a bobs to get ready for the Gnosall show at the weekend. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/119176-staffordshire-finescale-group-modelling-showcase-8th-july-2017/page-1&do=findComment&comment=2587795 cheers Chris 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-GNR Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 Morning all. Progress continues on the Q1 Chassis. The side frame overlays are now fitted plus all the wires for brake hangers & spring hangers in place. The springs & hangers are a very nice three layer assembly resulting in a nice detailed part with prototypical depth. I have all eight made up & ready to fit but I'm going to leave them off until it's time to paint because once they are fitted I'll not be able to drop the wheels in & out so readily. Here is a pic of one about to be assembled & one in position to illustrate what they look like & how they fit. Cheers Chris 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted July 17, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 17, 2017 I had a look at this chassis at the Gnosall show and it really is very nice and you're doing a great job putting it together. The added depth of those springs makes a big difference, very nice. Guess it wouldn't take much to adapt them so they are removable in case you need to drop the wheels out? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-GNR Posted July 17, 2017 Author Share Posted July 17, 2017 Afternoon Mark Thank you, to kind. Yes, I've been toying with ideas for doing just that. With this being a test build I don't want to deviate to far from how it's indented to be built, but I'm sure I'll come up with something. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-GNR Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 Evening all... More progress on the Q1 chassis. I've now made up all the brake shoes & the pull rod assembly. The hangers & shoes are made up of a triple layer of full thickness etch, like the springs this gives a nice prototypical depth to the parts. The method of assembly is great because the three layers once cut free from the fret have half etch tags joining them together that allow you with ease to fold them up to create a triple layer brake shoe. Then by inserting a short length of 0.5mm wire through the shoe & through the hanger ensuring the angle of the shoe to the hanger is right I flooded the assembly with flux & with a generous amount of solder applied to the curved face of the brake shoe this runs through all three layers & the joint between the shoe & hanger. The generous amount of solder on the face of the shoe gives you something to clean up creating the effect of a solid piece. The short bit of 0.5mm wire is cut back & cleaned up to represent a fixing pin/bolt. Showing the design of the brake shoe etch & mid assembly, the pile of completed brake shoes & pull rod assembly, and finally the chassis with wheels dropped back in & motor attached just to test running under its own steam, well 12v DC. the gearbox above is not what will end up in the loco as the kit provides a set of custom etched sides deigned to utilise the gears, shafts & motor from the Portescap unit. I'm glad to say it ran very nicely up & down the 2ft length of track on my bench. I'm hoping to get a couple of hours more work in on the Q1 later. Cheers for now Chris 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted July 21, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 21, 2017 Chris,, wouldn't it have been easier (and quicker) to have a set of 3D Cadded printed brake blocks and springs set up for the chassis? or a casting? Could a hole though each end of the springs be used to add a removable pin to get the wheels out if required? Baz Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-GNR Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 Evening Barry Your possibly right on the quicker aspect but as this is a test build to help prove the design of the kit is sound it's not really for me to stray to far from the use of the intended components. I think also as a personal preference i'm happy to invest the time in making parts like this from nickle silver or brass soldered up over a plastic or resin alternative as a way to help give good strength on potentially delicate areas such as brake gear. A casting for the springs could work but you wouldn't get the open structure of the hangers like that with the etched assembly. In addition to that I'm still not convinced the 3D printed option is quite there yet, while I'm impressed by the possibilities I've not yet seen anything that looks better or as good as well but together etched equivalent. Cheers Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-GNR Posted August 27, 2017 Author Share Posted August 27, 2017 Evening everyone, Progress has been continuing on the Q1, the chassis in now more or less complete & tomorrow should hopefully see me making a start on the body. In other news I'm honoured to have been asked to be one of the demonstrators at next months expoEM Autumn (EM North) in Partington Manchester Sep 9th & 10th. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/125531-expoem-autumn-2017/&do=findComment&comment=2834567 I'll be focusing on loco construction & will have the Q1 with me to continuing working on, although I imagine in reality most of the weekend will be spent chatting with folk & checking the members sales stand for bargains. I'll have a few other locos with me on display some complete & some under construction. So if you are at the show please be sure to pass by & say hello. Here is the new layout thread for Clayton the layout which most of the things covered on my workbench thread are intended for. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/125725-clayton/ Cheers for now... Chris 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portchullin Tatty Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 Chris It was good to meet you over the weekend and to see both the locos and layout development. I did not get to read my MRJ until last night and I got another blast of the layout in that I note!! One suggestion I can give you relates to the shorting wires for the back of the wheels. You can do this with a fine piece of either brass or phosphor bronze wire that is soldered to the tyre on one side, is wrapped around the axle and then over to the tyre on the other side. By wrapping it around you can be confident that there is an electrical contact even if it is not amazingly tight. Works for me! Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-GNR Posted September 13, 2017 Author Share Posted September 13, 2017 Morning Mark Yes it was good to meet you to at the weekend. A particularly good expo EM North/Autumn I thought. I like your idea for a shorting strip I'll be sure to give it a try. I had thought of something similar using some .35 beryllium copper wire I have either wound once or twice round the axle. Cheers Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-GNR Posted October 13, 2017 Author Share Posted October 13, 2017 Evening all... After a few weeks of suffering the effects of an extremely poor modelling mojo & for some unknown reason finding it hard to even want to turn the soldering iron on today i've been back at the bench. While demoing at EM north in September I got the running plate for the Q1 started & that was the last bit of modelling I had done but this afternoon has seen me continue with the Q1, yay!!! The drag box overlays, valance overlays, sandbox lids & splashers have been fitted. While rolling to shape & then dry run fitting the splashers it appeared that they wouldn't fit, them being to long. The kit intends them to sit nicely into a recess at either end of the splasher but once i'd rolled them to the correct radius they sat to high on the running plate leaving a gap between its self & the splasher front. This being a test build I was initially concerned these may have been etched over length but by rubbing the once rolled splashers over some medium grade emery paper to put a flat on the ends of the splashers this allows them to sit really nicely in place matching the splasher front perfectly. Happy to have spent a bit of time at the bench today & fingers crossed i'll get some more done over the weekend. Cheers Chris 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuffer Davies Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 Evening all... After a few weeks of suffering the effects of an extremely poor modelling mojo & for some unknown reason finding it hard to even want to turn the soldering iron on today i've been back at the bench. While demoing at EM north in September I got the running plate for the Q1 started & that was the last bit of modelling I had done but this afternoon has seen me continue with the Q1, yay!!! The drag box overlays, valance overlays, sandbox lids & splashers have been fitted. While rolling to shape & then dry run fitting the splashers it appeared that they wouldn't fit, them being to long. The kit intends them to sit nicely into a recess at either end of the splasher but once i'd rolled them to the correct radius they sat to high on the running plate leaving a gap between its self & the splasher front. FullSizeRender-10.jpg This being a test build I was initially concerned these may have been etched over length but by rubbing the once rolled splashers over some medium grade emery paper to put a flat on the ends of the splashers this allows them to sit really nicely in place matching the splasher front perfectly. FullSizeRender-13.jpg FullSizeRender-9.jpg FullSizeRender-11.jpg FullSizeRender-12.jpg Happy to have spent a bit of time at the bench today & fingers crossed i'll get some more done over the weekend. Cheers Chris I'm delighted to see that you are back at the bench and apologies for failing to explain the need for chamfering of the ends of the splashier tops in the instructions. It is worth mentioning that the same approach is required when building the Q2 kit which has now been launched by LRM. Keep up the good work.... Frank Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris-GNR Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 Wow(!), nothing since October!!! My apologies to anyone who has been following progress of the Q1 build. Since my last post the Q1 has come on quite a bit despite no modelling having been done since late November. Tonight I was able to get back in the saddle & continue with the Q1 although if I'm honest most of the evening was spent sorting out the bench, catching up with where I left off & generally re-establishing myself with it all. Tomorrow i'll hopefully make some real progress. Here it is currently... Well the photo was taken a while ago but I don't think its changed since taking it. I'll take some more pics tomorrow & try to back track a little showing whats been done. Cheers for now..... Chris 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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