Converting Hornby Class 50 to EM Gauge

[pompeystuart]

Hi All,

Apologies in advance if this topic has been covered before, im sure it has, but couldn't find the details.

I have a fairly recent Hornby Class 50 (50037 Invincible), which i want to convert to EM Gauge. However, i can't find a simple conversion kit. Ultrascale seem to have discontinued theirs, while Alan Gibson doesn't make it clear and im keen not to order the wrong thing.

 

Does anyone have any advise please? Im going to Expo EM North next month, but thought i'd see what i could find out prior to speaking to the traders.

 

Thanks in advance

 

[bodmin16]

Check out this on ebay

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ultrascale-EM-gauge-wheels-for-Hornby-Class-50-Train-parts-and-Accessories-/181478356027?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item2a40f3f43b

[dj_crisp]

I've done my three with black beetle EM sets from Branchlines. .. very easy to do. Hope that helps

[Mark Forrest]

In addition to Gibson and Ultrascale, I think Branchlines also do/did a conversion set based on black beetle wheel sets.

 

I've not done a 50 but used the Gibson conversion pack on a Hornby 31 and it worked well.

[pompeystuart]

Thanks for the tips. Branchlines website doesn't seem to have been updated since 2008, so suspect i'll have to try calling them. Im thinking i should have looked into getting conversion kits prior to splashing out on a model. Surprised this is so difficult, must be a gap in the market for someone to jump into. 

 

thanks again

[brossard]

Assuming this model has a central motor and cardan shaft drive to the bogies (and all the Google hits I got seemed to be this version).  If it has a ringfield motor, disregard the following.  This may be considered heresy but have you thought about reworking the wheels yourself?  It's a bit tedious but I've reworked a fair number of Bachmann coach wheels this way.  Newer Hornby wheels (I haven't seen the Cl 50 wheels though) seem to my eye to have a good profile.  The wheels will probably have flanges of ~ 0.7mm and an overall width of 2.7mm.  These need to be reduced to 0.55mm and 2.3mm respectively.

 

I remove the wheels from their axle and knock out the bushing (a piece of 2.38mm rod makes a good mandrel for this).   Then I use a wide bastard file to file down the wheel backs (rubbing the wheel on the file works well) repeatedly measuring (digital caliper) the overall width until I get something that equates to the flange thickness I want.  That done, turn the wheel over and file until you get a width of 2.3mm.

 

Finish with a fine file to put a small relieving chamfer on the back outside edge of the flange.  Break the edge of the top of the tire and file off any sharp feeling areas until everything is smooth. 

 

Re-install the bushings and wheels and gauge to B2B of 16.5mm.  If the axle is too short, you should be able to get 2mm dia. steel rod from Eileen's Emporium (SSRM20K).

 

Reworking wheels is a faff, but until something better comes along, it could be stopgap.

 

Here's a picture of what I mean:

 

 

Reworked scruffy looking wheel on the left, RTR on the right.

 

I have read of people simply re-gauging RTR wheels, but by doing so you reduce the clearances through turnout crossings.

 

Just sharing some of my experience, HTH.

 

John

[Grovenor]

The class 50 wheelsets are split axle, so they don't have any bushings and you don't need a mandrell as they are already mounted on stub axles, so John's solution is even simpler.

The Alan Gibson wheels also come on stub axles and are simple replacements. The Hornby original wheels are under size (diameter) and AG wheels were, probably still are, available in either the correct size or the Hornby size. Using the correct size wheelsets increases the ride height and you then need to file down the bogie centre bearings on the chassis to bring it down again.

Keith

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

Unless I am much mistaken (only handled one once when a relatively new release) the centre motored Hornby class 50 had a split axle construction, each wheel and stub axle cast as a piece, and inserted in a plastic centre with moulded on gear to make the wheelset. So it should be possible to just pull apart each wheelset, and insert appropriate spacers to regauge. May need the outside ends of the stub axles cutting down slightly, to whatever extent is required to relocate within the bogie frame width.

[brossard]

Good information Keith, I never thought of split axle .  Rats!  Still, the notion of reworking may be valid for other people.

 

John

[Grovenor]

John,

Sorry, hadn't realised that you were only using your 'mandrell' as a punch. You can just put the stub axles in a drill chuck (or lathe)  and do the filing down while it spins with appropriate safety precautions. Works fine for reducing flanges and thinning wheels, just don't touch the tread so you are sure to maintain the concentricity.

Keith

[CloggyDog]

If the wheelsets are anything like those on the Class 31 (plastic axle centres with wheels mounted on stub ables at each end) it is quite easy to regauge by drifting the wheels slightly out on their stub axles - I've done all my 31s using this method with success (C&L BH plain track and handbuilt S&C work from the same source). No need to dismantle the wheelsets, just drop them out of the bogies.

 

Open the jaws of a vice wide enough to clear the centre gear but with the back of a wheel resting across and supported by the open vice jaws.

 

Gently tap (hammer) the protruding stub axle until it's moved a mm or so.

 

Flip the wheelset and do the same with the opposite wheel.

 

Check with an EM back to back gauge, keep tapping/turning/tapping/turning/checking until the b2b just slides between the backs of the wheels. Double-check that each wheel has been moved equally outwards.

 

Rinse and repeat for the remaining 5 wheelsets. Refit to chassis and test.

 

Admittedly, using even a light hammer is a bit 'balls of steel' - if you have a worm/gear puller, that would work as well if not better.

 

This method keeps the overal length of the wheelsets alone, so no need for spacers or a wider bogie frame.

[brossard]

"You can just put the stub axles in a drill chuck (or lathe)  and do the filing down"

 

Ah yes, so you can.  I haven't encountered split axles for rework to EM.  I've machined flanges by installing them in their axle on my Dremel and running them against a file.  Thanks Keith.

 

John

[decauville1126]

Thanks for the tips. Branchlines website doesn't seem to have been updated since 2008, so suspect i'll have to try calling them. Im thinking i should have looked into getting conversion kits prior to splashing out on a model. Surprised this is so difficult, must be a gap in the market for someone to jump into. 

 

thanks again

An email to them with a request for current pdf price lists works wonders. Just explain which you are interested in as there are several for 4mm and 7mm scales - suggest 4mm scale wheels, motors, gears one.

[drjcontroller]

I think Branchlines may be on holiday, I've been ringing 2-3 times a day since Monday and no reply. Will try again next week.

[Grovenor]

Why not ring Colin at Alan Gibson workshop, I note his catalogue currently lists only the undersize wheels, item 4800/8 but I would expect him to be able to supply the correct size as he does them for the 31 anyway.

I converted mine before suitable conversion wheels were available so I fitted new tyres of the correct diameter to the Hornby wheels.

Keith

http://www.norgrove.me.uk/class50.htm

[pompeystuart]

Hi all. Just wanted to say that I went for the Alan Gibson option. The wheels were very easy to fit, they look great and most importantly, they work and run really well. Very happy and hope they continue to produce these conversion kits.