Bullhead rail for 4mm scale most likely OO

[MJI]

I am planning a small 1960s layout and want to use bullhead rail, Peco is all flat bottomed.

 

Found track at £5.50 a metre but points are nearly £50 each.

 

Any ideas what to use please, half tempted to try EM as well as the locos are Bachman and Dapol (hydraulics)

 

Happy to use flexible track but I can't afford those prices for point kits.

[Richard Lee]

Flexible Track

Bullhead flexible track for OO is made by SMP (owned and sold by Marcways), C&L and Exactoscale (now owned and sold by C&L).  They all do EM flexi-track as well. 

Points

For points you have 3 options. 

 

Firstly, make kits, which as you seem to have found out, is not necessarily a cheap option.  There may be cheaper alternatives than C&L.  If you do OO, I suggest that you make sure that you know what track gauges you get, and the implications.  Others are better placed to go into these issues.

 

Secondly, you can buy ready-made copper-clad points from someone like Marcway.  A set of 36" radius left or right handed points cost £25.50, or 4 for £90.  No chairs on them, but that isn't so noticeable after you ballast.  Marcway match SMP (and I assume C&L) flexi-track in height.

 

Thirdly, some people use Peco Code 75 points with SMP, C&L or Exactoscale flexi-track.  SMP and C&L track has thinner sleepers than Peco Code 75, so that there is a height difference if you want to use SMP or C&L flexi-track with Peco Code 75 points.

 

I understand that Exactoscale matches the height of Peco Code 75 quite well, but I have no personal experience with it, so you might want to ask others.  I understand that with Exactoscale you have to thread the rails into the track base.

 

I used SMP with Marcway points.  Marcway points are a little stiff, so I had difficulty using the Mercontrol wire in a tube system.  I ended up using the Marcway point levers.

 

EDIT:

 

http://marcway.net/list2.php?col=head&name=Marcway+00+%26+EM+Pointwork

 

http://www.finescale.org.uk/

[Dave Scott]

One simplish answer is to build the pointwork yourself. If you can solder a kit you can plan and make pointwork.  To plan the pointwork use tracksetta curves and straight. When you have the broad outline of the turnout or diamond get a piece of strong paper or card and cafefully trace the shape oh the point being careful to acurately mark the interseps.. Mount the drawing on MDF. Get a length of clear tape longer than the paper roll up the ends and fix sticky side up along one edge of the point. Repeat for the other edge.Cut copperclad to length and place on tape. Construct the vee of the crossing first. You will need to file matching vs on the two rails. The hardest part is profiling the blades. Its boring work with a file but worth it.Where the blades meet the running rails I found a joggle more effective than an undercut as used on peco. On a previous loft layout I built some striking complex pointwork bespoke to the situation. 

[Dave47549]

.

[CloggyDog]

This thread might also prove useful.

 

If you buy the basic components (rail, sleeper strip, etc) and can file the vees and switchblades up yourself (not difficult, with practise... and you only need a couple of offcuts of rail to practice if necessary) you can bring the price down substantially (it's those pre-made vees and switchblades that make the C&L kits expensive).

 

And I'd certainly recommend trying EM - most RTR diesels will stand the wheelsets being regauged wider without ill-effect (about half of my EM fleet is simply regauged RTR) - it does look better than 00.

[Hayfield2]

If you want to build your own turnouts, which is the probably only way of having a decent looking turnouts. Then you have 2 options

 

1 build using copperclad sleeper strip, cheapest method as turnouts come out at under £5 a go. Use component parts not kits, C&L or Marcway

 

2 Chaired track, kits are in the region of £50. Using the components and making your own crossings and switch rails they come out at about £12 to £14 in components. You will end up with a model far superior to anything you can buy off the shelf. Templot (free software) will produce building templates(plans) in all sizes,curves,formations

 

Many are put off by others experience needlessly, as there are a few basic building processes that have to be learnt that's all. You have all the help available you need on this site

 

My work bench  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/57911-hayfields-turnout-workbench/

[MJI]

I will try DIY I think, only two or three and I want them on a very gentle (6 foot or more) curve

[Hayfield2]

Martin

 

Give Templot a go, you will find that by curving a turnout the radius on the branch road reduced dramatically. If you were going to use an A5 (medium size against rtr) then increase to a B7 or B8 (these letters and numbers describe the size of turnouts)

[Siberian Snooper]

Templot is a steep learning curve, although somewhat easier than it first was, but once you've mastered the basics you can design your trackwork to look how you want it as you're not restricted to a few straight turnouts as most templates and set track are. Follow the Templot tutorials a few times and finally the penny wil drop and the world is your oyster.

 

As far as track building goes start off by soldering a few turnouts first to get the hang of how it all goes together, I cut my teeth on soldered trackwork and I'm now in the process of using the chairs and baseplates now available to build the track.

 

I wish you every success.

 

SS

[MJI]

This is a mini layout to try out a few things, staying code 100 OO for my modern image stuff (1980s)

[uax6]

Of course you could use Peco points and add dummy chairs to them, just like Ben Alder did on his 'Far North Line', the result is very pleasing!

 

Andy G