WESTDALE BULLEID SEMI-OPEN BRAKE THIRD KIT 7MM

[jimbo]

Hi All,

 

Just started to build the Westdale Bulleid semi-open brake third...will post some photos' soon....

[jimbo]

Hi All,

Here are a couple of photos' showing progress so far...

 

Jim

[Mallard60022]

 

I'm going to be an ar*e and mention that the sides look a little 'flat' but it might just be the angle of the shot? However I do like the look of the roof; grand job.

P

[Ceptic]

2526_20090713_0036.jpg

2526_20090209_7981.jpg

 

I'm going to be an ar*e and mention that the sides look a little 'flat' but it might just be the angle of the shot? However I do like the look of the roof; grand job.

P

 

Hi Jim.

 

Rivet count 'On'......I agree, it looks flat sided... Also, the roof mounted rainstrips... should be more concentric / parallel to each other, and check whether, depending on the period modelled, the upper one hadn't been removed. (See Mallard's pics)......Rivet count 'Off'.

 

Otherwise. it's looking good.

  Thanks for posting.

[jimbo]

Thanks for the replies..

This is my first attempt on a coach. The Westdale kit comes with an mdf base and is mainly glued. The instructions are a bit scant to say the least,luckily I have the Mike King book on Southern coaches and a lovely CRT kits coach (asembled/painted by them)s to compare.

Also this is my first real soldering attempt as I bought the Wayoh bogies and after a little experimentation and swearing now enjoy brass soldering !

 

Ciao.

Jim.

[Mallard60022]

Yes sorry Jimbo, I rather pounced on that point of sides. However, when I first started doing coaches (and I must recommend Comet's Bulleids for ease of build and having a good Bulleid 'shape'), I got really excited but then later disappointed that my coaches didn't quite look right. It's a bit disheartening when us 'oldies' mention these things, however I think you will want your coaches to look 'right' after putting in a load of hard work.

All the best and enjoy building more, but do etched ones.

Phil

[jimbo]

Hi Jim.

 

Rivet count 'On'......I agree, it looks flat sided... Also, the roof mounted rainstrips... should be more concentric / parallel to each other, and check whether, depending on the period modelled, the upper one hadn't been removed. (See Mallard's pics)......Rivet count 'Off'.

 

Otherwise. it's looking good.

  Thanks for posting.

Hi Again,

 

With regard to rainstrips,how do I know if it requires one or two, bearing in mind this is modelled on a later type with larger ventilators. 

thanks.

Jim.

[Ceptic]

Hi Jimbo.

 

Sorry for jumping the gun with my criticism, but, what it boils down to,...is,,, How accurate do want your model to be ? ....It, also, depends on the period that you are modelling.....

 

Judging by your pics in post #2, I'm guessing, by seeing a B'm'th 6-Car set's RKB in the background, that it's late 1950s / early / mid 1960s ?

 

 During the period that your model / these BR(S) built coaches were operational, they were subject to a few modifications. For instance, the central, U/f mounted, single cylinder braking system reverted back to the twin cylinder, diagonally opposed layout. These can be picked out by looking for the Brake linkage 'Vee' hangers positioned outside the U/f trusses.

A little later, the upper, of the two per side, Rain-strips, plus the coaches' upper end steps started to disappear, around the end of the 1950s / early 60s.... Summat to do with the advent of 15.00Kv / 25.000Kv of other Regions and it's problems with 'Flashover'.

 

Also, Mallard's pic, shows a re-skinned Bulleid BSK, of the same BR(S) vintage. Note the lack of body-side beading, often to be seen in pictures of the 1950s / 60s.

BR(S) did initiate a programme of re-cladding, but, this occurred, somewhat 'late in the day'.

As always,...a photo helps. Have a look here...  https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=richard+salmon+/+bulleid+coach+underframe&biw=1360&bih=643&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=GQQOVJH3Jc-f7Abk4YDADA&ved=0CC8QsAQ

 

All the best,

Frank.

[Ceptic]

Also,......Topic title....It's a little like calling Churchward,....errr,....Churchwood.....

...The devil is in the detail.

[jimbo]

Also,......Topic title....It's a little like calling Churchward,....errr,....Churchwood.....

...The devil is in the detail.

OOps,

sorry about spelling!!

[jimbo]

Hi Chaps,

 

With regards to rainstrips on a Bulleid semi-open third with later,larger ventilators.

Did any of these vehicles have 2 rainstrips either side or just one as I can only find pics of coaches having one either side ?..mmmm

 

thanks to all.

 

Jim B

[Tavy Man]

The drawings I have show them as having both rain strips when built but there was a policy of replacing them with one during works visits when the roof needed repair or re-cladding so it's really a case of date evidence using photographs.

The large ventilator semi open brake thirds also had different length water tanks on the roof. Those formed into sets 850 to 865 in 1951 had the longer tanks fitted. The history of Bullied loose stock is complicated and I recommend David Gould's Bullied's SR Steam Passenger Stock book if you can get hold of one. It's a mine of information and drawings for Bullied coaches.

[Ceptic]

Photos by Michael Blackbourn, taken at Bournemouth Central in 1963, show :-

3(Car)-Set No.863, made up of Bulleid (BR/S built) coaches...

BSK No. S 2527 S 

 CK No.  S 5921 S

BSK No. S 2528 S

 

All three coaches feature two rain strips each side, per roof, waist height raised beading, body-side skirts reinforced and the twin cylinder vacuum brake arrangement.

 

Please note, This set is forming part of a Bournemouth West portion of a Weymouth - Waterloo train. Therefore, at the time, it'll be on the SW Division's books.

 

Let us know how you get on.

All the best,

Frank.

[Ceptic]

Out of interest, the 1963 CWN shows only three BSKs listed as 'Loose'. Two BR(S) built Bulleids, Nos. S 2529 S & S 2530 S and a single BRCW built version, No.S 4210 S.

I'd also back up Tavy Man's recommendation of David Gould's book 'Bulleid's S.R. Steam Passenger Stock'. ...Prices do vary !

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bulleids-Southern-Railway-Steam-Passenger/dp/0853614679/ref=sr_1_30?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1410785361&sr=1-30&keywords=david+gould

 

http://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/SearchResults?an=David+Gould&sts=t&tn=Bulleid%27s+S.R.+Steam+Passenger+Stock

[jimbo]

Hi All,

 

Thanks for all the info..

Haven't posted any updates recently as I have got bogged down in making the underframe,soldering iron misbehaving,new tip required.

I will keep the two rainstrips either side as I have found a pic showing this with large ventilators.

 

ciao.

 

Jim.

[jimbo]

Hi All,

 

Just a couple of pics showing interior progress and Westdale jumper cables in wrong place so am removing them for new CRT kits ones'

ciao.

 

JIm..

[jimbo]

Hi chaps,

 

Still beavering away at the Westdale coach..

Here are some pics of latest work,just put grab handles on took ages to get rightish !!

 

Jimbo.

[mike hughes]

So far, so good

Out of interest how did you glue the rainstrips on?

When I glue my plastic rainstrips on I found that Canopy glue is good.

 

Mike

[jimbo]

So far, so good

Out of interest how did you glue the rainstrips on?

When I glue my plastic rainstrips on I found that Canopy glue is good.

 

Mike

Hi Mike

 

I glued the rainstrips on with a mixture of superglue and araldite here and there making sure I remembered to clean any excess of as this takes forever to remove.

 

I am soon to be painting the aluminium body/roof.

Does anyone recommend a good primer in spray can form for this ?

 

ciao.

 

Jim

[peter220950]

 

Hi Mike

 

I glued the rainstrips on with a mixture of superglue and araldite here and there making sure I remembered to clean any excess of as this takes forever to remove.

 

I am soon to be painting the aluminium body/roof.

Does anyone recommend a good primer in spray can form for this ?

 

ciao.

 

Jim

 

Jim,

 

Halfords sell a nice grey etch primer that seems pretty good on brass and aluminium.

[mike hughes]

Hi Mike

 

I glued the rainstrips on with a mixture of superglue and araldite here and there making sure I remembered to clean any excess of as this takes forever to remove.

 

I am soon to be painting the aluminium body/roof.

Does anyone recommend a good primer in spray can form for this ?

 

ciao.

 

Jim

Yes araldite takes a bit of cleaning up once hard!!

For painting of the bodyshells, spray on Etch primer b ut did use to use Halfords

 

Mike

[jimbo]

Thanks Mike.

I think building this coach is as involved as a loco !!!

 

Jim

[jimbo]

Hi All,

 

Still plodding away on the Bulleid 3rd !!

I am finally to the paint stage,more fun and games methinks but  can see some light at the end of the tunnel.

Here are my latest shots.

 

The only thing that concerns is gluing the body to the chassis..more fun ahead.

 

Oh well,presss on...

 

ciao all.

 

Jimbo.

[Bodmin Bob]

Hi Jim

 

I am watching your thread with interest having built many Bulleid and Maunsell coaches in both O and OO gauges over the years.

 

I have built Westdale kits but was intrigued as to why you are looking to glue the chassis to the body as this will create potential issues if you ever need to get back into the interior in the future as the sides and roof are one sheet of metal so you would end up with a sealed box.

 

From memory Westdale kits come with a rather unsatisfactory pair of small wooden blocks that are meant to be glued to the insides of the coach ends so that you can then drill a hole at each end of the chassis and then screw the wooden chassis through the holes onto the wooden blocks. I didn't like the thought of using small wooden blocks or a single screw at each end so I bought some 3/4'' aluminium angle from my local DIY store and cut two lengths that would fit inside the coach ends'

 

I then cut 2 strips of copperclad PCB board to the same length as the aluminium angle and fixed one on the inside edge of each of the angles using epoxy resin. I then drilled two holes right through each angle and the PCB so that I would end up with a hole in each corner of the chassis, Brass nuts were then soldered over the holes in the PCB. The plain side of the aluminium angles were then glued (using Epoxy) to the inside of the coach ends with the PCB and the soldered nuts in the coaches  facing upwards towards the roof.

 

Once set, the lower ridge of the angle will rest on top of the wooden coach floor at each end of the coach and matching holes can then be drilled through the wooden  chassis so that  brass bolts can be thread through the chassis through the holes in the angle and PCB and into the nuts soldered on top of the PCB.

 

Once completed you will have a sturdy structure that will enable the chassis to be easily removed if ever required. 

 

Hope this helps - I can post some photos if it help to show further.

 

Regards

 

Bob

[jimbo]

Hi Jim

 

I am watching your thread with interest having built many Bulleid and Maunsell coaches in both O and OO gauges over the years.

 

I have built Westdale kits but was intrigued as to why you are looking to glue the chassis to the body as this will create potential issues if you ever need to get back into the interior in the future as the sides and roof are one sheet of metal so you would end up with a sealed box.

 

From memory Westdale kits come with a rather unsatisfactory pair of small wooden blocks that are meant to be glued to the insides of the coach ends so that you can then drill a hole at each end of the chassis and then screw the wooden chassis through the holes onto the wooden blocks. I didn't like the thought of using small wooden blocks or a single screw at each end so I bought some 3/4'' aluminium angle from my local DIY store and cut two lengths that would fit inside the coach ends'

 

I then cut 2 strips of copperclad PCB board to the same length as the aluminium angle and fixed one on the inside edge of each of the angles using epoxy resin. I then drilled two holes right through each angle and the PCB so that I would end up with a hole in each corner of the chassis, Brass nuts were then soldered over the holes in the PCB. The plain side of the aluminium angles were then glued (using Epoxy) to the inside of the coach ends with the PCB and the soldered nuts in the coaches  facing upwards towards the roof.

 

Once set, the lower ridge of the angle will rest on top of the wooden coach floor at each end of the coach and matching holes can then be drilled through the wooden  chassis so that  brass bolts can be thread through the chassis through the holes in the angle and PCB and into the nuts soldered on top of the PCB.

 

Once completed you will have a sturdy structure that will enable the chassis to be easily removed if ever required. 

 

Hope this helps - I can post some photos if it help to show further.

 

Regards

 

Bob

 

Thanks Bob,

 

Westdale intructions on joining the body to chassis were unclear so I assumed you glue both together at the solebar !!!

Thanks for the info . Your photos' would be great.

Building this coach has taken forever as the kit did not have all of the brass sections needed.

 

JIm.