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My weathering projects.


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You've developed a really nice approach there, Ben. Super stuff, I'd say, and what I think's especially good is that they DON'T look airbrushed... as so many other 'airbrushed weatherings' do.  Tell me more about how you go about it!!!  I'm really keen to know...

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Thanks for the kind comments. Some of it was applied as a 50/50 wash and wiped of with cotton buds or different paint brushes of various stiffness dipped in thinners, sometimes while still wet or had been left a few hours or even days to get the required effect. The tanks were built up in layers getting darker as more went on.

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Like your thread and work Ben.

 

All I will add is that dirty wheels really finish the job, a bit like greased up buffers.

 

The OBA Is crying out for brake discs to be fitted. That would really be the cherry on the cake.

 

Top stuff though.....more please....

 

Nick

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Latest project nearly complete, ex works 47635. Painted the plastic looking bogies and fuel tank, painted wheels black and added white walls, front buffer beam pipes added ect with silver buffers. Just need to add the cab cables and maybe paint the handrails white (don't want to break or loose them).

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Hi Ben,

Some very nice work here.

 

One thing you might like to try is showing where some of the grime has been rubbed off to reveal shiny paintwork, such as on cab doors and access the odd panel, as this will really highlight your other work. Contrasting your weathering with the underlying shiny paint is key to bringing out your hard work. The technique I use is like using T-cut on your car's paintwork. I use metal polish to 'cut back' the micro thin layers of airbrushed, back to the underlying finish. Using metal polish on a cotton bud is good for irregular areas, like around door handles, and use masking tape to get a sharp edge on removed panels. The nice thing is that this doesn't just remove the airbrushed paint, layer by layer, to your base colour, it polishes that paint to give a nice sheen.

 

Anyway, Ben, I'm following your blog, as you've got some interesting ideas here. Thank you.

 

Richard

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By the way, I ran out of Satin clear varnish yesterday. Only had Gloss or Matt, and needed to seal some weathering powder on a Mk1 coach. Well, as it takes a few coats of varnish to thoroughly protect weathering powders from handling, I thought I'd go with the Gloss, as the initial coat to protect my handiwork, then finish off with the satin.

 

Wow, the result was a complete surprise! I 'dusted' it on from a distance. Because of that, the paint particles didn't merge, so were Satin, rather than Gloss. So far, so good.

 

I let the Gloss varnish dusting dry, then gave it another go. The result was incredibly good!! I'm modelling a coach that was glossy shiny, but has some weathering. Ideally, some of the gloss shows through. And, folks, that's exactly what I was able to reproduce by 'dusting' with Gloss varnish.

 

Some parts of my carriage are weathered Satin, while in a few panels, you can envisage the underlying glossy coach shining through. Another bit of knowledge to add to our modeller's toolkit. ...and, showing you learn something new every day. (Still love your models Ben.)

 

Rick

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Not exactly "weathering", but, on another rmweb thread, I've suggested that smoking compartments of passenger coaches should have yellowed (smoke-tar stained) windows. These would be set off by the clear windows of the non-smoking compartments.

 

Anyway, thought I'd throw it in as food for thought.

 

So, Ben, have you tried these specialist 'paint chip' and 'wet look' acrylic paints? They sound interesting, and I'm hoping to hear others' experiences.

 

Keep up the good work,

Rick

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