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Challenge: Design a card loco kit.


hartleymartin

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Would be much appreciated, please! not having to couple the wheels would mean that not being able to set the quartering wouldn't matter - making a very free running, reliable mechanism - I have used the same technique with a diesel and the loco I use as my avatar. both run like they were using expensive mechanisms and chassis.

 

slater's loco wheels would solve the problem completely, and let me couple them, and maybe even have outside mechanisms - but I don't want to spend £40 on a loco that has otherwise cost under £15 (including £8 for the wagon wheels!)

 

alternative - anyone know of a cheap source of 0 gauge loco wheels? don't really want to re-gauge 00 ones, as that will be back into the same problems, with added inaccuracies

 

cheers

 

Andy

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"... and a good 40:1 or 54:1 gearset. "
 
I agree with your earlier recommendations on wheels and gearbox but, in 7mm, 40:1 or 54:1 is a rather high ratio.  It is not necessary for modern can motors, a lower ratio will be much more efficient and noticeably quieter.
 
I can recommend Ultrascale gears; they are inexpensive and come in a huge range, the Nylatron (carbon-filled nylon)  worm is self-lubricating and contributes to the quietness.
See: www.ultrascale.com/eshop/products/CAT015#WWGS4  I would go for something in the 20:1 to 30:1 range.  Do not be put off by their quoted delivery times, for their normal gear range it's by return post.

 

I have used these gears as replacements for the conventional 40:1 steel worm + brass worm wheel that were supplied in some kits and they have transformed the loco performance.

 

David

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"... and a good 40:1 or 54:1 gearset. "

 

I agree with your earlier recommendations on wheels and gearbox but, in 7mm, 40:1 or 54:1 is a rather high ratio.  It is not necessary for modern can motors, a lower ratio will be much more efficient and noticeably quieter.

 

I can recommend Ultrascale gears; they are inexpensive and come in a huge range, the Nylatron (carbon-filled nylon)  worm is self-lubricating and contributes to the quietness.

See: www.ultrascale.com/eshop/products/CAT015#WWGS4  I would go for something in the 20:1 to 30:1 range.  Do not be put off by their quoted delivery times, for their normal gear range it's by return post.

 

I have used these gears as replacements for the conventional 40:1 steel worm + brass worm wheel that were supplied in some kits and they have transformed the loco performance.

 

David

 

I'm after some super slow-running. I also have to use a Mashima 1824 in one loco - the Tower Models 14" barclay which is basically a huge lump of pewter which will out-haul almost anything else I've ever encountered. The only locomotive that it probably won't out-haul is the NSWGR AD60 class, which is a monstrous 4-8-4 + 4-8-4. I used to have an 1833 with a 40:1 gearset but I want it even slower. The 1824 will mean that I can get a small flywheel into the mechanism to compensate for the pick-up problems typical of an 0-4-0.

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oh I quite agree, but my current budget with a small child is just about £0 - maybe the cost of card, superglue, paint ...

 

the card cutter was pricey, but a treat, and one that could be justified because it has already had a lot of use, and saved a lot of money and time - more than paid for itself already.

 

I would love them, but saving up even for a £40 set of wheels? by the time I had the money, my small human would need new shoes or something. so, it is a necessity, not a preference!

 

mind you, it would probably run better, which would be nice - maybe sometime I will afford it. the tramway drawings will allow me to do one using 3 hole wheels, and no running gear - I have built a couple like this, and the running qualities and reliability are excellent. it might be a bit out of era, but I think it will look ok!

 

that said, the locos run fine. with clean track and very clean wheels and pick ups, they run slowly and smoothly ... until the wheels slip out of true for the quartering. I have tried superglue, but it doesn't hold well enough. you would genuinely think I had spent some money! it is fine for at home, but having had an exhibition invite, will they stand up to 2 days of running?

 

hope that doesn't sound like a rant ...

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With the side skirts of tram locomotives, I wouldn't even bother with coupling rods. I'd have a motor to one axle and maybe a chain or some cogs to the second axle. I would just use ordinary wagon wheels. I've been toying with the idea of building a Y6 on and off for a few years. I reckon that it would be worth building it in scale timber. The only drawings I have, though, are the ones from the 1960s when the Rev. W.V. Awdry built his!

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my photo is just that - wagon wheels, cheap drive, no connecting rods, card body, plasticard chassis, runs like it cost £200 :) I cheated on the bufferbeams, and used a set off a wagon kit - the one that had donated the wheels, I think.

 

Here are the drawings for the body. Leave you to work out the rest for yourselves. You just layer up the sides like you would do for a coach.

tram engine.pdf

post-11344-0-54488700-1422547475.jpg

post-11344-0-42943000-1422547480.jpg

post-11344-0-21528700-1422547571_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for the very well laid out Y6 card kit!

It would be interesting to see a photo of your chassis & how you did this.

The Rev Awdrey drawing is quite accurate, he was able to take the dimensions from the actual loco. One of my books has a GA drawing, ie you can see the engine & boiler detail as well but the exterior is not detailed.

 

The Y6 which got away to Derby & Melbourne for war service & nearly survived has always interested me.

 

Dava

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Like that a lot - very hard-working appearance.

 

I don't suppose anyone has a picture of any of these tiny locos with tramway skirts? it would make life a lot easier as a build!

 

cheers

 

andy

Www.GERSociety.org.uk has drawings of the GE 0-4-0 locos for $2.40, they also have the tram loco

 

 

Dava

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