hartleymartin Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Well that's half-way to the challenge I issued for a card kit. You'd basically only need to add instructions! How about a Neilson Box tank? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Instructions may follow working on the coal boxes and the boiler fittings now. Am having a certain amount of difficulty converting the cutting sheets from my designs into PDFs, but will persist... I am looking forward to seeing how people get on with it. I have had a good look at the box tank, the main problem that I can see is the lack of footplate to strengthen the card chassis - everything is pretty well on show below the tank. A hybrid / freelance job based on the chassis I designed for this would be easy enough, or a kit version of Jim's Y7 Just twigged what the picture is, Martin - where do you play the organ? Choirmaster and lapsed organist here Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NeilHB Posted October 14, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 14, 2014 Andy if you are having difficulty in converting to PDF I would be more than happy to pay for an actual set of parts if that makes it easier for you? With the Box Tanks - I wonder if you could utilise the box-like nature of the body to provide the strength to the chassis that the footplate normally provides? There is a useful scale drawing here of the West Somerset Mineral Railway's Box: http://www.westsomersetmineralrailway.org.uk/welcome/images-and-drawings/search/?entryid45=8220 Cheers, Neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Instructions may follow working on the coal boxes and the boiler fittings now. Am having a certain amount of difficulty converting the cutting sheets from my designs into PDFs, but will persist... I am looking forward to seeing how people get on with it. I have had a good look at the box tank, the main problem that I can see is the lack of footplate to strengthen the card chassis - everything is pretty well on show below the tank. A hybrid / freelance job based on the chassis I designed for this would be easy enough, or a kit version of Jim's Y7 Just twigged what the picture is, Martin - where do you play the organ? Choirmaster and lapsed organist here A kit version of the Y7 is probably ideal. No outside valve gear, save for the coupling rods, and I am fairly certain that a 1" plastic pipe is the right diameter for the boiler. I'm the Assistant Organist at St Margaret Mary's Catholic Church in Merrylands, NSW (a western suburb of Sydney) but I do a lot of work for the Sydney University Chaplaincy as well as being a permanent member of St Patrick's Cathedral Choir in Parramatta, NSW (first tenor). The picture you see is from about the time the 1882 Walker and Sons organ was Solemnly blessed at the new Benedict XVI Retreat Centre at Grose Vale (way, way out west of Sydney - about 1.5-2 hours drive.) On occasion I play a similar Walker organ at the Campion College chapel where I also sing in the college choir. I also do weddings and funerals from time to time. Like quite a few young church musicians, I am spread about the place, but it's a nice occupation. It would be nice to have a permanent well-paying position somewhere, but when you don't have all the bits of paper and years of experience that other musicians have, you can't be picky. For the Neilson box tank. I would make the chassis un a U-section with transverse frames to form strengtheners. I have been thinking on and off about building one. I have a yard of 1" Aluminium U-channel somewhere, which I intend to use for the chassis. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Ok, finally sorted out how to print the silhouette files So here they are, Chassis, footplate, fire and smokeboxes and the tank No instructions as yet offered, but you clever people will be able to work it out - feel free to ask if there are problems. I tend to layer up heavy card a bit heavier than manila card folders. This sets really hard when you use superglue. Using thicker card works, but needs strengthening - seccotine works here. I have used it, but have got lazy now my new toy cuts everything out for me. The tiny holes are probably easier to glue and then drill out, rather than cut out first. Basically, its your model, do it whatever way works for you! One plea - please let me know how you get on, and post some pics in here. I would like to be able to present this in a more finished form , so help with the bugs would be great Cheers Andy smokebox and firebox.pdf chassis.pdf footplate.pdf ogee tank.pdf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NeilHB Posted October 14, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 14, 2014 Andy - thank you they are brilliant! Thanks for the tips re strengthening etc. Will definitely post photos - hopefully I can find some time this weekend to get cracking! Cheers, Neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrushType4 Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Ok, finally sorted out how to print the silhouette files So here they are, Chassis, footplate, fire and smokeboxes and the tank No instructions as yet offered, but you clever people will be able to work it out - feel free to ask if there are problems. I tend to layer up heavy card a bit heavier than manila card folders. This sets really hard when you use superglue. Using thicker card works, but needs strengthening - seccotine works here. I have used it, but have got lazy now my new toy cuts everything out for me. The tiny holes are probably easier to glue and then drill out, rather than cut out first. Basically, its your model, do it whatever way works for you! One plea - please let me know how you get on, and post some pics in here. I would like to be able to present this in a more finished form , so help with the bugs would be great Cheers Andy Hi Andy, Would it be possible for the DXF files so I can laser straight off please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 If they were, I would, but they are studio files. they any good? I can't afford a laser cutter, mine uses a blade Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 I'm interested in these blade cutters. Where do you get them? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 available online, mine was just over £100. definitely exceeded expectations - doesn't just speed it up and take the boring repetition out of things, but also cuts with an accuracy I could never do - glazing bars 0.5mm thick and perfectly straight... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrushType4 Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 If they were, I would, but they are studio files. they any good? I can't afford a laser cutter, mine uses a blade I think they will work. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 "I think that some people have dressed up one of the beginner's etched kits as a C14 by using the cylinders, cross head, etc from a Hornby 8F" Indeed. See here for an example of how I did this for a larger scale model engineer: www.davidlosmith.co.uk/LSWR_C14.htm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Very, very nice - the valve gear is convincing. I wouldn't guess it had come from another scale. I wonder how many tricks like that we miss? I am now off to the corner for a sulk, though Quality like that is rather beyond me, but I don't half like seeing it when someone else achieves it! Thanks for sharing Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 ive thought about that as well but not yet had a go at trying it out, i at least now know that it works Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted October 15, 2014 Author Share Posted October 15, 2014 I'll have to look into that sort of spares for a potential locomotive project! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Next stage developed, and I am starting to think we may be on to something here The coal bunkers have been built up and placed on (will be painted before glueing) as has the back of the "cab." Chimney and steam dome / safety valve / weird coffee pot thingy (someone please educate me) are made from cocktail sticks, sticky labels, card circles (thank you cutter once more) and LOTS of superglue. Once set, they are sanded down a little to take the edges off and enhance the shape. The chimney is surprisingly solid - wouldn't survive a fall, but you wouldn't want to bounce a brass kit either, would you? Next stage will be brakes, steps, big wooden buffers, maybe some sand boxes, name and number plates, that sort of thing. And then painting. Brain says all black, heart says something rather more elaborate. Took some pictures with some of my stock to give an indication of size, but bear in mind all my prototypes are tiny. The body of the coach is only a scale 5' tall, and the Brake Van was the smallest prototype I could find edited to add the latest pdf for anyone who wants it - coal bunkers and odd bits for the boiler fittings - mainly loads of circles the vast number of rectangles of the same size are to laminate for huge dumb buffers. I know I could use balsa, but I am on a mission here! coal bunkers and boiler fittings.pdf Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hesperus Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 It looks a lot better posed with some stock, I think it's because the low footplate makes the boiler and tank look to big when you don't have a visual reference. I love the decorative (safety valve?) thing. I wouldn't have known where to start making that. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
raymw Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Nice job, Andy. I tend to layer up heavy card a bit heavier than manila card folders. This sets really hard when you use superglue. needs a H&S warning, though -http://i901.photobucket.com/albums/ac213/DalekDave/superglue.jpg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 LOVE that picture! been there anyway - who needs fingerprints? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 What are you using for a motor and gearbox? I suppose the next big question is whether or not a Mashima 1833, flywheel and a 40:1 gear set will fit inside it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Don't know how big they are - the motor and gear box are from a Hornby Pug which I had bits of laying around. It isn't really up to the job, but I am doing this on a budget of £0, so have to use what is available. At some point I would like to put a proper box in. Had a look at the Box tank concept. If we can cope with some more freelancing, I could use the chassis, coal bunkers and firebox from this model, and then design a more cut away footplate and the box tank. It wouldn't be spot on, but would make a nice pair with this one. The aim there would be to utilise the motor, gears, and coupling rods from a Hornby "Smokey Joe" - not because it is an awesome combination, but they are available for very little money, and I feel these locos will appeal mostly to those who are wanting to dip their toe into the 7mm water, or who can't afford the more expensive models. What do we think? Worth a go as another option? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NeilHB Posted October 16, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 16, 2014 Andy - I say go for it - at the end of the day no two box tanks were ever alike - certainly not after they'd been modified by their owners after a time - the link below is Miner from the Redruth and Chacewater Railway in Cornwall - she arrived as an 0-4-0 box tank - before ending her days looking like this: http://www.restronguetcreeksociety.org/images/bsrail/r7.jpg Just a bit different I think! Cheers, Neil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hesperus Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Sounds great but I wonder if there's any other motor choices that are nearly as cheap but faintly capable of running slowly? Ringfield motor bogie perhaps? That said there's a few ideas on the gnatterbox about tameing the Hornby 0-4-0. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
raymw Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Not sure if relevant today, but when I was a nipper, I bought a triang 00 Dewry shunter (33/6 iirc) and Bill Manly, the manager of Webbers toy department in Exeter, replaced the twin start worm with a short length of 1/4 inch whitworth bolt - that halved the speed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cornamuse Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Ok - progress on the mark 1: Paint job, and a rather cruel shot of the lining. brake gear and steps added now needs a few odd details, name plates, clutter, dumb buffers and a better driver need to paint the wheel rims black, too the reason for the Hornby mechanism (and the slaters wagon wheels) is I am genuinely on a tight budget here, and happen to have a smokey joe kicking around, likewise the wheels. 4 proper wheels and a decent gearbox would make all the difference! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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