georgeT Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 Morning Jock. Thanks for the concern, feel a lot better now thank you, trying to get the track right on 'Hemp' so a busy day today, mixing SMP with hand built track ? and trying to get the sleepers to look right.... Regards George Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 Got the track about where l want it to go, l'm not going to bother with a cork base this time as the locos will be slow and a distance of 6' its hardly worth it ? need to mark out where the hidden magnets will go now ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 Hi Guys, Just thinking about the under track magnets l heed, and come up with this idea ?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aac Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Hi Guys, Just thinking about the under track magnets l heed, and come up with this idea ?? Using the strong rare earth magnets you are showing, I just glue them to the underside of the baseboard once the track is fixed in the right place. That way the track drives the position of the magnets, and not the other way round. It is an easy task to park two vehicles over the intended uncoupling point, hold the magnet underneath to check the uncoupling action, and then when happy just put a few drops of superglue on and locate it by watching the coupling action. There is enough time to slide it around to get it spot on before the glue dries. If the magnet isn't having a sufficiently strong effect (I use the 18mm rounds) just add another magnet to the first one - no glue required! This works for me through a 9mm ply baseboard surface, cork tile underlay and the sleeper depth. Hope this helps. aac Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Hello Acc. Thats a good idea, so l tried it out, but the magnets are not powerful enough ? thanks anyway George Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aac Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Hello Acc. Thats a good idea, so l tried it out, but the magnets are not powerful enough ? thanks anyway George Try adding another magnet to the one already located. Or try glueing one under the board. As long as the polarity is attracted to the underside of the magnet you have already located, it should work. Good luck. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 Hi George, just catching up on here, the magnets look very neat mate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted December 11, 2014 Author Share Posted December 11, 2014 Cheers Andy. Thought l would have a break from track building and get on with some more work on the box, needs a sanding and some steps..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted December 11, 2014 Share Posted December 11, 2014 Excellent work again mate, Looking forward to seeing it bedded into the Layout mate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted December 12, 2014 Author Share Posted December 12, 2014 Hello Bodge, Yes it should look nice, l have designed 'Hempshaw' to have more scenery this time and not all track also l don't want a flat baseboard so l have lots of cutting to do... George Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Todd Posted December 12, 2014 Share Posted December 12, 2014 Hello Bodge, Yes it should look nice, l have designed 'Hempshaw' to have more scenery this time and not all track also l don't want a flat baseboard so l have lots of cutting to do... George Moorings GT, I wanted flat b/board's ,but seem to have, Hillock's, or similar word(s) to that effect, at my b/board join's......... Like the magnet idea GT..........my yard, needs more thought on this. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 As mentioned before l HATE ballasting, its messy, wet and boring, so l have come up with a different way to achieve a decent looking track and no wet mess, how l have done this is to use industrial double sided tape, drop the ballast on and brush it along, give it a little press and then a good spray of cheap tarts hairspray then leave it to dry, all these bits of track are just testors as l had a couple of hours before going to work, now the track is all dry, l think it will do as l will air-brush some colour on to finish. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Very good George, but you need the colour on before ballasting NOT after, neat idea though and with Bitton being a semi permanent layout it may work well on there as well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 Hello Mate, l was just mucking about, trying this and that, l will do a point tonight to see how that works, this idea l heard about years ago but never tried it out, but it is a lot easier and no mess, could do away with the spray if its a stay at home layout.... George Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt_911 Posted December 14, 2014 Share Posted December 14, 2014 Interesting idea George. I'm just wondering how it will hold up over time Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ray H Posted December 14, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 14, 2014 I know its an experiment George but does the tape need to be a little wider to give you a decent shoulder? How would the tape idea work if you put the track on foam/cork? You'd need to fold the tape over the edge of the foam/cork to get the shoulder and wouldn't the ballast would drop off? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jock67B Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 Morning George, Looks very convincing mate! Kind regards, Jock. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share Posted December 15, 2014 Morning Andy / Duncan / RayH / Jock. Thanks for the comments guys, great to hear your views, l have always laid the track and ballast and then l spray the whole lot with a mixture of browns and when dry l add the weathering colours, l know that Andy hates this idea he likes to paint the track first, but l disagree as l find that the track gets wet and rusty and then drips down onto the ballast making it all the same colour ? The way the ballast will be done on 'Hempshaw' is very different to previous attempts on layouts, and one which l think is much less messy and much easier to apply, in fact it takes minutes to do, and no hanging around until its dry, a few coats of hairspray will hold it all in place, further coats if needed ? only time will tell ? George Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Jason T Posted December 15, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 15, 2014 It's not the track but the sleepers that need painting first as once ballasted, how do you paint them? The tops are ok to do retrospectively (but not ideal) but what about the sides and ends? The plastic colour they come in is too shiny and, well, plastic looking. Plus, your turnout sleepers would end up a different colour and shade if you left the SMP flexi un painted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share Posted December 15, 2014 Morning Jason. Thanks for the tip mate, l will find a brown spray and give the track an overall spray then ballast, what colour do you recommend ? looks like Bodgit was right hahaha George Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share Posted December 15, 2014 Well further to more trials with the track, l have found that hairspray is crap as it just don't secure the ballast enough, then had a brain wave and used some matt varnish, which l used to tone down the paintwork on my O gauge locos, and that seems to be much better and it has secured the ballast a lot better, At last l have listened to JasonT and Bodgit and will paint the track BEFORE the ballasting, the point has a coat of varnish and has dried with a nice overall matt finish, much better .... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Jason T Posted December 15, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 15, 2014 I used Railmatch Sleeper Grime from a rattle can, and then did the rails and chairs (by hand) with Phoenix Dark Rusty Rails. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew P Posted December 15, 2014 Share Posted December 15, 2014 I hope your tape holds the ballast on the pointwork George, as that looks really neat. All the best mate Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
georgeT Posted December 16, 2014 Author Share Posted December 16, 2014 Well l have had some great success with the matt varnish spray and it has held all the ballast in place nice and firm, so now the job of filling in all the slits in the track before painting begins... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jock67B Posted December 16, 2014 Share Posted December 16, 2014 Morning George, Lovely work mate, the track and points are going to look truly realistic when set in the layout, well done! I read somewhere about using a Dremel with some sort of 'burr' in it to rub the copper off the sleepers, making the electrical break without the need for the monotonous task of filling - might be worth experimenting with? Kind regards, Jock. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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