stannyblade Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 Downloaded the goods shed supplied on the cover DVD of BRM and in the instructions it says to coat the model with artists varnish or similar to seal the model from sunlight etc. Which one do you all use for this? is there a cheap one that will do the job? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
crompton 33 Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 I use artists varnish in a spray can this stuff is about £12.00 a large can. The smaller can's are about £8.00 . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stannyblade Posted October 31, 2014 Author Share Posted October 31, 2014 I use artists varnish in a spray can this stuff is about £12.00 a large can. The smaller can's are about £8.00 . Where do you buy it from please? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
crompton 33 Posted October 31, 2014 Share Posted October 31, 2014 I get mine from a small art's shop. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
14Steve14 Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 I bought some cheap matt varnish years ago from a pound type store. It finally ran out a few months back, so will have to go out again and find some more. The only advice I can give is to find a matt varnish and shake the can well. If you dont it can come out with a shiny or satin finish. You can also use ink jet fixative spray to seal most printed surfaces, but not too sure of the effect on non inkjet finishes. Also make sure you only apply light coatd rather than one heavy one. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
66C Posted November 7, 2014 Share Posted November 7, 2014 Downloaded the goods shed supplied on the cover DVD of BRM and in the instructions it says to coat the model with artists varnish or similar to seal the model from sunlight etc. Which one do you all use for this? is there a cheap one that will do the job? Thanks Hi Gavin Do you have or have access to an airbrush? Artists acrylic varnish sold in bottles by art shops is cheap and sprays very well if let down 50% with IPA. Using IPA means that it dries very quickly from the airbrush and so does not affect inkjet prints or wrinkle the paper. Much more economic compared to buying aerosol cans. Regards. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stannyblade Posted November 7, 2014 Author Share Posted November 7, 2014 Hi Gavin Do you have or have access to an airbrush? Artists acrylic varnish sold in bottles by art shops is cheap and sprays very well if let down 50% with IPA. Using IPA means that it dries very quickly from the airbrush and so does not affect inkjet prints or wrinkle the paper. Much more economic that buying aerosol cans. Regards. No I don't have an airbrush Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
george stein Posted November 14, 2014 Share Posted November 14, 2014 Writing from the USA so I'm not certain which products are always available in the UK. However, two spray can options might be considered if available: both from "Krylon" brand of paints widely available in USA in art, DIY and hobby shops. (1) "UV-Resistant Clear" matte acrylic coating and (2) "Preserve It!" matte digital photo & paper protectant. Both are especially useful for all our paper-based as both are matte & moisture-resistant. (now if I could just get A-4 sized paper products in the USA - lol). Really enjoy learning from the forum. George Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
philnet Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 I got hold of a tin of clear acrylic matt spray from hobbycraft, it seemed quite expensive (about a fiver) but then I've not really bought a tin of spray paint since I had my first car (a few years ago now!). The only mistake I made with it was to not shake it well enough, the first test coat I did (luckily on a small area), left white marks. A good shake and a swift action when spraying seemed to sort this out. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Lidl anorak and suede waterproofer...perfek for us! £2.50 a large tin... Parsimonious Chubber Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stannyblade Posted August 24, 2015 Author Share Posted August 24, 2015 Lidl anorak and suede waterproofer...perfek for us! £2.50 a large tin... Parsimonious Chubber Revisiting an old thread, Found a spray tin of fabsil last night, would that work? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Howe Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Revisiting an old thread, Found a spray tin of fabsil last night, would that work? There's only one way to find out! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Campaman Posted August 25, 2015 Share Posted August 25, 2015 Fabsil does work as it is basically the same as the Lidl waterproofer that Doug (Chubber) uses. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
David41283 Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 A recent accidental discovery, when my can of proper artists fixative ran out, and I turned to an old can of Games Workshop Matt Purity Seal. The games workshop spray - applied in several light coats - is a superb robust Matt varnish which protects the scalescenes sheets printed from my inkjet paper better than anything else I have tried so far. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 I am coming to the conclusion that with a few exceptions, pre-spraying is unnecessary when using good resilient inks such as Epson Durabrite. I don't wish to deliberately contradict John Wiffen or enter into an argument save for protecting exteriors from splashing during landscaping etc or ballasting.Pre-construction use inhibits watercolour weathering, can make papers brittle and is costly if proprietary artists' materials are used.Cleanliness and care are all that are needed, and a damp cloth used regularly to wipe tools and cutting mat will certainly help.Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold simonmcp Posted August 30, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 30, 2015 I would not know about using good quality inks as the person who I make models for uses cheap generic inks but the exterior varnish we use does bring out the colours of the prints well. I used to work in the print industry for 30 years and that was part of the reason for varnishes on commercial print. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Hi Gavin Do you have or have access to an airbrush? Artists acrylic varnish sold in bottles by art shops is cheap and sprays very well if let down 50% with IPA. Using IPA means that it dries very quickly from the airbrush and so does not affect inkjet prints or wrinkle the paper. Much more economic compared to buying aerosol cans. Regards. Thanks for the tip about using IPA. I would not have thought of that. Just picked up a bottle of Windsor and Newton "Galleria" varnish from "The Range" which was £4 for 75ml and will try that. I had a problem with inkjet printed papers developing a distinct red hue after spraying. Possibly the cheap PVA leaching through from behind or too much water in the varnish used to spray it combined with slow drying in cold conditions. No problem with the same varnish (Humbrol acrylic) brushed on in the summer. Regards. Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CourthsVeil Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 … I had a problem with inkjet printed papers developing a distinct red hue after spraying. Possibly the cheap PVA leaching through from behind or too much water in the varnish used to spray it combined with slow drying in cold conditions. … Could also be the ink used is the culprit. For example, I have problems as you describe with prints made with proprietary (!) ink from a well known PC/printer manufacturer. Never encountered the same with prints produced with other printers and their proprietary inks (same paper & varnish!). Armin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 Could also be the ink used is the culprit. For example, I have problems as you describe with prints made with proprietary (!) ink from a well known PC/printer manufacturer. Never encountered the same with prints produced with other printers and their proprietary inks (same paper & varnish!). Armin Yes, i have to agree.I use a Canon A4 & a Canon A3 printer & in the past, i have used non OEM inks with peculiar colour results on Epson printers in the past.I now only use Canon inks,expensive i know but you only get what you pay for. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 I cannot now remember what source the inks used originally were. My printer is an HP one but I usually buy ink from a local well known large supermarket chain so sometimes it's HP and somteimes its "own brand". My replacement prints are definately "own brand" printed on Staple matt photo paper (which is actually satin). I'll report back on results. No colour change after gluing the sheets on this time. Glued on some with Pritt stick and others with cheap spray adhesive from a pound store. Adrian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete22 Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Hi, I use Car Plan Clear Lacquer which is intended as a top coat for car paintwork or alloy wheels, it comes in a large 400ml spray can and is cheap. I spray all my inkjet prints before cutting them out from A4 paper sheet. 1 light spray is all that's needed to protect the ink from damp, sunlight fading is improved, I think. It dries with a matt finish as the paper absorbs. P. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darwinian Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 Well here we are six months on and my scalescenes wall has developed a reddish hue again. However an unused sheet printed at the same time, but not varnished, has no coclour change. Could it be the flourescent lights causing the inks to change? Seems unlikely. Or maybe the expanded polystyrene blocks it leans against are holding in moisture which is gradually drying out throught the wall. I'll have to live with it for now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chubber Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 Stands to reason to me that sprays designed to 'proof' clothing, suede shoes etc has to be a better bet for proofing texture papers as no one wants their clothes to change colour. Alternatively, the expensive sprays sold by art shops..... Petrloeum based DIY sprays would concrn me. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RAF96 Posted April 22, 2016 Share Posted April 22, 2016 I've always used Halfords clear acrylic spray cans on my Metcalfe models - inside and out - and I've not had any colour fading of red brick or stone patterns nor distortion due to damp. Some models are up to 8 years old and the train room here in Cyprus is subject to harsh sun on a daily basis, although the glass does have that reflective tinted thing to it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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