sagaguy Posted August 19, 2019 Author Share Posted August 19, 2019 Thanks Tony,this is progress so far.Yes,i have been using a piece of note paper as a spacer,harks back to my 4mm days.The cast expansion links are a vast improvement. Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobjUK Posted August 19, 2019 Share Posted August 19, 2019 Ever since I saw your photos of 10th & 11th July, I've been trying to figure out how the crosshead slides looked wrong, with the connecting rod hitting them. Just looking through the thread again, I realise they have mucked up the proportions of those in a big way! Look at the photo posted by dibateg on August 8th; the slide bars, from the rear of the cylinder to the inside of the support, are near enough identical length to the wheel diameter. The DHJ cast slide rails are visibly a lot larger than the wheel diameter, hence the geometry problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted August 20, 2019 Author Share Posted August 20, 2019 A very frustrating day,i decided to make a crankpin for the return crank.After machining the pin from steel rod down to .051,the diameter of a 12BA bolt,my new carbon steel 12BA die which i`ve had for a while but hadn`t been used, refused to cut any kind of thread on the shaft even though the pin was in a collet chuck on my lathe using the tailstock to keep it square.I suppose this is the folly of buying cheaper tools,it`s just cost me nearly £20 for a high speed steel die.Oh well!!. Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Foulkes Posted August 21, 2019 Share Posted August 21, 2019 On 19/08/2019 at 17:33, RobjUK said: Ever since I saw your photos of 10th & 11th July, I've been trying to figure out how the crosshead slides looked wrong, with the connecting rod hitting them. Just looking through the thread again, I realise they have mucked up the proportions of those in a big way! Look at the photo posted by dibateg on August 8th; the slide bars, from the rear of the cylinder to the inside of the support, are near enough identical length to the wheel diameter. The DHJ cast slide rails are visibly a lot larger than the wheel diameter, hence the geometry problem. If I can just stick my oar in as well? It's always hard to tell from photos taken at an oblique angle, but for my money the slide bars don't look to be inclined, relative to the track, at the same angle as the cylinder centreline on the model. Cylinders and pairs of slidebars should all share a common centreline which pretty much intersects the centre of the main driving axle. I'm also inclined to agree with robjUK, that the slidebars are are too long. Looking at the prototype photo the slidebars are bolted to brackets cast integral with the motion bracket and are also relieved at the ends, where they attach to the motion bracket. The nice, flat, machined part of the slidebars only needs to extend far enough from the cylinders to support the crosshead when it's at the outer dead centre position, which will be a mm or three in front of the motion bracket, going by the photos. The model photos show a little step at the outer end of each slide bar and I suspect this just needs to be extended a wee bit towards the cylinders. Doing that, plus correcting any error in the angling of the slidebars, should set things up so the con'rod no longer fouls the slide bars. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted August 22, 2019 Share Posted August 22, 2019 I'm afraid the DJH O gauge kit is riddled with errors.. the motion bracket being too far back is one of them. I wont catalogue the errors here, but my battle with the kit starts here:- There is more here http://www.westernthunder.co.uk/index.php?threads/the-derby-line-finney7-34091-weymouth.1128/ It sat on the shelf for the best part of a year whilst I was working out what to do with it... Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted August 23, 2019 Author Share Posted August 23, 2019 Slowly getting it sorted,i took Tony`s advice for the return crank pin & soldered a 12 BA nut onto a length of 1mm n/s wire & faced off the nut with a pin cuck in the lathe.I also shortened the slide bars so correcting a mistake i made earlierI hall set the return crank position using a small amount of super glue which can be sofened with nail varnish remover if needs be. Ray 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted August 24, 2019 Author Share Posted August 24, 2019 (edited) Well,i got the chassis running but the return crank unscrewed itself so i`ve ordered a bottle of Loctite 243 medium thread lock. Ray. Edited August 24, 2019 by sagaguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michl080 Posted August 25, 2019 Share Posted August 25, 2019 Ray, medium thread lock with very small threads is like soldering the thread. You might want to try first of you get the thread separated with this kind of thread lock before you use it at the ral thing. I am only using Loctite 221 and even this one is defined as "for small threads up to M12" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted August 25, 2019 Author Share Posted August 25, 2019 Thanks,just ordered 222 which appears to be the low cost equivilent of 221,used in the jewellry trade apparently. Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted August 25, 2019 Share Posted August 25, 2019 I have used 270 (I was gifted half a bottle that was skip bound 25 years ago) with complete success. On the odd occasion I have needed to release it, a quick kiss with a hot soldering iron has done the trick without collateral damage (usually Slater's wheels). 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted September 13, 2019 Author Share Posted September 13, 2019 A bit more progress on the Fairburn tank.One side of the valve gear is almost complete,just got to lock the 14BA nuts on the pivot bolts,i thought some clear nail varnish should do the trick. Ray. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted September 14, 2019 Share Posted September 14, 2019 Won't you need to take it down for painting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted September 14, 2019 Author Share Posted September 14, 2019 Yes eventually, it can be taken apart but at my rate of construction, it'll be quite a while. Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neiler Posted January 17, 2020 Share Posted January 17, 2020 Hi guys, Not sure if I get your driff but my Christmas gift was an O Gauge DJH 2-6-2 kit, I've built a lot of kits before but I found this kit ok, BUT you have to work out what parts go where! It would be a great help if the pockets were marked and the etch were numbered, I also found the instruction very hard to understand they say ie now fit parts 70 to 89 and so on, Not to sure where these go or to solder them together! The kit is of good quality but im not sure if I would buy another DJ.H 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 Is there not an exploded diagram showing where parts 79, 80, 81 etc fit? THEN you need as many good photos of your chosen loco as you can get, so as to see how it should look. A decent drawing helps too. Afaik, DJH also list every component, numbered, so you have some idea what you are looking for. Last, but FAR from least, if you don't know what a left handed sniderangler looks like, or does, come on here and ask. I would bet that someone on here knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastdax Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 14 hours ago, neiler said: Hi guys, Not sure if I get your driff but my Christmas gift was an O Gauge DJH 2-6-2 kit, I've built a lot of kits before but I found this kit ok, BUT you have to work out what parts go where! It would be a great help if the pockets were marked and the etch were numbered, I also found the instruction very hard to understand they say ie now fit parts 70 to 89 and so on, Not to sure where these go or to solder them together! The kit is of good quality but im not sure if I would buy another DJ.H Hi Nieler, Have you got any photos? I have one of these DJH 2-6-2s (BR Standard 2MT) in the SABLE pile awaiting building. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted January 18, 2020 Author Share Posted January 18, 2020 I've been building a DJH Fairburn tank loco off & on for a while. It's my first 0 gauge kit that i have bought. I've not had a problem with the instructions although some of the parts need modifications such as the fixing of the return crank.The etched expansion link gave me a problem but an email to DJH resulted in a lost wax casting being supplied solved the problem. Ray. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neiler Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 sagaguy how did you fix the centre crankpin ( the one with the four Imation bolts ) to the center crank how did you find this kit regards Neiler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted January 19, 2020 Author Share Posted January 19, 2020 3 hours ago, neiler said: sagaguy how did you fix the centre crankpin ( the one with the four Imation bolts ) to the center crank how did you find this kit regards Neiler I tapped the bush,pt.no 152,10ba as i used 10BA screws as crankpins.I reversed them & soldered the return crank to the flange of the bush & screwed it onto the crank pin.I got it in the right position & applied a small amount of medium strength loctite to the threads.I`m still building it albeit slowly as i do have a large Hornby Dublo 3 rail layout which takes up a lot of my time but i like a change now & again.I have a model engineering background so i don`t find the kit too hard but takes time to build it properly.This is my first 0 gauge loco kit. Ray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neiler Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 Thanks Ray do you have any pictures of the crank pin Cheers Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neiler Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 Just a thought Ray do think I could glue a 10ba NUT behind the wheel( reverse the bolt as original ) and then screw from the front, I may have to cut the bolt to length then I can solder the crank to the head!!! Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 44 minutes ago, neiler said: Just a thought Ray do think I could glue a 10ba NUT behind the wheel( reverse the bolt as original ) and then screw from the front, I may have to cut the bolt to length then I can solder the crank to the head!!! Keith I don`t think you`ll be able to do that,the bush is the bearing surface for the connecting rod as in the pic below. Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neiler Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 sorry Ray please excuse me but still not sure what you mean, when I said that I could screw the bolt the other way round I wasn't going to tap the bush but leave as normal and locate the bolt in the nut in the rear after cutting it to the right length thanks for your reply mate we will get it right won't we ! keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neiler Posted January 20, 2020 Share Posted January 20, 2020 Also Ray did you manage to fix the vertical rod to the top of the cylinder or have you left it free as my instructions don't mention fixing it any shape or form cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sagaguy Posted January 20, 2020 Author Share Posted January 20, 2020 5 hours ago, neiler said: sorry Ray please excuse me but still not sure what you mean, when I said that I could screw the bolt the other way round I wasn't going to tap the bush but leave as normal and locate the bolt in the nut in the rear after cutting it to the right length thanks for your reply mate we will get it right won't we ! keith Is this the crankpin for the eccentric rod you are asking about?.The vertical rod is a combination lever,it pivots on the top hole of the radius rod,the horizontal rod on the drawing.On the hole below that,part nos.149 & 150 are soldered back to back,one end forms a clevis which fits over the combination lever & a length of 1mm N/S wire soldered in at one end to form the pin.The cast valve guide,no 128,needs drilling about 1.6mm to accomodate the parts 149 & 150. Hope this helps,Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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