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Cley-on-Sea 1960s Norfolk mainline terminus


russ p
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  • RMweb Gold

A little more this afternoon, built a wall opposite the church to represent a hall or stately home which are quite prevalent in this area. Ive also poured the water in the river and i'm waiting for it to cure

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You've managed to cram an awful lot of small detail into those last few photos. The colour gradient between the ground scatter colours and I rather like that path in the church yard- it looks like it's been formed from years of walking along it- rather than the usual model version of "a thin meandering band where no scatter was glued in".

 

What did you use for the water?

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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks Derek, the path is the ground colour i painted the plaster with before I applied the static grass. I made the path before the plaster dried. I also set the buildings and walls into the plaster then removed them but left their indentations in if for refitting later.

The water is woodland scenics realistic water. Im a bit concerned about it as it may have reacted with the pva I sealed the board with even though i applied that ages ago

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Cheers Russ

 

Yes that is correct with PVA- it doesn't matter if it is dry or not and for how long. Any contact will cause cloudiness. The only way that I've found to overcome that (I can do all the engineering/scientific bits of modelling even though I can't do the artistic) is to seal it with something like Ronseal yacht varnish and then put the water over the top.

 

How deep have you made it? perhaps if it's thin enough, paint it in sort of rivery-greenybrown, seal it with varnish and then drop in another WS water coat- very thin so if it does it again then you can repeat the painting.

 

I like the way you did the path- the whole 'country' part of the layout looks pretty damned good as it happens.

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  • RMweb Gold

Just been upstairs, that woodland scenics water has soaked into / ran off the board!!

I'm off to Norwich tomorrow, will have another go but with ez water as that goes off a lot faster

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  • RMweb Gold

Disaster, tried the ez water,... Err far from it . Set to deep ,tried using a heat gun as per the instructions but just made a mess a warped the dock wall.

So tomorrow strip it all off and redo it with pva

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Derek, I really could do with some ripples in it, so will try and scrape it off tomorrow and get a big pot of PVA. I wish I'd actually stuck with the result I had this morning. I've had a bit of a wasted day, drove to Norwich to get the ez water, then after the mess had to borrow a heat gun from the north Norfolk railway so now given up!

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Forgive me if I appear to be trying to teach granny to suck eggs. I have built many micro planks now and have experimented with a lot of these things- it is bloody annoying when it doesn't work, and in my case, I just move onto a new bit of wood and try again- to have it damage your layout is far more serious.

 

Purely as an academic point, I tried plastering some wood with PVA and then when dry, sealing it with yacht varnish. I have put WS water over the top of this and there's no sign of cloudiness- BUT I don't think the WS is going to adhere to the varnish.

 

I think perhaps tomorrow I will repeat it but sand the surface of the varnish first.

 

I don't know if that info helps at all (please feel free to say so if it's no use)

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I don't think varnished PVA would work as varnish tries to bond itself together to a hard finish and you would be trying to put that over something that is inherently soft and liable to deform.

 

Like you and everyone else, I use a fair bit of PVA and I was trying to find a reliable way to use WS water alongside PVA.

 

What I found is that if there is TRACES of PVA, if you varnish the PVA to seal it (varnish- at least this yacht varnish) is pretty inert and acts as a good barrier between PVA and WS water. BUT when the varnish forms a hard, smooth surface you can clearly see that it is two different materials (though I suppose you could paint the varnish). I have gently sanded the varnish so that the WS then has something to 'grip' and thus doesn't form that clear line.

 

If you find that PVA works for you then go for it. I am well behind you on the layout stakes so please don't take my ramblings as de-facto.

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  • RMweb Gold

I've just filled it to get it reasonably flat,my idea is that when its sanded along with the old surface paint should key to it. That old stuff is impossible to removal as I don't want to risk using the heat gun again

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Looking really good, the scenes with the river, church and the wall round the hall remind me of the area around Somerleyton on the Norfolk Suffolk border were we still have all these elements close together in the one area. Very much enjoying this thread.

Regards Steve

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