topsy11 Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Hello. I thought I might as well start a blog/diary of my layout so I can see the progress and also hopefully receive some feedback and help along the way. I know this may sound strange but I'm not really a train fan and don't really know a great deal about railways or modelling so it may seem a little strange I'm building a model railway. I play train sim on the PC which led me to looking at a few video's of Oulton TMD. I went in to the loft and had a look at what I had to play with and started playing with a few track plans on Any Rail. 6 weeks ago the loft was nothing more than a place to store all our junk/Christmas decorations etc etc. I've boarded most of the loft out although still have a little work to do up there and would also like to add some decent loft ladders as well as a little more lighting as its quite dark at both ends. The main layout is 13ft long x 9ft wide and sits on 12mm MDF board which has been sealed. I wanted two main loops a station and a container yard as the main feature. I don't want to run lots of trains so decided against a large fiddle yard. I went in to this a little blind and hadn't heard of DCC and only really knew about Hornby - fast forward a few weeks and browsing this website and a few changes are already on the horizon. So this is what I've got so far.... My station area... This will eventually be a 3 platform station and is able to fit 3 x class 220/221's along the straight which is what I wanted. As you run clock wise out of the station you come to this part of the layout... There are two main sidings which open up to four at the bottom end of the layout with a Heljan loco depot at the bottom end. The sidings are 10ft in length and so should accommodate the longest of trains I want to run. A bit further up the layout you can see the diesel depot a little clearer. There's still some point work to sort out at the bottom.... The two lines on the left are the sidings. The third line from the left is the line that leads off to the container yard and the two on the right are the up/down mainlines. This is the opposite side to the above photo... Features a x-over and a line that branches off to the station area. Further up the board the 3 lines cross a small bridge which leads in to the container yard. Said bridge (still greatly work in progress) This is the opposite end to the station.... The line on the right leads round to the container yard and will end a tunnel where the camera was. It will then run around this part which will all be hidden out of view... This descends down to the container yard... Which is this part here and will be 7ft x 2ft. I'd of ideally liked this a little larger but can't really make the layout any wider and I want to be able to step over the yard so sit between it and the station - which I'll most likely operate the whole thing from. I purchased a HM2000 controller from eBay although it was a few weeks later when I got a second train and realised the controller was faulty in that channel B outputs full power so I've struggled to run 2 trains at a time. My wife has kindly agreed to by me a NCE Powercab for Christmas - which I'll be buy in 8 days time!! Plans for the next few weeks--- 1. Lift track 2. Finishing sealing the board with Rustins MDF sealer 3. Lay 3mm Cork to hopefully reduce running noise slightly as well as give me a bit better ballast bed 4. Run bus wires for DCC 5. Replace current track with Peco 100 - Concrete sleepers. I'm wanting to create a modern scene so decided I should of gone with concrete sleepers in the first place. I'm a little miffed Peco don't produce code 100 points with concrete sleepers. I've also soldered up a couple of pieces of Peco flexi track for the loop to the container yard and have created a lovely smooth single piece of track which is what I should of done on my main loop in the first place. So I will be using 36" pieces of flexi soldered together and also add dropper wires before laying on to the board. I'm not 100% happy with how some of my corners look at present so hoping this will give me the look I desire. I also want to add a little superelevation to the curves so will try and do this whilst I'm at it. I only want a slight 1mm elevation so we'll see how I get on. I'll update the thread as I complete the above work. All comments good/bad welcome. Thanks for looking and apologies for such a long post!! Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MachTwo Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Looking good! What loco's are you looking at running? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
topsy11 Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Thank You. Its a bit of a fantasy layout so nothing set in stone but its mainly going to be modern image diesels I think. I quite like the Class 37's / 56's and 60's. I'm not a huge fan of 66's or 70's but will no doubt add one of each to the layout at some stage. I've got a Virgin 221 in standard Virgin livery. I'd like to add a second in XC livery and then a small 3 car DMU - although I believe Bachmann are planning on producing a new one that's DCC in the future?? I've also purchased a Bachmann Class 37 (37410) as the wife liked the little dog on the side - its a superb runner although from reading up on that model it's from the 60's so a little older than I was planning on modelling. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
60059 Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Looks good some far mate, i will follow with interest. Have you considered peco code 75 concrete sleeper track which you can buy code 75 concrete sleeper points for? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
topsy11 Posted November 16, 2014 Author Share Posted November 16, 2014 Thanks 60059 - In an ideal world I'd probably go with code 75 track however having spent nearly £250 on track alone already I can't justify spending that again at the moment. I'll stick with the code 100 stuff and at least I can re-use the peco points I've got for now. I had a nightmare with the Hornby points I originally had as none of my wagons would run over them without de-railing which was another mistake on my part. I was looking at a small layout on here last night which used 'wooden sleepers' points with concrete straight track which he had painted to look like the concrete ones which is probably what I'll end up doing in the end. With a bit of weathering applied and some ballast it should hopefully tone things down a little. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium njee20 Posted November 16, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 16, 2014 Mmmm, contemplating painting sleepers on my (n gauge) layout, interested to know how you get on! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bennyboy Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 I've also purchased a Bachmann Class 37 (37410) as the wife liked the little dog on the side - its a superb runner although from reading up on that model it's from the 60's so a little older than I was planning on modelling. If this is the model you are referring to then it actually ran in this livery in the 80/90s so it won't look totally out of place on your layout. http://www.ehattons.com/17955/Bachmann_Branchline_32_382_Class_37_4_diesel_37410_Aluminium_100_in_BR_blue_with_large_logo/StockDetail.aspx And thanks for making those of us who can remember these locos feel really old. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
topsy11 Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 Hi Bennyboy. Yep that's the one and apologies if I make you feel old haha. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Looks good size setup for full length trains .... cheers neil. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doughnut Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 Looking very promising...looks like you'll be able to get some meaty trains on that layout, perhaps some full rakes. Will be keeping an eye on this one ...and modern image too...great stuff ! Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Chimer Posted November 25, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 25, 2014 I know it's been argued through in another thread, but I'd still be nervous about soldering lengths of flexi together in an attic Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
topsy11 Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 Thanks for the replies guys. I'm certainly keeping the heat/cold issue in my mind and will be monitoring over the next few months to see how things go. I've currently soldered 2 lengths of flexi track together which gives me a nice curve. I've got quite a bit more to do in the loft which should hopefully help with the temp changes. I'll post some pics up in the next few days. I've removed all the 'wooden sleeper' track and laid a 3mm cork bed and most of the 'concrete sleeper track' I've also changed the layout slightly which I'll show in the pics. I've also run a DCC bus under the boards and have soldered dropper wires to each piece of flexi track. I've also made the decision to swap a few of the points for Peco streamline (large radius) points instead which will hopefully allow the trains to run over them a little better as opposed to the standard points. Still lots and lots of work to do but the track laying is getting there slowly! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Chimer Posted November 26, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 26, 2014 The reason I'd be nervous about soldering in the attic is that rail joiners allow a little expansion or contraction as the temperature changes, but soldered joints won't. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
topsy11 Posted November 26, 2014 Author Share Posted November 26, 2014 I know mate, I've seen a couple of topics on the internet about, hence saying I'll be monitoring over the next few months in to when the temperature starts increasing again. I've not took a lot of notice before so don't know how warm it gets up there usually in the summer months but I've been up there for a couple of hours tonight and so the loft was left for around 18 hours and fairly chilly when I first went up. After having the heater on for several hours it was nice n warm in the loft with no movement of the track, so I'm not sure how much warmer it'll get up there. Only every two pieces of track are soldered and so there is some movement in the track if needs be (1-2mm per 6 foot) plus the only thing thats holding it down are the droppers at the moment so it is free to move on the cork a little as well. On a side note I managed to get a train running tonight on the new track - much much quieter than before which I'm guessing is down to the cork and the track not being fixed directly to the board. I'm obviously expecting it to increase a little once I add the ballast but very pleased after tonights short session. Once my order turns up from Hattons I'll hopefully have a complete loop and give it a proper try and post a video if anyones interested? Thanks Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sub39h Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Looks cracking mate! Wish I had the space you have! The mainline running over the tracks to the container yard remind me of the southern approach to Birmingham New Street where you see the container yard below you as you travel in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
60059 Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 I know mate, I've seen a couple of topics on the internet about, hence saying I'll be monitoring over the next few months in to when the temperature starts increasing again. I've not took a lot of notice before so don't know how warm it gets up there usually in the summer months but I've been up there for a couple of hours tonight and so the loft was left for around 18 hours and fairly chilly when I first went up. After having the heater on for several hours it was nice n warm in the loft with no movement of the track, so I'm not sure how much warmer it'll get up there. Only every two pieces of track are soldered and so there is some movement in the track if needs be (1-2mm per 6 foot) plus the only thing thats holding it down are the droppers at the moment so it is free to move on the cork a little as well. On a side note I managed to get a train running tonight on the new track - much much quieter than before which I'm guessing is down to the cork and the track not being fixed directly to the board. I'm obviously expecting it to increase a little once I add the ballast but very pleased after tonights short session. Once my order turns up from Hattons I'll hopefully have a complete loop and give it a proper try and post a video if anyones interested? Thanks Mark Having had a large layout in an attic for years I would definitely advise not to soldier track, I had problems with track expanding and bending alot, you'd be surprised how much it will expand! I ended uo leaving small gaps between each length of flexi track to allow them room, and in the summer months you could see the gaps disappeared completely, returning in winter! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongRail Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 looking good. Personally I wouldn't worry to much about code 75, I spend a fair amount out on the real thing and I don't see that the code 100 is to out of scale to todays standards. May be different in the early steam days but that is not what you are modelling after all. A model railway is a representation of the real thing and as 00 is a bastardised scale then I believe a slightly taller track section becomes irrelevant the main advantage is that the trains stay on the track. I think it is highly likely that at some stage you will need a fiddle yard or a large set of sidings to keep stock in. may be worth considering where you could place such an item in the future if y change your mind. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doughnut Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Would agree with the above. I have code 100 and it looks fine. Code 75, in reality is not tall enough, if you really want to be fussy and are wanting to model flat bottom rail. The nearest in height to the real thing is the code 82 stuff, which I think the Americans use...HO scale and all that. WRT the rail expansion, I solder flexi-track together, for curved areas and to maintain a smooth curve I find it essential. But, just after the curves join the straights, I have normal fishplated joints, with a little gap left between the two rail ends ....say 3 or 4mm. This acts like a breather switch does on the real thing and sorts out any expansion. Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
topsy11 Posted November 30, 2014 Author Share Posted November 30, 2014 Thanks guys. I'm happy with the look of the code 100 track with the concrete sleepers. Obviously it'll look a little better once weathered and ballasted. I'm planning on laying a small section of track to have a play around with weathering and ballasting as I've not done it before and there seems to be a hundred and one different ways of doing both task. I think I'll use code 75 track in the container yard - I'll switch between 100 and 75 in the hidden part. I've pretty much done as you've said Dave, with soldering two pieces of flexi together and using it to create a nice smooth bend rather than how I did it before. I've got the outer line pretty much completed and had my Class 221 running for an hour on Friday afternoon and it ran, lovely - so much quieter at the moment. I'm waiting for a couple of medium radius points to turn up then I'll post some pictures of my progress. I've also ordered a Lenz 100 - although opted to buy it brand new from Germany (hopefully I've made the right decision) LongRail - Really funny you mention a fiddle yard - I've been considering the same thing although can't quite work out how to incorporate it yet. I'm not sure if its best to add a few more lines to yard at the back end or to add some sort of hidden yard. I've already took up as much of the loft as I dare as we still need to have access either side of the loft to store boxes/junk etc and I want to keep the 'open spaces' so we'll have to see. Hopefully the other bits of track will turn up this week and I'll stick the pic's up. Thanks for the continued interest. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted November 30, 2014 Share Posted November 30, 2014 Lots of interesting information looking forward to more and pictures too... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
topsy11 Posted December 3, 2014 Author Share Posted December 3, 2014 As promised a couple of pictures... I've managed to get the DCC ring main fully installed and I've connected up the bus wires to the outer mainline at the moment as I'm still running DC for now. I need to get another tub of copydex to finish laying a bit of cork but most of its glued down. I've received some more medium radius Peco points today which seem to allow to trains to run a little better. The tracks not pinned/glued down yet so isn't perfect but I had the Class 221 running for an hour and it ran lovely. I'm really looking forward to getting fully DCC'ed up so I can get some real hours on the track and hopefully perfect (or near as dammit) the two loops. Any comments/thoughts good or bad are very welcome. I'd rather something be pointed out now so I can change it rather than in 6 months when I've ballasted. 1. The back end. This is where the fiddle yard/sidings will be - but needs to be replanned to make it a little bigger. 2. This is the opposite side of the layout to picture 1. I need another left hand medium point for the cross over. The lines then go round to the station area. I'm undecided whether to keep the point/x over at the far end of the pic as they are or replace them for medium radius points instead - thoughts?? 3. Station area - I've changed this a little from the original plan as I've now got the two main line tracks and then I'll be having two lines that'll have buffers on the end and should accommodate a DMU comfortably. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Action shot!! Oh and this turned up today! Decided to order one brand new from Germany which ended up being cheaper than used ones were going for on eBay. Superb service by both the shop and DPD! Only trouble is I don't have a transformer or DCC chip yet and will probably have to wait until pay day now :-( but at least its here ready to go!! Many thanks for looking. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jintyman Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 Hi there, NIce layout, lots of space for running nice long trains as well. I have the LENZ LH100, and I run it through a TR150, 5 amp transformer. That gives me all the power I want, and although the Lenz 100 is a touch 'dated' (dare I say) it is a superbly reliable piece of kit. I also use an old 'Compact' as a slave, and a 'Multimaus' as a second slave too, looking for a second multimaus now. Jinty ;-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
class"66" Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Coming along well... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doughnut Posted December 4, 2014 Share Posted December 4, 2014 Top piece of kit there....Lenz is a cut above in my opinion. Had my Set 90 (Same as yours with a knob handset rather than push-button) for years now, with the TR 150 5 amp transformer and it works like a dream. And with 5amps, as Jinty says, theres plenty of juice. Depending on budget, of course, but I'd always go for the peco large radius points, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
topsy11 Posted December 4, 2014 Author Share Posted December 4, 2014 Thanks guys. Happy with how its coming along, a lot of the time consuming work is in waiting for the drying of the wood sealer / copydex on the cork and soldering all the dropper wires etc to the DCC main. I'll definitely get the TR150 transformer to save messing around wanting to upgrade in 6 months time. Going to swap the right hand point and x-over. I'll put an order in when I get paid again. I've been having a play with AnyRail to try and design a bit better storage yard. I've managed to add a couple of more tracks and should be able to accommodate around 12 trains on the whole layout which will do for now. Hopefully I'll be running DCC for my next update :-) Cheers Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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